Breeding :

The males begin to distinguish at about 5-7 months of life, the tail looks thickened at the base, because of the emipeni locations. 
Females on the other hand have no bulge. 
Another feature is the body size, males are more slender companions, who instead have a bit 'of bacon and axillary fat reserves. Bruma: The haze is expected to last around six weeks maximum, with temperatures around 16 °, some haze at 10 ° but it is quite dangerous with such small animals. The specimens should be fed well in the period prior to the mist, after which it starts to gradually decrease temperature and light, once they have reached the 30 degrees of maximum need to stop feeding the specimens, which will thus have the time to digest and defecate l ' last meal. Usually you start to gradually decrease the photoperiod and temperature in December and, after six weeks in a cool, the temperatures are restored towards the end of February, more gradually. Breeding and Reproduction: They are early dinosaurs, live relatively little (5 years on average) and reach sexual maturity at 6 months of life, but it is much better to wait at least 11 months before you make matches. More males can live together, but they must have at least one female head, to avoid quarrels during courtship. Obviously being living things are not all the same, captain of the shyest and most bullies, watching for dangerous behavior (ie specimens that eat little, are hidden .. or alcontrario specimens that bother the shrine companions) it is best to divide the 'weak exemplary or that too impetuous; Sometimes you just need to remove them for a medium to long term, in the next reintroduction usually things are better. Once the specimens in our possession will be mature, they will begin to notice the courtship (head bobbing and parades around the female) and subsequently the pair, a bit 'rough but not dangerous. The male, as in many species of lizards, grabs the female by the neck skin and, if available, from the beginning to the copula. Gestation lasts about 6 weeks, the female will become more plump and 15 days before the deposition, the coloring of the head will turn from red to gray, while a week before the deposition will begin excavations. In this phase, take care to wet the sand in areas where the female digs more assiduously, because there will be that at the end will spawn. Other imminent deposition signals are poor appetite and "bumps" in the abdomen depending on the positions where lies down. Usually they lay from 5 to 8 eggs, in one of the excavated tunnel (what it deems most suitable for humidity and temperature) and then cover the whole to perfection, so be careful to remember the location of all holes, a good asoluzione would be to photograph the terrarium, to have a kind of map! A female who has just taken down very well known, will appear with the sunken abdomen, can take effect this aspect of corners, but within one day resurface a bit 'of bacon and will recover well. After the deposition and during the following days offer plenty of food and well integrated, because the eggs take away a lot of calcium reserves. On average they lay 4-5 times a year, at a distance of 4-6 weeks apart. Eggs and incubation: Eggs are elongated, but a soft-shelled hard-boiled, less than 1 cm long and a nice bright white. They should be taken lightly, as soon as the female has covered the tunnel and moved away. The ideal is to dig with their fingers, very gently and once reached, helping with a spoon will be easier to recover them without damaging them. I nightmare of perlite, perlite do not look at the relationship: water, bathroom simply under the stream of water (warm) tap water, do drain well in a colander and then put it back in an airtight container for food, non-perforated. The eggs should be lying in the gutter, so it does not roll, spaced from each other as much as possible (never less than 1 cm between the one and the other), as well temperatures ranging from 27 to 29 degrees, humidity 80-90% . With each passing day, the fertile egg will grow in volume and become quite rounded, that is, take the classic egg shape; sterile ones (already ugly at first sight being yellowish or with odd-shaped) or damaged instead will not increase in volume, but will deteriorate; They will then removed. To avoid the condensation dripping on eggs can put a thickness under one side of the incubation box, so that the droplets do not fall "rain" but slipping along the cover until you get to touch an edge, finally ricolando in perlite. At a temperature of 27-28 degrees my have started to hatch around the 50th day. From 1 to 2 days before hatching, the eggs will begin to sweat, will coat ie internal liquid droplets (transparent) and decrease of volume. The second stage involves the formation of nicks in one of the egg and ends shortly thereafter