Centipedes Keeping :

How to Care for a Centipede

courtesy to : www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Centipede

The Terrarium :

Centipedes may be kept in screen-covered aquariums, but bear in mind that they are escape artists that can exert a tremendous amount of pressure and are able squeeze through impossibly-tiny openings. Their terrarium’s cover must be secured by 6-8 clips. Gallon jars with screw-on tops are an escape proof option. I do not recommend plastic terrariums with clip-on tops. Please see this article to read about an escape that occurred during my tenure at the Bronx Zoo.

Plastic caves, a deep substrate and cork bark shelters should be provided.

“Ant farm” style set-ups may allow you to watch your pets’ below-ground activities. A small aquarium placed upside down within a larger one will confine their burrowing activities to the area along the glass; please see article linked below.

Centipedes can be fascinating pets, but can be dangerous. They are strong and venomous to humans, though not deadly. In order to best care for a centipede, it’s important to find the right habitat for your centipede, feed your centipede, and be careful handling it. Caring for a centipede can be fun, but follow all precautions to keep your pet centipede for a long time.

METHOD ONE :

1- Finding the Right Habitat for Your Centipede

Find a safe and comfortable habitat. Centipedes are very strong and can sneak through small spaces, so it’s important to find a habitat that is difficult to escape from.

An aquarium or a large plastic container with a heavily secured top could.[1]

An aquarium can be a great place for your centipede. For a large centipede, choose a 20-gallon tank, and a 10-gallon tank for a small centipede. In both cases, make sure you have a screen lid with securing clips.[2]
You can also use a large plastic container to house your centipede. A 9-10-inch plastic tub with a secured lid and perforated top could work. However, be warned that it is possible for centipedes to chew through these tubs.

2-Keep your centipede at a reasonable temperature. Most centipedes can be kept at a safe temperature of roughly 80 degrees or higher. Additionally, centipedes need a humid environment of roughly 75%-85% humidity.[3]

You can use a heating pad, night bulbs or ceramic heaters to make sure their habitat is warm enough. You’ll should also worry keeping the humidity up for your centipede, however, since each of these methods could dry out your cage.
You can use a dish filled with water to keep their habitat humid enough. It will need to be regularly filled to maintain proper humidity.

3- Light your centipede’s habitat to suit its nocturnal state. Centipedes are nocturnal creatures, so they do not require special lighting. If you want to observe the centipede during the evening, you can get a nocturnal light, like those used for amphibians.[4]

Your centipede’s habitat should not be brightly lit. During the evening hours, their cage should be kept in a dimly lit area.
To observe your centipede during the evening, get a nocturnal light that gives off heat without much light. You can see the centipede, but it will still think it’s night in the habitat.[5]

4- Provide a healthy substrate for your centipede. Centipedes like to burrow during the day. It’s important to have substrate that is deep enough for your centipede to burrow underneath.[6]

The substrate should be at least as deep as the centipede is long. They prefer to be hidden away during the daytime hours.
You can use a variety of materials for your substrate. It should be able to retain moisture and tolerate the centipede’s burrowing. You can potting compost, peat moss, or soil for the substrate. Peat moss is the best since it prevents mold growth due to the habitat’s high humidity.

METHOD TWO :

Feeding Your Centipede

1- Feed your centipede properly. Centipedes like to eat live prey. Keep a regular supply of different live creatures for your pet centipede. They are fascinating to watch eat, since they are very quick and assertive when hunting.[7]

Feed your centipede at least twice a day. If there is any food left in their habitat after feeding, remove it with forceps from the habitat.
Your centipede can be injured if it has to fight its prey. Don’t give your centipede any live animals bigger than half the size of the centipede.

2- Feed your centipede insects. Smaller centipedes eat small insects, including fruit flies, carpet beetle larvae, and small crickets. As your centipede gets larger, you can give them cockroaches, adult crickets, and silverfish.

Your centipede needs to be able to safely hunt live prey. Insects give to the centipede should be smaller than your centipede.
Do not feed your pet centipede wild insects. Wild insects could have been in contact with pesticides that could be lethal to your centipede. Purchase small insects at a local feed or pet store.

3-Give your centipedes soft-bodied prey. Earthworms, slugs, and snails can work as live prey for your centipede. Be careful that the soft-bodied pretty has not been exposed to harmful chemicals.

Centipedes should be able to handle soft-bodied pretty easily. Only the smallest centipedes could have problems hunting an earthworm.
Buy soft-bodied pretty at a feed or pet store. You can usually get earthworms at a local fishing or tackle shop.

4- Provide your centipede with arachnids. Centipedes love to feed on live prey, and arachnids (spiders) are a favorite treat. Your centipede will use its venom to paralyze the spider before feeding on it.

Be sure any arachnid you provide your centipede is not venomous. Venomous spiders may hurt or even kill centipedes.[8]

5- Feed your centipede small animals. Very large centipedes can eat small animals, including mice, lizards, frogs, birds, snakes, or bats. Mice and frogs may be easiest to find and feed your centipede.

