Snails :
The Benefits of Snails in the Saltwater Tank
While snails are often viewed as a nuisance in the freshwater tank, they can serve a valuable purpose in the saltwater aquarium.
As an aquarium hobbyist, you have probably heard horror stories about aquarium snails taking over the tank. In freshwater tanks, aquarium snails have an uncanny ability to reproduce quickly, going from one or just a few snails to hundreds in what seems like no time. In the saltwater aquarium, however, this type of snail infestation is less common. In fact, saltwater aquarium snails can be highly beneficial. If you have a saltwater aquarium, take the time to learn about the potential benefits a marine snail might have in your tank.
Facts About Marine Snails
Marine snails belong to the phylum Mollusca in the class Gastropodus and there are over 40,000 recognizes species of snail. These organisms have hard shells composed of a calcareous or horn-like material – in many cases it is either tightly coiled or spiraled. A snail’s shell is typically used for protection and some species even have an operculum, a sort of trapdoor that can be used to seal the snail in when it retract into its shell. Marine snails vary in size depending on the species – some are as small as only a few millimeters while others can reach a diameter of over 20 inches. Snails move by gliding along its “foot,” a flat muscle which adheres to solid surfaces, facilitating locomotion by means of myriad tiny muscular contractions.
Types of Marine Snails
When it comes to marine snails, there are many different species to choose from. Some of the most popular species, however, are turbo snails. There are several different types of turbo snails and they may vary in size from less than one to several inches. Bumble Bee snails are named for their black-and-yellow stripes and, due to their small size, they are able to get into tiny cracks and crevices in search of detritus. Margarita snails are capable of devouring large quantities of algae and, unlike some species, they are non-venomous so they won’t damage delicate corals and other invertebrates. Tiger Cowries, another species of marine snail, are fairly large and they are particularly recommended for live rockaquariums.
Keeping Saltwater Snails
If you plan to keep saltwater snails in your tank you should not assume that they will simply find their own sources of food. While marine snails will feed on detritus and algae growths in the aquarium, you may also need to supplement their diet. If you have other invertebrates in the tank that perform a similar role, this will be especially important. Marine snails are likely to accept a wide range of foods – they tend to feed from the substrate and from tank surfaces, however, so your best option is to use sinking pellets or wafers. Snails will also eat bits of meat-based foods such as brine shrimp, fish and scallops.
To keep your marine snails healthy and happy you should strive to keep the salinity of your tank at a specific gravity between 1.018 and 1.028 with a pH between 8.10 and 8.4. The specifics for water parameters may vary slightly depending on the species of snail you choose, but these are general guidelines. Keep in mind that aquarium snails can be very sensitive to changes in water chemistry so, once you purchase your snails, you should slowly acclimate them to the tank. Once settled in your tank, the snails will begin scavenging for food on their own.
If you are looking for a simple way to keep your saltwater tank clean, or if you are just looking for something unique to stock your tank with, consider a marine snail.
References :
“Marine Snails.” Aquatic Community. < http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/SwSnails/>
“Benefits of Marine Invertebrates.” Drs. Foster and Smith. <http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?c=3578&articleid=2092&d=158&category=299>
“Snails.” LiveAquaria.com. < http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=497+526>
“Marine Snails.” SeaWorld.org. < http://www.seaworld.org/animal-info/animal-bytes/animalia/eumetazoa/coelomates/protostomes/mollusca/marine-snails.pdf>
TURBO SNAIL CARE :
Turbo snails (Turbo spp. and Astrea spp.) have a reputation as hardy algae eaters. However, while they will help graze on algae, you must take care to select a true tropical species, as many turbo snails offered for sale belong to temperate species that will fare poorly in tropical tanks, which make up the vast majority of saltwater aquariums. Beyond this, turbo snails do require some specialized care.
Tank Setup :
Turbo snails require an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Additionally, the tank must have good lighting and strong current. Most of these requirements overlap with those of coral. This makes turbo snails good for reef tanks, provided you are certain the specimens in question are tropical species. Since it is very difficult to distinguish between turbo snail species just by looking at them, the only way to ensure this is by getting your turbo snails from a knowledgeable fish dealer with a reputation for honesty.
