10 Things You Should Know Before Keeping Seahorses As Pets:
Courtesy to : www.fusedjaw.com By: Tami Weiss
1. Yes! Seahorses can be kept as pets.
As long as you have the proper aquarium set up, and take take proper care of them. They are protected by international law, but that means their trade is regulated, not prohibited. Most countries allow the free trade and keeping of captive bred seahorses. Captive bred seahorses are easy to obtain in many countries and are generally allowed under the regulations protecting seahorses.
2. They are marine fish.
They require a saltwater aquarium, and all the equipment that goes with it. Which leads us to:
3. They are expensive.
Seahorses themselves start around $60 each from reputable online vendors. Overnight shipping which is required for seahorses to arrive in good health runs anywhere from $40-$80, depending on the distance they are sent. The equipment and materials to run a saltwater aquarium tend to be very expensive. $500-$1000 for a set up is not uncommon.
4. Seahorses can’t be kept like most other marine fish.
Seahorses have special requirements that preclude them from being kept like most other saltwater fish or invertebrates. They require lower temperatures, are suseptable to coral and anemone stings, and need a different environment to thrive.
5. Seahorses have a specialized diet.
Seahorses are picky eaters, and the need to eat a lot. They mainly eat shrimp, but readily available brine shrimp is not an adequate diet. Most captive bred seahorses eat frozen mysis and those unfortunate enough to own wild caught seahorses have to feed live foods.
6. You can’t go on vacation when you have seahorses.
Okay, that’s not true. But you do have to find someone reliable with at least saltwater aquarium experience to take care of them if you do. Seahorses can’t be left without food for more than a day, and vacation feeders don’t work.
7. You should always purchase Captive Bred seahorses.
Even if you can get wild caught seahorses, you should always opt for captive bred. They are easier to care for, less disease prone, easier to feed, live longer, and are generally adapted well to life in captivity. Plus, you’re not taking them from the wild where they are already threatened by overfishing and habitat loss.
8. Tank-Raised or Net-Pen Raised isn’t the same as Captive Bred.
Many distributors and fish stores sell seahorses that were either raise in giant pens in the ocean, or collect the pregnant fathers and hatch the babies in captivity. The problem with this is that they’re still prone to many of the diseases that wild caught seahorses are vulnerable to. You’re best bet is to buy seahorses from a recognized breeder to ensure that you’re really getting captive bred seahorses.
9. Most pet stores give wrong information about seahorses.
Pet stores and fish stores tend to be the worst place for getting advice on seahorses. It’s not intentional most of the time, there is just a lot of bad information that has been passed around for years. The internet, reef clubs and online sites are much better sources of information about seahorse care..
10. Keeping seahorses is addictive.
Despite the difficulties and special requirements, keeping seahorses as pets is a rewarding and exciting experience. It’s hard to stop at just one or two! Before you know it, your house will be filled with aquariums and your wallet be lighter. But hey, there are worse addictions out there!
Fish Stores Say The Darnedest Things: 20 Misconceptions About Seahorses
courtesy to : www.fusedjaw.com by Tami Weiss
Sea Horses :
Seahorses have always been a mystery, fascinating man from the earliest times. Aristotle wrote about them. Even in modern times, relatively little was known about seahorse biology until 20 years ago, when the first serious attempt at researching their biology was made. But even with groundbreaking new research, they are shrouded in as much fantasy as fact, and much misinformation exists about them. Much of this is perpetuated by ill informed fish stores, some by the media sensationalizing the almost unreal seahorses. Twenty of the most common misconceptions are addressed here.
1. Seahorses are invertebrates.
Because of their unique appearance, seahorses have been described as all manner of animals, from insects to amphibians. They lack scales, have an exoskeleton, have eyes that move independently, lack a tail fin and generally look un-fishlike. However, they are actually just bony fish, just like goldfish. A more fish-like relative to the seahorses is the stickleback. Other, more interesting (but still fish) relatives are pipefish, sea dragons, and sea moths.
2. Seahorses are short lived.
Seahorses are only short lived if you compare them to the lives of especially long lived species such as angel fish (+20 years) or clownfish (+10 years) While it depends on the species, seahorses live between 3 and 7 years, dwarves being the exception, clock in at 18-24 months. However, many stores say this because many wild caught seahorses are mistreated and die very quickly in captivity.
3. The natural diet of seahorses is Brine Shrimp.
By far the most common misconception, and potentially the most harmful, Brine Shrimp is not part of the natural diet of seahorses, and should not be given as their staple diet. Brine shrimp are from salt ponds and lakes, not the ocean, and have evolved a very different lifestyle than that of normal seahorse food. Most seahorses won’t even recognize the strange, upside-down swimming shrimp as food. Those that do are unable to digest the largely calcium based body. Enriching with a fatty supplement may help, but is still of dubious value. Brine shrimp is often referred to as having the nutritional value of potato chips, but a more accurate comparison would be to styrofoam as little, if any nutrition at all is gained by seahorses eating them.
