Vivariums;reptiles;green iguanas care 2

4- Wiki How Guide :

- How to Care for an Iguana

courtesy to : www.wikihow.com/Care-for-an-Iguana

1- Give your iguana a lot of proper light. Iguanas need lots of natural special light so they can absorb U.V.B. and U.V.A light. U.V.A light keeps your iguana feeling good and helps reptiles have a good feeding response. U.V.B. light allows the iguana to digest their food and absorb vitamin D which allows them to absorb the calcium that they need to help prevent metabolic bone disease.The best source of U.V.A light is the sun or basking lights. U.V.B. light should be purchased at pet stores like Pet Smart offer fluorescent bulbs that are designed specifically for U.V.B. output. It is necessary to change out the U.V.B bulb every 6-12 "nine months is usually best" to keep your iguana healthy.

2- Choose your materials. Because iguanas spend most of their time in the branches, the frame and walls can be constructed from a variety of materials.

The frame can be constructed of PVC pipe or wood. Use standard hard woods that come in 2x4s like pine or spruce, but avoid aromatic woods like cedar or redwood which contain oils that can be dangerous for iguanas.[9]
Most people construct their enclosure walls from Plexiglas, plastic mesh (not wire, unless it is covered with plastic, as it can hurt your iguana's toes), or tempered glass so that they can see their iguana, but this is not strictly necessary. You can use solid wood if you choose.
PVC pipe and plastic mesh (or wire mesh covered in plastic) is a good plan for a cage that can be rolled outdoors on warm days. However, Plexiglas or glass will get too hot inside from the greenhouse effect, so plan to keep a Plexiglas or glass enclosure indoors.
Consider building your enclosure on wheels to make moving it easier.

Iguanas are cold blooded reptiles. They are not easy to care for and often die in captivity. They should never be purchased without careful consideration. Iguanas are very expensive to care for, you need to make sure that they have the proper heat and lighting conditions, that they are fed the correct foods, and that their cage offers them enough room to grow to their full 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m). If you are considering buying an iguana, think how it will cost to spend the majority of your money making sure they are properly cared for. They are a long-term investment of your time, effort and resources, so be sure that this is the right pet for you.

Steps :

2- It is very important to provide adequate heat for your iguana. These reptiles are native to warm climates such as Central and South America, and they are not used to lower temperatures. When keeping an iguana as a pet it is important to have a heat lamp to keep the iguana warm. Average temperature needed on a day to day basis is between 80 and 90 degrees. Once you have a heat lamp in place it is important to make sure that you watch your iguana to see how they react to the heat. If they are constantly under the heat lamp it needs to be warmer, if they are never under the heat lamp it needs to be cooler. Nighttime temperature shouldn't drop below 75oF, daytime temperatures should be in the range of 85-95oF, with a hot stop between 97-99oF. Check your temperatures. These temperatures can be attained by use of heat lamps hooked up to a dimmer. Iguanas are cold blooded and cannot regulate their temperature like humans. Therefore when they get to hot or cold they move to where it is cooler or warmer. Do not allow your iguana direct access to the heat lamps as they may burn themselves. Electrically heated terrarium rocks, though aesthetically pleasing are potentially dangerous and should not be used.

3- Prepare your iguana's home. You'll need a nice large house for your iguana. An aquarium that you get from a pet store is not big enough, even for your baby iguana. A good size for an adult iguana cage is 3 feet (0.9 m) deep x 6 feet (1.8 m) wide x 6 feet (1.8 m) high. This will give even an adult iguana some space to move around.

4- Other things to consider include the need for large branches, as iguanas love to climb. As a way to regulate the humidity within the cage consider buying a humidifier to put moisture into the air. The most important thing to remember when buying or making your pet's home is that iguanas grow very fast.

