Pigeon showing :

Pigeon fanciers from many different countries exhibit their birds at local, inter-state or national shows and compete against one another for prizes.[1] One typical country show in Australia in 2008 had hundreds of pigeons on display and prizes for the winners.[7] In England, the Philoperisteron Society conducted annual shows in the mid 1800s. There were also a London Columbarian Society. The extensive variations in the breeds attracted the attention of Charles Darwinand played a major role in developing ideas on evolution.[8][9]

Some fanciers organize exhibitions exclusively for pigeons; one held in Blackpool run by the Royal Pigeon Racing Association is annually attended by about 25,000 people and generates around £80,000 profit, which is donated to charity.[10]

Fancy pigeon :

Introduction :

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Back to ... Pet Birds Guide :

Vivarium & Terrarium Creatures ..

Fancy pigeons are domesticated varieties of the rock dove. They are bred by pigeon fanciers for various traits relating to size, shape, color, and behavior,[1] who often exhibit their birds at pigeon shows, fairs and other livestock exhibits.[2]

There are about 800 pigeon breeds; considering all regional varieties all over the world there may be 1100 breeds.[3]The European list of fancy pigeons alone names about 500 breeds.[4] No other domestic animal has branched out into such a variety of forms and colours.[5]

Charles Darwin is known to have crossbred fancy pigeons, particularly the Ice Pigeon, to study variation within species,[6]this work coming three years before his groundbreaking publication, On the Origin of Species.

Colour pigeons :

Most of these pigeons originate in Germany, and are sometimes listed as German Toys. There are many different varieties, with a wide selection of colours and markings.

The largest pigeon show is held in Nuremberg: the German National Pigeon Show, which had over 33,500 pigeons at the 2006 show.[11]

In the United States, there are hundreds of local, state and national pigeon clubs that sponsor shows. The largest shows are the National Young Bird Show, held in Louisville, Kentucky in October, and the National Pigeon Association's Grand National, held in a different city each year and usually in January.

Major breed families of fancy pigeon :

This grouping system is adapted from Australian Fancy Pigeons National Book of Standards.[12] Consideration was given to the new UK standards book which followed the German and European grouping. This version differs slightly from that of the European grouping; the following system is arbitrary and used solely for organizing breed articles until a grouping can be accepted worldwide.

Asian feather and voice pigeons:

This group includes breeds developed for extensive feathering that originated in the Asian region, as well as breeds cultivated for their trumpeting, or laughing, voice.

-Fantail

-Frillback

-Jacobin

-Lahore

-Trumpeter

-English Trumpeter

A Fantail attempting to make itself appear larger

Danish Suabian

Frills and Owls :

The word "frill" here relates to the reversed feathering on the chest of these varieties. This group is also noted for having short beaks.

Homer and Hen Pigeons :

Homing pigeons

This group includes breeds originally developed for their homing ability, and includes show-type racing pigeons.

In the long search for the right food, I ended up with NATURAL of Belgium. In former times, I learned NATURAL during my contacts with many racing pigeon fanciers. Remember that the Belgian racing pigeon is well known over the whole world. It’s deep in my mind, that when I met them, they were always proud of their products of NATURAL. They automatically putted their thumbs upwards.

Pouters and Croppers:

This group includes breeds developed for the ability to inflate their crops.

German Beauty Homer

An African Owl

A Pigmy Pouter

Exhibition Tumblers :

This group originally consisted of flying/tumbler breeds, but has now been refined to include only purely ornamental/exhibition breeds.

Crested Helmet

Flying Tumblers and Highfliers :

Main article: Flying/Sporting pigeons

This group is dual purpose in that its members can be shown, but also retain acrobatic or sporting ability and can therefore be used in flying competitions. Flying tumbler varieties belong in this group. Although many varieties in this grouping have become primarily show varieties, they are still expected to display characteristics of performing birds.[12]

Tippler (Light print)

Utility pigeons:

This group includes breeds originally developed as sources of meat.

