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One of the most identifiable features of this lizard, though, is the presence of a pair of thin dorsolateral stripes, extending down either side of the back like railways lines.

 Plated Lizards  -Family  Gerrhosauridae

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

The Gerrhosauridae are a family of lizards native to Africa and Madagascar.[1]

 

 

Gerrhosauridae

Gerrhosaurus major

Scientific classification

Kingdom:Animalia

Phylum:Chordata

Class:Reptilia

Order:Squamata

Infraorder:Scincomorpha

Superfamily:Scincoidea

Family:Gerrhosauridae
Fitzinger, 1843

Habitat :

 

Also known as plated lizards, species in the family Gerrhosauridae live in a range of habitats, from rocky crevices to sand dunes.[1]

 

Description :

 

Their form is variable, some species having four fully developed limbs, and others having vestigial hind limbs only.[1]

 

Reproduction :

 

Most species are believed to be oviparous.[1]

Classification :

 

Family Gerrhosauridae

 

  • Subfamily Gerrhosaurinae

    • Genus Angolosaurus - sand plated lizard (1 species)

    • Genus Cordylosaurus - blue-black plated lizard (1 species)

    • Genus Gerrhosaurus - (6 species)

    • Genus Tetradactylus - (6 species)

  • Subfamily Zonosaurinae

    • Genus Tracheloptychus - keeled plated lizards (2 species)

    • Genus Zonosaurus - zonosaurs (18 species)

For the external links , refrences  click here to read the full wikipedia article 

Video :

Great Plated Lizard at Stare Poznan Zoo

Care articles :

1- Sudan Plated Lizard Care Sheet :

 

courtesy to :  www.backwaterreptiles.com/reptile-care-sheets/sudan-plated-lizard-care-sheet.html

Below is a Sudan Plated lizard care sheet based upon my experiences with this extraordinarily unique-looking lizard.

 

Sudan Plated Lizard
Gerrhosaurus major

 

Sudan plated lizards (Gerrhosaurus major) are fairly common within the reptile market, despite widespread confusion regarding their captive requirements. When kept properly, they can become rewarding reptiles that allow gentle handling. 

 

Range: The Sudan, as the lizard’s name suggests, including adjacent African countries with savannah areas. Their range is actually more extensive than their common name suggests.

 

Physical Description: Their dorsal surface is covered with distinctly “plated” scales, while their underside is very smooth in comparison. The Sudan plated lizard has a base coloration comprised of varying degrees of brown, while their bellies and throats are a creamy white. These lizards have very stout necks, and unusually thick tails (a tail-whip would be painful). There is a lateral fold running the length of the lizard, which allows for temporary expansion.

 

Size: Sudan plated lizards generally attain a total length of approximately 18 to 25 inches (with even larger ones having been reported) so, coupled with heavy bodies, they are definitely not small reptiles. Unlike many other lizards, the Sudan plated lizard’s tail is not much longer than its snout-to-vent length. Hatchlings are approximately six inches in total length.

 

Behavior: Long considered one of the most tractable lizards, even as wild-caught adults, Sudan plated lizards rarely bite. In fact, I’ve never even heard of it happening. Somewhat shy by nature, they usually run and hide (in a blur) when startled or irritated. I’ve never witnessed anything resembling a threat display. Build trust with them through food offerings, and do not force handle them (this goes for all reptiles). Done correctly they can, and often do, become surprisingly tame. Read my lizard taming article for more information.

 

These lizards are diurnal, meaning they are active during the daylight hours. They can be seen foraging, basking, and even digging if given a deeper substrate that can hold a burrow.

 

Enclosure: These are larger lizards, so it is more challenging to give them an appropriate amount of space in which to move around. Ideally, give them the most space you can provide. The cage size should be around 48” in length, and perhaps 30” in width. As far as cage height, please keep in mind that burrowing is a big part of these lizards’ existence. Providing a deep substrate will allow them to dig burrows, which in turn will provide them with more security (this is key if you’re trying to tame a lizard). 

 

Substrate-wise, use something that will hold a burrow as well as some moisture, such as a sand (not silica or manufactured types) and coco fiber mix at a ratio of 3:1, or even good ol’ dirt, at a depth of at least six inches, preferably even deeper. 

 

Heating & Humidity: The cage should be situated in such a way that will allow the lizard to choose what temperature and humidity it prefers, and a deep substrate will go a long way in helping provide these options. The basking spot should have a surface temperature in the 125F-140F range (use a temp gun to calibrate). I recommend using a 45w halogen flood light bulb (not a spot light). You can move the bulb higher or lower to adjust the surface temperatures.