will see tick the nose of the unborn child. With her head off can also be more than 24 hours, DO NOT FEEL absolutely, 100% when they are ready to voluntarily abandon the egg. From the first output of the last born may take 2-3 days, do not worry everything is normal. Babies: The babies are really beautiful and tiny (3-4 cm maximum nose-tip of the tail), perfect miniatures of the parents, born with a discreet vest and for the first few days, usually 1-2, do not feed because they have to still dispose the internal yolk sac. Just come out from the egg transfer them in a box with damp paper towel as the bottom and leave them in the incubator until they begin to wander. Once you are recovered from the fatigues of birth, them move to a Spartan box, previously prepared and already in temperature, furnished with sand (a just finger and advances), a cork bark or cartons for eggs, two bowls for water (in a cold and in a hot zone) and a few sprigs. How to use lamps one spot and a compact UVB to 5% (it is very close to the small, the 10% could not do well in infants) Nebulizzo 2 times per day the cork and often directly piccolini (always with warm water), a another method may be to drop droplets with a syringe, needle, on the head of each puppy. The food is the same as the only further scaled-parents, itegrazioni and the availability of calcium remain the same. At first they will be very interested exclusively to insects, so it is best to introduce vegetables in the diet is to mix such as beetles of beans with vegetable confetti, the movement will push them to also enjoy it (choose vibrant colors to get you started: red, yellow, orange, dark green) by mistake or out of curiosity, usually after a few days of hesitation they will eat it without fuss. It 'better to provide food 3-4 times a day in small amounts rather than in a single solution, so they can feed all insects are few free for the shrine. They grow very fast, so be careful to always provide adequate UVB (remember that after about 6-7 months to be replaced) and the appropriate calcium supplements and calcium + D3. The pups of the same brood may be held together as long as they are all the same size and there are not too timid specimens or impetuous, in this case better to separate them from the group. Conclusions: They are easy to breed and reproduce dinosaurs, the only flaw remains the micro food to be much and varied. Not always, from newbies, you are able to hold certain farming rhythms and insect reproduction, then you might think to buy it from time to time, but it is somewhat risky, because not always the suppliers have pinheads and not always sold colonies (of various insects) in full of flickering. For example ordering beetle colonies of beans is likely to receive jars full of beans and eggs, but with ten adults .. which, in an emergency, it is not much help! So they have dinosaurs easy, but first think about food: you'll have to raise various insettini, must always be available and especially in large quantities. a well-fed insect will provide a good meal for our reptiles, insects are what they eat so choose accordingly. NB When using the one with D3 obviously do not give pure calcium. It 'also a good idea to leave a saucer, or sprinkle a rock / cork with Calcium + D3, available in the casket .. females and young people will use it willingly. Sessaggio: The males begin to distinguish at about 5-7 months of life, the tail looks thickened at the base, because of the emipeni locations. Females on the other hand have no bulge. Another feature is the body size, males are more slender companions, who instead have a bit 'of bacon and axillary fat reserves. Bruma: The haze is expected to last around six weeks maximum, with temperatures around 16 °, some haze at 10 ° but it is quite dangerous with such small animals. The specimens should be fed well in the period prior to the mist, after which it starts to gradually decrease temperature and light, once they have reached the 30 degrees of maximum need to stop feeding the specimens, which will thus have the time to digest and defecate l ' last meal. Usually you start to gradually decrease the photoperiod and temperature in December and, after six weeks in a cool, the temperatures are restored towards the end of February, more gradually. Breeding and Reproduction: They are early dinosaurs, live relatively little (5 years on average) and reach sexual maturity at 6 months of life, but it is much better to wait at least 11 months before you make matches. More males can live together, but they must have at least one female head, to avoid quarrels during courtship. Obviously being living things are not all the same, captain of the shyest and most bullies, watching for dangerous behavior (ie specimens that eat little, are hidden .. or alcontrario specimens that bother the shrine companions) it