Natural history :
This is the most widely distributed tortoise in Southern Africa. It has a wide distribution in sub-Saharan Africa, but is absent from all of West Africa and most of Central Africa. It has been recorded in Botswana, Burundi, DR Congo, Ethiopia, Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, Rwanda, Somalia, South Africa, Sudan, Swaziland, Tanzania, Uganda,Zambia and Zimbabwe.[1] Leopard tortoises are the fourth largest species of tortoise, after the African spurred tortoise, the Galapagos tortoise, and Aldabra giant tortoise.
Conservation :
Leopard tortoises are increasingly being bred in captivity. This is a positive development, as it should lead to a gradual reduction in demand for animals caught in the wild. In most cases, wild-caught leopard tortoises are not only loaded with ticks, mites and internal parasites, but they are usually very stressed and dehydrated and may not voluntarily eat. Even in the best of circumstances, wild-caught leopard tortoises will run up extensive veterinary bills and much time will be spent rehabilitating them. As of March 22, 2000, the USDA has banned importation of the Leopard tortoise, Bell's hinge-back tortoise and the African spurred tortoise.
In the wild, healthy populations still exist in rural areas, national parks and nature reserves. However, it is a staple food item in the diets of many local peoples. In areas of significant human populations, the leopard tortoise is considered vulnerable.
This tortoise is listed in CITES Appendix II.
Breeding and Reproduction :
A very long-lived animal, the leopard tortoise reaches sexual maturity between the ages of 12 and 15 years. Captive leopard tortoises, however, grow faster and may mature as young as 6 years of age.
Leopard tortoises "court" by the male ramming the female. When mating, the male makes grunting vocalizations. After mating, the female lays a clutch consisting of 5 to 18 eggs. The South African leopard tortoise is significantly more difficult to breed in captivity than the common leopard tortoise, S. p. babcocki. Eggs will rarely hatch in an incubator. Most successes have occurred when eggs are left in the ground, and when the climate is similar to the natural one for these tortoises.
Leopard Tortoise
Stigmochelys pardalis
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Leopard tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis) is a large and attractively marked tortoise found in the savannas of Eastern and Southern Africa, from Sudan to the southernCape. It is the only member of the genus Stigmochelys, but in the past it was commonly placed in Geochelone instead.[1] This chelonian is a grazing species of tortoise that favors semi-arid, thorny to grassland habitats, although some leopard tortoises have been found in rainier areas. In both very hot and very cold weather they may dwell in abandoned fox, jackal, or anteater holes. Leopard tortoises do not dig other than to make nests in which to lay eggs. Not surprisingly, given its propensity for grasslandhabitats, it grazes extensively upon mixed grasses. It also favors succulents and thistles, and (in captivity) the fruit and pads of the prickly pear cactus (Opuntia sp.) (cactus are New World plants not native to Africa). The African Leopard Tortoise typically lives 80 to 100 years.
Leopard tortoise
Conservation status :
CITES Appendix II (CITES)
Scientific classification :
Kingdom:Animalia
Phylum:Chordate
Class:Sauropsida
Order:Testudines
Suborder:Cryptodira
Superfamily:Testudinoidea
Family:Testudinidae
Genus:Stigmochelys
Gray, 1873
Species:S. pardalis
Binomial name
Stigmochelys pardalis[1][2]
(Bell, 1828)
Synonyms[3]
-Testudo pardalis Bell, 1828
-Testudo biguttata Cuvier, 1829(nomen nudum)
-Testudo armata Boie, 1831(nomen nudum)
-Testudo bipunctata Gray, 1831
-Geochelone (Geochelone) pardalis Fitzinger, 1835
-Megachersine pardalis Hewitt, 1933
-Testudo pardalis pardalisLoveridge, 1935
-Geochelone pardalis pardalisLoveridge & Williams, 1957
-Stigmochelys pardalis Gerlach, 2001
-Centrochelys pardalis pardalisVetter, 2002
-Stigmochelys pardalis pardalisBour, 2002
-Psammobates pardalis Le, Raxworthy, McCord & Mertz, 2006
-Testudo pardalis babcockiLoveridge, 1935
-Geochelone pardalis babcockiLoveridge & Williams, 1957
-Geochelone babcocki Pritchard, 1967
-Geochelone paradalis babcocki Dadd, 1974
-Geochelone pardalis baboockiMłynarski, 1976 (ex errore)
-Centrochelys pardalis babcockiVetter, 2002
-Stigmochelys pardalis babcocki Bour, 2002
-Geochelone pardalis babcockiiLe, Raxworthy, McCord & Mertz, 2006 (ex errore)
Taxonomy and etymology :
Its generic name is a combination of two Greek words:Stigma meaning "mark" or "point"* and Chelone(Χελωνη) meaning "tortoise". Its specific name pardalis is from the Latinword pardus meaning "leopard" and refers to the leopard-likespots on the tortoise's shell.
