General Care :

wikiHow to Care for Uromastyx Lizards

courtesy to : www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Uromastyx-Lizards

Uromastyx lizards (Also known as Spiny-tailed lizards, dabb lizards, and uros) are reptiles that inhabit a broad range that includes North Africa and India. They are widespread, but are little known among reptile enthusiasts. Here is how to care for these lizards.

Steps :

Uromastyx as a pet

A uromastyx is a great lizard to have as a pet. They are friendly, docile, relatively easy to care for, and are fun and entertaining to watch. Uromastyx are fairly inexpensive reptiles and the initial setup of a habitat will actually exceed the cost of the reptile. Supplying a uromastyx with food is quite easy since you can pick up his food from a grocery store.

The most common uromastyx sold as pets is the uromastyx dispar maliensis, commonly known as the mali uromastyx. They are usually a brown color with yellow highlights on their backs. The males are often much more colorful than females. A male can have very bright yellow coloring as well as a black head and legs. A mali uromastyx can grow to be around 14 to 16 inches in length.

Ornate, ocellated, and other species of uromastyx can also be found as pets. They can vary in size, coloring, and tail style compared to a mali uromastyx. Although different in appearance, they all have similar habitat and dietary requirements. No matter what type of uromastyx you get as a pet, they can be a wonderful and exciting addition to your home.

Egyptian Uromastyx Lizard Pet

Is a Mali Uromastyx the Right Pet Lizard for You ?

courtesy to : rightpet.com/breed-species/reptile/lizards/mali-uromastyx

Other common names: Sudan Mastigure, Mali Dabb Lizard

Scientific name: Uromastyx maliensis

The basics:
Brilliant colors, bulldog-like “beauty”, and a calm disposition place this unique species high on the “must have” lists of serious lizard enthusiasts. Although the hardiest member of its genus, the Mali Uromastyx should only be kept by those able to supply the large enclosure, high temperatures, and specialized diet that it needs.

The Mali Uromastyx is found in northwestern Mali and southwestern Algeria, North Africa, where it resides in sand-gravel deserts and nearby thorn scrub habitats.

Appearance / health:
The 33 – 38 cm (13 – 15 in) body is stout and somewhat flattened in shape. Females are generally tan with gray or black markings, but may also be black and yellow. Males are strikingly colored in jet-black and yellow. Breeders have intensified both color and pattern in some captive lines.

Well-cared-for Mali Uromastyx may exceed 20 years of age. Respiratory diseases can take hold in damp terrariums, and intestinal blockages caused by ingested substrate are sometimes a concern. Strict attention to their nutritional needs is essential.

Behavior / temperament:
Individuals vary, but most accept gentle handling. They will be much easier to work with if kept in a large, properly-provisioned habitat.

Housing:
An adult Mali Uromastyx requires an enclosure at least the size of a 55 gallon aquarium. While a sand/soil substrate has been used with success, finch seed, which can be consumed as well, or terrarium liners, are safer options. Plastic caves, PVC pipes or cinderblocks should be provided as shelters.

Daily exposure to high levels of UVB light is essential. Mali Uromastyx require a basking temperature of 110 - 120 F, but must be able to move into cooler areas (85-95 F) as well. Humidity should be kept low, and the substrate must remain dry. Females and youngsters often co-exist, but males cannot be kept together.

Diet:
Mali Uromastyx require a high fiber diet that includes dandelion, endive, bok choy, romaine, and a variety of other greens. Avoid iceberg lettuce, cabbage, spinach and broccoli. Grassland Tortoise Pellets, split peas, lentils and wild bird seed, along with produce such as peas, squash, carrots and yams, should be added to the salad 1-2 x weekly. Hibiscus, honeysuckle, Rose of Sharon, rose and other flowers, and de-spined prickly pear cactus pads, should be offered when available. Most meals should be powdered with a Calcium supplement; a vitamin/mineral supplement should be provided twice weekly.

Insects should be used only as a rare treat, or perhaps to induce a reluctant feeder or habituate a shy individual to your presence. Well-fed Uromastyx usually obtain sufficient water from their diet, but a shallow bowl can be offered as a safety measure.

Breeding:
Mali Uromastyx may breed if chilled to 60-65 F with a 4 hour basking period of 85 F for 6-8 weeks, at which time the day length should be reduced to 8 hours. A nest box stocked with 4-6 inches of moist sand should be provided. The eggs may be incubated in vermiculite at a ratio of 4 parts vermiculite to 1 part water by weight. At 92-94 F, the eggs will hatch in 55-70 days.

Another Article : Do think Uromastyx make good pets?

The Uromastyx :

courtesy to: www.reptileknowledge.com/articles/article18.php

The uromastyx is also referred to as the spiny-tailed lizards and "uros" for short. In my opinion, they are another type of lizard that can be excellent pets. So if you're considering a type of pet lizard to keep, I strongly recommend researching these interesting lizards.

From a care and keeping standpoint, the uromastyx is similar to the bearded dragon in a certain aspect. Like the bearded dragon, the uro comes from a hot and dry environment -- a bit hotter and drier than the beardie's environment, to be correct.