A red Carneau

The best care and treatement for our fancy pigeons!

courtesy to : www.gentsekropper.be With cooperation with Natural pigeon foods

Proper daily care with the best nutrition is wanted if you want to be successful in the pigeon world. Proper nutrition and care result in strong and vital animals. It prevents us from a lot of diseases and problems.

Not properly feeding is one of the biggest mistakes that breeders can make. The secret of many top breeders often lies in how they feed their animals. As a reputable breeder, I would like to share you my experiences and views on nutrition and care.

Today, it’s possible to choose through a variety of brands and numerous types of food. Fortunately most brands have separate production lines designed fancy pigeons.

It’s a fact that the fancy pigeon breeders can still learn much from racing pigeon breeders. Remember that many things that are good for racing pigeons are in most cases also good for our fancy pigeons. It is also true that many breeds of fancy pigeons (e.g. pouters) in terms of nutrition are a lot more demanding then racing pigeons.

NATURAL is deeply involved with the racing pigeon sport. In addition to producing great food and products, NATURAL also exploited "the breeding station".

Here, NATURAL successfully breeds thousands of young racing pigeons that are sold at friendly prices around the world. All visitors of this breeding station remark easily the fact that all pigeons have an outstanding condition and health. This can according to experts only be achieved by giving the appropriate nutrition and care. This proofs the effect and quality of NATURAL and its products.

In the breeding station, there are also fancy pigeons housed. Thanks to their presence NATURAL could design three types of feeders for fancy pigeons with extra quality. These feeders have in common that they exists of only small grains, legumes (corn, peas, etc) and seeds are provided. That’s why pigeons are very happy to eat it. They are the ideal feeders to provide to pouters. Croppers and pouters can much more easily feed the smaller grains to their young pigeons!

Natural also publish magazines. They are spread worldwide and consist with all kinds of information about the pigeon sport. As with most things, information is a very important factor. Real breeders do want to be up-to-date about everything involving their hobby.

The brothers Noel and Robert De Scheemaecker published their first edition of their pigeon magazine in November 1930.

Natural, founded in 1936, sells its products worldwide in 44 countries. They have played an important role in the evolution of the racing pigeon and the reputation of the Belgian pigeons in the world.

The opening of specialized and modern "Pigeons shops" in China proofs their outstanding professionalism and good name. Since October 1998, grain mixtures and complementary products are sold in China by Natural. China is the country in the world with the largest number of pigeon breeders (350,000).

The company NATURAL has always been a family business and it still is like that. Since the startup, the company is owned and operated by people who live between pigeons. The love for birds but also the experience and knowledge of pigeon manifests itself naturally in their products. You can best describe them as professionals or "specialists" in the production of pigeon products. As specialists in pigeons, it is therefore obvious that they only produce products for pigeons.

Since I use all their products, I enjoy my pigeons much more because they "shine", they are much brighter as before. The feather quality is simply optimal. It may sound crazy but since I use the NATURAL products, I even love more my animals. This is my big secret as top breeder: the love for my birds!

Proper daily care of animals means more then to give them just water, food and minerals. It goes beyond the daily provision of the basic diet consisting of cereals, legumes and seeds. This basic diet should be primarily "balanced" and supply good digestive benefits. Variation in diet is the key to success. In the pigeon year (the breeding season, the moulting and rest, the exhibition period), our pigeons are in need of various products. These all have their own important role and contribute in their own way contribute to the development of a strong and healthy stock.

TIP: The provision of these products at fixed times daily brings peace and regularity in the animals their lives. This regularity also provides a good "balance" and has a beneficial effect on the digestive tracts.

The following are the most important thing to me a proper feeding and care of:

- Necessary basic food (cereals legumes and seeds).

- Vitamins

- Minerals

- Natural products (herbs and plant extracts)

- Products for better hygiene

- Personal contributions for supplementary feeding!

Fortunately, all these products are provided by Natural, and all in top quality. Natural offers something for everyone.

Thanks to Natural with a particular family The Scheemaecker.