4. Seahorses are filter feeders.
This is one of the crazier things I’ve heard about seahorses. I’m sure this piece of misinformation was started by someone who, feeding their seahorses the wrong foods, never saw it eat. Probably the same person who said seahorses are short lived.
5. Seahorses eat algae.
Another patently wrong fact about seahorses that is sometimes given by well meaning fish stores. Seahorse do not eat algae, they are strictly carnivores. This tall tale probably comes from what appears to be seahorses eating algae when in fact they are snicking small shrimp that live in the algae, and may even accidentally ingest some.
6. (While looking to purchase a pet seahorse.) This seahorse eats frozen.
If a seahorse is wild caught, it is highly unlikely to be eating frozen food. Many fish stores offer frozen food, but never actually see them eat, and assume putting frozen food in the tank equals eating frozen. A desperate seahorse may even snick up a piece of frozen once. But eating frozen means vigorously consuming frozen food. Ask to see it eating frozen. If it doesn’t eat frozen in front of you, its not going to eat it when you get home. [Feb. 2010 update: Due to CITES, most seahorses available will be captive bred or tank raised and eating frozen food. However, it is still best to ensure they are eating frozen as a stressed seahorse might not. Furthermore, while most are raised in captivity, wild caught seahorses are still available from time to time.]
7. It’s captive bred.
Fish stores, catching on to consumer interest in captive bred seahorses are starting to claim their wild caught seahorses are captive bred because that is what the consumer wants. Asking what species it is should clear up whether its captive bred or not. All commercial seahorse farms sell their seahorses by species name. If they don’t know, its not captive bred. Also, if its under $50 ($40 online) or full grown, its likely not captive bred.
Watch for tank raised seahorses too, which can have problematic issues and be sold too small. They often fair poorly, and fish stores don’t seem to understand the difference between captive bred and tank raised seahorses, causing a lot of confusion to aquarists.
On the other side of the coin, some high value seahorses, like Hippocampus reidi, are solid at an extreme markup. Many stores claim they’re captive bred, and may have even started to train them onto frozen food. Unfortunately, once they arrive in the home aquarium, they end up faring very poorly; reverting to live food and refusing frozen food. These seahorses have a high mortality rate.
8. You can keep a seahorse in a 10 gallon aquarium.
10 gallons is one of the worst sizes for seahorses. Its too small for most species of seahorses, and too large for dwarves, where food dispersal over such a large area is a problem. A 25 gallon or larger for most large seahorses is necessary, and 5 gallon or smaller for dwarves.
9. Seahorses do well in reef tanks.
The argument is that seahorses come from reef habitats, so they should be able to live in a reef tank happily. Unfortunately, this is not the case. Many seahorses come from grass beds, and those that live in a reef live in areas that are protected from the harsh crushing waves associated with a reef. In reef aquariums, the fast moving water, high temperatures, and aggressive tank mates all condensed in a small space make for horrible living conditions for seahorses.
10. Anemones are okay with seahorses.
Anemones do just fine with seahorses. Seahorses, on the other hand, are not okay with anemones. Unless you are looking to feed your anemone an expensive meal, keeping anemones with seahorses is a bad idea. And just because it hasn’t eaten your seahorse yet or you know someone who’s kept an anemone with a seahorse without a problem, don’t assume that it will continue to work out. Seahorses only have to get tangled into the tenticles once. Being weak swimmers, they are unable to free themselves from the grasp of an anemone. And there is another seldom mentioned reason why seahorses and anemones shouldn’t be kept together. Even a sting from a fairly weak stinging anemone can wound a seahorse. The exoskeleton of a seahorse is covered by a sensitive layer of skinner that affords no protection from stinging animals. Wounds from stinging animals can easily turn into unbeatable infections.
11. Seahorses do just fine with (aggressive coral such as bubble corals, elegance corals, galaxy corals, etc . . .):
The same as with anemones, seahorses are easily wounded by the stingers of various corals which easily lead to infections that could cost you the life of your seahorse. Because it hasn’t been stung YET, don’t assume it won’t. Always be sure to make sure any corals you place with your seahorses do not sting.
12. Seahorses are safe with (tangs, damsels, clowns, puffers, various other aggressive fish).
When picking tank mates, you must choose very peaceful fish. Seahorse can’t compete with faster fish for food, and stress easily when confronted with fast moving fish. Even fish that normally act peacefully towards seahorses may turn on them. Some algae eating fish pick at seahorses because of the algae that often grows on their skin. If you have a fish that isn’t recommended to be kept with seahorses, then don’t. Just because it hasn’t attacked and killed your seahorse yet doesn’t mean that it won’t. There are plenty of examples of supposedly aggressive fish living peacefully with seahorses for months before out of the blue showing its agressive side and killing the seahorse faster than you can net the offender.