- Description
The leopard tortoise is the fourth largest species of tortoise in the world, with typical adults reaching 18-inch (460 mm) and weighing 40-pound (18 kg).[4] Large examples may be 70-centimetre (28 in) long and weigh up to 120-pound (54 kg).[5] An adult's maximum shell length can reach a 24-inch (610 mm) diameter.[4]
There are regional reports of much larger specimens. Exceptionally the giant Ethiopian form might reach 100-centimetre (39 in). In humid forests in southern Sudan Stigmochelys pardalis may attain lengths of 45 inches.[citation needed]
The carapace is high and domed, sometimes with pyramid shaped scutes. Juveniles and young adults are attractively marked and the markings on each individual are unique. The skin and background colour are cream to yellow, and the carapace is marked with black blotches, spots or even dashes or stripes. However, in mature adults the markings tend to fade to a slaty, nondescript brown or grey, commonly tinged with the local dust.
Behavior :
Leopard tortoises are herbivorous. They are more defensive than offensive, retracting feet and head into their shell for protection. This often results in a hissing sound, probably due to the squeezing of air from the lungs as the limbs and head are retracted.
Adaptations :
Like most tortoises, they can retract their head and feet into their shell in defense when threatened. Also like all tortoises and turtles, their mouth is a "beak". The rear legs are very trunk-like, the front legs are almost paddle shaped and "pigeon-toed" with a row of small "nails". They can move very fast on these legs, and maneuver over rocky terrain easily They can also climb and go underwater for up to 10 minutes. Younger animals have a surprising ability to climb, as their toenails provide a very secure grip on wood, concrete, and rough stone surfaces. Small Leopard Tortoises (under 6 inch length) have been observed climbing vertically up and over a 12-inch-high (300 mm) wooden board intended to be an enclosure boundary.
As a pet :
Leopard tortoises became popular in captivity due to captive breeding. These turtles are very prone to respiratory problems if temperatures are not maintained. Leopard tortoises live at 75-100 degrees Fahrenheit. The southern leopard tortoise is more cold tolerant than the northern leopard tortoise.
Housing a Pet Leopard Tortoise Indoors
Pet leopard tortoises should mostly live indoors for at least the first six months of life while they are small (vulnerable to predators) and delicate. Adults need a lot of space – at least a 4ftx6ft enclosure. Hatchlings can live in a 2ftx2ft container, such as an underbed storage tub, but they and large aquariums are typically outgrown quickly. The more roaming room, the better, especially if the tortoise is being housed indoors as an adult. Depending on outdoor temperature and safety, tortoises can begin spending an hour or two outside right away, and after around two years they can be moved outside permanently, although bringing them inside at night might be advisable. They are at risk of predation from birds, raccoons, possums, feral animals, birds, and many other creatures, so they need to be a suitable size before being left outside unsupervised. With these risks in mind, outdoor time is the absolute best thing for a tortoise. Nothing is better than natural sunlight and grazing.[6]
Wet Vs. Dry
Recently, there has been debate over how best to raise a pet leopard tortoise for the first six months-one year of its life. The Old School argument is that leopard tortoises are native to arid grasslands and therefore should be raised “dry” on a sandy substrate with low humidity and no available water. This is said to prevent respiratory infections and lower the risk of young tortoises drowning in water dishes. Recent research of wild leopard tortoises reveal that eggs hatch during a rainy season, with almost marshy conditions for the first few months of a tortoise’s life. Furthermore, tortoises spend a great deal of time under plants and partially or totally hidden in underground burrows where humidity is much higher. This is especially true of young tortoises that are still small enough to be vulnerable to predators.