While the different species of uromastyx come from a widespread geographical range (from North African to India), many of them live in hot and dry environments. In my experience, this type of environment is easier to duplicate in captivity -- at least for people who live in North America. From a maintenance standpoint, it is easier to create a hot and dry environment for your pet lizard than it is to create a moist and tropical environment.

The uromastyx lizard also comes in a wide variety of colors, as you can see from these pictures of uromastyx. There are 16 different species of uromastyx within the genus, so there is plenty of diversity both in terms of geographical range and appearance.

Also like bearded dragons, the uromastyx is an omnivore that will eat both vegetables / plants as well as insects.

The uromastyx is a little lizard with a lot of personality. While it does have some very specific care requirements (such as a basking spot topping 120 degrees), most beginning reptile keepers could successfully care for this type of lizard as a pet. Thus it deserves a place on my list of top three types of pet lizards for beginners.

To learn more about keeping the uromastyx as a pet lizard visit www.DeerFernFarms.com.

- Uromastyx: Natural History, Captive Care, Breeding (Spiny-Tailed Lizards)

by Thomas Wilms (Author)

- Uromastyx: Plus Other Common Agamids (Herpetocultural Library) Paperback – February 1, 2006

by Jerry G. Walls (Author)

- Uromastyx (Complete Herp Care) Paperback – September 1, 2008

by John F., PH.D. Taylor (Author)

- Uromastyx & Butterfly Agamids Paperback – December, 1996

by Jerry G. Walls (Author)

-Spiny-tailed Agamids: Uromastyx and Xenagama (Reptile and Amphibian Keeper's Guides) Paperback – September 1, 2003

by R.D. Bartlett (Author), Patricia Bartlett (Author)

- Basic Care of Uromastyx (General Care and Maintenance of Series)Paperback – October, 1997

by Philippe de Vosjoli (Author)

- Les Fouette-queues: Lézards du genre Uromastyx (French) Paperback

- L'élevage des agames barbus et des uromastyx (French) Hardcover – October 5, 2001

by Jullian Gérard (Author)

- Reptiles Magazine July 2003 Uromastyx, Raising Radiated Tortoises, Louisiana Pinesnake,

Three-Striped Poison Frogs and More Single Issue Magazine – 2003

VERY GOOD Book !

1- Ask yourself some questions: Before getting this lizard, you need to ask yourself some questions. Do I have the time, money and knowledge to fully care for these lizards? Can I make these lizards happy in an artificial environment? Do I know what to do with the lizard on vacation? If you say no to any of these do not go forward with your purchase of a uromastyx. Uromastyx are not by any means easy to take care of. They require dedication and hard work. If you can meet all of these, then read on.

2- Choose your uromastyx: There are a great deal of different uromastyx, but here is just a quick overview of the most popular (It is best that you get a captive bred specimen as wild caught carry parasites, will not eat, and are very unhappy):

-Egyptian Uromastyx: These are the largest uromastyx, as they can get to three feet in length. These large lizards are mostly colorless, with very fine scales. They are notable for their friendly personalities.

-Mali Uromastyx: Malis are one of the most popular uromastyx. They have fairly good temperaments, and have a rather stunning black body and neon yellow back designs which grow brighter as the get warmer. These uros get to about 14–15 inches (35.6–38.1 cm) in length.

-Ornate Uromastyx: The most beautiful of the lizards described here, these are the most expensive. They are also one of the most popular, and they sport a brilliant range of colors. They look very similar to the Ocellated Uromastyx, and their only feature that sets them apart are the enlarged, tooth-like scales (denticulate scales) at the middle of the row to the front of the ear opening.

- Set up your cage: Uromastyx do require a lot of space and have a few special needs that might be hard to meet.

-Caging: Uromastyx range from 12 inches (Ornate Uromastyx) to two or three feet (Egyptian Uromastyx). They need large cages. You could keep one Ornate in a 50 gallon (189.3 L) aquarium with a screen top that resists heat (these are available at most pet stores). For larger species such as the Egyptian, it would be a good idea to build your own cages, as finding a suitable sized cage is very difficult.

-Substrate: The best substrate, arguably, is washed play sand (make sure to wash it very well). This is much cheaper than the "Calci-sand" that is specially made for lizards and is generally advised against due to it being a particularly high impaction risk. The calci-sand can clump up in the uro's system. It does little good at a well-enhanced risk. Uros should still be supplemented calcium depending on their weight to prevent MBD. Note that playsand can cause impaction in lizards under 7" in length (read warnings for further info). For hatchlings and growing lizards it would be best to use newspaper. An alternative is birdseed, though you should not put more than 1" of substrate in, as the lizard will flounder and won't be able to get purchase in the smooth birdseed. Make sure that sunflower seeds are excluded as these are sharp and can injure your lizard internally. Sand best emulates their natural burrowing habitat, and it is best to put 5" of the stuff in the cage.