13. Seahorses can’t have any other fish in the aquarium with them.
The flip side to the previous example, of course, is that while many people believe its impossible to keep seahorses with other fish, there are in fact many peaceful fish that are slow eaters that do not out compete seahorses for food. These are usually gobies, although some other types do well with seahorses.
14. The natural fauna of the aquarium will feed your seahorse.
New seahorse owners are often told that the “bugs” that occur naturally in their aquarium are enough to support a seahorse. This is false; seahorses are veracious eaters, and will quickly deplete a population of naturally occurring shrimp. Even aquariums with refugiums set up just for the purpose of supplying food are unlikely to be able to support seahorses. Seahorses need to be provided with a steady supply of food from outside the aquarium. At most, a tank with a well established colony of shrimp may provide the occasional extra treat.
15. Seahorses can’t be kept alive in captivity.
While seahorses are certainly not the easiest fish to keep in captivity, its far from impossible. Many dedicated individuals have been able to keep they’re seahorses alive through old age. With the introduction of captive bred seahorses, it became even easier for the average aquarist to keep seahorses alive and healthy.
16. Seahorses can’t breed/be raised in captivity.
Not only can they be raised in captivity, but there is a booming market for captive bred seahorses. Even hobbyists without the high tech equipment of commercial farm can raise seahorse young successfully with a little bit of dedication. Despite the claim of some extreme conservation groups that there is no proof that seahorses can be captive bred, several public aquariums and research facilities have successfully closed the life cycle on various species of seahorses, and have reported on their accomplishments.
17. You need a license to keep seahorses.
In November 2002, all species of seahorses were added to the CITES appendix II listing, set to take effect May 2004. This will restrict the trade of seahorses, and any countries following CITES guidelines will have to follow collection guidelines that prevent depleting wild populations in order to export their seahorses. Importing and exporting seahorses will require special licenses. However keeping seahorses once they are in the country does not require a license. If you purchase a seahorses that is properly imported, or if the seahorse is captive bred, you do not need any special permits or licenses to keep them. To learn more about seahorse restrictions, see http://seahorse.fisheries.ubc.ca/cites.html
18. Keeping Seahorses as pets depletes wild populations.
This is actually partially true. Keeping wild caught seahorses does in fact remove animals from the ocean. However, a much bigger threat to seahorses is the harvest of seahorses for Traditional Chinese Medicine. Approximately 24 million seahorses are harvested annually for the TCM market, the number of seahorse harvested for aquariums numbers in only the hundreds of thousands. While that’s no small number, it is only a drop in the bucket compared to other threats. Additionally, more and more aquarists are also demanding captive bred seahorses to take the pressure off wild populations, an example TCM practitioners should follow.
19. Seahorses are used as an aphrodisiac in Traditional Chinese Medicine.
Western cultures often report that various animals and animal parts are used by Asian cultures as aphrodisiacs, and in most cases, incorrectly. The western mindset does not understand the use of animals in medicine, and in many cases seeks to belittle its importance. Aphrodisiacs are seen as a luxury, something unnecessary to survival, so if TCM is using an animal, especially a threatened or endangered one, for a luxury item, it makes the use seem futile and wasteful. In reality though, most animals reported to be used as an aphrodisiac are used to treat a wide range of ailments, from headaches to heat disease. Seahorses, ironically, are one of the few used as aphrodisiacs in some cases. However, more common uses include fertility, asthma, broken bones, and kidney disease to name a few.
20. Seahorses mate for life. If their partner dies, they won’t find another mate.
Early seahorse research by Amanda Vincent discovered that the seahorse species she was studying, Hippocampus whitei, had elaborate pair bonding rituals that occurred on a daily basis and seemed to reenforce a strictly monogamous relationship. Each day, the male and female would perform elaborate courtship dances before going their separate ways to hunt for food, but return to the same patch of sea grass at night. In the presence of other seahorses, they would still wait for their mate to return.
Journalists, fanciful animal conservationists and seahorse enthusiasts everywhere grabbed on to the romanticized notion that seahorses mate for life. However, this was only one species, and no true test of their fidelity was really performed. Many other species were discovered to not be monogamous, changing partners each time they mate, sometimes even mating with more than one during the same brood.
Other apparently monogamous species only act monogamous if their mate arrives for their daily greeting. If not, they search for and settle down with a new mate. There does seem to be some difference in how monogamous various individuals are, some waiting weeks to find new mates while others not even a day. There are even some reports that some don’t find new mates. But certainly, that is not all seahorses, nor even the majority of them.
Not A Worm!
Aquarium Set Up :
Despite what some people believe, keeping a captive-bred seahorse in an aquarium is not difficult. Like most marine fish, it may be time consuming.
After all, they are a live animal that needs to be cared for appropriately. We recommend that you read up a bit before purchasing so you know what you are doing. Beware, there are still some wild-caught seahorses on the market and they can be more difficult to look after, as they need live food; this is perhaps where some people have got the impression that they are hard to keep.