Water Chemistry:
Turbo snails require the same conditions as fish in a reef aquarium. They require a tropical temperature between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the water must have a specific gravity of 1.020 and 1.024. The pH may range between 8.0 and 8.4. Like many saltwater invertebrates, turbo snails do not tolerate ammonia, nitrites or nitrates well. Like corals, turbo snails require supplemental calcium in their water. Turbo snails need this calcium since they extract this element from the water to make their shells.
Feeding:
Most people get turbo snails to help control algae. Only put turbo snails in aquariums with lots of live rock with light algae growth for them to eat. If they exhaust their supply of algae, you will need to provide supplemental foods. You can wedge dried seaweed between pieces of live rock to provide your snails with extra food. You can purchase such seaweed at pet shops that carry saltwater fish.
Tankmates:
As reef-safe invertebrates, turbo snails will not harm other invertebrates, nor will they harm fish. However, other organisms -- some reef-safe -- may harm turbo snails. Turbo snails cannot share a tank with grazing fish like tangs. These vegetarians will eat food more quickly than the snails, even with supplemental feeding. This leaves the snails to starve. You must also take care to avoid predatory fish like triggerfish, which specialize in eating hard-shelled invertebrates.
It seems that every couple of years a new marine snail appears in the trade that promises long life and consumption of every form of algae under the sun. The fact is, most all snails have a preference for a specific algae/detritus problem and choosing the right snail to solve your particular cleanup issue is key to getting these little guys to work for you.
If your tank is less than 4 months old, it will traverse in and out of cycles and you will likely see every algae/Cyano outbreak in the book. This is a normal process that could go on for 6 months or more until the tank finds an equilibrium and stabilizes itself. Many beginners rush out and buy one of the many “Reef Cleaner Packs”. These assortments don’t target the problem you have and usually contain way more snails then the algae in your tank can support. The result is usually a massive snail die-off from starvation. This results in an algae bloom greater than the initial problem you were trying to solve.
It’s not uncommon for established tanks to go through a bloom of algae on occasion. The usual advice is to cut back or stop feeding, do a water change, replace your RO or DI canister, add GFO/Carbon, dose this or that- and the list goes on. The fact is it may have happened without you causing it. Many tanks need to be fed daily in the case of non-photosynthetic livestock (some types of corals and most fish) and if you feed close to the same amount on the same frequency then that’s not the issue. Trying to find the source of the bloom is near impossible. It’s best to take the shotgun approach and just eliminate or reduce algae nutrients using all the methods that are posted all over the internet.
Even if you solve the problem some forms of algae will remain and not disappear. For example, Green Hair Algae and Bryopsis will sometimes stay in a sort of stasis and won’t grow anymore but won’t die back either. Using snails to consume these algae will remove them and, if water conditions have been fixed, they won’t grow back.
With text book water parameters, you will still get algae. it’s impossible to keep a reef tank free of detritus and algae for any length of time. The trick is to find the right snails and the right quantity of snails to maintain the tank in good condition. This reminds me of the story of painting the Golden Gate Bridge. It takes so many years to paint the bridge from start to finish that when it’s done, they need to go back to the beginning and start over again. Same with snails. The algae is never gone, but enough has grown back for the snails to go over the same spots again. Not enough snails and the algae will slowly take over. Too many snails and they’ll starve to death and pollute your tank. The best way to determine what you need is to start with a small number of snails. On a monthly basis, take a look at your algae and decide whether you need to add more.
In general, most snails are hardy creatures. But they don’t acclimate well. If you find that a day or two after you added a bunch of snails you see a few dead ones, then you need to increase the time for acclimation. Many folks also complain about snails being short-lived. This is usually the result of buying temperate water snails and keeping them in very warm tank water. A temperature of 78F is the upper limit for most all snails. Some won’t live long above 75F. If you’re tank temperature runs in the upper 70s to low 80s, the Astrea snail is probably the only one that can tolerate these temperatures.
