Simple and beginner projects :
HOW TO MAKE A FAKE ROCK BACKGROUND:
VIVARIUMS BACKGROUNDS Part 1 of 2 :
courtesy to : www.joshsfrogs.com
This how-to guide will walk you through the steps of making an easy to construct, durable, light weight, and convincing fake rock background for your terrarium or vivarium. The resulting display will provide years of enjoyment for both you and your pets. All of the materials are easily attainable at your local home improvement and craft stores.
This how-to guide will walk you through the steps of making an easy to construct, durable, light weight, and convincing fake rock background for your terrarium or vivarium. The resulting display will provide years of enjoyment for both you and your pets. All of the materials are easily attainable at your local home improvement and craft stores.
SHOPPING LIST:
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pink insulation foam
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drylok masonry sealant or comparable brand
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concrete dye
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nylon brush
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sanding sponge, various grades
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serrated knife
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1” pcv spacers
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egg crate
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hot glue gun and hot glue
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masking tape
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acrylic paint
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sand
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tin snips
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disposable gloves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1-Empty out and clean the terrarium, making sure all interior surfaces are clean and dry. Then, lay out the 1” pvc spacers in a fashion that they will adequately support the egg crate false bottom.
2-Cut the egg crate so that it will cover the entire bottom. A pair of tin snips works very well for this.
3-Place the egg crate on top of the pvc spacers, checking to make sure it fits snugly. Trim if needed. After you are sure it fits securely, go ahead and attack the egg crate to the pvc spacers with hot glue. Your false bottom is now finished.
4-Place pink insulation foam on the back and sides of the enclosure, above the false bottom. Secure in place with hot glue. Make sure that the doors of the enclosure will still be able to open and close properly – this is especially important if the doors swing open/shut, as in Exo Terra or ZooMed terrariums.
5-You are now ready to start shaping rocks. I prefer 2” insulation foam for this. Using a serrated knife, roughly carve out your rocks. Over-exaggerate any cracks, crevices, etc. you wish to be apparent in the finished rocks – subsequent sanding and painting will remove finer details if you are not careful.
6-Sand the rock heavily with a course sanding sponge. Loose sandpaper works well, too. This will allow the fake rocks to appear rounded and weathered with age. This step will produce plenty of pink dust from the foam – you may wish to wear a painter’s mask, and vacuum up the dust as you go to avoid making a larger mess.
7-Go over the rock with a finer sanding sponge. This allows you to smooth out any rough corners, as well as give the surface of the rock some texture. Also, make sure to sand the back part of the rock (that will attach to the background) flat, to facilitate gluing it to the background.
8-Continue to make more fake rocks using the above steps. You may choose to glue them into place as you go, or do so all at the end. Pay attention to how the rock background is assembled – staggering or offsetting similarly shaped rocks can result in a much more natural appearance.
9-After all of the rocks are glued in place, cover all of the remaining surfaces with masking tape. This will prevent the drylok sealant from adhering to the glass or plastic trim. If it does get around the masking tape, any stray paint can be removed with a razor blade.
10-Move the enclosure to a well-ventilated area. Make sure you protect the surface you are working on with newspaper or cardboard – this will prevent paint from getting everywhere. Lay the enclosure on it’s back, pull on a pair of disposable gloves, and get ready to paint.
11-Open the can of drylok, and pour a couple cups of it into a plastic container. Add some concrete dye, and mix thoroughly, remembering that the paint will dry lighter than the color it is when it’s wet.
12-Now you’re ready to paint. Using a brush with nylon bristles, lightly apply the dyed drylok. A brush with longer bristles will make it easier to get into the cracks of the rocks. Let excess drylok run into the cracks – this will dry and serve to help hold the background together. Most likely, you will not cover everything in one coat. This is okay – drylok dries very quickly, and you will be able to do a coat every 2-3 hours.
13-As the drylok dries, the exposed pink foam that was not painted will stand out. Waiting 2-3 hours between coats, cover the background several times, until there is no longer any pink visible. Make sure to apply at least 3 coats for durability, and ensure the final coat covers everything.