Introduction
Captive-bred seahorses are fun to keep in an aquarium but like any pet, they need to be fed appropriately and their environment maintained. You should look into what is required before purchasing your seahorses, keeping in mind that requirements may vary between species.
You can make your aquarium as simple or as elaborate as you desire. There are literally thousands of accessories on the market and it can be daunting at first. Below is a guide for setting up a seahorse aquarium. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us here at the farm or for more detailed coverage you can purchase a book in the seahorse shop.
Choosing a species :
Temperate, tropical and sub-tropical species are available. Temperate species, which require cooler water temperatures (e.g. 16-20 C) should only be kept in cooler climates or where other methods of water cooling, such as a chiller, are available. Similarly, a heater may be required for tropical species.
Size should also be considered. Larger species such as Southern Knights or Asian Emperors require larger aquariums. Southern Champions are a small species and can be kept in smaller tanks. Our current range of captive-bred seahorses is found in the seahorse shop.
Choosing a tank :
There are many different sizes and styles of aquaria to choose from. An expansive aquarium will help you to observe the fascinating habits of your seahorses.
The minimum size should be about 50L (see individual species pages), which will safely house two seahorses up to about 14cm in length. Larger fish should be given a minimum of 80L per pair. However a larger tank (e.g. 150L) will allow you flexibility in interior design, while giving the seahorses room to explore their habitat. Deeper tanks are desirable if you intend to breed your seahorses (see Breeding).
The larger your tank, the easier it is to maintain optimum water quality
Substrate and Filter
There is a vast array of filter systems available on the market. Internal Powerhead filters are great, though it’s important that you choose a size appropriate for your particular tank. Ideally, you want the whole volume of your aquarium to pass through the filter 3-4 times each hour. Eg, for a 90-L tank, choose a Powerhead that filters 270-360 litres per hour. A common mistake when using a Powerhead as the sole means of filtration occurs when cleaning. Beginners will be tempted to clean all the filtering materials even though this destroys much-needed biological filtering capacity. It is pertinent to clean only some of the filter material at a time. See your local aquarium dealer, or contact us at the farm for further details.
Undergravel filters are commonly used in aquaria where they act as both a mechanical and biological filter. These filters are usually inexpensive and work very well, though are the most laborious to maintain. A simple undergravel filter consists of a base-plate on which 3-5cm of coarse washed pebbles are placed. Please avoid very small stones, sand or shell grit as there is some risk that these may be ingested by the seahorses while foraging for food. Scattering larger stones on top of your pebbles makes a great looking tank. These filters are usually driven by air and therefore help to keep the water well saturated with oxygen.
External Canister filters are more elaborate and expensive, they work great (be sure to choose the right size for your tank) and are the easiest to maintain.
Large tanks may incorporate more than one filter. For the best system for your needs and budget consult your local dealer or contact us at the farm.
Air Supply:
When setting up air-stones, be aware that excess air can be problematic, as the male seahorses can get air trapped in his pouch. Seahorses love to sit in the stream of bubbles coming from airstones. Occasionally, a male may get some air trapped in his pouch (this can also occur during courtship with a female). This can be easily remedied by a gentle squeeze:
1. Wash hands thoroughly and ensure there is no soap or moisturiser residue.
2. Hold your male in both hands, just under the water surface, with his pouch-opening upwards.
3. Starting at the base of the pouch, very gently squeeze from the bottom up, encouraging him to open his pouch and release the air. It may take 3 or 4 attempts. Be patient, he will thank you for it.
Holdfasts and Corals:
Some artificial branches or other structures should be added that provide sites for the seahorses to wrap their tails around. Rope and netting are fine or choose artificial ornaments from your aquarium shop that have suitable structures for the seahorses to wrap their tails around. Avoid items with sharp edges. Live corals require temperatures outside the range of temperate species, and therefore are not compatible inclusions. For the tropical species some corals are safe but others emit toxins so corals may not be the best additions if you are unsure. Some claim that Chargers are the best suited species for aquariums with corals. Take care if adding live rock to your tank as it can be a source of harmful parasites. See " Tank Companions " for other great temperate marine animals that complement Southern Knights and Southern Champions.
Biological Filtration & the Nitrogen Cycle - Looking after your water quality
Biological filters are a normal part of keeping any aquarium. Your biological filter (which is your pebbles/substrate in an undergravel filter, or your sponge and noodles in a suspended Powerhead filter) is designed to grow helpful bacteria, which convert toxic products (excreted from fish), into non-toxic forms.
Fish excrete ammonia, which is toxic if it accumulates. One species of bacteria in your biological filter feeds on the ammonia and converts it into nitrite.
Nitrite is also very toxic, however another species of bacteria will convert this to nitrate.