How to care for and raise your pigeons episode 1: feeding and trapping pigeons

King Pigeon Yuzu (wearing pants) with his adopter Shae

How to care for and raise your pigeons episode 2: cleaning the loft

How to care for and raise your pigeons episode 3: water jug

How to care for and raise your pigeons episode 4: Distance Training

How To: Keeping Pigeons

Pigeons As Pets: Outside or Indoors

courtesy to : www.pigeonrescue.org/birds/pigeons-doves-as-pets/

Pet lovers are embracing the joys of adopting dogs and cats from shelters in ever greater numbers, but few people realize how many birds there are in shelters and rescues needing to be adopted.

Pigeons Make Great Pets — And They Need Our Help

I started Palomacy (originally named MickaCoo Pigeon & Dove Rescue) in San Francisco, CA when I discovered domestic (unreleasable) pigeons were being killed in shelters for lack of homes. Pigeons such as Kings, Fantails, Tumblers and Homers are smart, beautiful and gentle birds. They’ve been selectively bred and tamed and, while they can’t survive in the wild, they thrive as pets. Many pigeons (and other birds as well) wind up in animal shelters, either surrendered or found as strays, but they need adopters to get out alive.

Pigeons make great pets both indoors as part of the family or outside in a rodent and predator-proof aviary.

Adopter Helen and her flock of six pigeons are very happy with their aviary

Pigeons as Pets in an Outdoor Aviary :

Rescued pigeons can’t be safely flown (they are easy targets for hawks and cats) and so, when outside, must be protected in an aviary. It needs to be predator-proof (sturdy and securely built all the way around including top and bottom), rodent-proof (use 16 gauge or better hardware mesh with openings half inch or smaller) and include a sheltered corner that will stay shady on the hottest days and dry during the rainiest. No one has ever wished for a smaller aviary so make it as big as possible. Minimum size for four birds would be at least 6 feet long by 4 feet deep and 6 feet high.

Pigeons excel at the leisure arts and spend their time bathing, preening, lounging in the sun, foraging for favorite seeds, watching the sky, napping, showing off and courting. Every four to five weeks, mated couples will lay a pair of eggs (which need to be replaced with fake eggs for pigeon birth control) and take turns sitting on them. Pigeons are extremely devoted to their family and mate for life. They require fresh food and water and a quick poop-scrape daily and a thorough aviary cleaning weekly. Pigeons are beautiful, peaceful and full of personality. With time and attention, most can be hand-tamed. All can be befriended. It’s easy to create a charming, attractive and safe aviary for rescued pigeons.

West of England Tumblers Beau & Cher are devoted mates

Pigeons as Indoor Pets

Pigeons can also live inside with the family. They need a big cage for their home base (a double-flight cage or an extra large dog kennel is a good size for a pair) with daily out-of-cage time to stretch their legs and wings and have some fun. They’ll walk around more than fly and will pick out some favorite spots for hanging out. Pigeons are smart, easy going birds that quickly learn household routines. They do fine in homes with other pets and can live peacefully and unafraid with dogs and cats as long as they are kept safe. Pigeons are very emotional and do need a BFF, whether another bird or a human with whom they can spend the day. (Home all alone in a cage isn’t a good life for a pigeon.)

Janelle & Beep chat up Petey & Pineapple in their double-flight cage

Using Pigeon Pants for Indoor Birds:

The main inconvenience to having pigeons as indoor pets is probably their droppings. Healthy pigeon poop is odorless and not too hard to manage with hardwood or tile floors or with strategic placement of liners. Pigeons can also be potty trained or they can wear pigeon pants! Pigeon pants are adorable little harnesses with a diaper to catch droppings. The pants are easy to put on and pigeons tolerate them well. Once dressed, they can walk and fly around the house and sit on laps and shoulders poop-free. The diaper, lined with half a panty-liner, should to be changed every 3 hours.

E. coli (Collibacillosis) :

Cause: This disease, which is now though to be more prevalent in pigeons than once suspected, is caused by gram negative bacteria's which can invade our lofts through infected dust particles, rodent droppings, and trough infected pigeon droppings coming into contact with eggs in the nest. Infected adult pigeons will emit the bacteria throughout a pigeon loft.

