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5-East African egg eater

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Description:

 

The species of this genus exhibit a wide variation in patterning and color, from mixtures of browns and greens, to solid black. Individuals in a specific locality tend to share similar color and pattern. They vary in size greatly, from 30–100 cm (12–39.5 in) in length.

 

Dasypeltis is a genus of colubrid snakes. It is one of only two taxonomic groups of snakes known to have adapted to feed exclusively oneggs (the other being the genus Elachistodon). They are non-venomous and found throughout the continent of Africa, primarily in forested or wooded habitats that are also home to numerous species of birds.

Dasypeltis

Montane egg-eating snake
(Dasypeltis atra)

Scientific classification

Kingdom:Animalia

Phylum:Chordata

Subphylum:Vertebrata

Class:Reptilia

Order:Squamata

Suborder:Serpentes

Family:Colubridae

Subfamily:Colubrinae

Genus:Dasypeltis
A. Smith, 1842

Species :

12 recognized species, 

Species:

 

Dasypeltis has 12 recognized species:[1]

 

  • Dasypeltis abyssina (A.M.C. Duméril, Bibron & A.H.A. Duméril, 1854)

  • Dasypeltis atra Sternfeld, 1912 - montane egg-eating snake

  • Dasypeltis confusa J. Trape & Mané, 2006

  • Dasypeltis fasciata A. Smith, 1849 - Central African egg eating snake

  • Dasypeltis gansi J. Trape & Mané, 2006

  • Dasypeltis inornata A. Smith, 1849 - southern brown egg-eating snake

  • Dasypeltis latericia J. Trape & Mané, 2006

  • Dasypeltis medici (Bianconi, 1859) - East African egg-eating snake

    • Dasypeltis medici lamuensis Gans, 1957

    • Dasypeltis medici medici (Bianconi, 1859)

  • Dasypeltis palmarum (Leach, 1818)

  • Dasypeltis parascabra S. Trape, Mediannikov & J. Trape, 2012

  • Dasypeltis sahelensis J. Trape & Mané, 2006

  • Dasypeltis scabra (Linnaeus, 1758) - common or rhombic egg-eating snake

    • Dasypeltis scabra loveridgei Mertens, 1954

    • Dasypeltis scabra scabra (Linnaeus, 1758)

Behavior :

 

Dasypeltis species tend to have a nervous disposition, and when threatened will perform what is called saw-scaling, where it will rub its scales together quickly to make a rasping noise that sounds vaguely like hissing. They are agile climbers, and have a keen sense of smell to tell whether an egg is rotten or too far developed to be comfortable to eat. They have extremely flexible jaws and necks for eating eggs much larger than their head, and have no teeth, but they do have bony protrusions on the inside edge of their spine which are used to aid in breaking the shells of eggs.

 

The process of consuming an egg involves wrapping their mouth around it and drawing it into the throat and then flexing their muscles pushing the egg into the bony protrusions on their spine, which causes the egg to collapse in on itself. Then the snake carefully squeezes every last bit of liquid out of the inside of the egg, ending with regurgitation of the completely crushed egg shell. They are remarkably efficient, and waste very little of the contents of an egg.

Eating:

 

A sequence of a Montane Egg-eating Snake, Dasypeltis atra consuming a quail egg.

 

 

Defensive behavior :

 

When threatened, the neck is flattened and the head is raised off the ground, not unlike a cobra. They also hiss and will strike, but they do not attempt to bite. The result can be likened to a high speed head-butt. If this threat display does not work to deter a would-be predator, a hognose snakes will often roll onto its back and play dead, going so far as to emit a foul musk from its cloaca and let its tongue hang out of its mouth.[7][16][17]

In captivity :

 

Dasypeltis species are readily available in the exotic pet trade, but due to their unique dietary needs they can be a challenge to keep in captivity. Most egg-eating snakes never get large enough to consume typical chicken eggs, so smaller ones must be provided, such as finch eggs or quail eggs. Once a reliable source(s) of food is obtained, Dasypeltismake easy and hardy vivarium species. Captive breeding is virtually unknown, so almost all specimens available are wild caught.