Nitrate is much less toxic to marine fish, and can be removed with the help of a simple protein skimmer, and by renewing some of the water. (Nitrate is an excellent nutrient for plants, so high levels will encourage algae growth).
While providing adequate food for your seahorses is necessary for their health, overfeeding is dangerous for 2 reasons:
1. It encourages the growth of ‘unsafe’ bacteria 2. Levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate may rise suddenly to dangerous levels ("spike")
As with all aquarium fish, overfeeding should be avoided at all times. Any uneaten food should be removed to avoid poor water quality.
Levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate can be easily tested with test kits, available from pet-shops or the Seahorse Shop.
Ideal levels are:
Total Ammonia at Zero mg/L
Nitrite at Zero mg/L
Nitrate at or below 100 mg/L
So, how does your biological filter become established?
Any type of fish will excrete ammonia, and this is what is needed to begin growing the bacteria in your biological filter. However, in a new tank, the ammonia will rise to dangerous levels before there are enough bacteria to break it down. Therefore it is highly recommended that you establish your biological filter prior to stocking with seahorses. There are several ways to do this – the two most popular ways are:
1. To use bottled culture media (from your pet shop)
2. To set up your tank and put in a prawn or some frozen fish food. As the bacteria break it down, they will produce ammonia and kick-off the biological cycle. If you regularly test your water during this period you will see ammonia levels peak, followed by nitrite levels peaking, then ammonia falls to zero followed by nitrite levels.
Note: live rock can also be used but be aware that various animals living in live rock, such as crabs, can hurt seahorses.
The cycle can take 4-6 weeks to complete. You will know it is complete because your ammonia and nitrite test will show readings of "zero". This means the bacteria are living in balanced numbers.
You can now consider your tank to have 'cycled' and confidently add your seahorses.
Water Quality:
When you first set up your aquarium and add your seahorses, it is wise to check the following parameters regularly: temperature, pH, salinity, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. When the readings are staying relatively stable, you can stop checking so often and sit back and enjoy your extraordinary new pets.
Salinity :
Salinity tolerance is likely to vary between species. Southern Knights, which sometimes live in estuaries, tolerate a range of salinity from a minimum of 18 parts per thousand (ppt) to a maximum of 36ppt but living conditions below about 25ppt should be promptly corrected. About 32 ppt is ideal; in specific gravity terms, between 1.01 and 1.02. Measuring salinity is done with an inexpensive hydrometer, which is readily available from your aquarium dealer and from our Seahorse Shop.
Preparation of Artificial Seawater
Using artificial seawater is a popular way of keeping marine fish. These days, commercial brands are available (an excellent brand is Ocean Nature, available from our Seahorse Shop).
DO NOT use a mixture of table salt and freshwater, as this will kill your seahorses!
Preparation requires care and we advise that the tap/fresh water be prepared first.
The following procedure is recommended:
1. Place fresh water in storage bucket. Dechlorinate carefully by adding water purifier. Aerate.
2. Wait for 2 hours
3. Add aquarium salt as per directions on the pack.
As time goes by, and particularly in warm weather, the salinity of your tank will gradually increase. Monitor and add fresh water (with purifier) to reduce the salinity level. Party ice is ideal to lower the temperature and salinity.
Temperature
Seahorses inhabit temperate, sub-tropical and tropical regions around the world. This environment should be mimicked in your aquarium. Before deciding on what species of seahorse you would like, ensure that you check their temperature requirements and whether you are capable of maintaining that temperature. A thermometer is an essential aquarium accessory.
Refer to species descriptions for optimal temperature ranges.
Ideas to keep your water temperature down in warm climates:
-Keep in an air-conditioned or cool part of the house.
-A generous tank size (eg >80-L).
-2 freezer blocks. Keep one in the tank and one in the freezer and alternate as required.
-Add party–ice. These simply replace evaporation and do not severely alter salinity.
-Insulate unseen sides of tanks. (e.g. add polystyrene to sides of tanks hidden in cabinets).
-Turn your aquarium light off in hot weather.
Food :
Having to find a source of live food is a thing of the past, thanks to captive-bred seahorses being trained to eat frozen food. They love frozen Mysid shrimp, small krill and brine shrimp. They require feeding twice per day with approximately 50 shrimp/krill. A sole diet of frozen brine shrimp is not recommended in the long-term, as it lacks important nutrients and your seahorses may slowly lose condition. It is best to supplement their diet with frozen Mysid shrimp or krill, as these have fantastic nutritional profiles.
As with all aquarium fish, any uneaten food should be siphoned away. When doing this, be careful not to injure your seahorse with the suction of the siphon.
If live diets are available from your aquarium dealer, these can be purchased occasionally to give your seahorse a treat. They will especially love the thrill of chasing their prey.
Disease Management :
The key to good health is water quality and nutrition!
Our seahorses are regularly checked at the farm for any disease or health issues. Our staff ensures the good health of every fish leaving the farm. We do not recommend the indiscriminate use of antibiotics since resistant strains of bacteria may quickly result.