 

The Sudan (the largest country in Africa) is essentially split into two sections: the north (windy, dry, and hot), and the south (more rainfall, and hot). The Sudan plated lizard is more prolific in the southern region, so frequent mistings, using a substrate that holds moisture, and a heavy water bowl should provide adequate humidity levels. If in doubt, use a hygrometer to verify that the humidity is being maintained between 50% and 70%. Make sure you don’t use a screen top, as it will allow the rapid escape of humidity and heat. Contrary to what many reptile hobbyists believe, if your lizard is soaking in the water dish, it is in fact dehydrated.

 

Lighting: Halogen basking bulbs, complimented by a quality UV bulb, are recommended for Sudan Plated lizards. Reptile UV lighting is still new, and more research needs to be done not only to gauge its usefulness, but also to improve existing technology.

 

Feeding: Sudan plated lizards are primarily insectivorous in the wild, but will also ingest some fruits and flowers, so in that sense they are technically omnivores. 

 

This Sudan Plated lizard care sheet just would not be complete without mentioning my personal experiences. The first Sudan plated lizard I ever kept was given to me as a present one very memorable Christmas back in the late 1980’s. The folks at the pet store told my mom that I should feed it dog food soaked in water (to soften it). Yes, the reptile hobby has come a long way. Side note: it was the most docile lizard I have ever had the pleasure of owning. My dad and I built a large wooden cage with a glass front panel, and we installed a heat lamp that probably produced a hot spot far too hot for the lizard. Live and learn.

 

The perfect food for this lizard, if you were to ask me, is a roach such as Blaptica dubia (easy to breed, and they get to a meaty size). Large crickets and superworms will be devoured as well. Steer away from dog food [sarcasm intended]. I would feed mine select fruits and vegetables on occasion, but I don’t believe they require it. Some of them relish pinkie mice, but small adult mice are a bit tougher for some of them to swallow. 

 

Some say they eat small lizards, but I’ve never tried this and don’t recommend it. I do recommend dusting foods with a powdered supplement such as Rep-Cal with a vitamin D3 additive.
 

Breeding: Captive bred Sudan plated lizards are extremely rare, as very few reptile hobbyists are attempting to breed them. The two primary reasons for this are that their resale value is low, and the clutch sizes are small (2 to 6 eggs).

 

Price Range: $25 to $40 for wild caught specimens, which comprises essentially all available lizards. You can buy a Sudan Plated lizard for sale on our main website.

 

Species Notes: Unlike monitor lizards, their tails can be dropped and regenerated, so be careful. Their teeth are blunt. Also referred to as the Tawny plated lizard.

 

Summary: Despite initial shyness, Sudan plated lizards will often settle down to become interactive reptiles that rarely display signs of aggression. Their distinctive appearance is always a crowd-pleaser, and their varied diet allows for a variety of food items. Due to their size, they require a spacious cage and preferably deep substrate. Captive breeding is extraordinarily rare and should be encouraged.
 

2- Care for the Challenging Giant Plated Lizard:

 

courtesy to :  www.reptilesmagazine.com/Lizards/Care-for-the-Challenging-Giant-Plated-Lizard/

BY PAUL DONOVAN

 

 

I am sure that most of us, if we dust the cobwebs from our memories, can remember the first snake or lizard we bought that sparked our interest in reptile keeping. Although it only seems like yesterday, I have to go back some 30-plus years to remember mine. I purchased a pair of giant plated lizards (Gerrhosaurus validus), which I acquired for a relatively large sum of money (at the time), from a local pet shop. Even though I worked in zoological collections for the following 20 years, it was not until I spent six month in South Africa that I had the chance to reacquaint myself with this lizard once again. 

The individual illustrated here was captured in the northern part of South Africa a few kilometers from the border to Botswana.

Walking through the bush one incredibly hot afternoon, I heard a rustling sound near a pile of rocks. Now, being someone who has to investigate such noises (the last time I did that I caught a 4-foot-banded snouted cobra!), I eventually spooked this large black lizard out of hiding, only to watch it dart beneath another huge boulder. After much grunting and groaning, and almost dropping the boulder on my leg as the lizard shot out, I did eventually manage to catch it. 

 

Unfortunately, as I grabbed it, it shed its tail, but nonetheless, it was a fine male specimen of good size. And, just as I remember with the pair I’d kept all those years ago, it wriggled like a magician trying to escape from a straightjacket, and proceeded to spray me with the foul contents of its cloaca. Nice to make your acquaintance again!