Use lizards and rats for a very large centipede. They should be able to use their venom to safely neutralize these animals and eat them.

You can also feed a giant centipede raw or cooked chicken, though it usually prefers to hunt animals.
Your centipede may not eat all prey. If it sits for 24 hours without being eaten, get rid of it to avoid rotting.[9]

6- Have water available for your pet centipede. Water provides centipedes with the right amount of humidity. It can be used by the centipede to stay hydrated. The water may come from a water dish or from everyday misting.[10]

Centipedes get most of their water from their food. However, a water dish is necessary to maintain the proper humidity level in their habitat.
Use enough water to keep your centipede from drying out. When they dry out, it is usually caused by loss of moisture through the spiracle openings

METHOD THREE :

Being Cautious with Your Centipede

1- Be careful when handling your centipede. Handle it so with thick gloves and tools used for manipulating snakes. Avoid handling your unless absolutely necessary.[11]

Centipede venom is not deadly to humans. It can cause many problems, including fevers, dizziness, and difficulty breathing. Additionally, their venom can also cause allergic reactions.
Use protective gloves if you must handle your centipede. Centipedes can be deceptively quick, so make sure your gloves cover enough of your arms as well.

2- Hold your centipede gently to avoid injuring it. Centipede’s bodies can be sensitive to being handled. Be careful to not squeeze it too hard or allow it to fall out of your hands.

Maintain a gentle, yet firm grip on your centipede. You want to be careful not to injure it, but you keep control of its movements.

3- Put it back in its habitat if your centipede is moving a lot. You can try to handle your centipede again when it has calmed down.

4-Treat centipede bites if they happen. Centipede bites are not usually fatal, but can be very painful. Ice them immediately to keep down the swelling. If necessary, consult a doctor.

Centipede bites consist of two puncture wounds with redness and swelling. They may occasionally cause headaches or dizziness as well.[12]
Wash out your centipede bite with warm water and soap. Ice the bite or use analgesic gel if the area is swollen.
If the bitten area does not stop hurting after a day or so, consult a doctor. See a doctor immediately if you have any other symptoms, including rapid heartbeat or a fever. You may be having an allergic reaction.

5-Don't put multiple centipedes in together. Centipedes do not do well with other centipedes in captivity. If you want to have multiple centipedes as pets, keep them in separate habitats.

Can you feed centipedes fruits and vegetables?

Centipedes will eat fruits and vegetables, though they are carnivores for the most part. If you have a pet centipede, it's important to feed them live prey as well so they get enough nutrients.

Which pet invertebrates are suitable for kids?

A centipede would not be a good pet for children. Children are more susceptible to centipede venom and it can be potentially fatal for them, especially if they have an allergy to centipede venom. Millipedes are not venomous and may be a better pet for children.

5 Vietnamese Centipede Facts & Care Tips

How to Care for Centipedes : How to Care for Centipedes

Centipedes

Giant Centipede Care, Feeding and Supplies…and Warnings!

Courtesy to : blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2013/09/16/giant-centipede-care-feeding-and-supplies-and-warnings

The serious centipede enthusiast can look forward to a lifetime of interest and discovery. Over 3,000 species (class Chilopoda) have been described so far, and we know little about most! Biologists place Centipedes and the world’s 10,000+Millipedes in the same Super Order, Myriapoda, but any similarities end there. The name “Giant Centipede” is applied to a variety of species. Those most commonly seen in trade are the Amazonian Giant Centipede (Scolopendra gigantean) and the Vietnamese or Red-headed Centipede (S. subspinipes), but as many as 6 species have been recorded as being sold under the same name.

Centipede ownership requires consideration, and should only be undertaken by mature, cautious adults. Bites from various species have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Allergic reactions to their venom can occur – as evidenced by a Bronx Zoo co-worker of mine, who was hospitalized after being bitten by a species considered to be harmless.

The following information can be applied to then the care of most commonly available centipedes. Please post below for information on individual species.

Natural History

Centipedes are found on all continents except Antarctica, and live in varied habitats, including deserts, grasslands, caves, temperate woodlands, rainforests and human dwellings. The true giants are confined to tropical regions.

All are voracious predators, with larger species sometimes taking bats, tarantulas, rodents and other sizable animals; please see this article for further information. When attacked, Centipedes release irritating secretions and can inflict wounds with their fangs (which are actually modified legs connected to venom glands) and pointed rear legs.

Centipedes have 15-30 pairs of legs. The Amazonian Giant Centipede, Scolopendra gigantea, is the largest species; females may top 12 inches in length.

Substrate :

The substrate should be 4-6 inches deep and comprised of coconut husk, peat moss and top soil. Plain coconut husk, as well as leaf litter and decaying wood, have also been used with success.

Light :

Red/black reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your pets’ nocturnal activities.

Heat :

Most do well at temperatures of 72-85 F; please post below for individual species’ details.

Red/black reptile night bulbs, ceramic heaters or heat pads can be used to warm the terrarium. All have a drying effect, so be sure to monitor humidity.