 

Many owners have resorted to force feeding their Dasypeltis because the animal seems not to be eating. However, evidence has shown that, like large constrictors, these snakes may go for very long periods (months) without eating after a large meal. As long as the snake is behaving normally and does not appear to be in physical distress, force feeding is not advised. When a specimen seems to be "off" its food, offering it eggs approximately monthly is appropriate. If the snake does not eat but continues to drink, is active, and sheds, then it does not need to be force fed.

For the external links , refrences  click here to read the full wikipedia article 

African Egg Eating Snake Defensive Behavior

African Egg-Eating Snake Eating an Egg

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Heterodon platirhinos, commonly known as the eastern hog-nosed snake,[2] spreading adder,[3] or deaf adder, is a harmless colubrid species endemic to North America.[4] No subspecies are currently recognized.[2]

Egg-eating Snakes – Natural History and Care in Captivity

 

courtesy :  blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2010/10/06/egg-eating-snakes-natural-history-and-care-in-captivity 

The following article is writen by That Reptile Blog Guest Blogger Joseph See and contains information that may be of interest to our readers.

 

Hello all, I am Joseph See. As a college student working towards a degree in biology, I thought I would write about a very underrated group of snakes, which also happen to be the first snakes I kept and bred. When I was younger I kept all the manner of creatures around the house, except snakes, which my parents disliked. But upon moving out in college I decided to try my hand at one species that I read much about and always fascinated me.

 

Egg-eating Snakes (Dasypeltis) are fascinating, highly specialized colubrids that are featured in almost any book on snakes, due to their bizarre feeding habits. Egg-eating Snakes feed solely on bird eggs, and can swallow eggs several times the size of their heads. They are also undemanding and easy to keep, as long as you start with established specimens.

 

Natural History :

 

The 5 species of the genus Dasypeltis live in Africa, usually in forested areas. Baby egg-eaters presumably feed on the eggs of small finches and weaverbirds before taking progressively larger fare like chicken eggs! Without functional teeth, egg-eaters are defenseless and thus have evolved colors and behavior to mimic the venomous vipers found alongside them. By rasping their scales together they can produce a hissing noise in the same way as some vipers, and they will frequently flatten their necks or heads to more resemble a venomous snake.

 

Egg-eaters in Captivity :

 

Egg-eaters are not often kept, but wild caught imports are occasionally available. The Rhombic Egg-eater (Dasypeltis scabra) and the East African Egg-eater(Dasypeltis medici medici) are the most frequently imported. Their care is similar to other small colubrids (such as African house snakes).

 

Feeding :

 

The main difficulty keepers of these snakes encounter is acquiring eggs to feed them. Most egg-eaters are too small to take regularly available chicken eggs. Depending on the size of your snake you may feed eggs from pigeons, Coturnix quail, doves, Button quail, or finch. Generally speaking, Coturnix quail eggs (the quail egg eaten as a delicacy) are the easiest to obtain, whether it be from ethnic food markets, feed stores, or local bird breeders. These eggs are cheap to obtain and suit most large egg-eaters. Button quail (Coturnix chinensis) eggs are smaller and also easily obtained for smaller specimens. Other eggs can be obtained from local petstores, bird breeders, etc. (often for free). A final note: while small egg-eaters cannot eat overly large eggs, large egg-eaters have no qualms on taking small ones. Eggs should be stored in the refrigerator until they are used (and should keep for a month or so).

 

Feeding problems :

 

Probably the most common problem reported in keeping egg-eaters is simply that they refuse to eat. This is especially the case for freshly wild-caught imports. Of course, you should make sure the snake is well hydrated and in a comfortable environment. Here are a few tips for getting stubborn egg-eaters to eat.