5- Feed your iguana properly. Iguanas are vegetarians and a variety of dark green leafy vegetables will keep your iguana healthy. Recommended greens are -collard greens, mustard greens, alfalfa, dandelion greens, watercress. Iguanas do not eat head or iceberg lettuce as these have virtually no nutrition! Romaine lettuce is acceptable, yet iguanas also need a wide variety of other fruits and vegetables to maintain a healthy diet. These include -yucca root, snap peas, parsnip, papayas, okra, mango, kabocha squash, green beans, butternut squash and acorn squash "avoid citrus fruits though, as reptiles can't handle the acidity". For treats you can give them - dahlia, hibiscus, grapes, raspberries, strawberries, or whole wheat bread pieces "give them bread very sparingly though" and do not be afraid of giving your iguana some "Commercial Iguana Food". It does provide the nutrients they need. However, it is "highly" recommended to give them vegetables and fruits so they have a broad source of vitamins and nutrients they need as well as extra hydration. Iguanas need a constant supply of fresh, clean water to drink from! Be sure to change the water frequently, otherwise you risk having a sick lizard!

6-Multiple Iguanas- Not a good idea if in the same cage. Iguanas are by nature very territorial, in the wild they live on their own and only get together to mate. Having two or more iguanas in the same cage will usually cause them to become aggressive with each other leading to fights and injured iguanas. This can cause disease such as mouth rot. Mouth rot happens if the iguanas get hurt at the mouth and the wound gets infected. Likely you won't notice it for a while but he or she will eventually stop eating due to the infection. Mouth rot can also occur from bacterial, viral, and parasitic origins. Mouth rot can occur from incorrect cage humidity and temps, poor nutrition, or bacterial infection. You can tell right away if your pet has mouth rot by just looking at his mouth. If you see puss in the mouth "usually looks like cottage cheese" or any swelling on the jaws, its most likely a type of mouth rot. There are vast ways an iguana can be in danger of something going wrong but mouth rot can be more common due to improper cage setup. It is treatable, but do not wait until your pet is very weak to get him treated, otherwise it may be too late to save the iguana. Don't wait to treat a problem or your iguana may die. Do as much research as possible, and set thing up right the first time around. An iguana can become a wonderful pet if care is taken seriously, as these lizards can live 20+ years!

Video :

Tips :

Handle your iguana daily, and it will eventually be tame.
OK, reptiles are somewhat fragile. When you handle your iguana, make sure any other pets like a dog won't try to attack it.
Keep the cage clean. This is vital to prevent disease.
It would be a smart idea to have a large environment for your iguana. One side for heat and the other side for a cooler climate this works well when it's a hot day and your pet needs to cool off.
Iguanas are very sensitive to environmental changes, changing your iguanas habitat too often will just stress him/her out.
Don't leave an iguana unattended with any larger animal such as a dog, cats will usually leave iguanas alone
Try giving your iguana a cage less life. You can use a room in your house to set up a basking area (heat and humidity), food, water, (filters are suggested because you don't have to do many water changes or if you have a good one, no water changes are necessary), litter box, and to pamper your iguana (highly recommended), climbing areas and artificial plants (make sure your iguana doesn't try to eat them!).
You can have other animals besides the iguana in the same cage, but do some research to find out if they'll get along.
Iguana's are not big animals, so make sure when you feed them, to do it in small portions.

Warnings :

Any iguana that seems dull or discolored, or hasn't eaten a thing for more than 24 hours should be brought to attention.
It is highly unadvised to house together male iguanas as they are very territorial and can become aggressive. It can also cause stress with the animals and lead to health problems.
Children under the age of 12 should be closely monitored when handling iguanas, especially larger iguanas. A scratch to the face could be very painful, and can leave a scar.
Iguanas need a lot of caring for. It is important that you have all of the necessary tools for caring for an iguana before you purchase one.If you are not willing to care for an iguana in the way that it should be cared for then do not purchase one!

Things You'll Need :

Escape-proof iguana home that is of an adequate size
U.V.A. light
U.V.B. light
Heat Lamp
Climbing structure to allow iguana to climb
Proper Food
Hide box for smaller iguanas
Time and money

- wikiHow to Care for a Green Iguana Hatchling

courtesy to : www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Green-Iguana-Hatchling

Before you even think on getting a Green Iguana as a pet, you need to consider that even if it looks all cute and small, it won't be like that forever. The males can grow up to 4-6' feet (sometimes even more) and females up to 4' feet. They need big spaces to live on, with climbing stops such as trees. And a warm and humid environment. They must be fed once a day every day, preferably in the morning. Feeding in the morning will ensure they have the whole day to digest their food, which they can only do after warming themselves under the sun or a heat lamp.