Humidity :

Centipedes are prone to dehydration and require humidity levels of approximately 75%. Humidity can be increased by misting, moistening the substrate, and partially covering the lid with plastic. Reptile misters and humidity gauges are useful in arid surroundings.

Companions :

Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

Feeding :

Centipedes will thrive on a diet of crickets, roaches and earthworms. Wild-caught insects may be offered to help balance the diet. They will also accept canned grasshoppers and snails via tongs, but be extremely careful when feeding in this manner. Mice are not required, even for the largest species.

Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Centipedes obtain water from their food, but should be provided with a shallow water bowl.

He (we assume he's a he) moves very fast when he wants to. Pretty in a slinky way.

Daily Care and Maintenance :

Centipedes remain below ground when molting, at which time high humidity levels are especially important.

Tiny white mites are often introduced to terrariums via substrate or food. Most are harmless scavengers that can be lured into a jar baited with fish flakes. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Long-handled tongs – never fingers – should be used to remove uneaten food and water bowls from Centipede terrariums.

Health Considerations :

Centipedes are fast-moving and high strung, and will strike at any disturbance or vibration. Please ignore the ridiculous online videos showing people handling Giant Centipedes.

Centipede bites have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Before keeping Centipedes, discuss the matter with your physician and make certain that treatment will be available if needed. Be sure to explain that species identification may be impossible (i.e.6 species have been sold under a single trade name, and some species exhibit an array of different colors).

Caring for Your New Red-Headed Centipede

courtesy to : aqualandpetsplus.com/Bug,%20Centipede

The inside scoop from Aqualand Pets Plus on Scolopendra sp.

Centipede Factoids :

Origin : Several places

Size : Probably four inches

Temp : 75o to 85o

Humidity : Needs high humidity

Water : Probably not necessary

Attitude : On the vicious side

Substrate : Damp, loose material

Security : Likes a hiding place

Foods : Likes live insects

Supplement : Occasional

Lighting : Immaterial

This evil-looking centipede grew from 1.5 inches to 3 inches in 2 months on a diet of crickets.

Origins: We’re not positive. Most of our southwestern U.S. states have their own version of these nasty critters. They also grow in Central America and Southeast Asia. We’re not sure where some of ours came from.

Lots of different centipedes make interesting critters to keep. They come from all over the world. They live under rocks and wood -- just like our Iowa centipedes. Our Iowa centipedes measure very small on the "pede" scale. We just step on ours.

Size: Some of the Texas red-headed centipedes approach a foot in length. (Naturally Texas takes credit for the biggest pedes.) Most pedes grow to three to five inches.

Foods: Red-headed centipedes greedily rip into crickets. They’ll probably eat any insect you give them. Don’t mix them with each other for obvious reasons. Also, pedes need a variety of foods – not just crickets.

Supplements: If you can’t provide a varied menu, you’ll need to occasionally dust your crickets with vitamins or gut-load them with a vitamin supplement. Centipedes fed a single food will live a very short life. When you get right down to it, crickets live a short life no matter what.

Lighting: Since centipedes work the night shift, they need no special lighting.

Heat: All red-headed centipedes come from very warm regions. They prefer 80o or better. Put a heating pad under their terrarium.

African black-headed centipede. Note the red tail.

Substrate: Keep their cage medium damp (not wet). Centipedes need a damp substrate to maintain the high humidity they need. Use peat moss, shredded bark, coconut husks, or any comparable material. Avoid pine and cedar.

Security: Obviously these guys crawled out from under a rock. A flat piece of bark will work fine. Or a rock. Whatever you put in your centipede's cage, he will crawl under it. Keep it simple enough to clean.

Couple of Vietnamese centipedes in their original shipping containers.

Décor: Red-headed centipedes could not care less. However, most pede keepers like their cages to look good.

Water: Since centipedes live atop a moist media and eat gooey insects, they probably need no water dish. We do recommend a light, daily misting.

Mixers? Forget about it. Centipedes enjoy consuming each other.

Handling? Don’t be stupid. Red-headed centipedes will never be found in a petting zoo. They bite – every time.

Allergies? If bee stings affect you adversely, never bring a red-headed centipede into your house.

Kids? If you have children in the house, do not bring home a red-headed centipede. They are not a child’s pet. Kids cannot resist the impulse to touch them – except girls, which are smarter.

Tameable: NO. You can’t train a centipede.

Breeding: Unknown. Not likely in your home, since centipedes eat each other.

Growth: Like other arthropods, centipedes shed their skins as they grow.

They slow down and lose their appetites before they molt. Pedes then eat their skin – usually before you see it. Pedes replace missing legs and other parts during these molts.

We have to give the Nasty Award to this six-inch Vietnamese centipede. Do not touch.

A five-inch Vietnamese centipede.

In Summary: All of a sudden, we’re seeing an increase in the availability of strange bugs. We hope you enjoy the little creepy crawlers as much as we do. One man's pests is another man's pets (and you can quote me).

6-inch Vietnamese centipede. Not a pede for beginnewrs.

Another Vietnamese centipede at lunch.

Vivarium & Terrarium Creatures ..