 

Make sure the eggs you are offering are the appropriate size and fresh. Scenting the eggs (by refrigerating them, freezing and thawing them, rubbing on a birds breast or placing in a bird’s nest etc.), may help. Some prick the shell with a pin and smear some of the contents on the egg. Egg-eaters can go for many months without food, so be patient. However, if a snake is losing weight, tube feeding several milliliters (the approximate amount in an egg the snake would otherwise eat) of whipped egg with a syringe and catheter tubing may be required. I would highly recommend consulting an experienced keeper or veterinarian to demonstrate the procedure before trying, if done incorrectly one could force fluid into the lungs, which is usually fatal. Egg-eaters have actually been raised almost solely by this method, since it is hard to find enough finch eggs for a whole clutch of babies, being fed once every two weeks or so.

 

6-Eastern hognose snake

 

 

Eastern hognose snake

eastern hog-nosed snake
(southern Georgia morph)

Conservation status

Scientific classification:

Kingdom:Animalia

Phylum:Chordata

Subphylum:Vertebrata

Class:Reptilia

Order:Squamata

Suborder:Serpentes

Family:Colubridae

Subfamily:Xenodontinae

Genus:Heterodon

Species:H. platirhinos

Binomial name:

Heterodon platirhinos
Latreille in Sonnini & Latreille, 1801

Synonyms:

  • Heterodon platirhinosLatreille in Sonnini & Latreille, 1801

  • Coluber heterodon Daudin, 1803

  • Heterodon niger Holbrook, 1842

  • Heterodon platyrhinos [sic]Baird & Girard, 1853

  • Heterodon platyrhinus [sic]A.M.C. Duméril, Bibron & A.H.A. Duméril, 1854

  • Heterodon niger– A.M.C. Duméril & Bibron, 1854

  • Heterodon browniStejneger, 1903

  • Heterodon contortrix– M.J. Allen, 1932

  • Heterodon contortrix – Burt, 1935

  • Heterodon contortrix– Grant, 1937

  • Heterodon contortrix browni– Carr, 1940

  • Heterodon platirhinos– Conant & Collins, 1991

  • Heterodon platirhinos– Crother, 2000

  • Heterodon platyrhinos– Purser, 2003[1]

Geographic range :

 

Heterodon platirhinos is found from eastern-central Minnesota, and Wisconsin to southern Ontario,Canada and extreme southern New Hampshire, south to southern Florida and west to eastern Texasand western Kansas.[5]

 

Description  :

 

The average adult measures 71 cm (28 in) in total length (body + tail), with females being larger than males. The maximum recorded total length is 116 cm (46 in).[6]

 

The most distinguishing feature is the upturned snout, used for digging in sandy soils.

 

The color pattern is extremely variable. It can be red, green, orange, brown, gray to black, or any combination thereof depending on locality. They can be blotched, checkered, or patternless. The belly tends to be a solid gray, yellow, or cream-colored. In this species the underside of the tail is lighter than the belly.[7]

North Carolina specimen

Florida specimen

Venom :

 

Although H. platyrhinos is rear-fanged, it is often considerednonvenomous because it is not harmful to humans. Heterodonmeans "different tooth", which refers to the enlarged teeth at the rear of the upper jaw. These teeth inject a mild amphibian-specific venom into prey, and also are used to "pop" inflated toads like a balloon to enable swallowing. Bitten humans who are allergic to the saliva have been known to experience local swelling, but no human deaths have been documented.