Steps :

1- Get appropriate housing. It is recommended to have a large aquarium, at least 2'4 feet (1.2 m) long, 1'5 feet (1.5 m) tall and 1'2 feet (0.6 m) width. As they get larger your cage sizes should change accordingly. Your iguana will continue to grow regardless of its cage size. Remember that height is most important but don't get a telephone booth shaped cage. Your iguana should be able to lay flat without being cramped.

2- Provide water. Iguanas are a tropical reptile and therefore require a high humidity in order to shed properly and be over all more healthy. The Habba Automatic Misting Machine is a great mister than you can use from hatchling to adult! Don't forget the water dish!

3- Make sure they have enough places to hide and climb, iguanas on they natural environment like to rest on big tree branch.

4- Remember you will need to provide enough heat in order for them to digest the food. They are cold blooded reptiles and can not properly digest their food. They should always have a basking spot which should be kept in the mid 90's. Heat rocks are NOT acceptable as the heat can not be regulated and may cause burns on the underside of your iguana. Without the proper heat source, your iguana WILL die.

Video :

Tips :

Keep in mind that the amount of food will change, and it will depend on the size of the animal.
Read, read, read!! As credible as wikiHow can be, you need to pick up books and have as much information as possible. Iguanas are not the easiest animal to maintain and not sources will say the same thing. Decide what is best for your new pet.
Before you ever consider getting a pet iguana, make sure you can comply with their needs.
It is always recommended to keep food on the fridge or fresh vegetables to feed them.
They will need food with a lot of calcium on it. Like carrots or vitamin supplements that do not contain B12, as this may be harmful to your iguana.

Warnings :

Green iguanas are vegetarians and should not be given meat. More experienced owners do not give meat to their green iguanas at any stage of their life.
Light through a window is NOT a source of UVB.
Do not feed them spinach as this has been known to cause liver problems.
Your iguana should have a regular yearly vet visit to insure that it is healthy and to spot any problems before they become too serious.
Keep the iguanas away from other animals, such as cats and dogs, barking dogs will scare the iguanas and they will act crazy and hyper.
Make sure all of the food you gave to them, does not contain toxic chemicals like insecticides.
Without the proper amount of calcium, a healthy diet of greens, and proper UVB lamp; your iguana can develop MBD (Metabolic Bone Disorder) which can and will kill your iguana.
If you live on a really cold weather it will be to hard to maintain this species, check the annual temperature in your area.

Main Diet :

Collard Greens
Dandelion Greens
Turnip Greens
Kale
Watercress
Thinly sliced cucumber

Random mixture Addins :

Arugula
Green Beans
Watermelon
Melon
Carrots
Zucchini
Berries
Hibiscus flowers

Meats and insects should NEVER be a part of your iguanas diet as they have been proven to cause aggression. Green iguanas are happier as vegetarians.

Nearly all iguanas require calcium, or they'll have weak jaws. Try to find a calcium powder in a reptile shop.

- How to Build an Iguana Cage

Iguanas are large, cold-blooded reptiles that make great pets, but also require a very specific environment to thrive. When they are young, iguanas can easily fit in a store-bought aquarium, but will outgrow it in less than a year. Pre-made cages for full-sized iguanas are often expensive, so use these steps to build an iguana enclosure at home.