Symptoms: Since the E. coli bacteria can manifest themselves in any part of the pigeon's body, symptoms can be diverse. Most often young will die in the nest, adult birds will become listless and lose weight, and their droppings will become loose, mucous, and greenish-yellow in appearance. Sometimes the droppings will have a foul odor. Occasionally some birds may have nasal discharges and respiratory problems associated with this disease.

Prevention - Maintaining good loft hygiene and keeping rodents away from feed and water are very important. Also keeping dust and ammonia levels down will help to control any outbreaks. General Antibiotics: Any fancier would be well advised to have a good general antibiotic in his medicine chest. They can be useful as "first choice" drugs if and when problems occur. General antibiotics are effective against a broad range of both gram positive and negative bacteria. But excessive use of them can really damage the microflora of the bird, therefore most veterinarian suggest a use of Improver as it is called 'green antibiotic' and will have the same effect that any anitbiotic, but will leave the good bacterias and keep the balance of the pigeon intact.

Frances flirting with his teddy bear

Share the Word: Pigeons Need and Deserve Good Homes

I absolutely adore hearing my pet pigeon Frances pitter-pattering around the house on his little pink feet. He’ll do his own thing for a while (lounging in the sun or strutting in front of a mirror) and then come looking for me and always brings me a smile when he comes.

There are lots and lots of beautiful, sweet, innocent domestic pigeons like Frances in need of homes. Lacking survival skills, they cannot be released into the wild and, if they aren’t adopted, they are killed. Please share this story with everybody you know. Most people are completely unaware of the plight of birds in shelters.

are completely unaware of the plight of birds in shelters.

If you’d like to adopt, please complete our online adoption application.

Please visit our Donate Page to see the ways that you can help support this unique effort.

Click here to download our flyer about adopting pigeons and doves.

The birds and I thank you!

Basic Care of Pigeons :

courtesy to : www.fancypigeons.co.za/html/basic_care_of_pigeons

This advice is for anyone that has any interest in keeping pigeons or has found a lost pigeon

People that find pigeons need to know:
(1) Fresh water must be made available - A small bowl (coffee cup size) will suffice;
(2) The pigeon will eat any type of bird seed or grain.
(3) A small wire cage or well ventilated box will work fine for temporary housing.
(4) You need not be afraid to handle the found pigeon - The worst you can do is ruffle feathers and pigeons don't bite!

What to do if you find a lost pigeon.

Water
Most lost birds are hungry and thirsty. Water is necessary before all else. Since pigeons drink by suction, any water container should be at least 2.5 cm deep. An open container, i.e., a dish, an old margarine container tub, etc., is best. While a thirsty bird may drink immediately, it also may not. A bird which has gone without water for a while may be so exhausted; it doesn't even realize that water is in front of it, especially if the water container you use is different from what it is familiar with. A trick is to trickle a few drops of water from a higher level into the container to make a splashing sound. When they hear that, most birds will invariably head to drink.

Food
Pigeons are grain eaters. While park pigeons will eat bread, most domestic birds have been raised on a multi-grain mixture and have never seen a slice of it. In fact, they would likely ignore it as possible food. Instead of bread, you might try feeding them something else from around the house. Popcorn (maize), rice, split peas, barley, buckwheat (kasha), canary seed, etc., are all good first options to feed a lost bird with. THESE GRAINS SHOULD NOT BE COOKED OR POPPED BUT FED RAW. Water should also be provided since pigeons normally drink immediately after eating.

What Should I Keep It In?
Any container that a dog or cat can't get into will be fine. An old bird cage will hold the pigeon for a day or so with no problem, as will a cardboard box - a screen on top of such a box is better than simply closing the flaps since there will then be enough light for the bird to see to eat and drink.