If you suspect your seahorse might be unwell at any time, the best immediate attention you can provide is to lower the temperature towards the lower end of its preferred range (e.g.16-18°C (65-68°F) for Southern Knights). Anti-bacterial agents can be administered if warranted, though be sure to dose your tank as per directions on the bottle, and continue the treatment for the duration of the organism’s life cycle.
More Information:
If you would like to join an online discussion group, there are several groups including:
Seahorses specis list :
eahorses are relatively hardy and adjust well to life in captivity if maintained in water conditions with low current and plenty of branching gorgonias, algae, or coral decorations. Because Seahorses have difficulty competing for live food when other fish are present, these fish are best kept in a tank containing only Seahorses and Pipefish.
1-Ingen's Seahorse, Captive-Bred
Hippocampus ingens
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Expert Only
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Waterflow: Low to Medium
Water Conditions: dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025, 68-77° F
Max. Size: 10"
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Captive-Bred
Family: Syngnathidae
The Ingen’s Seahorse, Hippocampus ingens, is one of the largest of the seahorse species. In the wild they spend most of their time hunting for tiny crustaceans to consume while using slow movements and camouflage to mimic their surroundings and appear invisible to predators. The Ingen’s Seahorse can be reddish to maroon, gray, yellow and gold with various shades of brown they may also have fine white markings which may run vertically down their body.
Looking for the best food to feed your Seahorses? We recommend AlgaGen Tisbe biminiensis.
These social fish thrive when kept as a mated pair or in small groups in a species-only aquarium. A 30 gallon aquarium is sufficient for a single pair. Add 20 gallons to the size of the aquarium for each additional pair. Spray bars may be used to create gentle flow while eliminating stagnant areas in the aquarium. Seahorses are not strong swimmers, preferring to use their prehensile tails to hitch to branching live rock, algae, or artificial decorations. Seahorses are less likely to contract Vibrio bacterial infections if the temperature is not allowed to exceed 74°F. This is particularly important if the aquarium contains other species of Syngnathids. It is also necessary to remove detritus and uneaten food daily. Calcium and alkalinity levels must be monitored and maintained to keep their bony plates healthy.
They may be kept with small, shy fish such as smallgobies, pipefish, dragonets, and firefish. But aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. Seahorses will be harmed by anemones and corals with stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume them, such as brain corals. While sea fans, Acropora corals, and other branching corals may be safe for seahorses, they can be irritated or damaged by a seahorse that continually hitches to them. Crabs and clams may pinch a seahorse causing a wound that could lead to secondary infections. Small ornamental crustaceans may be consumed by the seahorses.
Avoid fish that will out-compete the seahorse for food. These captive-bred seahorses are accustomed to frozen Mysis shrimp, making them a smart alternative to their wild-caught counterparts. They will also feed upon amphipods and other small crustaceans found in live rock. They will also accept vitamin-enriched adult brine shrimp, but this should not make up a majority of their diet. They are slow, deliberate feeders and prefer two or more small feedings per day.
Seahorses are probably the most recognizable fish in the world due to their unusual appearance and habits. They are very social, curious fish that are fun to watch while they interact with their surroundings, each other, and even their owners.
Approximate Purchase Size: Small; 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" Medium; 2-1/2" to 4"
2-Kuda Seahorse, Captive-Bred (Australia)
Hippocampus kuda
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 6"
Color Form: Black, Clear, Tan, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Captive-Bred
Family: Syngnathidae
The Captive-Bred Kuda Seahorse is a moderately sized seahorse and is also known as the Spotted Seahorse. This species ranges in color from black to yellow. Some individuals may have spots or a darker band or bars on their body.
These social fish thrive when kept as a mated pair or in small groups in a species-only aquarium. A 30 gallon aquarium is sufficient for a single pair. Add 10 gallons to the size of the aquarium for each additional pair. Spray bars may be used to create gentle flow while eliminating stagnant areas in the aquarium. Seahorses are not strong swimmers, preferring to use their prehensile tails to hitch to branching live rock, algae, or artificial decorations. Seahorses are less likely to contract Vibrio bacterial infections if the temperature is not allowed to exceed 74°F. This is particularly important if the aquarium contains other species of Syngnathids. It is also necessary to remove detritus and uneaten food daily. Calcium and alkalinity levels must be monitored and maintained to keep their bony plates healthy.
They may be kept with small, shy fish such as smallgobies, pipefish, dragonets, and firefish. But aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. Seahorses can be harmed by anemones and corals with stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume them, such as brain corals. While sea fans, Acropora corals, and other branching corals may be safe for seahorses, they can be irritated or damaged by a seahorse that continually hitches to them. Crabs and clams may pinch a seahorse causing a wound that could lead to secondary infections. Small ornamental crustaceans may be consumed by the seahorses.