Common names :

 

Eastern hog-nosed snake,[2] spreading adder, hog-nosed snake, adder, bastard rattlesnake, black adder, black blowing viper, black hog-nosed snake, black viper snake, blauser, blower, blowing adder, blowing snake, blow(ing) viper, blow snake, buckwheat-nose snake, calico snake, checkered adder, checquered adder, chunk head, common hog-nosed snake, common spreading adder, deaf adder, eastern hognose snake, flat-head, flat-head(ed) adder, hay-nose snake, hissing adder, hissing snake, hog-nosed adder, hog-nosed rattler, hog-nose snake, hog-nosed viper, hissing viper, (mountain) moccasin, North American adder, North American hog-nosed snake, pilot, poison viper, puff(ing) adder, red snake, rock adder, rossel bastard, sand adder, sand viper, spotted (spreading) adder, spread nelly, spread-head moccasin, spread-head snake, spread-head viper, flat-head adder (spreading) viper.[3]

Conservation status :

 

This species is classified as Least Concern (LC) on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species (Year assessed: 2007).[8] However, it is a species of increasing conservation concern, especially in the northeastern part of its range.[9][10][11][12] Of the five states in the northeast U.S. where the eastern hognose snake occurs, it currently has “listed” conservation status in four (Connecticut, New Hampshire, New York, and Rhode Island).[13] Noted declines are believed to be the result of direct anthropogenic pressures including habitat loss and fragmentation, road mortality, environmental degradation, and intentional killing.[14][15]

H. platirhinos eating atoad.

Closeup of the head of H. platirhinos

Cape Cod, Massachusetts specimen.

Feeding :

 

The Eastern hognose snake feeds extensively on amphibians, and has a particular fondness for toads. This snake has resistance to the toxins toads secrete. This immunity is thought to come from enlargedadrenal glands which secrete large amounts of hormones to counteract the toads' powerful skinpoisons. At the rear of each upper jaw, they have greatly enlarged teeth, which are neither hollow nor grooved, with which they puncture and deflate toads to be able to swallow them whole.[6][16][18] They will also consume other amphibians, likefrogs and salamanders.

 

Captivity :

 

Eastern hognose snakes are occasionally available in the exotic pet trade, but due to their specific dietary requirements, they are not as readily available as other species. Generally, they refuse feeder rodents unless they are scented with amphibians. In Canada, Eastern hognose snakes are considered to be a species-at-risk (COSEWIC designation: Threatened), and consequently capture or harassment of these animals, including their captive trade, is illegal.

 

These snakes live for approximately 12 years. They shed their skin periodically to grow and develop.

 

Reproduction :

 

Eastern hognose snakes mate in April and May. The females, which lay 8 - 40 eggs (average about 25) in June or early July, do not take care of the eggs or young. The eggs, which measure about 33 mm × 23 mm (1 1⁄4 in × 1 in), hatch after about 60 days, from late July to September. The hatchlings are 16.5–21 cm (6.5–8.3 in) long.[17]

 

 

Overview

 

The False Water Cobra, is rear-fanged, with the venom potency unknown. It is often referred to by hobbyists by the acronym of FWC and vernacular of Brazilian smooth snake, is a large, attractive, but nervous colubrine. Defensive FWCs spread a narrow hood, thus the origin of the common name. Despite the fact that very little is known with certainty about the venom of the FWC it has been demonstrated that a good solid bite from this rear-fanged snake can cause some necrosis as well as considerable edema, tenderness and pain. Although these snakes are not usually prone to bite, they should still be handled with caution and respect.

 

This is an active, alert and shy snake. It should be provided with a large terrarium containing a hide-box and assorted visual barriers (such as cork bark or sterilized drift wood). One or two babies may be temporarily housed in a 20 gallon capacity terrarium. A pair of adults should be housed in a 50 to 125 gallon capacity terrarium. In a small terrarium this snake is more apt to abrade its nose than if it is in a large tank. They climb little if at all. Cypress, fir, aspen chips or bark shards are excellent choices for a substrate. A temperature of 78 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 85 degrees during the day is ideal for these snakes. Although they may not bask, a hot spot of 90 to 95 degrees is provided for several hours a day. A large receptacle (kept scrupulously clean) should always be provided. The snakes will drink and soak in the water receptacle. FWCs are most apt to soak when they are preparing for ecdysis or on very warm days.