-Heating and Lighting:You should use a heat lamp, ceramic bulb heater, and a UV light. Make sure that no heat source is able to come in direct contact with the lizard. Burns are not treatable and sometimes fatal. The hot end of the tank should be 120 °F (49 °C) and the cool end should be 80 degrees F (in the winter months this should be lowered a bit, probably around 100-110 degrees or less). Use a light that emits UV-A and UV-B (read the packaging carefully). At the night, all lights should turn off, and the temperature should drop to 65–70 °F (18–21 °C). Undertank heating pads are not the best heating source, as they do not heat the tank properly. Place temperature probes at both ends of the aquarium, or at all four sides if you have a square container.(Read warnings for more info about heating and light sources.)

-Placement of objects: You should place your heating equipment at one end, so that there is a temperature gradient. This way the lizard can chose which temperature zone it wants to be in. You need a "hide" at each end. A hide is a little hutch or covered pit where the lizard can make itself at home. For cool end hides, bricks work well. For warm end hides, patio block make nice two level "condos" so that your lizard can bask on the surface, and then enjoy some shade in the caverns below. You also might want embed rocks in the sand so the lizard can perch on them. Remember to bury rocks all the way as Uromastyx's do like to dig. If they can burrow under the rock they might get stuck underneath; or worse, crushed.

-Humidity: In a great deal of places in the world, humidity rises to unacceptable levels for uromastyx. Systems such as Central Air will dehumidify the air, but if you don't have one of these systems, a simple dehumidifier should do the trick. Remember to place temperature and humidity probes in the tank. Do not place water dishes in the tank, Uromastyx don't need standing water, and it will raise your humidity. The humidity level should be from 10% to 40%.

- Feed your lizard properly.The best part about Uros is that they eat foods that can be picked up from the grocery store. Adult uros will eat a mix of dark leafy greens such as bok-choy, and spring salad mix. Remember to take out the dark stuff in the spring salad. Do not feed Uros Romaine or iceberg lettuce! Lettuce has very little nutritional value. Sprinkle Tortoise dust onto the food to supplement it, and mix in a sprinkling of juvenile iguana pellets. Feed once a day in a small bowl (remember to rinse it out). Hatchlings require a higher dose of protein than adults, so feed them a small amount of crickets every week. If you have a wild caught lizard that doesn't eat, you will need a veterinarian to force feed it (not quite as brutal as it sounds).

- Keep the cage clean. If your lizard uses the restroom, then clean it up by scooping the poo and surrounding up with a meshed scooper or paper towel. Change the sand completely every one to two weeks. Your lizard should not urinate, as it only does this when extremely frightened. This depletes its natural stores of water, and can lead to dehydration.

- Handle properly. The Uro can be held. When you handle your lizard, it's a good idea to wear light gloves. Uromastyx have spiky tails and sharp claws, and they will scamper madly up your arm if scared, leaving scratches. Make sure their feet are always touching a mostly even surface, otherwise they will panic. When you pick them up out of their cage, try to nudge the lizard onto your hand. Grabbing around the middle will scare the lizard and cause it to urinate, depleting its stores of water. Make a "treadmill" with your hands if they start to crawl. They seldom bite, and they do not have teeth so you should not worry too much.

- (NOTE#2...They do have teeth and their bite do hurt. Egyptians even though they are very calm and don't get stressed easily can be very dangerous when you make them mad. Getting whipped by their tail will make you bleed and a bite will most likely end in stitches. These herps lived and thrived in an experiment filled with lions and several other large predators. If you really want to learn as much as you can about Uromastyx go to http://www.deerfernfarms.com/

- I am not trying to insult and or belittle the original author of this just trying to inform and possibly save you a trip to the E.R.

- Regardless there is a lot of useful information in here,

Video :

Tips :

White crystals around the nose are nothing to worry about. They are a sign that the lizard is purging its body of toxic substances. These can be removed with a gentle wipe.
When your uro defecates, you might see a clump of white material come out. Do not panic. This is a clump of indigestible material that your lizard has purged from its body.
Uromastyx will not drop their tails. Even so, you should not hold them by their tails.
If you are bitten (this happens very rarely), wash the injury and stop the bleeding if there is any, if you are nervous or worried you may consult your doctor about a tetanus shot .
Always put a hand over your uro so he/she feels safe.

Warnings :

You must get a UV-A and UV-B lamp. Do not keep this lamp more than 30" away from the lizard, as the UV rays are relatively weak. Read the packaging carefully.
Do not use heat rocks, or heat rock like heaters. They are poorly made, and have a history of burning lizards.
The lights should not be able to touch the lizard. Burns are painful, not treatable, and might cause death.
Some may disagree about having a heating rock... Some say it burns their frog-like belly... Others argue that frogs and lizards are completely different and when your lizard is too hot it will simply move. Burns suffered from a heated rock may be myth. However they only have heat sensors on their back.
Playsand, however nice looking, can cause impaction in lizards under 7" in length. Impaction is caused by a build up of indigestible particles in the gut. This will lead to death.