Avoid fish that will out-compete the seahorse for food. These captive-bred seahorses are accustomed to frozen Mysis shrimp, making them a smart alternative to their wild-caught counterparts. They will also feed upon amphipods and other small crustaceans found in live rock. They will also accept vitamin-enriched adult brine shrimp, but this should not make up a majority of their diet. They are slow, deliberate feeders and prefer two or more small feedings per day.
Seahorses are probably the most recognizable fish in the world due to their unusual appearance and habits. They are very social, curious fish that are fun to watch while they interact with their surroundings, each other, and even their owners.
Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 2” to 2-1/2”; Medium: 2-1/2” to 3”; Large: 3” to 4”
3-Tiger-Tail Seahorse - Maricultured
Hippocampus comes
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 6¼"
Color Form: Black, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Maricultured
Family: Syngnathidae
The Tiger-Tail Seahorse is Maricultured in Vietnam and is native to the soft coral reefs of Malaysia. This is a beautiful species that is yellow or black in coloration, with stunning markings around the eyes. The males of this species are often times black, while the females are typically yellow. They have many stripes and blotchy markings, providing them with valuable camouflage.
For the best results, seahorses should be kept in a separate, species-only tank that is 30 gallons or larger with multiple Gorgonians which they can grab with their prehensile tails. If not provided with Gorgonians, plastic plants can be substituted. The Tiger-Tail Seahorse reacts poorly to being harassed by other more aggressive fish such as: blennies, gobies, wrasses, tobies, triggerfish, and porcupinefish.
Maircultured seahorses will breed readily in the aquarium when they are fully mature. The male will carry the young for approximately 3 weeks, at which time they will be released into the water column. Provide a separate aquarium with live rock for the new born sea horses. Feed these new born freshly hatched vitamin enriched brine shrimp.
The Tiger-Tail Seahorse is a slow, deliberate feeder, so fast, aggressive fish will out-compete it for food. Seahorses tend to get along with pipefish, but they are a slightly faster feeder than the seahorse and may not leave behind enough food. The Maricultured seahorses are accustomed to eating frozen mysis shrimp that should be offered to them at least twice a day.
Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2"; Medium: 2" to 3"
Leafy seadragon ( Not for Aquarium Trade ):
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The leafy seadragon or Glauert's seadragon, Phycodurus eques, is a marine fish in the familySyngnathidae, which includes seadragons, pipefish, and seahorses. It is the only member of the genus Phycodurus.
It is found along the southern and western coasts of Australia. The name is derived from the appearance, with long leaf-like protrusions coming from all over the body. These protrusions are not used for propulsion; they serve only as camouflage. The leafy seadragon propels itself by means of a pectoral fin on the ridge of its neck and a dorsal fin on its back closer to the tail end. These small fins are almost completely transparent and difficult to see as they undulate minutely to move the creature sedately through the water, completing the illusion of floating seaweed.
Popularly known as "leafies", it is the marine emblem of the state of South Australia and a focus for local marine conservation.
Description :
Much like the seahorse, the leafy seadragon's name is derived from its resemblance to another creature (in this case, the mythical dragon). While not large, they are slightly larger than most seahorses, growing to about 20–24 cm (8–10 in). They feed on plankton and small crustaceans.
The lobes of skin that grow on the leafy seadragon provide camouflage, giving it the appearance of seaweed. It is able to maintain the illusion when swimming, appearing to move through the water like a piece of floating seaweed. It can also change colour to blend in, but this ability depends on the seadragon's diet, age, location, and stress level.
The creature feeds by sucking up small crustaceans, such as amphipods and mysid shrimp,plankton, and larval fish through its long, pipe-like snout
Leafy seadragons usually live a solitary lifestyle. When the time comes, males court the females, they then pair up to breed. From the moment they hatch, leafy seadragons are completely independent. By the age of two, they are typically full grown and ready to breed. The leafy seadragon is related to the pipefish and belongs to the family Syngnathidae, along with the seahorse. It differs from the seahorse in appearance, form of locomotion, and its inability to coil or grasp things with its tail. A related species is the weedy seadragon, which is multicoloured and grows weed-like fins, but is smaller than the leafy seadragon. Another unique feature are the small, circular gill openings covering tufted gills, very unlike the crescent-shaped gill openings and ridged gills of most fish species. Current research at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography is investigating the evolutionary relationships of the Syngnathidae and the DNA variation of the three seadragon species across their ranges.
Reproduction:
As with seahorses, the male leafy seadragon cares for the eggs. The female produces up to 250 bright pink eggs, then deposits them onto the male's tail with her ovipositor, a long tube. The eggs then attach themselves to a brood patch, which supplies them with oxygen. After 9 weeks, the eggs begin to hatch, depending on water conditions. The eggs turn a ripe purple or orange over this period, after which the male pumps his tail until the young emerge, a process which takes place over 24–48 hours. The male aids in the eggs hatching by shaking his tail, and rubbing it against seaweed and rocks. Once born, the young seadragon is completely independent, eating small zooplankton until large enough to huntmysids. Only about 5% of the eggs survive. Leafy seadragons take about 28 months to reach sexual maturity.
