The Small Polyp Stony (SPS) corals have small polyps on a calcerous skeleton!
Small Polyp Stony Corals :
The SPS corals have much smaller polyps than the LPS corals. LPS polyps are large and soft. SPS corals are usually either branching or plated. For the most part they enjoy bright light and strong currents. They are often fragile and are propagated by breaking off pieces.
SPS corals used to be considered very challenging. A few discoveries in the last couple decades or so have brought them into the realm of the average aquarist. Nowadays it is not uncommon to see aquariums with various species of acropora, hydnophora, and other species of SPS corals growing and thriving.
Since SPS corals usually occupy the reef flats in turbulent water, they require high light levels produced by VHO fluorescent or metal halide (seeMini-reef: Lighting) and strong water currents or turbulence. They also require very stable temperatures and excellent water quality (low organic nutrient levels) to thrive. Levels of calcium, strontium, and trace elements must be maintained. Sources vary on whether they need feeding or not. Probably some can be fed but it is not required to do so.
What Are SPS and LPS Corals ?
The coral reef is a beautiful world; comprised of anemones, mushroom corals, corals, crustaceans, and a myriad of other incredible animals. The word coral itself brings to mind the reef building hard corals, or stony corals. Stony corals produce a skeleton of calcium carbonate, which then becomes the foundation and building blocks of the coral reefs.
The Small Polyp Stony (SPS) Corals can have complex elegant shapes, and dazzling colors.
Convenient terminology in the aquarium industry is used to describe stony corals as either SPS corals (small polyp stony corals) or LPS corals (large polyp stony corals). What they look like becomes immediately obvious when you compare the size of their polyps. SPS have much smaller polyps than the LPS.
Convenient terminology in the aquarium industry is used to describe stony corals as either SPS corals (small polyp stony corals) or LPS corals (large polyp stony corals). What they look like becomes immediately obvious when you compare the size of their polyps. SPS have much smaller polyps than the LPS.
Though this generally works pretty well for the aquarist in recognizing a particular type of coral, it isn't an exact description. There are occasional coral species whose polyps don't fit the norm of their group, being too large or too small. From a scientific perspective, there is little objectivity and no real correlation between polyp size and classification.
Types of Coral :
The following genera are those corals usually referred to as Small Polyp Stony (SPS) Corals:
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Acropora
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Agariciid Corals
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Anacropora
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Astrocoeniid Corals
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Disticophora
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Echinophyllia
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Heliopora
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Hydnophora
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Merulina
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Montipora
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Mycedium
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Oxypora
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Pachyseris
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Pavona
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Pectiniid Corals
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Pocilloporid Corals
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Siderastreid Corals
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Stylophora
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Pocillopora
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Porites
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Psammacora
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Seriatopora
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Stylophora
Live Coral Care :
Keeping a bit of coral reef in the home aquarium is an exciting and rewarding adventure. Reef tanks were once considered very difficult to keep. Keeping live coral is still somewhat demanding, but today the knowledge and equipment are readily available to the average hobbyist. Anyone with the desire to learn specific husbandry techniques and the willingness to purchase the proper equipment can keep a gorgeous reef aquarium. Of course the aquarist must invest his or her time in the care of these unique animals as well.
Beautiful home reefs can be either a simple reef with hardier, less demanding animals, or a more complex reef with higher maintenance specimens. Stony corals are more demanding and take a more dedicated effort. So keeping stony corals is itself a step beyond a simple or beginner reef.
Having reef-keeping experience is invaluable to successfully keeping hard corals. With some of the less demanding inhabitants you can hone your skills. You will develop an understanding of the unique habitat these animals thrive in. Some of the best inhabitants for a beginning reef are soft and leather corals, coral anemones, and anemones. Once you've gained success in keeping these, you will be ready to keep the more delicate and demanding stony corals.
