Gonocephalus boydi
Boyd’s Forest Dragon

General Care-
As with the other forms of bearded dragons Boyd’s require UVA/B lighting to be happy and grow normally without any bone deficiencies. Generally feeding a nice variety of insect’s morning and afternoon will keep them happy for a very long time; I will talk about other food types and supplements a little later on. Boyd’s can usually live for about 10-15yrs (there’s always the odd exception to this rule as with all animals.).

Enclosure Requirements- 
Boyd’s dragons are more difficult to look after then Bearded Dragons and can grow between around 35cm-45cm with somewhere around 40cm being the norm.
As full grown adults you can easily keep a pair in a 4ftx3ftx2ft (LxHxD) enclosure.
Unlike other dragons Boyd’s do not require a basking spot however artificial UVA/B lighting is needed this can be achieved by using MVB light or UVB fluro ect.
The temperatures you will want to achieve are 25-30c ambient temperature. 
Due to high humidity requirements (80-90%) it is pretty much a must to have a water feature like a waterfall or even a sprinkler system in the enclosure.

Substrate-
Best and most common substrate used is Coco Pete or Sphagnum Moss as these will both help hold in the moisture and generally looks nice while keeping the humidity up.
 

Lighting-
Most people will tend to use Bulbs that emit heat AND UVB/A rays like a Mercery Vapour Bulb (MVB), while others will prefer to use a UVB 5.0 fluro to do the job since MVB’s can produce a lot of heat.
Generally you will want to have the lighting/heating on a 10-12hr a day system I would opt for is 9-10yrs during the winter and 10-12hrs a day during summer.
Once again if your enclosure gets below 18/19c you will want to look into some kind of heating as temperatures this low will cause respiration problems aver prolonged exposure

Brumation-
Brumation (sleeping) is usually done during the winter months drop your temperatures down by a few degree’s to simulate winter, generally your dragon won’t do much but sleep and eat/drink whatever it needs to stay alive this is also an integral part of preparing bearded dragons for breeding.

Food-
Feeding your little buddies is extremely easy and feeding them various insects several times a day is quite beneficial for them as it is where they get most of their water from as well as general supplements it is good to add multical vitamins to their food every 2-3 days to help keep their vitamins up.
Insects like crickets and woodies can be purchased from most pet shops these days and will come with a small packet called gutload add this packet and even some multical vitamins to their container give it a shake before feeding them to your dragons, A general rule of thumb is to feed them as many as they will eat and remove the excess however leaving a few woodies in there for them to snack on at will shouldn’t hurt.
Sizing the food for your dragon is pretty easy as long as the item is smaller than the distance between the eyes of your dragon it is good to go.
Various other insects can be fed to them such as silkworms, mealworms, flies, common house cockroaches, Earthworms (easy to culture yourself) ect.

Sexing-
Sexing dragons of all types can be quite difficult to do until they mature (12months however some experienced breeders can sex them before this).
Males tend to be larger than females and have a larger bulkier head 

Breeding-
Breeding with these little guys will usually start to occur shortly after brumation.
Once brumation is finished and they start to become more active bump your temperatures back up to the ideal specs and start feeding your pair up.
The courting ritual will usually take a few weeks of the male constantly chaseing the female around and displaying his bright yellow dewlap, occasionally you may even see the male biting the female on the back of the neck.
It is also good to feed your full grown female a pinkie mouse once in a while during breeding season to help her build up her reserves.