Finding the bird's owner.
If the bird has a band on its leg, the owner can sometimes be traced through one of the national pigeon organizations. However, this is often not even necessary. After twenty-four to forty-eight hours rest with food and water, most homing pigeons are more than capable of finding their way home on their own. Simply release the bird in an area free of wires or other obstacles and it will usually head home immediately. NEVER try to attach a note to the owner by rubber banding it to the bird's leg. This merely cuts off the leg's blood circulation and often leads to gangrene and amputation of the limb. If you do want to attach a small note, tie it carefully to the middle two tail feathers.

Pigeon Diseases :

courtesy to : www.northstardoves.com/pages/pigeon-diseases

- Canker (Trichomoniasis)

Cause: The most common pigeon disease found. It is usually transmitted through drinking water and through parents feeding there young.

Symptoms: Infected birds show a reduction in activity, ruffled feathers, loss of weight, increased water intake, and diarrhea. Cheesy yellowish deposits can often be observed in the mouth or throat. In advanced stages a stringy mucous and putrid odor can be detected in the mouth. Young birds are most susceptible to Canker.

Prevention - Control stress with half dosage of Improver and AntiFungal, this will control the stress to 0 in the birds.

-Maintain regular feed and withering schedules

-Sanitize waterers regularly

-Isolate and observe any newly acquired birds for several weeks

-Administer an anti-canker drug or Improver on a regular basis throughout the year. Veterinary recommendations vary from once every three months to once a month. This will depend upon incidence and susceptibility in your own flock.

- Coccidiosis :

Cause: This highly infection and very common disease is caused is caused by a protozoan that infects the intensities of our birds. It usually present to some degree in all pigeons, but most adult birds have developed enough immunity to the disease to remain healthy. Most often infected are young pigeons or birds that have been subjected to severe stress (i.e., racing, showing, lack of feed/water, or relocation). Adult birds may become infected from drinking unclean water or from being in contact with moist droppings.

Symptoms: Infected birds have little or no desire to eat or drink, will remain puffed up on perches, lack any desire to move and often close their eyes. Droppings are usually very loose, greenish in color and may become very watery. Loss of weight occurs, and death can occur in young birds.

Prevention - Use Improver and AntiFungal, keep lofts dry and sanitary. Do not allow feed to come into contact with droppings, and regularly disinfect drinkers. Do not allow birds to drink from gutters or mud puddles, and keep feed and water free from contact with rodents. Always isolate new birds as described earlier, as they are a primary target for the spread of coccidiosis. Returning race birds should be given a preventive treatment shortly after their return, especially if out over night. Baskets should be disinfected weekly.

Salmonellosis (Paratyphoid)

Cause: This very common and quite widespread is caused by a gram-negative bacterium which is flagellated, therefore mobile. It can be brought into a loft either through introduction of infected pigeons, by rodents, through inhalation of infected dust, on the soles of fanciers shoes, by roaches, or through contact with wild pigeons. Often an adult bird that has overcome the disease remains a carrier and continues to produce infected droppings.

Symptoms: Salmonella flagellates can be found throughout the body in severely infected birds. Thus, a variety of symptoms is possible. Most adult birds will show rapid weight loss, along with somewhat loose, greenish droppings. Some birds may develop swelling in the leg joints or feet, or may develop wing boils. Other birds may have the "twisted neck" syndrome commonly associated with PMV. Baby birds will often show labored breathing or die in the nest before the second week after hatching. Another symptom young dying in the egg.

One-Eye Colds:

Cause: Often confused with the onset of mycoplasmosis, one - eye colds are usually associated with a peck in the eye or some other type of physical injury affecting the eye. One-eye colds can also be caused by improper ventilation, drafts or dampness in the loft.

Symptoms: A watery or mucous discharge in only one eye is usually the symptom most commonly noticed, but occasionally both eyes will have watery appearances. Sometimes one eye can become completely shut, depending upon the degree of infection.

Prevention - Maintaining proper ventilation and not allowing overcrowded conditions to manifest themselves in our lofts will go a long way in preventing one-eye colds. It is also considered good loft hygiene to keep dust levels to a minimum, as many types of infectious bacteria are carried by dust particles.