is best to divide the 'weak exemplary or that too impetuous; Sometimes you just need to remove them for a medium to long term, in the next reintroduction usually things are better. Once the specimens in our possession will be mature, they will begin to notice the courtship (head bobbing and parades around the female) and subsequently the pair, a bit 'rough but not dangerous. The male, as in many species of lizards, grabs the female by the neck skin and, if available, from the beginning to the copula. Gestation lasts about 6 weeks, the female will become more plump and 15 days before the deposition, the coloring of the head will turn from red to gray, while a week before the deposition will begin excavations. In this phase, take care to wet the sand in areas where the female digs more assiduously, because there will be that at the end will spawn. Other imminent deposition signals are poor appetite and "bumps" in the abdomen depending on the positions where lies down. Usually they lay from 5 to 8 eggs, in one of the excavated tunnel (what it deems most suitable for humidity and temperature) and then cover the whole to perfection, so be careful to remember the location of all holes, a good asoluzione would be to photograph the terrarium, to have a kind of map! A female who has just taken down very well known, will appear with the sunken abdomen, can take effect this aspect of corners, but within one day resurface a bit 'of bacon and will recover well. After the deposition and during the following days offer plenty of food and well integrated, because the eggs take away a lot of calcium reserves. On average they lay 4-5 times a year, at a distance of 4-6 weeks apart. Eggs and incubation: Eggs are elongated, but a soft-shelled hard-boiled, less than 1 cm long and a nice bright white. They should be taken lightly, as soon as the female has covered the tunnel and moved away. The ideal is to dig with their fingers, very gently and once reached, helping with a spoon will be easier to recover them without damaging them. I nightmare of perlite, perlite do not look at the relationship: water, bathroom simply under the stream of water (warm) tap water, do drain well in a colander and then put it back in an airtight container for food, non-perforated. The eggs should be lying in the gutter, so it does not roll, spaced from each other as much as possible (never less than 1 cm between the one and the other), as well temperatures ranging from 27 to 29 degrees, humidity 80-90% . With each passing day, the fertile egg will grow in volume and become quite rounded, that is, take the classic egg shape; sterile ones (already ugly at first sight being yellowish or with odd-shaped) or damaged instead will not increase in volume, but will deteriorate; They will then removed. To avoid the condensation dripping on eggs can put a thickness under one side of the incubation box, so that the droplets do not fall "rain" but slipping along the cover until you get to touch an edge, finally ricolando in perlite. At a temperature of 27-28 degrees my have started to hatch around the 50th day. From 1 to 2 days before hatching, the eggs will begin to sweat, will coat ie internal liquid droplets (transparent) and decrease of volume. The second stage involves the formation of nicks in one of the egg and ends shortly thereafter will see tick the nose of the unborn child. With her head off can also be more than 24 hours, DO NOT FEEL absolutely, 100% when they are ready to voluntarily abandon the egg. From the first output of the last born may take 2-3 days, do not worry everything is normal. Babies: The babies are really beautiful and tiny (3-4 cm maximum nose-tip of the tail), perfect miniatures of the parents, born with a discreet vest and for the first few days, usually 1-2, do not feed because they have to still dispose the internal yolk sac. Just come out from the egg transfer them in a box with damp paper towel as the bottom and leave them in the incubator until they begin to wander. Once you are recovered from the fatigues of birth, them move to a Spartan box, previously prepared and already in temperature, furnished with sand (a just finger and advances), a cork bark or cartons for eggs, two bowls for water (in a cold and in a hot zone) and a few sprigs. How to use lamps one spot and a compact UVB to 5% (it is very close to the small, the 10% could not do well in infants) Nebulizzo 2 times per day the cork and often directly piccolini (always with warm water), a another method may be to drop droplets with a syringe, needle, on the head of each puppy. The food is the same as the only further scaled-parents, itegrazioni and the availability of calcium remain the same. At first they will be very interested exclusively to insects, so it is best to introduce vegetables in the diet is to mix such as beetles of