Corals For Sale :
Experience over the last few decades has strongly indicated that captive bred stony corals are much more adaptable and hardy than wild caught specimens. So it is better to acquire captive bred small polyp stony (SPS) corals or coral frags when possible. You'll not only get a more durable coral, but there are often many beautiful color morphs available.
SPS Selection and Care Tips
This guide endeavors to assist you with the ever popular SPS coral. This was written by member Shadowramy and it explains specific ideas and strategies in which you can do to affect the color of your corals. This assumes you have a more then basic understanding of water parameters in your tank. Click the read link to start reading about coloring in SPS corals.
In the past I have been asked a lot about coral colorization as well as wanted to satisfy my own curiosity about specific methods to achieving certain colors. Usually I am asked, How do you get good colors? Which I then ask, What specific color are you looking to enhance? Over the past several months I have really worked on tweaking colors and what is needed to get certain colors. I have done my own testing as well as seen a lot of others tanks and what they have done to achieve certain colors. I think I finally have a basic map for those who are interested.
Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock.
Yellows :
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of your baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
Greens:
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).
Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiency if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 US/Gallons twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).
Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
Blues and some purples:
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
Reds/Pinks and some Purples :
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.
For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
Purples :
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.
From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in anothers tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.
Family: Acroporidae - Acropora Corals :
courtesy to : www. animal-world . com
1-Antler Coral
Staghorn coral, Branching Acropora, Staghorn Acropora
Family: Acroporidae
Closely resembling antlers, this branching Acropora is known as the Antler Coral!
The Anther Coral Acropora microphthalma is one of the familiar branching Acroporas. It belongs to a group of Acroporas called the horrida group. This group of corals all have similar forms, with the branches having a rough surface. Their branching growth forms have been used to describe them with common names such as Antler Coral, Staghorn Acropora, Staghorn Coral, or Branching Acropora.
Although the Antler Coral needs excellent care like all the Acroporas, it is one of the easier Acros to keep in aquaria. They are also easy to identify, having same sized corallites. They come in creams, brown, and pale gray, though aqua cultured specimens are available in blues, greens, and even yellows. A. microphthalma is smaller than the other Staghorns.
Acropora corals are some of the largest, most contributing corals for reef formations in the world. In fact, between the Acropora and Montipora corals, they make up one-third of all reef building coral species. In the wild they are the most tolerant of water temperatures, salinity changes, water movement, and lighting, but in captivity they can prove to be very difficult to keep. In the ocean, they are the first to arrive at a reef and spread quickly. Other corals that arrive later, then tend to move in.
The A. microphthalma have been propagated in captivity thus helping to spare wild populations in the world's reefs. Buying captive propagated A. microphthalma helps the aquarist, since they are a little more hardy than their wild siblings, but they can still succumb to diseases typical to Acros.
Scientific name Family: Acroporidae
Species: Acropora microphthalma
Distribution / Background:
Acropora Coral Information: The Anther Coral Acropora microphthalma was described by Verrill in 1859. They are in what is called the horrida group of Acroporas that also include A. kirstyae, A. horrida, A.toruosa, A. vaughani, and A. austera. They all have similar forms to A. horrida with the branches having a rough surface, Some common names they are known for are derived from their growth form, such as Antler Coral, Staghorn Acropora, Staghorn Coral, and Branching Acropora.
Where Acropora Corals Are Found: A. microphthalma are found in Australia's Great Barrier Reef, the Coral Sea, and around the Houtman Abrolhos Islands of Australia. There are also colonies from Madagascar to the Marshall Island and then to the Ryukyu Islands.
Acropora Coral Habitat: The A. microphthalma are found in sandy lagoons or turbid waters. Acropora spp. corals are found across the reef in various locations from turbid waters (with sediment or foreign particles stirred up or suspended in the water) to those with strong waves and high currents; from areas where there is little light to being fully exposed to the sun (and the air) at low tide.