Prevention - Loft hygiene is critical, because salmonella flagellates can live in the droppings for some time. But once AntiFungal and Improver are given in the drinking water of the pigeons, the droppings will stop being infected with salmonella.Regular cleaning and disinfecting of lofts, feeders and drinkers is imperative. Minimizing contact with rodents, roaches and wild birds, quarantining newly acquired birds, and maintaining an acid pH level below 4.0 thanks to Improver in our lofts are all helpful steps in keeping this disease under control. Several veterinarians have recommended the use of Nolvasan disinfectant together with Improver at one teaspoon per gallon (4.5 liters) of drinking water regularly to help maintain an acidic environment in the droppings. Regular use of the Improver against salmonella has proven to be especially effective

An after race mix that quickly restores fluids and minerals lost from stressful exertion. Composition: . Potassium Chloride; Malto Dextrin; Sucrose; Sodium; Chloride; Zince Sulfate; Manganese Sulfate; Ferrius Sulfate Calcium Propionate; Orange Flavoring; Mineral Oil Dosage and Administration: . 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon of drinking water upon return from race to restore electrolyte

Paramyxovirus :

Causes and symptoms: Paramyxovirus or PMV-1 is a viral infection unique to pigeons and is extremely contagious, especially in the racing sport where hundreds or thousands of birds are mixed and confined prior to release. Direct contact or indirect contact through contaminated feed, water or litter can spread the disease. Symptoms include extremely loose, watery droppings, lack of appetite, ruffled feathers poor coordination, and sometimes paralysis of wings and legs. In advanced stages, birds will show "twisted neck" symptoms and many birds will die.

Prevention - Currently in the U.S and Europe, the only effective means of protection is by vaccination with the Maine Biological oil-adjuvant PMV-1 vaccine. Many fanciers are using the LaSota vaccine, thinking that they are protecting their birds, but challenge tests using LaSota vaccine was not effective in producing antibodies for the pigeon PMV-1 virus. While the LaSota vaccine was effective for short duration protection for Newcastle's disease, this disease is almost non-existent in pigeons and should be differentiated fromPMV-1.

Pigeon Pox :

Pigeon pox is caused by a virus belonging to the poxvirus group, a group of viruses that cause disease in many species. The avipoxvirus subgroup includes a number of closely related viruses such as fowl pox, pigeon pox and canary pox.

There are two clinical forms of pigeon pox, probably associated with different sources of infection. The most common method of transmission results from mosquito bites. Obviously, the resultant lesions will appear on featherless areas of the body, e.g. on the eyelids, around the beak and occasionally elsewhere on the body. The lesions start as small papules and gradually progress to a wart-like thick dark scab. Eventually the scabs will fall off and complete healing generally takes place within four weeks of infection. This form of the disease is seldom life-threatening and is often more of a nuisance in racing pigeons as it results in a break in the training program.

The second form of pigeon pox is probably due to droplet (aerosol) infection and involves the mucous membranes of the mouth, pharynx, larynx and trachea. This is often referred to as the wet form of pigeon pox as the lesions on the mucous membranes are soft and cheesy in nature. This is a far more serious form of the disease. Affected pigeons appear very sick, stop eating, have difficulty in breathing and generally lose a lot of weight. Mortality mostly results from asphyxiation due to blockage of the respiratory tract by the necrotic material or else from secondary bacterial infections with the formation of toxins.

Occasionally a mixed form may occur with cutaneous scabs as well as soft lesions in the respiratory or even the intestinal tract. This mixed form is more common in racing pigeons and may be due to the presence of predisposing conditions. The crowding of racing pigeons in baskets often leads to fighting with resultant skin lesions which will allow entry of virus. The very close contact between such pigeons will also facilitate contact transmission resulting in the cutaneous as well as the mucosal form.

To control pigeon pox, exposure to biting insects such as mosquitoes should be minimised or prevented. However, this is hardly possible especially during the racing season. The only practical alternative is to immunise pigeons before they can become naturally infected.