beans with vegetable confetti, the movement will push them to also enjoy it (choose vibrant colors to get you started: red, yellow, orange, dark green) by mistake or out of curiosity, usually after a few days of hesitation they will eat it without fuss. It 'better to provide food 3-4 times a day in small amounts rather than in a single solution, so they can feed all insects are few free for the shrine. They grow very fast, so be careful to always provide adequate UVB (remember that after about 6-7 months to be replaced) and the appropriate calcium supplements and calcium + D3. The pups of the same brood may be held together as long as they are all the same size and there are not too timid specimens or impetuous, in this case better to separate them from the group. Conclusions: They are easy to breed and reproduce dinosaurs, the only flaw remains the micro food to be much and varied. Not always, from newbies, you are able to hold certain farming rhythms and insect reproduction, then you might think to buy it from time to time, but it is somewhat risky, because not always the suppliers have pinheads and not always sold colonies (of various insects) in full of flickering. For example ordering beetle colonies of beans is likely to receive jars full of beans and eggs, but with ten adults .. which, in an emergency, it is not much help! So they have dinosaurs easy, but first think about food: you'll have to raise various insettini, must always be available and especially in large quantities. a well-fed insect will provide a good meal for our reptiles, insects are what they eat so choose accordingly. NB When using the one with D3 obviously do not give pure calcium. It 'also a good idea to leave a saucer, or sprinkle a rock / cork with Calcium + D3, available in the casket .. females and young people will use it willingly. Sessaggio: The males begin to distinguish at about 5-7 months of life, the tail looks thickened at the base, because of the emipeni locations. Females on the other hand have no bulge. Another feature is the body size, males are more slender companions, who instead have a bit 'of bacon and axillary fat reserves. Bruma: The haze is expected to last around six weeks maximum, with temperatures around 16 °, some haze at 10 ° but it is quite dangerous with such small animals. The specimens should be fed well in the period prior to the mist, after which it starts to gradually decrease temperature and light, once they have reached the 30 degrees of maximum need to stop feeding the specimens, which will thus have the time to digest and defecate l ' last meal. Usually you start to gradually decrease the photoperiod and temperature in December and, after six weeks in a cool, the temperatures are restored towards the end of February, more gradually. Breeding and Reproduction: They are early dinosaurs, live relatively little (5 years on average) and reach sexual maturity at 6 months of life, but it is much better to wait at least 11 months before you make matches. More males can live together, but they must have at least one female head, to avoid quarrels during courtship. Obviously being living things are not all the same, captain of the shyest and most bullies, watching for dangerous behavior (ie specimens that eat little, are hidden .. or alcontrario specimens that bother the shrine companions) it is best to divide the 'weak exemplary or that too impetuous; Sometimes you just need to remove them for a medium to long term, in the next reintroduction usually things are better. Once the specimens in our possession will be mature, they will begin to notice the courtship (head bobbing and parades around the female) and subsequently the pair, a bit 'rough but not dangerous. The male, as in many species of lizards, grabs the female by the neck skin and, if available, from the beginning to the copula. Gestation lasts about 6 weeks, the female will become more plump and 15 days before the deposition, the coloring of the head will turn from red to gray, while a week before the deposition will begin excavations. In this phase, take care to wet the sand in areas where the female digs more assiduously, because there will be that at the end will spawn. Other imminent deposition signals are poor appetite and "bumps" in the abdomen depending on the positions where lies down. Usually they lay from 5 to 8 eggs, in one of the excavated tunnel (what it deems most suitable for humidity and temperature) and then cover the whole to perfection, so be careful to remember the location of all holes, a good asoluzione would be to photograph the terrarium, to have a kind of map! A female who has just taken down very well known, will appear with the sunken abdomen, can take effect this aspect of corners, but within one day resurface a bit 'of bacon and will recover well. After the deposition and during