 

Seldom are wild-caught individuals available. Most examples offered in the pet trade are captive bred and hatched babies. Wild caught FWCs are often heavily parasitized, dehydrated, emaciated and difficult to acclimate. Dehydrated snakes will have difficulty shedding their skin. Many will not feed readily. Captive bred examples, a much better choice, are seasonally available and preacclimated.

 

At hatching, FWCs measure between 14 and 16 inches in length. They may require fish for the first few meals but will quickly switch to pinky mice. Adults will eat fish, amphibians, rodents and baby chicks. Most breeders feed their FWCs rodents and chicks. Acclimated FWCs accept their food enthusiastically. Take care that you aren’t inadvertently bitten at feeding time.

 

Slight cooling at night during the shortened days of winter will stimulate breeding activity. A clutch usually contains from 10 to 25 eggs, but may occasionally contain more than 30. Two clutches may be produced annually by healthy females having good body weight. With a high incubation humidity and at a temperature of 83 to 84 degrees hatching occurs after a two month incubation.

H. platirhinos.

For the external links , refrences  click here to read the full wikipedia article 

Eastern Hognose Snake

EASTERN HOGNOSE :

 

Heterodon platirhinos

 

  • Family: Xenodontidae (formerly Xenodontinae, a subfamily of the Colubridae).

  • Adult Size: Males are slightly smaller. Adults may be from 18 to 45 inches in length.

  •  

  • Range: This hog-nosed snake has an immense range. It may be found along the Atlantic seacoast from central New England to the southern tip of Florida and then westward to central Texas and central Minnesota. It also occurs in southern Ontario, Canada.

  • Habitat: Most common on sandy soils, the eastern hognose inhabits open woodlands, pasturelands, meadows and plains.

  • Captive Lifespan: 8 to 12 Years

  • Dangerous:

  • Care Level: Intermediate

Overview :

 

Known also by the vernaculars of hissing adder and spreading adder, the eastern hognosed snake is relatively slow moving, heavy bodied, and has a large upturned rostral scale. This modified nose-tip scale helps the hog-nose unearth its favorite prey speciesâ”the toad. Eastern hognoses may be all black or colored in earthen tones with large dark dorsal blotches. The scales beneath the tail (the subcaudals) are lighter in color than the belly scales. These snakes have greatly enlarged rear teeth and mild venom but can seldom be induced to bite a human. If frightened the snake will flatten and spread its neck, strike (most often with the mouth closed), and then begin writhing spasmodically, roll upside down, and play dead, mouth open and tongue lolling in the dust.

 

A pair of eastern hognoses may be maintained in a 30 to 50 gallon capacity terrarium. The substrate for these burrowing snakes may be of dry fallen oak and maple leaves, folded newspaper, several thicknesses of paper towels, aspen shavings or cypress shavings, or pelleted newspapers. Hiding areas in the form of small hollow logs or a plastic hide box should be provided. A water bowl sufficiently large for the snakes to both drink and soak is provided. The water must be kept fresh and clean.

 

Daytime illumination is provided and a small undertank heater maintains a suitable temperature gradient. The temperature on the hot end of the terrarium should be about 82 degrees Fahrenheit; the cool end should be in the 70s. Nighttime temperatures can drop into the high 60s. A daytime hot spot of about 92 to 95 degrees is provided by a basking lamp. If kept merely as a pet, the hog-nosed snake may be kept warm all winter long and it will usually continue to eat. However, they may choose to miss a meal during the cooler winter months. If you intend to breed these snakes, they will probably require a 90 day period of dormancy.

 

As mentioned, eastern hognoses prefer toads over all other prey items. It is possible to induce this snake to accept mice, but this high fat diet does not seem suitable over the long run. Hatchling hog-noses will require tiny toads. The snakes hatching usually coincides with the emergence from the ponds of the metamorphosing toadsâ”a ready made meal.