Movement:
The leafy seadragon uses the fins along the side of its head to allow it to steer and turn. However, its outer skin is fairly rigid, limiting mobility. Individual leafy seadragons have been observed remaining in one location for extended periods of time (up to 68 hours), but will sometimes move for lengthy periods. The tracking of one individual indicated it moved at up to 150 m (490 ft) per hour.
Threats :
Leafy seadragons are subject to many threats, both natural and man-made. They are caught by collectors, and used in alternative medicine. They are vulnerable when first born, and are slow swimmers, reducing their chance of escaping from a predator. Seadragons are often washed ashore after storms, as unlike their relative the seahorse, seadragons cannot curl their tails and hold onto seagrasses to stay safe.
The species have become endangered through pollution and industrial runoff, as well as collection by fascinated divers who are entranced by their unique appearance. In response to these dangers, the species has been totally protected in South Australia since 1987, Victoria since at least 1995, and Western Australia since 1991. Additionally, the species' listing in the Australian government's Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999 means that the welfare of the species has to be considered as a part of any developmental project.
Habitat:
The leafy seadragon is found only in southern Australian waters, from Wilson’s Promontory in Victoria at the eastern end of its range, westward to Jurien Bay, 220 km (140 mi) north of Perth in Western Australia.[1][14] Individuals were once thought to have very restricted ranges; but further research has discovered that seadragons actually travel several hundred metres from their habitual locations, returning to the same spot using a strong sense of direction. They are mostly found over sand patches in waters up to 50 m (164 ft) deep, around kelp-covered rocks and clumps of sea grass.[2] They are commonly sighted by scuba divers near Adelaide in South Australia, especially at Rapid Bay, Edithburgh, andVictor Harbor.
In captivity :
Due to being protected by law, obtaining seadragons is often an expensive and difficult process as they must be from captive bred stock, and exporters must prove their broodstock were caught before collecting restrictions went into effect, or that they had a license to collect seadragons. Seadragons have a specific level of protection under federal fisheries legislation as well as in most Australian states where they occur.[1] Seadragons are difficult to maintain in aquaria. Success in keeping them has been largely confined to the public aquarium sector, due to funding and knowledge that would not be available to the average enthusiast. Attempts to breed the leafy seadragon in captivity have so far been unsuccessful.
- Australia : Australian aquaria featuring leafy seadragons include the Sydney Aquarium, the Melbourne Aquarium, and the Aquarium of Western Australia.
- Canada :Ripley's Aquarium of Canada in Toronto displays both leafy and weedy seadragons.
- United States: A number of aquaria in the United States have leafy seadragon research programs or displays. Among these are the Adventure Aquarium in Camden, New Jersey, Aquarium of the Pacific at Long Beach, the Birch Aquarium at Scripps, San Diego, the Minnesota Zoo, theMonterey Bay Aquarium in California, the Dallas World Aquarium, Texas, the New England Aquarium, Boston, the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium in Tacoma, Washington, the Shedd Aquarium, Chicago, the California Academy of Sciences, the Tennessee Aquarium, Sea World Orlando, Florida[citation needed], the Pittsburgh Zoo & PPG Aquarium,[citation needed], Ripley's Aquarium of the Smokies Gatlinburg, Tennessee[citation needed], and The Florida Aquarium in Tampa, Florida. and the Mote Aquarium in Sarasota, Florida.
Cultural references :
The leafy seadragon is the official marine emblem of the state of South Australia. It also features in the logos of the following South Australian associations — the Adelaide University Scuba Club Inc. and the Marine Life Society of South Australia Inc.
A biennial Leafy Sea Dragon Festival is held within the boundaries of the District Council of Yankalilla in South Australia. It is a festival of the environment, arts and culture of the Fleurieu Peninsula, with the theme of celebrating the leafy seadragon. The inaugural festival in 2005 attracted over 7,000 participants including 4000 visitors.
In 2006 an animated short film, The amazing adventures of Gavin, a Leafy Seadragon, was made on behalf of several South Australian organisations involved in conserving the marine environment, including the Coast Protection Board, the Department of Environment and Heritage and the Marine Discovery Centre.[37][38][39] Made through a collaboration of The People's Republic of Animation, Waterline Productions and the SA Film Corporation,[40] the film is an introductory guide to marine conservation and the marine bioregions of South Australia suitable for 8-12 year olds,[41] and copies were distributed on DVD to all primary schools in the State. An educator's resource kit to accompany the film was released in 2008
This animal is reported as being the basis of Dragalge from Generation 6 of the Pokemon Series.
This animal also has two pages devoted to it in Michael Hearst's book, Unusual Creatures where all of the unusual things about it are listed.