Substrate is coco coir, fir mulch, and sphagnum moss. Natural slate tile and medium-sized river stones help keep nails and beak trim. Small tupperware filled with a patch of safe grass provides browsing that can be refilled when finished. Tropical potted plant provides natural foliage.
Leopard tortoise eating plant material.
The New School argues for leopard tortoises to be raised “wet”, especially in the first six months, with at least 80% humidity and frequent soaks. This is shown to help prevent “pyramiding” in leopard tortoises. Crucial to this method is a closed enclosure. Humidity and temperature cannot be maintained in a traditional open-top enclosure. With the wet method, temperatures should never drop below 80 °F in order to prevent respiratory infections. The enclosure should include a humid hide such as a terra cotta flower pot slightly buried on its side. The tortoise should be soaked in shallow tepid water (85 °F-95 °F) at least three times a week for at least fifteen minutes each time. The water should be about a third of the way up the body. Hatchlings should be soaked more often and for longer periods, daily soaks of thirty minutes each being ideal. Shallow water dishes, such as terra cotta plant saucers, should be available to the tortoise 24/7. Water should be too shallow to drown in if the tortoise flips, and the dish should be easy to climb in and out of. Live safe plants and daily misting with a water bottle are useful way to maintain humidity.[7]
The extended legs indicate relaxation and a perfect soaking temperature, around 85 degrees F
Substrate :
The enclosure should have 3-6in of substrate to maintain humidity and provide room for shallow burrowing. Options are: Coco coir, fir bark mulch, cypress much, sphagnum moss, or a mixture of the four.
Lighting and Temperature :
A UVA/UVB light is vital for tortoises that do not spend at least two hours outside in the sunlight every week Though not proven, coil style bulbs have sometimes caused to harm tortoise’s eyes and should never be used. There should be a basking spot that is 95 °F-100 °F, and the rest of the habitat should stay at least 75 °F (dry) or 80 °F (wet). An infrared heat emitter is a good option, preferably one that produces no light.[8]
Leopard Tortoise Lays Eggs! Kamp Kenan Bonus
A leopard tortoise eating moistened ZooMed grassland pellets and weeds in a small terra cotta plant saucer
Diet :
A wild leopard tortoise mostly eats a variety of grass and scrub, supplemented by succulents and fallen fruit. They meet their high calcium needs by chewing on bones and eating carnivore feces. In captivity, tortoises should be provided with a large variety of grass, weeds, and grocery store greens, in addition to an unbleached cuttlebone (which also helps keep the beak trim). They need greens high in fiber, rich in calcium, high in vitamin A, and with low protein. Growing a mix of grasses and weeds in chemical-free soil is the best option when possible.[9] Grocery store spring mix, collard greens, chard, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, radicchio, bok choy, kale, cactus pads, and other organic dark leafy greens are the best store-bought options. Lettuce, spinach, and succulents may also be fed in moderation as part of a varied diet. Small amounts of squash, zucchini, sweet pepper, and non-citrus fruits can be provided rarely, around once per month, although many experienced breeders recommend against it. A calcium and mineral supplement can be sprinkled on food weekly.[10]
Gallery :
One-month-old hatchling
Three baby leopard tortoises
Leopard tortoise on Azerbaijan stamp
Three adult leopard tortoises
Retracted forelegs of adult female Leopard tortoise
Closeup of scutes
Small 20-year-old leopard tortoise eating
Shell patterns fade in mature specimens
Videos :
Beautiful African Leopard Tortoise - Stigmochelys pardalis - Turtle - Reptiles
Baby Captive Bred Leopard Tortoises
Leopard Tortoise (Stigmochelys [Geochelone] pardalis)
The leopard tortoise is the second largest tortoise native to Africa. Only the African spurred tortoise is larger. Two subspecies are generally recognized.Stigmochelys pardalis babcocki is the most common species in the pet trade. It has a large natural range resulting in geographic variations in size, color and temperature tolerance. Stigmochelys pardalis pardalis is from South Africa and Namibia. S. p. pardalis can be distinguished from S. p. babcocki as it is generally darker in color, may not be as high domed and generally grows larger.
Without knowing the origin of a leopard tortoise, it is difficult to distinguish adults of the two species due to the geographic variations of S. p. babcocki. Hatchling tortoises of each species are generally distinguished based on the number of dark spots on each scute. S. p. babcocki generally have one black dot or no dots, while S. p. pardalis generally have two black dots on each scute.