 

Although eastern hognoses usually have from 4 to 20 eggs, occasional clutches of more than 50 eggs have been documented. The hatchlings are from 6 to 9½ inches in length.

Eastern Hognose Snake Playing Dead

How to Care for Hognose Snakes : How to Handle a Hognose Snake

Hognose Care Video

How To Care For A Western Hognose Snake!

How to Care For A Western Hognose

7- FALSE WATER COBRA

Hydrodynastes gigas

 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hydrodynastes gigas is a New World species of large, rear-fanged, colubrid snake endemic to South America. The false water cobra is so named because when the snake is threatened it "hoods" as a true cobra (Naja species) does. However, unlike a true cobra, it does not rear up, but remains in a horizontal position. It is commonly and alternatively known as the false water cobra and the Brazilian smooth snake.[3] No subspecies are currently recognized.[1]

Hydrodynastes gigas

Scientific classification :

Kingdom:Animalia

Phylum:Chordata

Subphylum:Vertebrata

Class:Reptilia

Order:Squamata

Suborder:Serpentes

Family:Colubridae

Subfamily:Xenodontinae[1]

Genus:Hydrodynastes

Species:H. gigas

Binomial name

Hydrodynastes gigas
(A.M.C. Duméril, Bibron,
& A.H.A. Duméril, 1854)

Synonyms

  • Xenodon gigas A.M.C. Duméril, Bibron & A.H.A. Duméril, 1854

  • Cyclagras gigas — Cope, 1885

  • Hydrodynastes gigas — Hoge, 1966[2]

Common names :

 

Hydrodynastes gigas is commonly referred to as the false water cobra, false cobra, South American water cobra,[3] and Brazilian smooth snake. It is often referred to within the reptile hobby more simply as either a "falsy" or "falsie" or a "FWC", which is an abbreviation of the common name false water cobra.

 

In South America, it is sometimes referred to as boipevassu.[4] Additional South American common names include mboi-peba, ñacaniná, surucucu-do-pantanal, vibora ladradora (barking snake), andyacanina.[5]

 

Description :

 

H. gigas is a large colubrid that may exceed 3 m (9 to 10 ft) in total length when adult.[3] However mostH. gigas reach approximately 2 m (6 to 7 ft) in total length.[4][6] It is of medium body, and is therefore neither particularly heavy nor slender-bodied, but is one of the heaviest colubrid species when full adult size is attained. Males are much smaller than females in this species. The common name false water cobra is an allusion to its ability to flatten its neck, similar to a cobra as a defensive reaction to make it look larger and more intimidating.[6] Unlike the true cobra, though, the false water cobra stays in a horizontal position when it hoods, rather than rearing into a vertical position.[7] H. gigas can flatten not only its neck, but also lower down the body, which is not possible for a true cobra.

A pair of specimens on display at the Smithsonian National Zoological Park, Washington, DC

Additionally, the pattern and coloration of this Hydrodynastes species superficially resemble those of true water cobras (Boulengerina).

 

The false water cobra has large eyes with circular pupils, allowing good daytime vision. The tongue is black, and of the typical snake fashion.

 

The background colour of a mature specimen is an olive green or brown, with dark spots and bands covering much of its body.[4] The background coloring and banding generally become darker towards the end tail. This colouring gives the false water cobra effective camouflage in its natural rainforest environment. The ventral scales are yellow or brown, spotted with dark flecks that make three dotted lines which appear to merge towards the tail. Mehrtens, 1987, suggested females are brown ventrally, whilst males are yellow.[4] Females are suggesteed to have lighter bands and markings on their bodies.[4] This is not an effective way of judging the sex of H. gigas, as coloring will differ slightly 

 

between all individuals. Hatchling and juveniles are much darker in coloration and do not have the typical dark eyes of the adults. They more resemble a garter or water snake than their mature counterparts. In captivity, hypomelanstic animals have been produced. These animals vary in coloration, from some having only slightly lighter colored saddles, to those that are almost patternless.