Status:
The Acropora microphthalma is on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species as Least Concern (LC).
Description :
What do Acropora Corals look like: All Acropora Spp. corals have very porous and lightweight skeletons. They are constantly forming new branches that grow in an irregular pattern. The branches can be anywhere from horizontal to vertical in growth, and in a thicket pattern. Their branches are a little more stout than other Staghorn corals. Their corallites are small and they are all the same size.
Acropora microphthalma are pale grey, pale brown or cream, with aqua cultured colors of green, blue, and yellow also available. A. microphthalma can be confused with A. horrida. But on simple examination, you will see that A. horrida has corallites of different sizes all over the branches. The natural colors of A. horrida are usually blue, light purple, or cream with light purple to pink tops.
Acropora corals are characterized by fast growing terminal (or axial) polyps at the tips of the branches. The polyps at the tips secrete this corallite, constantly forming new growth in a cluster shape. These terminal polyps do not have zooxanthellae. They grow quickly because the terminal polyps are fed by the rest of the colony. This allows Acropora to outgrow other corals on the reef.
Acropora Coral Life Cycles: The Anther Coral A. microphthalma can grow over 6 feet (2 m). It reaches sexual maturity within 3 to 5 years, with a branch diameter of 1.5-2.75" (4-7 cm). They can live 4 to 7 years.
Difficulty of Care:
Acropora Coral Care: Acroporas are among the more difficult corals to keep, which is surprising as their natural habitats have a wide array of conditions. In captivity they require stable tank conditions, sudden changes may result in death. They are sensitive to temperature changes, sedimentation, chemical and other environmental stresses. They will stress very easily if the light is too low, or the water movement is not sufficient.
Acropora need to be carefully acclimated to their new homes. They need to be placed in their permanent position within a tank after acclimation. It takes about 5 to 6 months for the A. microphthalma to regain their normal growth rates after being added to an aquarium. Moving Acropora from place to place will stress them, and possibly cause death.
At times a healthy system has an additional Acro added and all the others die from polyp bail out or what people refer to as RTD (rapid tissue degeneration) and a whole tank of acros can be wiped out within a matter of hours. They are unsure why this happens, but it would probably be a good idea to have all the Acros you are going to want, and put them together
Foods / Feeding :
Acropora Coral Feeding: In the wild, Acropora corals have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive the majority of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms and microscopic food particles from the water column and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, feeding zooplankton once a week is the preferred choice. Copepods, Artemia, and nauplii are too large for them to ingest. But new forms of prey are being developed including invertebrate larvae and new strains of rotifers. Many feel that Acros in captivity need to be in a tank that has dissolved or solid organic matter to survive and thrive. Without this, they may seem fine for a while, but over a few months, without any visible indication, they may end up dead because of starvation. Signs of lack of food would be no new growth, polyps extending and some tissue recession.
Aquarium Care :
Excellent and stable tank conditions are required to keep all Acropora spp. corals. Doing water changes of 10% every 2 weeks is needed, although it is suggested that doing 5% water changes once a week will bring about amazing results. Keep the nitrate levels low. Tanks should offer high calcium levels and strontium should be added.
Suggested levels for Acropora species are:
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Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm (closer to 450). If the Acro does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. There will be no tissue recession, but the polyps will be extended.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.5 MEQ/L (8 to 10 dKh - 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A typical live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Anther Coral , along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank (well over a year old) is advised to increase the chance of successfully keeping Acropora.
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 100 gallons (380 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: High, metal halides are suggested.
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Temperature: 72° - 83° F (22° - 28° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.025
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Water Movement: Strong and surge-like. They prefer a strong, random, mixing-type current, therefore a rotating powerhead or wavemaker setup is recommended. Tunze stream pumps, though they have a comparatively high initial purchase price, are popular with Acro keepers.