It is possible additional species of leopard tortoises will be described. There is a giant variation native to Ethiopia and Somalia, which is currently classified asS. p. babcocki.
Leopard Tortoise Availability
Captive-bred leopard tortoises are generally available. Import of wild caught specimens into the United States was banned in 2000 due to concerns from a tick with heartwater disease found on wild specimens. Before the ban leopard tortoises were commonly imported, and many people currently breed leopard tortoises, however Stigmachelys pardalis pardalis is less common in collections than Stigmachelys pardalis babcocki.
Leopard Tortoise Size
Adult leopard tortoises measure from 10 to 18 inches long depending on the geographic origin and subspecies of the tortoise. The South African subspecies, Stigmachelys pardalis pardalis, may grow to 24 inches and the giants from Ethiopia and Somalia may approach 30 inches. Females often grow larger than males, however depending on the origin of the specimen this may be reversed, or male and females may be of similar size. Due to wide geographic variations there are no set standards. Males may always be distinguished from females by their concaved plastron and larger tail.
Leopard Tortoise Care Sheet :
courtesy to : www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Leopard-Tortoise/BY JERRY D. FIFE
Leopard tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis babcocki).
JERRY D. FIFE
Leopard Tortoise Life Span
Leopard tortoises live between 50 and 100 years in the wild.
Leopard Tortoise Caging
The preferred setup for adult leopard tortoises is outdoors. However, if you live in a climate too cold for such an enclosure, you may house the tortoise indoors. A pair of leopard tortoises can be kept in a 10 foot by 10 foot pen. The walls should be at least 18 inches high and may be made of wood, block or other material that prevents the tortoise from seeing through the wall. Leopard tortoises are not escape artists and do not climb, burrow, or display the aggressive breeding, biting and ramming that the Mediterranean species do. Multiple males and females may be kept together as they are not territorial like African spurred tortoises.
An outdoor enclosure should have a hide box and a variety of shrubs, grass or bushes to provide the tortoise with protection from the elements and a sense of security. A portion of the pen may be planted with grass or alfalfa for the tortoises to eat. Bare ground is also required because tortoises dig in the dirt to lay eggs. Some rolling terrain is recommended. Leopard tortoises often bask on slopes to maximize sun exposure or dig into slopes to lay eggs.
Adult leopard tortoises can be housed indoors in a stock tank, plastic pool or large tub. Although a pair of adult leopard tortoises could be maintained in an enclosure measuring 6 feet long, 4 feet wide and 1.5 feet tall, larger areas allow more time between cleaning and changing substrates. It is still recommended that the tortoise be housed outdoors when the weather permits.
If your leopard tortoise is only housed indoors at night or during brief winter periods, newspaper works as a substrate. For a permanent indoor enclosure, substrates such as grass clippings, peat moss or potting soil work well. Also include different microclimates, including a warm, moist hide box and dry area with a basking light. The size of the leopard tortoise also plays a role. Hatchlings are raised almost exclusively inside. This allows better monitoring of food intake, temperature control and protection from predators.
Leopard Tortoise Lighting and Temperature
Leopard tortoises do not hibernate. In parts of their range they may experience freezing temperatures and seek shelter in animal burrows, but in most of their range they experience a much narrower range of temperatures. Generally that’s between 70 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
For indoor care of a leopard tortoise, temperatures should be maintained between 75 and 90 degrees, with a basking spot of 95 degrees. Depending on the indoor air temperatures, a heat light may be required at night or during the day for the tortoise to thermoregulate and raise its temperature to optimal levels for digestion. Exposure to natural sunlight or UVB light plays an important role in how the body absorbs and uses calcium. UVB light or natural sunlight allows the tortoise to produce vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is critical to the tortoise in its ability to absorb and use the available calcium. UVB can be obtained from fluorescent tubes specially made for reptile use or from mercury vapor bulbs, which also provide some heat. If fluorescent tubes are used for UVB, a separate light may be required for heat.
In outdoor enclosures leopard tortoises may handle a wider range of temperatures, but once temperatures drop into the 50s at night or daily high temperatures fail to exceed 70 degrees, move tortoises indoors or provide heat. Heat may be provided with items such as ceramic heat emitters, infrared heat lights or “pig blankets” (a solid, flat piece of fiberglass with wire heating coils inside).