 

 

Geographic range:

 

In South America it is found from eastern Bolivia to southern Brazil, and in Paraguay and Argentina.[5]

 

Habitat  :

 

H. gigas generally lives in wet, humid areas, and marshlands,[4] typically within the tropical rainforests that are common within its range. However, the false water cobra has also been observed in dryer areas,[4] although this is not its preferred habitat. The preference of wet land as a habitat for H. gigas contributes to its common name of false "water" cobra.

 

Behavior  :

 

H. gigas is primarily a diurnal species. It is also a very active and inquistive snake, which will spend much of the day climbing, burrowing and even swimming. Their temperaments can vary considerably between specimens; some are very docile and reluctant to bite, whilst others are very defensive and even aggressive or intimidating.[4] Captive-bred specimens can become quite tame and trusting and many exhibit a high level of intelligence.

 

Feeding :

 

In the wild, H. gigas primarily feeds on fish and amphibians, but will take small mammals, rodents, birds and even other reptiles. In captivity, they can be introduced to other types of food, as well.

 

Venom :

 

The posterior maxillary teeth of H. gigas are enlarged, and the Duvernoy's gland produces a secretion with high proteolytic activity. Besides the ability of this large and powerful snake to inflict mechanical trauma, numerous cases of local envenomation and perhaps hypersensitivity have occurred, most of which have gone unreported. Prolonged, chewing bites may result in painful (sometimes extensive and persistent) swelling, as well as bruising.[3] Nevertheless, the species is regularly kept as a pet, becoming increasingly popular in recent years.

 

Manning et al. (1999) described a case in which an 18-year-old male pet store employee was bitten on the wrist by a specimen that hung on for 1.5 minutes. Some mild swelling resulted, but after nine hours, the victim claimed to have experienced three bouts of muscle paralysis, during which he fell and was unable to move or speak. However, a medical examination did not produce any unusual results. The symptoms described possibly were the result of anxiety.[3]

 

Taxonomy :

 

This species was once considered to constitute a single monotypic genus, Cyclagras [8]

 

 

For the external links , refrences  click here to read the full wikipedia article 

FALSE WATER COBRA

 

Hydronastes gigas

 

-Family: Colubridae

-Adult Size: There seems to be sexual dimorphism in this rather heavy-bodied species with males being the larger sex, or at least attaining maximum growth earlier in life than females. Males also tend to be more brightly colored and strongly patterned than the females. Many females are 4½ to 5½ feet long. Males commonly exceed 6 feet in length and may near, or attain, 8 feet.

-Range: This is a snake of southern South America. It is known to occur in Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil and northern Argentina.

-Habitat: The environs of both seasonally flooded and permanent wetlands are home to this pretty snake. It does, however, occasionally stray into dryer habitats. This is especially so when temporary wetlands dry and the snake is searching for new usable habitat.

-Captive Lifespan: 12 to 20 Years

-Dangerous:

-Care Level: Advanced

Video : 

hydrodynastes gigas

Care Videos :

Intro to the False Water Cobra

Baby False Water Cobras

New Female False Water Cobra added to my collection

Hydrodynastes gigas: Brazilian Smooth snake/False Water Cobra

8- Japanese rat snake

Elaphe climacophora

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

The Japanese rat snake (Elaphe climacophora) is a medium-sized snake found throughout the Japanese archipelago (except the far South West). In Japanese it is known as the aodaishō or "blue general". It is a non-venomous snake, and a member of the colubrid family. It is hunted by eagles andraccoon dogs.

 

The snakes hibernate for three to four months, mate in spring and lay 7–20 eggs in early summer.