PART ONE : Planning Your Cage

1- Research the iguana lifestyle. The environment an animal needs to thrive as a pet depends on several factors, including:

The size of the adult animal.[1] Most people purchase a baby iguana when it is only a few inches long, but adult iguanas can reach 20 pounds and 5-7 feet from the tip of their tail to their nose. They live to be about 20 years old and reach their full size at about 2-3 years.[2] It is crucial that iguana habitats are built to accommodate this size.
The type of habitat it has in the wild.[3] Because an animal's natural habitat is ideal for its temperament, habits, and adaptive traits, the environment you construct must mimic the natural habitat to the greatest extent possible. Wild green iguanas are naturally found in rain forests throughout Mexico and Central and South America.[4]
Its habits.[5] In the wild, iguanas live in trees and rarely come to the ground. They are good jumpers, and they enjoy swimming.[6] They are diurnal, which means they sleep at night and are active during the day, and because they are cold-blooded they tend to sunbathe in the morning to raise their body temperatures. Knowing these features of iguanas can help you to prepare the optimal environment.

2- Plan where your cage will go. Because iguanas can grow as large as 6 feet from head to tail, an enclosure must be quite large in order for the adult iguana to have room to move around and explore.

In general, this means the cage will need to be about 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long.[7] The height is crucial, since iguanas live in trees and the enclosure must contain perches or branches for it to climb.
Most iguana owners reserve the length of a wall for their iguana's enclosure. The enclosures generally need to be too high and heavy to place them atop furniture.

3- Consider the type of enclosure that is right for you. As long as they are large enough and kept at the right temperature, iguana enclosures can be made from a variety of materials including plastic wire, Plexiglas, or even a large re-purposed china cabinet.

One thing to keep in mind is accessibility. You will need to easily put food and water inside the enclosure, and you need to be able to clean and disinfect the entire habitat (floors, walls, branches, food dishes, etc.) about once a week.[8] Be sure that the enclosure you design is accessible for these purposes.
Keep in mind whether or not the enclosure will be seen by visitors to your home. This can help you make a decision about how fancy or simple it should be, and whether or not you should take the time to design an enclosure that will blend with the decor of your home.

PART TWO : Creating a Blueprint and Purchasing Supplies

1- Create a blueprint for the layout of the cage. Using graphing paper, draw the front, sides, top, and bottom of the cage to scale. It is simplest to create a rectangular design, but a more experienced builder can create any design as long as it is tall and wide enough.

Be sure to include where you will place a door, several branches or perches, a light source at the top on one side (it should keep one side warm and the other side less so, so the animal has a place to go to cool down), and a water source at the bottom.
Consider making one side or wall removable for easy cleaning, as the entire cage will need to be disinfected weekly. Some people build a large, human sized door into the enclosure, so that they can easily step inside to clean it or spend time with their pet.

3- Purchase your supplies. You will need lumber or PVC pipe for the frame, plastic mesh or Plexiglas for the walls, pre-made perches or sealed wood branches, tools for construction, and a heat lamp and water source for the completed enclosure.

Purchase enough lumber or PVC pipe to build a cage according to your blueprint measurements, but at least 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. If you're using PVC, consider buying special fittings like the "3-Way Ell" which is a joint that connects the angles of the structure.[10]
Purchase enough plastic or plastic-covered wire mesh, Plexiglas, or tempered glass for your floors, walls, and ceiling, along with glue or PVC cement to seal it to the frame. If you're using mesh, you can also dry-fit the mesh to the frame using zip ties.[11]
Purchase or make perches. These are available widely at pet stores and online, or they can be simple wood branches that are stripped and sealed. Just be sure that they are made from safe woods such as spruce or fir.
Get a saw or hacksaw, to cut the wood or PVC frame to length. You can also ask the home supply or hardware store if they can cut the wood or PVC for you, as long as you know your correct measurements. You will also need some side-cutters or electrician's pliers to cut the mesh if you're using it, and wood stain (if desired) and a water-based polyurethane sealant if you're building with wood.
Purchase a heat lamp, available at most pet stores. An adult iguana will need a hotspot of at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that includes both UVA and UVB light. You can use a special heat lamp that fits these specifications from the pet store, or build your own fixture using fluorescent tubes. [12] One reliable and simple option is to use two ZooMed 5.0 bulbs, available online, mounted in a high-quality fluorescent fixture, which can be purchased in any hardware store.[13]

PART THREE : Constructing the Cage:

1- Build the frame of your iguana cage. This will be the first step, and then you will affix the walls, floor, and ceiling to a completed frame. It’s a good idea to build this in place in the room you'll keep it in; otherwise a large enclosure may not fit through the doorway.