 

All in the Family 

 

The family Gerrhosauridae encompasses six known genera. Four of these occur in sub-Saharan Africa and make up the subfamily Gerrhosaurinae: Angolosaurus skoogi, Cordylosaurus subtessellatus, Gerrhosaurus (of which there are six species: Gerrhosaurus flavigularis, G. major, G. multilineatus, G. nigrolineatus, G. typicus and G. validus) and Tetradactylus (of which there are six species: Tetradactylus africanus, T. breyeri, T. eastwoodi, T. ellenbergeri, T. seps and T. tetradactylus). Two further genera, Tracheloptychus and Zonosaurus, are restricted solely to Madagascar, and they make up the subfamily Zonosaurinae. They include:  Tracheloptychus madagascariensis, T. petersi, Zonosaurus aeneus, Z. anelanelang, Z. bemaraha, Z. boettgeri, Z. brygooi, Z. flavescens, Z. haraldmeieri, Z. karsteni,  Z. laticaudatus, Z. madagascariensis, Z. maramaintso, Z. maximus, Z. ornatus, Z. quadrilineatus,  Z. rufipes, Z. subunicolor, Z. Trilineatus and Z. tsingy.

Trace their ancestry back, and it appears that the family almost certainly evolved as one before Madagascar split from the African continent during the Cretaceous period, 145 to 65 million years ago. This is how the two Madagascan genera then evolved independently.

 

Because of their similarity in appearance, Gerrhosauridae was initially classified as a subfamily of Cordylidae, but a taxonomic review elevated it to full species status. 

 

Of Gerrhosaurus validus, two subspecies are recognized. The first is the nominate race G. v. validus (the species illustrating this article). This species can be distinguished by the presence of 14 to 16 ventral scale rows, and 18 to 24 lamellae on the fourth toe. The dorsal scales number 28 to 44 longitudinal rows, with 52 to 55 transverse rows. The femoral pores number 18 to 25 in both sexes. The subocular scale (a scale beneath the eye) does not make contact with the lip. Its range is quite broad, extending from Maputaland through to Zambia. 

 

The second subspecies is G. v. maltzahni. It differs in having 12 to 14 ventral scale rows, 15 to 17 lamellae on the fourth toe and the subocular scale borders the lip. Its range extends from central Namibia, pushing just into southern Angola. Both races have pronounced femoral glands and conspicuous pores.

 

As lizards go, G. validus is quite an easy species to identify, as it has a rather distinctive coloration and is of a good size. Snout to vent length is 93⁄4 to 113⁄4 inches, with the tail being almost as long. Females are slightly smaller than males, not only in length but also body girth, and they are not quite as stocky. 

 

Adults are dark brown to sooty black, with the dorsal scales having small yellow spots, which give the body a speckled appearance. The dorsal scales have a rectangular shape to them and slightly overlap one another like the tiles of a roof. These scales have underlying osteodermal plates that afford the lizard tough armor plating. One of the most identifiable features of this lizard, though, is the presence of a pair of thin dorsolateral stripes extending down either side of the back like railways lines. The throat is a dirty, creamy-white color. 

 

Juveniles are similarly colored to adults, being black with the exception of having much more yellow in the form of characteristic yellow spots on the back and bars on the flanks. These gradually fade as the lizards mature, and they can be completely absent within about a year. 

 

The tail, which may be almost as long as the body, is covered in a carpet of narrow, pointed scales. These are rear facing, and as they are slightly raised, they overlap one another and give the tail the appearance of a spiky branch. The tail not only serves as a defense when the lizard jams itself into a crevice, but can be swung from side to side to deliver painful blows. Unlike many lizards, I have noticed that plated lizards do not seem as willing to shed their tails quite as quickly as other species do. (OK, the individual I captured did, but others I have come across seemed reluctant to do so.) This may be because they have great faith in their tough armor coating to afford protection. 

 

Both the body and tail have a generalized flattened profile, giving the lizard the appearance of having been run over. This shape is utilized to great advantage as a defensive measure. Extremely shy by nature, the lizard skitters into the nearest crevice when threatened and inflates its body by sucking in air, thus jamming itself in tight. As the tail is the last part of the body to disappear into the crevice, it is the first part of the body the pursuer is confronted with. And as it is covered in spiky scales, it presents a formidable barrier. Only when the lizard is confident that the threat has passed does it venture back out. One of the reasons why this lizard appears to be so shy is that its size makes it a hearty meal for a hungry bird of prey. 

 

Terrestrial Habitat :

 

Gerrhosaurus validus is a terrestrial lizard that seldom ventures far from a pile of rocks or clump of thorny bushes. It is a warmth-loving species and tends to occur in the warmer regions of southern Africa. The individual illustrated here was captured in the northern part of South Africa, a few kilometers from the border to Botswana. Typical habitat is arid veld or dry savannah and grasslands with rocky escarpments. This is one of the reasons why giant plated lizards are so difficult to photograph, let alone catch. As soon as they suspect danger is afoot, they are gone. During my stay in South Africa at the time, I never managed, no matter how careful and quiet I was, to photograph one basking.  