Japanese rat snake

Scientific classification:

Kingdom:Animalia

Phylum:Chordata

Class:Reptilia

Order:Squamata

Suborder:Serpentes

Family:Colubridae

Genus:Elaphe

Species:E. climacophora

Binomial name:

Elaphe climacophora
(Boie, 1826)

Description :

 

Adults reach a length of between one and two meters and a girth of about five centimeters.E. climacophora is the largest Japanese snake outside of Okinawa. The color is variable, from pale yellow-green to dark blue-green.

 

Juveniles have a pattern of brown stripes, which may be an example of mimesis to the venomousmamushi. An albino form is known, especially around Iwakuni, where they are known and revered as "Iwakuni white snakes". The albino population was protected in 1924 as a "National Monument".

 

Feeding :

 

Japanese rat snakes eat a variety of small animals: rodents, frogs or lizards. They are good at climbing and often raid bird nests. They were favoured by farmers as effective rat control, though unpopular with chicken rearers.

 

Hybrids :

 

In the German reptile zoo Exotarium Oberhof Elaphe climacophora mated with Elaphe schrenckii to produce fertile hybrids. Offspring look very much like Elaphe taeniura.

Japanese rat snake

Elaphe climacophora by Kawahara Keiga, 1823-1829

Head

Video : 

For the external links , refrences  click here to read the full wikipedia article 

Elaphe Climacophora

 

courtesy to :  acsnakes.co.uk/care/japanese.htm

Introduction :

 

The Japanese Ratsnake is a semi arboreal species of the colubrid family which comes in both a blotched and a striped form with some specimens appearing to be a combination of the two.  The colour of the wild type is highly variable from quite dull olive to bright greens with flashes of yellows with some individuals being grey or even blue.  Most specimens, particularly the striped form, have grey heads.  Ventral colour can range from white to very dark blue which often appears black.

 

One of their natural food items is eggs and they have developed a number of modified vertebrae which are used to break the egg as they swallow it.

 

This species is active mainly at dawn and dusk (crepuscular) and is also known as Blue or Green General, Climac or in the case of the albino, the Japanese name is Shirohebi.

Experience Level :

 

Intermediate

 

Temperament :

 

Known for being a little nippy, especially hatchlings, however, ours are often shy and a little nervous but normally prefer to musk and then flee rather than bite.

Naturally Occuring Variants :

Blotched, Striped, Albino

Expected Adult  :

Length120 to 160cm

Recommended Housing :

 

Vivarium or plastic tubs

We prefer to use tubs as we found them to be much better to keep clean.

Other requirements :

-Suitably large water bowl for them to drink and bathe

-A minimum of 2 hides (1 in the cool end and 1 in the warm end) one of which could be moist

-Climbing branches are advantageous but not essential

 

Temperature Range:

 

25°C (77°F) to 28°C (82°F)

We have found that even a small drop from this temperature can cause some Japanese Ratsnakes to go off their food.

 

Recommended Heating:

 

Viv - Guarded Ceramic heater or heat mat

Tub - Heat mat

Whichever method is used, the temperature should be controlled by a suitable thermostat and monitored using a digital thermometer

Origin :

 

Japan and Kunashir Island

 

Natural Environment :

 

Barns, Houses and other Buildings, Forests, Rice Fields, Bamboo Thickets, Dry Stone Walls, Grasslands, Ditches and Near Water

 

Recommended Substrate:

 

We prefer to use Aspen.

 

Natural Diet:


Rodents, Birds and their Eggs, Frogs, Lizards, Snakes and Squirrels

 

Primary Captive Diet:


Rodents

 

Recommended links:

 

http://www.ratsnakefoundation.org/

Videos for care of Japanese Rat Snake :

 

 

ninja snake / ヘビの予想外な行動力 20160614 japanese rat snake アオダイショウ 蛇

Reptiles, Amphibians, Invertebrates & Small Pets : Japanese Rat Snake Facts

Japanese rat snake Hand Feeding FAIL

Japanese rat snake feeding

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