Snails usually have a preferred algae, be it diatoms, hair, or film. It is their primary food source. They may eat other types of algae as well, but this is the one they go for first. While many snail types will eat Cyano Bacteria, there is no known tropical snail that prefers it. Therefore, relying on a particular species to eat Cyano is hit or miss.
Here’s a detailed rundown of the most widely available snails and their strengths and weaknesses.
Abalone (Haliotis sp.)
Abalones are like a giant Limpet. They have a single top shell and can grow to about 3 inches. If you buy one, make sure you purchase a tropical variety as most Abalones live in temperate waters. Because of their size, they are voracious film algae eaters. They will also remove coralline algae from smooth surfaces, but won’t consume it. They only eat film algae. Unless you have a very large tank and a horrendous film algae problem, they are not for you. They also have a sharp serrated appendage that flexes as it walks and have been known to scratch acrylic tanks.
Astrea Snail (astrea sp.)
Astrea snails are a good all around cleaner with large appetites. They prefer hair algae, but also consume green film, diatoms, and Cyano. They won’t eat long strings or big tufts of hair algae, but if you cut it back to a “lawn” on live rock they will voraciously eat it. These guys require extra time in acclimation. However once acclimated, they can tolerate higher water temperatures than most snails. Astreas are good all around herbivores and are a good addition to any tank, especially those that suffer from hair algae outbreaks. If they fall off the glass or live rock into the sand they cannot right themselves and will eventually die. Their soft underparts will also get picked at by hermit crabs and fish furthering their demise. For this reason, buy larger Astreas so they won’t fall into small crevices. Keep an eye on them. If they fall, be ready to move them from the sand bed to a place on your rock.
Bumble Bee Snails (engina sp.)
The Bumble Bee snail is very attractive with its black and yellow striped shell. This snail is a carnivore- it won’t eat any algae. It is a good sand sifter as it partially buries itself in the sand. It will eat detritus, bristle worms, and other organisms in the sand bed. It won’t decimate your sand microfauna like the sand sifting starfish can, but it will have some impact. These snails require an old established tank to do well. While the shell is attractive, it will eventually get covered with coralline and other algae. In general, the bumble bee snail may do more harm than good in a reef tank.
Cerith Snail (Cerithium sp.)
Despite not being very popular, The Cerith snail is a great all around snail because it will feed on so many things. It is an omnivore so it will eat detritus, uneaten fish food, film algae, diatoms, hair algae and Cyano. It is also an excellent sand sifter as it will bury itself in the sand. They can grow to about 2-3 inches but they are very slow growers. They will lay eggs but reproduction in aquariums seem to be limited. Most aquarists don’t like them because they don’t appear very active. They are in fact true nocturnal creatures and will do all their work at night. These snails are perfect for established tanks to handle routine cleaning, and for new setups to keep various algae issues in check.
Cowrie (Cypraea sp.)
Cowries are very attractive with their patterned glass like shells. However, they are not good additions to reef tanks. As juveniles, they will eat lots of detritus and sometimes algae, and they normally stay on live rock and don’t venture across the glass. As they grow they will pick at and consume smaller soft corals and anemones. They are attractive additions to a FOWLR tank, but I cannot recommend them for any reef tank containing soft corals, mushrooms, or anemones.
Margarita Snail (Margarites sp.)
Margarita snails are the best hair algae eaters. They have big appetites and can really clean up a tank fast. While they will also go after film algae, they prefer hair algae and will often starve if not enough is present. This is one snail I would not buy in large quantities because they will run out of food quickly. They tend to move up the glass often staying half-in / half-out of the water. They do not like warm temperatures. 76F is their max temperature for long term survival.
Nassarius Snail (Nassarius sp.)
Nassarius snails won’t eat any algae- they are carnivores. They need fine sand and will bury themselves and move around keeping your sand bed clean. They will eat detritus and uneated food. Unlike the Bumble Bee snail, they don’t appear to eat the microfauna in the sand bed. They are small in size and can get into live rock crevices and keep it clean.