the following days offer plenty of food and well integrated, because the eggs take away a lot of calcium reserves. On average they lay 4-5 times a year, at a distance of 4-6 weeks apart. Eggs and incubation: Eggs are elongated, but a soft-shelled hard-boiled, less than 1 cm long and a nice bright white. They should be taken lightly, as soon as the female has covered the tunnel and moved away. The ideal is to dig with their fingers, very gently and once reached, helping with a spoon will be easier to recover them without damaging them. I nightmare of perlite, perlite do not look at the relationship: water, bathroom simply under the stream of water (warm) tap water, do drain well in a colander and then put it back in an airtight container for food, non-perforated. The eggs should be lying in the gutter, so it does not roll, spaced from each other as much as possible (never less than 1 cm between the one and the other), as well temperatures ranging from 27 to 29 degrees, humidity 80-90% . With each passing day, the fertile egg will grow in volume and become quite rounded, that is, take the classic egg shape; sterile ones (already ugly at first sight being yellowish or with odd-shaped) or damaged instead will not increase in volume, but will deteriorate; They will then removed. To avoid the condensation dripping on eggs can put a thickness under one side of the incubation box, so that the droplets do not fall "rain" but slipping along the cover until you get to touch an edge, finally ricolando in perlite. At a temperature of 27-28 degrees my have started to hatch around the 50th day. From 1 to 2 days before hatching, the eggs will begin to sweat, will coat ie internal liquid droplets (transparent) and decrease of volume. The second stage involves the formation of nicks in one of the egg and ends shortly thereafter will see tick the nose of the unborn child. With her head off can also be more than 24 hours, DO NOT FEEL absolutely, 100% when they are ready to voluntarily abandon the egg. From the first output of the last born may take 2-3 days, do not worry everything is normal. Babies: The babies are really beautiful and tiny (3-4 cm maximum nose-tip of the tail), perfect miniatures of the parents, born with a discreet vest and for the first few days, usually 1-2, do not feed because they have to still dispose the internal yolk sac. Just come out from the egg transfer them in a box with damp paper towel as the bottom and leave them in the incubator until they begin to wander. Once you are recovered from the fatigues of birth, them move to a Spartan box, previously prepared and already in temperature, furnished with sand (a just finger and advances), a cork bark or cartons for eggs, two bowls for water (in a cold and in a hot zone) and a few sprigs. How to use lamps one spot and a compact UVB to 5% (it is very close to the small, the 10% could not do well in infants) Nebulizzo 2 times per day the cork and often directly piccolini (always with warm water), a another method may be to drop droplets with a syringe, needle, on the head of each puppy. The food is the same as the only further scaled-parents, itegrazioni and the availability of calcium remain the same. At first they will be very interested exclusively to insects, so it is best to introduce vegetables in the diet is to mix such as beetles of beans with vegetable confetti, the movement will push them to also enjoy it (choose vibrant colors to get you started: red, yellow, orange, dark green) by mistake or out of curiosity, usually after a few days of hesitation they will eat it without fuss. It 'better to provide food 3-4 times a day in small amounts rather than in a single solution, so they can feed all insects are few free for the shrine. They grow very fast, so be careful to always provide adequate UVB (remember that after about 6-7 months to be replaced) and the appropriate calcium supplements and calcium + D3. The pups of the same brood may be held together as long as they are all the same size and there are not too timid specimens or impetuous, in this case better to separate them from the group. Conclusions: They are easy to breed and reproduce dinosaurs, the only flaw remains the micro food to be much and varied. Not always, from newbies, you are able to hold certain farming rhythms and insect reproduction, then you might think to buy it from time to time, but it is somewhat risky, because not always the suppliers have pinheads and not always sold colonies (of various insects) in full of flickering. For example ordering beetle colonies of beans is likely to receive jars full of beans and eggs, but with ten adults .. which, in an emergency, it is not much help! So they have dinosaurs easy, but first think about food: you'll have to raise various insettini, must always be available and especially in large quantities.