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Water Region: Middle of the aquarium
Compatibility and Social Behaviors :
The Acropora corals are peaceful, but watch out for crabs. Many experienced aquarists do not believe any crab should be kept in a closed system with Acros. Crabs are opportunistic predators, with the exception some of the symbiotic crabs like commensal crabs, and gall crabs.
Acroporas are best kept in a small polyp stony (SPS) tank with only other SPS corals. They can send out digestive strands called 'acontia' that are actually used to digest neighboring corals, so keep an eye out for any problems. The exception to this would be if your system has an incredible filtration system and the Acros are at least 10" away from other corals such as zoanthids, large polyp stony (LPS) corals, and other invertebrates.
Do not keep soft leather corals with your Acropora species as they are aggressive and release terpins that will eventually kill your expensive investment. Leather corals are dangerous to Acros, even in the best filtered aquariums. Some large polyp stony (LPS) corals can stretch out their tentacles and kill your Acros too, so caution is needed if you have a mixed reef.
Sex - Sexual differences No sexual difference in appearance is known.
Breeding and Reproduction :
Acroporas grow rapidly and are considered to be among the most rapid growing of the stony corals. They will reach sexual maturity within 3 to 5 years, with a branch diameter of 1.5 - 2.75" (4 - 7 cm). They fragment easily and the fragments can form new colonies. This makes them ideal candidates for captive breeding/propagation.
The Acropora Spp. are male and female and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive. In the wild Acros reproduce asexually as well. The polyps at the tips of branching species secrete corallite around itself, forming longer branches. Acros also spread from breakage due to storms and fragmentation.
Propagation is rather simple for Acropora corals. First you need to choose a healthy coral that is not showing any signs of distress. Then, simply cut a branch at least 2" long and glue the frag to a plug or rock. You can use the 2-part epoxy or underwater putties. A little tip, don't glue frags upright since they will grow faster on their sides.The slime that the coral will exude should not come in contact with any other corals and gloves are suggested. Give the frag ample water flow.
Potential Problems :
Signs of stress are bleaching and receding and they will diminish and die rapidly. Transporting Acropora spp.corals can be a problem because of their shapes, the easily broken outer edges of the coral skeleton, and the ease with which they become stressed. They are also susceptible to almost every coral disease including white-band disease, black-band disease, necrosis, etc. Acropora is particularly susceptible to rapid tissue necrosis (RTN), especially specimens from the wild.
There are many animals that will prey on Acropora spp. corals. Some Acropora have symbiotic relationships with crabs and shrimps that may help them against predators. Other hitchhikers may actually be predators so careful observation must be done. Chocolate sea stars and others from the same genus are known to eat Acropora.
Availability :
Acropora Corals for Sale: The Anther Coral A. microphthalma are moderately easy to find at pet shops and on line, as well as from frag farmers and reef clubs. They are often confused with other staghorns, so learning to identify them before purchasing helps make sure your getting this species. Online they can run about $49.00 USD or more depending on size and color.
Many Acropora spp. corals have been propagated by fragmentation. It is not difficult to find captive-bred colonies of Acropora corals for sale or trade. Captive-bred corals may tolerate less intense lighting and water movement as well as possibly being easier to care for than those taken from the wild.
For more information on disease see Keeping Acropora Corals: SPS Coral Ailments
References :
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Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
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Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
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Anthony Calfo, Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1 Edition 2: Reef Gardening for Aquarists, Reading Trees; 2nd edition, 2007
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Ronald L. Shimek, Guide to Marine Invertebrates: 500+ Essential-to-Know Aquarium Species, Microcosm, 2005
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Bob Goemans, Staghorn, Acropora microphthalma, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com
Here is a brief .. For more information click on the primary name ..
Milli, Millepora Acropora, Cluster Acropora
The Cluster Coral, highlighted by a rather 'scaly' look, is a gorgeous Acro but more difficult to keep!