Vaccination, in most instances, amounts to controlled exposure of pigeons to field strains of virus by applying the virus to a part of the body where least damage would result. Squabs five weeks or older should be immunised. The directions for use described in the package insert that accompanies the vaccine should be carefully followed. There are basically two methods of vaccine application. In the one (scratch method) a hypodermic needle (supplied in the package) is dipped into the vaccine and one or two scratches made in the skin of the breast. This method requires some skill - if the scratch is too superficial, the virus will not "take" and no local lesion will develop. Should the scratch be too deep and a fair amount of blood exudes from the wound, the vaccine is flushed out, with no resultant "take". In the absence of a local lesion there is no certainty that the pigeon will develop immunity. This method is very popular with most pigeon fanciers but the immunity following vaccination is often variable as a result of the variable percentage of "takes".

The most effective method is the so-called "follicle method". About five feathers are plucked out on the lower leg and vaccine applied by means of a brush that has been dipped into the vaccine. Follicular lesions develop within 7-10 days and although the lesions may look unsightly for a few days, they disappear completely after 2-3 weeks. The general health of such vaccinated pigeons is not affected but the resultant immunity is of high quality and good duration.

From time to time complaints are received about the efficacy of the vaccine and suggestions are made about possible mutations in field virus leading to incomplete protection by the vaccine. It is highly unlikely that the failures can be ascribed to genetic mutations. Poxviruses in general are genetically very stable, and unlike influenza viruses are not prone to continuous genetic variation.

However, MEDPET will soon be conducting trials in cooperation with Dr Baltus Erasmus, a veterinary virologist from Deltamune, to compare field isolates of pigeon pox virus with the strain that is currently employed in the vaccine. Should the results indicate significant differences a new candidate will be selected to replace the current vaccine strain. MEDPET is looking into the possibility of supplying a brush with Medipox vaccine in future to enable users to utilise the follicle methods of vaccination.

Adeno Virus :

Cause and Symptoms: Only birds whose immune systems are suppressed are vulnerable to this disease. There are two types of Adeno Virus that infect pigeons. Type 1 affects young pigeons primarily and causes vomiting and diarrhea, from which many birds recover. Type 2 is contracted by older pigeons and strikes the liver, with most affected birds dying within 24 hours. Some birds display a fluid yellow diarrhea and vomiting before death. But the main sign is sudden death, occurring within 24 hours of the onset. None of the affected birds live longer than 48 hours. E. coli often accompanies Type 1 ( which is associated with young pigeons ) and complicates the infection, making the diarrhea and vomiting more severe and adding respiratory symptoms. This Type 1 Adeno Virus/E. coli sometimes successfully treated with antibiotics. Cases that are the best managed are those in which the loft environment is good and in which all secondary diseases like canker and coccidiosis are treated so that birds are best able to fight the virus.

Prevention - Adeno virus is always present in a young bird, and it erupts when the immune system or fails. It is important to wait until the 12-th week for any type of vaccination. There is currently no vaccine that is proven to be effective against Adeno Virus. It's also important to keep stress in the loft at a minimum with AntiFungal and Improver and to boost pigeons' general health with vitamin supplements that are already included in Pigeon Vitality products, etc

Pigeon Malaria

Cause: This fairly common pigeon disease is caused by a protozoan that attacks the red blood cells of our birds. It is primarily carried by the pigeon fly, which acts as the intermediate host. Random tests of pigeon flocks have shown as much as a 30% malaria rate.

Symptoms: Symptoms are vague. Except for some loss of gloss in plumage and reduced performance in racing events, there are no readily visible symptoms.

Prevention - Since the pigeon fly is the primary carrier of this disease, it is imperative that these flies be controlled. It' important to quarantine newly acquired birds, dust or dip birds after they have mingled with others, and eliminate contact wild pigeons, because curing this disease is very difficult
Drinking fountain-Cleaning brush The cleaning brush is very flexible and handy. For the inside cleaning of glass drinking fountain in all sizes.

Respiratory infections - Mycoplasmosis & Ornithosis

Cause: These diseases all fall into the infectious bacterial category. Coryza is actually the descriptive term used to identify the thick mucous discharges usually associated with both Mycoplasmosis catarrh and Ornithosis. The bacteria ( termed Chlamydia in the case of Ornithosis ) lodge in the upper respiratory tract and can be extremely hard to completely eradicate. Often, infected birds never completely recover. Although their external symptoms may disappear, they can remain carriers for life.

