Distribution  :

C.versicolor occurs from Iran, eastwards to Indonesia. It has been introduced to many locations including Florida, the Maldives and Borneo where it can be a potentially invasive species as in Singapore where it is out-competing the native Green crested lizard Bronchocela cristatella. It is highly adaptable, occupying dry rocky habitats through to disturbed areas of secondary forest. It is usually found in highly disturbed areas including in and around human dwellings.

Vivarium :

A vivarium for C.versicolor can be horizontally or vertically orientated. It should offer plenty of climbing branches, a sand/soil mixture as substrate and plenty of rocks for perching on. Dimensions of 60cm X 90cm X 45cm (Width X Height X Depth) are suitable for an adult trio (1.2). A water bowl is not necessary as these lizards obtain their large water requirement through drinking droplets. 

Heating and Lighting :

C.versicolor need a warm vivarium with background temperatures of 27-32C elevated to near 40C directly below a basking light by day and a drop to around 24C is beneficial at night. Full spectrum, high output UV lighting should be used with 12% T5 tubes or floodlights being my preferred sources. A common misconception with these lizards is that just because they are an Asian species; they occur in rainforests. I believe this to be a large part of the reason that this species hasn’t been established in hobby yet with most literature claiming them to be a very difficult species to accommodate. C.versicolor actually actively avoids rainforests in its native range.

Humidity and Water :

C.versicolor will eventually learn to drink from standing water if it is disturbed by droplets. A far easier way to supply their water needs is to simply spray once daily, heavily when the lizards will lick up the resulting droplets and will allow the humidity levels of 50-70% to be maintained. If the relative humidity is too low the lizards will not shed their skin and with time it will become constricted around the attractive crest scales and cause them to lose blood supply and fall off. Grey, flaky scales are also a sign of inadequate humidity. Equally important, however, is the fact that humidity should not be any higher than this for long periods, as would be the case in many other Asian agamids, as C.versicolor may succumb to respiratory and fungal issues. Humidity should be slightly higher during the night.  

Feeding :

C.versicolor is notorious for eating smaller lizards, part of the reason it is an invasive species where it has been introduced. Adults should therefore definitely not be housed with juveniles and eggs should be removed for artificial incubation! They will feed on any appropriately sized insect and adults may take pinky mice occasionally. This species should be fed every second day, with every second feed being dusted with calcium and multivitamins dusted weekly. Flying insects are a favourite. Overly fatty foods such as waxmoth larvae should only be fed on occasion. Do not allow livefood to escape and hide in the vivarium- agamids are diurnal and easily disturbed at night by nocturnal insects such as crickets and may even be bitten while sleeping. In small species such as Calotes insect bites can be especially harmful. Hatchlings will take small soldier fly larvae (calci/phoenix worms), fruit flies, bean weevils and very small crickets and hatchling locusts. Young Calotes should be fed daily with every feed lightly dusted with calcium. Once they reach around 6 months of age I reduce feeding regularity to every other day and calcium supplementation to every second feed.