The colors of A. millepora are very attractive. They are most commonly found in green with orange tips, but can also be bright salmon-pink, blue, green, pale green, bright orange, or pink. The Cluster Coral is a great addition to any Acro community. They are a more difficult stony coral to keep however, so are not suggested for the beginner.
The Cluster Coral Acropora millepora is popularly known as Milli, or the Millepora Acropora. This Acropora comes from the cluster shaped grouping and forms a nice, neat appearance. Their corallites have no upper wall, but a prominent lower wall, and rounded or flared lips. This gives them the letter "C" shape. Their short branches are surrounded with these corallites giving them a scale like appearance.
Acropora corals are some of the largest, most contributing corals for reef formations in the world. In fact, between the Acropora and Montipora corals, they make up one-third of all reef building coral species. In the wild they are the most tolerant of water temperatures, salinity changes, water movement, and lighting, but in captivity they can prove to be very difficult to keep. In the ocean, they are the first to arrive at a reef and spread quickly. Other corals that arrive later, then tend to move in.
The A. millepora have been propagated in captivity thus helping to spare wild populations in the world's reefs. Buying captive propagated A. millepora helps the aquarist, since they are a little more hardy than their wild siblings, but they can still succumb to diseases typical to Acros.
Family: Acroporidae
Species: Acropora millepora
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Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm (closer to 450). If the Acro does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. There will be no tissue recession, but the polyps will be extended.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.5 MEQ/L (8 to 10 dKh - 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 10
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 100 gallons (380 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: High, metal halides are suggested
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Temperature: 72° - 78° F (22.2° - 25.5° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.025
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Water Movement: Strong and surge-like. They prefer a strong, random, mixing-type current, therefore a rotating powerhead or wavemaker setup is recommended. Tunze stream pumps, though they have a comparatively high initial purchase price, are popular with Acro keepers.
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Water Region: Top of middle of the aquarium
* No sexual difference in appearance is known.
Purple Acropora, Pink Acropora, Cluster Acropora
The Finger Staghorn Coral is a strong Acropora with thick branches, and it also comes in great colors!
The Finger Staghorn Coral Acropora humilis is a cluster shaped coral that sports attractive cherry-reds, purples and purple tips. In each aquarium the growth shape will be slightly different, since each tank has a different water flow. Some names they are known by for color include Purple Acropora, Pink Acropora, and Vivid Evergreen Acropora. Names they are known for by shape include Cluster Acropora, Branching Acropora, Staghorn Coral, and Finger Coral Acropora.
Acropora humilis is a Cluster or Corymbose Acropora. The branches of this coral are thick and taper to a dome shape, looking similar to fingers, hence one of its common names. There will be larger branches mixed in with smaller ones. Radial corallites (the cup formed by a polyp) are found in two sizes, the larger ones in rows but increasing slightly in size towards the base of the branches.
Acropora corals are some of the largest, most contributing corals for reef formations in the world. In fact, between the Acropora and Montipora corals, they make up one-third of all reef building coral species. In the wild they are the most tolerant of water temperatures, salinity changes, water movement, and lighting, but in captivity they can prove to be very difficult to keep. In the ocean, they are the first to arrive at a reef and spread quickly. Other corals that arrive later, then tend to move in.
The A. humilis have been propagated in captivity thus helping to spare wild populations in the world's reefs. Buying captive propagated A. humilis helps the aquarist, since they are a little more hardy than their wild siblings, but they can still succumb to diseases typical to Acros.
Family: Acroporidae
Species: Acropora humilis
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Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm (closer to 450). If the Acro does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. There will be no tissue recession, but the polyps will be extended.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.5 MEQ/L (8 to 10 dKh - 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 10
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 100 gallons (380 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: Moderate to high/intense, Metal halides are suggested. A. humilis are found on the upper, shallow, portions of the reef and reef flats where there is stronger lighting.
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Temperature: 72° - 78° F (22.2° - 25.5° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
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Water Movement: Moderate to strong. A. humilis are found on the intertidal areas of the reef where there is good water circulation.