Nerite Snail (Nerita sp.)
There are actually more species of Nerites that live in freshwater than salt. Nerites are the diatom eaters. They also consume film, hair, and Cyano. They are small in size (maximum size is 1 inch) so they can get into hard to reach places. However, being small they do not consume algae as fast as other snails. Of all the snails listed here, they are the most long lived and will survive 3-5 years under good conditions. When stocked together with the Cerith, they make a great team in controlling algae in established tanks.
Trochus Snails (Trochus sp.)
Trochus snails are large in size and big eaters. They are big on film and diatoms, but do not readily eat hair algae. They seem to be short-lived, but do spawn every few weeks in most aquariums. If your corals or rock work is not secured, they will act as a bulldozer and knock things down. Because of their size, do not overstock these as film and diatom algae may be in short supply down the road.
Turbo Snails (Turbo sp.)
Turbos are large snails that eat massive amounts of algae. They prefer film algae, but will eat all forms of algae including macro algae. Due to their size and weight they can knock over a significant piece of live rock or larger corals with ease. Avoid the “Mexican Turbo” variety as they are subtropical and won’t live very long in most reef tanks. It is important to watch for dead or dying Turbos as their large size can pollute a tank quickly. They eat so much algae so quickly, that I wouldn’t go with more than 1 per 25 lbs. of live rock. If you have any specialty macro algae, these guys will eat it.
So what’s the best snail?
It really depends on what your major concern is:
Problem Best Snails
Film Algae : Trochus, Nerite
Diatoms : Nerite, Trochus
Hair Algae : Margarita, Astrea
Cyano : Turbo, Astrea
Detritus : Nassarius, Cerith
Macro Algae : Turbo, Trochus
Here’s a nice summary to use in choosing the snails for your tank::
Snails species list :
courtesy to www . live aquaria . com
Snails belong to one of the largest classes of organisms, with over 40,000 recognized species. While the shell itself is the primary means of protection, the snail's ability to adhere to a surface and its production of noxious compounds also discourages predators. Looking for Freshwater Snails?
1-Mexican Turbo Snail
Turbo fluctuosa
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 2"
Color Form: Clear
Diet: Herbivore
Origin: Mexico
Family: Turbinidae
The Turbo Snail is extremely popular among reef hobbyists, since it quickly eliminates large amounts of nuisance algae. It is particularly fond of hair algae and will consume mass quantities of it and other algae off your live rock and aquarium glass. Also known as the Turban or Top Shell Snail, Turbo fluctuosa has a thick, top- or turban-shaped shell with an irridescent interior. The Turbo Snail is native to the Gulf of California off the coast of Mexico.
An excellent member of your aquarium's cleanup crew, the Turbo Snail thrives in crevices and holes in natural reefs. In the home aquarium, the Turbo Snail needs ample hiding places and large spaces to graze. Some reef aquarists prefer to keep the Turbo Snail in aquariums with well-secured rockwork since this active herbivore is known to bulldoze loose rocks in search of food.
The peaceful Turbo Snail should not be kept with aggressive tankmates that can quickly overcome this slow-moving creature. If algae levels are insufficient, supplement the diet of the Turbo Snail with dried seaweed. Also, adequate calcium levels are required to help this member of the Turbinidae family build its protective shell. Like other invertebrates, the Turbo Snails is very sensitive to copper-based medications and high nitrate levels. To acclimate the Turbo Snail, employ the drip-acclimation method since it is intolerant of even the smallest fluctuations in water parameters.
Approximate Purchase Size: 3/4" to 2"
2-Margarita Snail
Margarites pupillus
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 1"
Color Form: Black, White
Diet: Herbivore
Origin: Eastern Pacific
Family: Trochacea
The Margarita Snail is one of the most sought after home reef inhabitants. This is because they can consume large amounts of algae, including nuisance hair varieties. Plus, unlike some snails, Margarites pupillus is non-venomous and peaceful towards corals, invertebrates, and other tankmates. Also known as the Stomatella Limpet, Little Margarite, and Pearl or Pearly Topped Snail, the Margarita Snail has a brown body and smooth, turban-shaped shell and may grow up to 1" as an adult.