Symptoms: The classic symptoms of respiratory infections include mucous in the throat, open beak and heavy breathing, rasping or gurgling while breathing, watery discharge from eyes, sometimes associated with swelling in the eye area. Other symptoms include discharge from the nasal area. and occasionally air sac swelling or crop swelling as torn air sacs trap air under the skin. As is usually the case with pigeons, other diseases can quickly manifest themselves when birds are in distress, so other symptoms can occur, such as loose, greenish droppings and loss of weight. Most often the only noticeable difference in our birds will be their unwillingness to fly or their complete failure in the racing events. Respiratory infections are the most damning it racing fanciers because many populations are carriers of the disease in one form or another, and symptoms are hard to identify. But results will definitely be diminished.

Prevention - The most important aspects in controlling respiratory infections are adequate ventilation without drafts, keeping dust and ammonia levels low ( which means keeping droppings from accumulating ) and controlling dampness and overcrowding Since tests have indicated that in some areas as much as 70% of the wild pigeon population is either infected with or carries respiratory disease, it would be wise to limit contact with feral birds. Since sporadic drug treatment at inadequate levels can cause rapid resistance to medication, always treat with effective drugs for the recommended length of time. Proper quarantining of new birds is also a must.

Worm Diseases:

Cause: The most common worms found in pigeons today are roundworms hair worms, stomach wall worms, gapeworms, stromglylids and tapeworms.

Symptoms: - The symptoms vary with the type of infestation, and conceivably pigeons can live with slight infestations and show no ill effects. Severe infestations generally cause droopiness, loss of weight and some diarrhea. Gapeworms can cause breathing problems. The best way to determine if a worm problem exists is to have the droppings checked.

Prevention - Clean, sanitary lofts are most beneficial to keeping worms in check, but since pigeons often mingle with many hundreds of other birds, a bird can become infested through ingestion of worm eggs from the basket or through contact with stray pigeons. Therefore, it is advisable to develop a preventative worming program in which all birds are wormed at least twice a year.

External Parasites:

The most common external parasites that effect coop birds are feather lice, red mites, pigeon flies, and mosquitoes. Since parasites can occur in almost any climate, they must be accounted for when planning a loft strategy.

Feather lice chew holes into the flights or cause other types of visible damage to the birds feathers. This can disqualify or reduce the points of a show pigion, or can significantly reduce a racing pigeon's performance.

The common red mite can be a real problem in some lofts if it becomes established. They are nocturnal and come out at night to feed on the blood of birds. Besides being a nuisance and not allowing the flock to rest properly, they can help to spread diseases.

The pigeon fly is probably the most dangerous parasite that can attack birds. It lives most of its life on birds, leaving only to lay its eggs somewhere in the loft. Pigeon flies bite the birds often, and besides causing considerable discomfort, they can be a major cause of pigeon malaria.

Mosquitoes would have to be considered the next worst parasite, simply because they are found in almost all climates. They are the most common carrier of the pigeon pox virus.

There are numerous precautions you can take within bird lofts to help control external parasites. In the case of lice, pigeon flies, and even mites, this mostly involves controlling their numbers by quarantining any new birds, and dipping or dusting the birds with pesticides. By keeping our lofts clean, we can eliminate many of the places where mites and flies can hide their eggs.

Diarrhea :

Sometimes our birds develop diarrhea, often just after medication treatments or high stress, so we wonder how they could be sick when we have just treated them. Often, the birds aren't actually sick, but they do have the loose droppings of sick birds because of the chemical imbalance created by the loss of the lactobacillus bacteria or " friendly bacteria " which inhabit our pigeon's gut and help the digestive process. By using AntiFungal together with Improver you will reduce the stress dramatically and the good bacterias will stay protected in the pigeons which will keep the microflora perfectly in shape. The guts and digestive process will act normal naturally.