Diet :

 

Dietary requirements for this lizard are quite varied. The staple diet consists of all manner of invertebrates, from crickets and locusts to mantids and beetles. They will also take vegetable matter, such as shoots, fallen fruit and flower heads. Given the chance, and if they can catch them, they will also eat small lizards. Although few references make mention of it, newborn rodents will also be taken. 

 

When keeping these lizards in captivity, much of their diet is easily met. I gave mine a small dish of mixed fruit and vegetables three to four times a week. I used to add four or five pinkies to this, but noticed the lizards quickly developed signs of obesity, so I reduced these to two a week. About 20 odd years ago, there was very little in the way of invertebrates to feed to captive lizards, but I used to catch cockroaches, grasshoppers and other native insects to add some variety to their staple diet of mealworms. 

 

Heat Lovers :

 

If you are lucky enough to manage to get your hands on one of these lizards, the first thing you will notice is that they are true warmth-loving reptiles. The individual I captured was caught during the hottest part of the day, when a ground temperature reading I took showed it to be 104 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, the ground was so hot that every time I put my hands on it, it felt like I was touching the hotplate of an oven. I can remember the pair I had all those years ago would spend almost all their time basking beneath a heat lamp. I have also experienced this with other members of the genus, notably G. nigrolineatus. For this reason, I would provide a cool end temperature of 77 to 80 degrees, with a heat lamp suspended at the other end where the lizard has access to a much higher basking temperature of about 95 degrees. Even where the ambient temperature is raised, giant plated lizards will still bask. 

 

As these are active lizards, they should be given a good amount of space to move around. An enclosure that measures 5 feet long, 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall would suit one well.  

 

The floor should be covered with sand or Repti-Bark, and it should include some form of hiding area. Remember, these lizards like to squeeze into tight spaces, so a pile of rocks with suitably sized crevices will afford them good cover. Do make sure, however, that the rocks are secure and cannot be dislodged. Alternatively, you can always use one of the preformed caves available on the market. Don’t forget, the cage will also require full-spectrum UVB lighting. During the summer months, provide 12 hours on and 12 hours off. This can be reduced to a ratio of 10 hours of light and 14 hours of darkness during the winter. 

 

Although water should always be made available in the form of a shallow water bowl, they rarely seem to drink from one, getting much of their liquid requirements from the fruit, vegetables and insects upon which they feed. These lizards come from quite dry areas where water is often scarce. That being said, I have seen them lap droplets of water from plants, so I presume they may obtain this in the form of early morning dew. For this reason, it may be worth giving the enclosure a light spraying once a day. Misting and a shallow water bowl should maintain the humidity in the 50- to 55-percent region, which is ideal. 

 

Plated Lizard Breeding :

 

During the breeding season, males develop a pinkish-red tinge to the throat and sides of the head. Although generally quite sociable up until now, males will squabble amongst themselves and defend a territory. Females are pursued with relentless passion until they are cornered. Following a successful mating, come mid-summer, the female searches out a crevice laden with soil and lays four (sometimes as few as two) large, creamy-white, oval-shaped eggs, each measuring 1 by 13⁄4 inches.

 

With captive breeding, the eggs should be removed and incubated in damp vermiculite at a temperature of 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Some 70 to 80 days later, the 53⁄4- to 61⁄2-inch hatchlings emerge. Newborns differ slightly in coloration from the adults, showing a black base color adorned with distinctive yellow spots on the back and bars on the flanks. Juveniles may remain in the protective shelter of the nest site for several days before dispersing. Care of the juveniles follows that of the adults. 

 

Worth the Effort 

 

As captive lizards go, G. validus can be quite an easy pet to cater to, placing few challenges on the reptile keepers’ plate. It is a good-sized lizard that will usually become accustomed to captive conditions quickly. This means yours should eventually sit out and bask and not skitter away at the first sight of a human peering through the enclosure at it. And, if you are so inclined, pet giant plated lizards will often allow themselves to be regularly handled. Mine became tame enough to accept food from my fingers. This is a lizard species that I would thoroughly recommend if you happen to come across one. I certainly have fond memories of mine. 

 

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Paul Donovan is a biologist who has worked with reptiles and insects for the past 30 years. After working in several zoological collections in the UK, he now resides in Botswana, where he has been for the past six years. Apart from lecturing widely to various government organizations, private companies and schools on snakes and snakebites, he also runs a motorbike tour company and organizes reptile holidays in Botswana. Paul can be contacted at paul.motorcycleadventures@gmail.com.

 

 

Gallery :

 

 

 

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