The Margarita Snail does well in the home aquarium provided it is well established and has an ample algae source for the Margarita Snail to feed upon. For best care, they should be kept at cooler water temperatures with other peaceful tankmates. However, most Margarita Snails can adjust to an aquarium with a water temperature as high as 78 degrees Fahrenheit.
Like other invertebrates, the Margarita Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper-based medications. Also, it should be acclimated to new aquariums using the drip acclimation method. The Margarita Snail is sensitive to even small changes in water parameters including pH, temperature, and alkalinity. To promote shell growth, supplement calcium levels in your aquarium.
Keep in mind that the Margarita Snail will starve if algae levels become sparse. Therefore, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. To feed, use an algae clip or wrap the seaweed around a rock or empty shell and place into your aquarium, next to the glass.
Approximate Purchase Size: 1/2" to 1"
3-Cerith Snail (Cerithium sp.)
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 1½"
Color Form: Black, Green, White
Diet: Omnivore
Origin: Caribbean, Mexico
Family: Cerithiidae
Don't let the Cerith Snail's small adult size fool you. As well as having a gorgeous, elongated spiral shell, this active scavenger can consume large amounts of detritus, uneaten food, fish waste, and algae. Plus, this species of theCerithium genus often burrows in your aquarium sand and helps maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.
Native to the Caribbean and Eastern Pacific off the coast of Mexico, the Cerith Snail does best in larger, well-established reef systems with deep sand beds. This voracious feeder is most active at night. In fact, breeding pairs of Cerith Snails will lay their eggs on your aquarium glass just after dark in long, stringy curves. However, since these eggs take a while to develop, they are often consumed by other tankmates or removed from the water column by filtration before the eggs have a chance to hatch. The Cerith Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity. Not only is determining the sexes difficult, but the water parameters required to do so are unknown.
Like other invertebrates, the Cerith Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper based medications. It also requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method, since it is sensitive to even minute changes in water parameters.
Approximate Purchase Size: 1/2" to 1"
4-Astraea Turbo Snail
Astraea tecta
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 1"
Color Form: Green
Diet: Herbivore
Supplements: Calcium, Trace Elements
Compatibility: View Chart
Family: Astraeinae
The Astraea Turbo Snail has a unique shell and a ravenous appetite for algae. Unlike many bottom dwellers that are dressed in drab colors to better camouflage themselves against the sand bottoms, Astraea tecta boasts a pyramid-shape shell with beautiful, olive green coloration. Since some individuals have projections on the shell that give it a star-like outline, the Astraea Turob is also known as the Astraea Star Snail or Astraea Conehead Snail.
Though interesting to observe in your home aquarium, the Astraea Turbo Snail serves a greater function of cleaning algae-covered live rock. It is very adept at keeping your aquarium clean. In fact, this small herbivore prefers to feed on nuisance hair algae, as well as cyanobacteria and diatoms. Some aquarists also report that the Astraea Turbo Snail actually consumes the entire hair algae structure, which helps prevent immediate further algae growth.
The Astraea Turbo Snail prefers well-established aquariums with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. In addition to eating algae off of your live rock, this member of the Astraeinae family will also clean your aquarium glass. However, the Astraea Turbo Snail is not known to be climbers like other smaller-shelled snail species. Care needs to be taken to observe the daily activities of this hungry snail since it has difficulty righting itself if it falls or is knocked upside down.
Like other invertebrates, the Astrae Turbo Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Astraea Conehead Snail requires a gradual acclimation period, preferably the drip acclimation method, he often over two hours, since it cannot tolerate even minute changes in water parameters. If sufficient food levels are not present, supplement the diet with blanched spinach or lettuce and vegetable-based tablet foods.
Approximate Purchase Size: 1/2" to 1"
5-Nassarius Snail
Nassarius sp.