Cut the wood or PVC pipe to your desired dimensions and affix frames for each side of the cage with glue and butt joints.
Once each side of the cage has been constructed, nail or glue the sides together to create the cube.
Include a door mechanism on the frame for easy access inside. This can be a removable top, a hinged door on one side, or both.

2- Apply a water-based polyurethane wood sealant if your frame is made of wood. This will prevent deterioration. If you plan to stain or paint the frame, be sure to seal after painting.

The sealant will make the wood easier to clean and protect your iguana from fumes.[14]

5- Place a water source inside the cage. In the wild, iguanas are excellent swimmers, and actually stay hydrated in part by soaking in water. [18]

You can use a large bowl or other container filled with water. Iguanas need a water source that is not only for drinking but also big enough to climb inside.

3- Staple the mesh to the sides of the cage, or alternately, affix it securely and tightly using zip ties. Make sure to leave no more than 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) holes in the walls.

If you are using Plexiglas or tempered glass, glue it to the frame instead of stapling it.
Cut and nail additional wood to place over the corners of the frame if using mesh as a side material.

4- Affix the heat lamp inside the iguana cage. It should be at the top and off to one side, so that the iguana has a warmer and cooler region in the enclosure.

The heat source must be located no more than 8" above where the iguana will spend its time basking (generally the top of the enclosure), because iguanas have sensors on their foreheads that regulate how frequently they need to bask.[15]
Affix the heat lamp to the top of the enclosure using zip ties, ensuring that cords extend on the outside of the cage. Be sure that if the fluorescent bulbs are exposed, you cover them with a wire bulb guard to prevent your iguana from touching the bulb and burning its skin.[16]
You should also install a couple of reliable thermometers in various locations in the enclosure to ensure that it is kept at the right temperature, which is crucial to iguana health. Under the basking light should be low to mid 90s (Fahrenheit) and the rest of the enclosure should be no lower than 80 degrees.[17]

6- Install a ramp, shelving, perches, or branches, or add small trees inside the cage. You can attach these using secure zip ties or additional glue.

Iguanas like to climb and bask in heat. They need exercise and the ability to get closer to the heat lamps to digest their food.
Be creative, but ensure that it is accessible to the iguana. Branches and layers in the enclosure should ensure that the iguana can move to a variety of temperature zones by getting closer or farther from the heat source. For safety, the branches should be as wide as the width of your iguana.[19]

7- Put the finishing touches on your enclosure. Before putting the iguana in its new habitat, ensure everything is put together properly for its arrival.

Place newspaper at the bottom of the cage for easy cleanup.
Ensure that there is fresh water in the bowl and plenty of food. Iguanas are strict herbivores and enjoy a varied diet of consisting of mostly vegetables (primarily leafy green vegetables), some fruit, and an occasional treat of cooked rice, pasta, or whole wheat bread.[20] Use a shallow bowl for food (plastic, ceramic, or glass will work fine) and change it daily.

Video :

Tips :

Add wheels to the bottom of the cage to make moving it easier.
If you are considering adopting an iguana, check your local area for reptile rescue programs. Many people buy baby iguanas but realize they cannot accommodate them as adults, and abandon them.
If you cannot accommodate an adult iguana habitat, do not adopt one.
Although you may be tempted to start your baby iguana in a large enclosure, it is generally best to keep a baby iguana in a 20 gallon aquarium until it is about 18 inches long. The smaller size helps them to feel secure in their new home and helps ensure they will find their food and water source.[21]

Warnings :

If you're building the cage outdoors and bringing it inside, make sure the cage can fit through the door.
Do not place just any plant in the cage. Some plants are toxic to iguanas. Perform research on safe flora for placing in the cage.
Do not overheat the iguana cage. Consult a herpetology specialist about the temperature and size of heat lamps.
Do not use a heat rock. Iguanas do not feel the heat from the bottom and will cook themselves and not know it. They gauge heat from the top.