Respiratory problems may occur when a leopard tortoise gets chilled or is kept in suboptimal conditions. Minor problems may be corrected with increased temperatures. If not corrected, minor problems can progress to more serious conditions such as pneumonia. Signs of a respiratory problem include labored breathing, a nasal discharge, a gaping mouth, puffy eyes, lethargy and a loss of appetite.
Leopard Tortoise Food :
As grazers, leopard tortoises feed on a variety of grasses and vegetation. They require a high-fiber diet rich in calcium. In addition to grazing the captive diet may be supplemented a couple times a week with collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens and flowers, hibiscus leaves and flowers, grape leaves, escarole, mulberry tree leaves, spineless cactus pads (Opuntia spp.), carrots, zucchini, butternut squash, pumpkin, mushrooms, sweet potato, yellow squash, and bell peppers. Commercial diets may also be included in the diet.
A small portion of the leopard tortoise’s diet may include fruits, such as tomatoes, apples, papayas, cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mangos and bananas. Fruit should be no more than about 5 percent of the overall diet.
Although some tortoisekeepers supplement the diet with manufactured vitamins and vitamin D3, I have not found these necessary if the leopard tortoises are provided a varied diet and exposed to UVB light. Hatchlings should be fed daily and may benefit from food that is lightly sprinkled with calcium powder several times a week.
Leopard Tortoise Water:
Leopard tortoises readily drink standing water. A shallow water dish may be provided, but check it daily, and clean it as required. The size of the water dish doesn’t really matter, however it shouldn’t be too deep where the tortoise could get stuck in the dish. Hatchlings may be soaked once or twice a week in shallow, warm water. They drink and often defecate in the water while being soaked.
Leopard Tortoise Handling and Temperament :
Tortoises are not a pet for young children, and they should be handled infrequently. Leopard tortoises are shy and will withdraw their head and limbs. Over time, however, they generally learn to recognize their keepers and will come for food.
Breeding Leopard Tortoises and Egg Incubation :
Leopard tortoises are not aggressive, so multiple males and females may be kept together. Females may lay one to five clutches of eggs approximately four to six weeks apart. Eggs are laid at various times of the year based on the origin of the tortoise. Clutch size ranges from six to 20 eggs.
Place leopard tortoise eggs in a plastic shoebox for incubation on a substrate of potting soil, vermiculite, perlite or peat moss. Incubation temperatures may range from about 82 degrees to 89 degrees. Eggs of tortoises from some locations may benefit from a cooling period of 30 days or more at 65 to 70 degrees to break diapause and allow the embryo to start development. If you experience poor hatch rates, a cooling period is suggested. Incubation may take 150 to 400 days.
Videos : Leopard Tortoises care & breeding :
Leopard Tortoise Eggs - Part Two - Washing and Marking the Eggs
Leopard Tortoise Eggs-Part One - Digging Up the Eggs
Leopard Tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis) צב לאופרד
Leopard Tortoise Hatchlings (Stigmochelys Pardalis Babcocki)
Mating Leopard tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis)
Leopard Tortoise Eggs-Part Three - Preparing the Eggs for the Incubator
1- African Spurred Tortoise 2- Aldabra Tortoise 3- Leopard Tortoise4- Russian Tortoise 5- Sulcata Tortoise6-Red-Footed Tortoise7- Radiated Tortoise8- Pancake Tortoise 9- Hermann's Tortoise10-Marginated Tortoise11- Gopher Tortoise12- Greek Tortoise13- Galapagos Tortoise14- Elongated Tortoise15- Hingeback Tortoise16- Yellow Foot Tortoise 17- Desert Tortoise 18- Indian Star
1- African Spurred Tortoise 2- Aldabra Tortoise 3- Leopard Tortoise4- Russian Tortoise 5- Sulcata Tortoise6-Red-Footed Tortoise7- Radiated Tortoise8- Pancake Tortoise 9- Hermann's Tortoise10-Marginated Tortoise11- Gopher Tortoise12- Greek Tortoise13- Galapagos Tortoise14- Elongated Tortoise15- Hingeback Tortoise16- Yellow Foot Tortoise 17- Desert Tortoise 18- Indian Star