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: ½"
Color Form: Black, Tan, White
Diet: Carnivore
Origin: Caribbean, Indonesia, Mexico
Family: Nassariidae
The Nassarius Snail is a little snail with a big appetite. This hungry critter glides through your aquarium foraging for food. The Nassarius Snail is an efficient scavenger and detritus eater and is the perfect member of your reef aquarium cleanup crew. You will be pleased at how quickly a small group of Nassarius Snails will clear detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, and fish waste.
The Nassarius Snail is a small scavenger with an oval, spiral shell that resembles an olive pit. The Nassarius Snail likes to burrow in the sand, usually with its long, tube-like siphon protruding from the substrate. As it searches for food, the Nassarius Snail helps prevent compaction and aerates aquarium substrate.
The Nassarius Snail prefers an established aquarium with live rock and a deep sand bed. It is sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper-based medications. The Nassarius Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity.
Approximate Purchase Size: 1/4" to 1/2"
6-Banded Trochus Snail
Trochus sp.
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 1"
Color Form: Red, White
Diet: Herbivore
Supplements: Calcium, Trace Elements
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Indonesia
Family: Trochidae
The Banded Trochus Snail is touted by aquarists of all experience levels for numerous reasons. Like other members of the Trochidae family, the Banded Trochus is easy to care for and very adept at working as your aquarium's cleanup crew. The Banded Trochus Snail normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot. It boasts a pale gray, top- or pyramid-shaped shell. Thanks to the maroon stripes or bands on its shell, the Banded Trochus Snail adds a unique flair to any marine system.
Also known as the Trochus, Turban or Top Shell, or Turban Snail, this species of the Trochus genus is the true Banded Trochus Snail from Indonesia. Perhaps what many aquarists appreciate the most is the ease with which Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed in the home aquarium. It reproduces sexually by releasing gametes into the water column. The gametes appear as a cloudy, white substance. Breeding activity is usually sparked by changes in lighting or water conditions. After the gametes join, they develop into free-swimming larvae that eventually settle into your aquarium substrate and develop into mature snails over a period of a few months.
The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.
The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.
Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.
Approximate Purchase Size: 3/4" to 1"
7-Super Tongan Nassarius Snail
Nassarius distortus
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
Max. Size: 1"
Color Form: Tan
Diet: Carnivore, Omnivore
Supplements: Calcium, Trace Elements
Origin: Tonga
Family: Nassariidae
The Super Nassarius Snail from Tonga combines unique beauty with unparalleled scavenging abilities. Its oval, spiral shell is often said to resemble an olive pit, but it is much more ornate and elegant in its beauty. The most striking physical characteristic, however, is the long, tube-like siphon that protrudes from one end of the shell. This siphon is used to breathe while the Super Nassarius Snail is buried in the substrate foraging for food. In addition to beauty, the Nassarius distortus is an ideal detritus eater that also helps maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate as they burrow and sift through the sand.
Among the many species of Nassarius snails found in the coastal zones of most oceans, the Super Nassarius Snail is one of the largest and can grow up to 1" in size. This size advantage over their much smaller relatives makes them ideal inhabitants in larger marine reef systems. However, since they spend most of their time buried in your aquarium substrate feeding on waste, uneaten food, and other detritus, they require a well-established aquarium with live rock and sufficient sand substrate.
The Super Tongan Nassarius Snail has an acute sense of smell and can quickly detect food when added to your aquarium. It is definitely fun to watch the sand boil with activity as the Super Tongan Nassarius Snail emerges from the substrate in search for the source of the scent. Super Tongan Nassarius Snails can typically find enough food in most marine aquariums with well-established sand beds. However, if food levels are not adequate, supplement their diet with frozen meaty foods, such as brine or mysis shrimp or pieces of fish or scallops.
Like other invertebrates, Nassarius distortus is very sensitive to copper-based medications and high nitrate levels. The Super Tongan Nassarius Snail requires a gradual acclimation period, preferably the drip acclimation method, since it is intolerant of even the smallest fluctuations in water parameters. The Super Nassarius Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity.
Approximate Purchase Size: 1/2" to 3/4"