14-Before the final coat of paint dries, throw sand on the wet paint to give the rock added texture. If a worn, smooth texture is desired, skip this step. Alternatively, the sand can be mixing into a final coat of paint. Allow everything to dry for at least a day.
15-After 24 hours, the rock background can be painted with acrylic for added depth and color. Initially, a light wash of black acrylic paint diluted in water can give depth to the background, especially if it is allowed to settle into the cracks on and between the rocks. Earth tones, such as browns, reds, and greens can be used to give the rock a worn, weathered appearance, and can be used to mimic mosses and the like. After the paint has dried, remove the masking tape.
16-After the background has dried for several days, cover the egg crate false bottom with weed block, and introduce soil, any wood, and plants to the enclosure. Spray everything down thoroughly, and allow the plants to grow in for a couple weeks. When the environment is stable and meets the needs of the desired inhabitants, introduce them into the terrarium and enjoy.
Custom terrarium background | Bearded dragon setup..
I started with of Styrofoam planks. Also bought a cheap soldering device and replaced the tip with wire to use it as a Styrofoam cutter.
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Putting together the basic back structure.
Adding more ledges.
Using tooth sticks to hold all together temporary.
This is my first attempt doing this project for my reptiles. The whole project took me almost two weeks to complete (with drying process).
Make sure you leave this to dry for a full 24 hours!
When dry start placing your decoration. Take your time over this and make sure everything is where you want it to be.
When everything is in place secure it down using Expanding Foam. Theres no requirements on this just go to your local DIY store and get some i do recommend trying to find a good one rather than own brands you will have to pay more and try and get one with a gun its a hell of a lot easier to apply.
Then plan where you want the background to be, i recommend the back and half the sides. When you have the location in mind make a "canvass" using a sealant/silicon. It has to be black trust me on this you will find out why later. make sure it is 100% solvent free and 100% waterproof. Now "paint your canvass"
Next after its all dry, you need to trim back the foam. Its up to you how you want to sculpt your masterpiece. I just made it look a little tidier, trimming to the tops/left and right hand sides.
Now comes the really hard part well tedious part lol - after you have trimmed your background we need to cover it. The best substrate to use is eco earth or plantation soil or coco fibre substrate. I used eco earth the ones that come in bricks. IT MUST BE DRY DO NOT SOAK IT. what you have to do is grate it like so - it takes a while so make sure your laptop is in front of you with a good tv show i watched two episodes of Supernatural haha have fun
If you miss some then wait for what you have down to dry and go back over the missed parts - dont rush it take your time.
To apply the now grated soil, use your bog standard PVA glue again make sure its 100% waterproof, i used wicks own brand pva glue. Now i did try other glues like gorilla glue, silicon etc but i had problems with all so trust me on this use the PVA
Now back to why i said to use black sealant when you create your canvass. Its because if you didn't then you would see all the expanding foam you applied and it looks ugly!! with the canvass in place you can see it looks nice/better than lots of expanding foam lol and it gives a nice definition.
Now we are on the home straight. Next you need to add 1 to 2 inches of hydroballs for drainage, and then place a mesh covering on top of that to separate the balls from the soil.
Then add your soil/substrate. Again i used eco earth this time soaked in water for 30 mins. when you done this you are ready to plant! Make sure they are all gecko friendly plants! and that you have cleaned the plants before hand to remove any pesticides or fertilisers that might be present. Just wash the whole plant with warm soapy water and rinse well!!! I used ficus benjamini, cheese plants, some pothos, all of these can be found at your local garden centre.
Lastly i added a springtail culture i bought a 15l culture and added have of this to the exo. leaving the other half to re populate. I then bought some sheet moss and layed this over the top of the substrate. mainly to keep humidity at a nice level and so that charlie doesnt get fine substrate particles stuck on her pads. and it looks really nice as well!
and thats a wrap! i hope you enjoyed this build thread and it gives you some inspiration. If you have any questions than feel free to post below i will answer as many as i can.