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Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
- No sexual difference in appearance is known.
Bushy Acropora, Finger Acropora, Green Bushy Acropora
The Green Fiji Acropora is a more difficult Acropora to find, yet a treasure to own!
The Green Fiji Acropora is also known as the Bushy Acropora. A. bushyensis gets its name from the "bushy" looking polyps that project from the corallites. They grow in an interesting "ball" like formation with digitate projections emanating from the center.
The aqua cultured specimens have the more intense greens and yellows, as opposed to the wild specimens which are creams to light browns. For instance, the coral above, called the Green Fiji, is a green bushy coral (as evidenced by its color and the name A. bushyensis). Definitely a unique looking Acropora to add to your collection if you can find them.
Acropora corals are some of the largest, most contributing corals for reef formations in the world. In fact, between the Acropora and Montipora corals, they make up one-third of all reef building coral species. In the wild they are the most tolerant of water temperatures, salinity changes, water movement, and lighting, but in captivity they can prove to be very difficult to keep. In the ocean, they are the first to arrive at a reef and spread quickly. Other corals that arrive later, then tend to move in.
The A. bushyensis have been propagated in captivity thus helping to spare wild populations in the world's reefs. Buying captive propagated A. bushyensis helps the aquarist, since they are a little more hardy than their wild siblings, but they can still succumb to diseases typical to Acros.
Family: Acroporidae
Species: Acropora bushyensis
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Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm (closer to 450). If the Acro does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. There will be no tissue recession, but the polyps will be extended.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.5 MEQ/L (8 to 10 dKh - 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 10
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: High, metal halides are suggested
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Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.025
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Water Movement: Strong and surge-like. They prefer a strong, random, mixing-type current, therefore a rotating powerhead or wavemaker setup is recommended. Tunze stream pumps, though they have a comparatively high initial purchase price, are popular with Acro keepers.
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Water Region: Middle of the aquarium
- No sexual difference in appearance is known.
Table Top Coral, Tabulate Acropora, Cluster Coral
The Purple Tipped Acropora is one of the more affordable Acros, yet its beauty is priceless!
The Purple Tipped Acropora Acropora tenuis, also known as the Table Top Coral or Tabulate Coral, is usually cream colored with purple tips. They can also be blue, purple, cream or brown with blue or cream tips, dark red or other bright colors. All the variations in hybrid colors are too numerous to count! The corallites at the tips have a rosette pattern when viewed from above.
The Purple Tipped Acropora is easily recognized, though they do show variations based upon their geographic location. Specimens found in the western Indian Ocean and the Red Sea have relatively thin and rounded corallite walls. They are easy to frag, and once established they grow fast, so a very large aquarium is suggested.
Acropora corals are some of the largest, most contributing corals for reef formations in the world. In fact, between the Acropora and Montipora corals, they make up one-third of all reef building coral species. In the wild they are the most tolerant of water temperatures, salinity changes, water movement, and lighting, but in captivity they can prove to be very difficult to keep. In the ocean, they are the first to arrive at a reef and spread quickly. Other corals that arrive later, then tend to move in.
The A. tenuis have been propagated in captivity thus helping to spare wild populations in the world's reefs. Buying captive propagated A. tenuis helps the aquarist, since they are a little more hardy than their wild siblings, but they can still succumb to diseases typical to Acros.
Family: Acroporidae
Species: Acropora tenuis
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Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm (closer to 450). If the Acro does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. There will be no tissue recession, but the polyps will be extended.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.5 MEQ/L (8 to 10 dKh - 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 10
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 100 gallons (380 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: High, metal halides are suggested.
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Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
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Water Movement: Moderate to strong. They prefer a strong, random, mixing-type current, therefore a rotating powerhead or wavemaker setup is recommended.
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Water Region: Middle of the aquarium
- No sexual difference in appearance is known.
