Introduction :
So, you want to get a pet frog....
Before you run out to the nearest pet store or pond there are several things you should consider.
Getting a frog shouldn't be considered all that different from getting a cat or dog. It can be a lot of work, and you need to think about what you're going to do when you skip town for a week, and so forth.
Also, frogs aren't like goldfish in that they can live for a very very long time! Don't believe me? check out some of these statistics of longevity of frogs in captivity!
You may need a special license to keep frogs in some countries. I hear that in Australia it is actually very difficult to obtain an amphibian license, and people who keep frogs without such a license can get fined heavily for it. You should definitely check to see if there are any special laws pertaining to keeping frogs in your area before you get one as a pet!
Here's a few things to consider when making choices:
Frogs Can Be a Lot of Work:
Frogs need to be fed on a regular basis. Keep in mind where your food source is going to be. Generally speaking, this isn't going to be as easy as picking up a package at your local grocery store! In addition, if you get a frog that eats live bugs, expect to have a few stray bugs running around the house now and then! The larger frogs can be even more work...Many of the larger species feed on mice and this can be a less than fun experience if you aren't prepared for it! Frog tanks need to be well cleaned to prevent illness.
Active Frogs:
Probably one of the biggest mistakes I hear about is people who go out and buy a "cool-looking" frog which then proceeds to eat, sleep, and generally sit like a lump of clay. The reality is, a lot of frogs don't really do much, and they aren't exactly something you can snuggle up with either, so you need to keep that in mind when choosing an appropriate pet. Frogs may be cute or grotesque, but you can't teach them tricks, take them for walks, or make them speak on command. Frogs which aren't particularly active will quickly become a boring pet. The novelty will wear off and you'll be left with a blob that eats a lot. When looking for a pet frog, particularly for the beginner, I strongly urge you to choose ACTIVE breeds. This means, search for a species that doesn't just sit around all day. Aquatic frogs, certain treefrogs, and the less "fat" frogs are better choices.
Never get a Frog You Don't Know
There are many many species of frogs, and many have very individualized pet care needs. Some frogs need to hibernate during the winter, others do not. The pet care needs will change everything from what you need as far as tank set-up to what you have to feed them. In addition, many frogs look really really cute in the stores, and then you bring them home and in a few months they've grown in monstrous proportions and it isn't nearly as nice as you thought it was going to be:
A personal example:
I saw the cutest little frogs in the pet store called "Pixie frogs"- wow! They were these tiny little green things (almost an inch long in size) and even their name was cute....
The next day I went to an Annual Reptile and Amphibian show that took place at out local Science And Industry Museum...there I saw that those same sweet little frogs that I saw in the pet store the day before GROW to become these incredibly FAT frogs about 8 inches long!!!!! That means those cute things would have been eating mice and big ol' bugs and such...something I was utterly UNprepared for!!!
The Pixie Frog is a nickname for their Latin name, (Pyxicephalus adspersus), Their common name turns out to be The African Bullfrog.
So, the moral of this story is, find out about the frog you want to get BEFORE you get it!
Recommended Frogs for Beginners :
What makes a good pet frog? These below frog species have been ranked by size, ease of care, personality, and availability.
1-Fire-Bellied Toad :
The fire bellied toad is a great beginner frog for anyone looking into getting a pet frog. Even though they are considered ‘toads’, many people buy them as ‘pet frogs’ which is why they are on our list. They are fairly cheap averaging $8 a frog and are pretty hardy and cool to keep. They do better in communities, so it is recommended to get a few of them. Care and maintenance is quite easy.
Scientific Name: Bombina
Lifespan: Approximately 15 years based on proper care
Handling: Only be handled when necessary
Care: Easy
Community: It is recommended to house multiple fire bellied toads together
Lifestyle: Diurnal, active during the day
2-Whites Tree Frog:
The whites tree frog is the best type of frog to get if you are looking into getting a tree frog. Right now, they are by far the most popular tree frog out there due to their hardiness. They are less likely to catch diseases than other tree frogs. They are quite active and fun to watch when they are awake. They also tolerate handling a little bit more than other frog species.
Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea
Lifespan: Approximately 16 years
Handling: Whites tree frogs may be handled occasionally
Size: Approximately 4 – 5 inches
Care: Easy
Community: You may house more than one white’s tree frog together if they are the same size
Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night
African Bullfrogs
3-Tomato Frog :
The tomato frog is a great choice for those who want a nice big beautiful red frog. They don’t need much to thrive as they will live most of their life on the ground, not climbing anything. They are quite easy to take care of and are probably the most active out of all the ‘big frogs’ there are. If size and color is what you are looking for, then the tomato frog will make a great pet frog for you.
Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea
Lifespan: Approximately 6 – 8 years
Handling: Only handle when necessary
Size: Approximately 4 – 5 inches
Care: Easy
Community: Same sized tomato frogs may be housed togther
Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night
4- African Bullfrog (Pyxie Frog)
The African Bullfrog is definitely the biggest frog on our “best pet frogs’ list. Their size alone is what everyone buys them for. They are actually becoming more popular in the ‘pet trade’ nowadays due to their size and longevity. Care is also quite easy.
Scientific Name: Pyxicephalus adspersus
Lifespan: Approximately 20 – 40 years
Handling: Most African Bullfrogs do not like to be handled and might try to bite
Size: Approximately 5 – 8 inches
Care: Easy
Community: It is not recommended to house bullfrogs together
Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night
5-Pacman Frog
The pacman frog is probably the most bought ‘big frog’ there is today. The size and roundness of them makes them quite unique to have. The only downfall that they might have is that they are very boring frogs that stay burrowed all day. The only time they will come out is to soak in a water dish or eat. The reason why most people buy them is because they get pretty big and are very easy to care for.
How Long Do Frogs Live?
Amazingly, this is the hardest question I've been asked about frogs!
It turns out that very little is known at all about the natural lifespan of frogs. Partially, this is because it's pretty hard to track a frog all its life! (I guess they havent figured out a good way to put little tiny collars around their necks!)
However,some records show that in captivity, many species of frogs and toads can live for surprisingly long times. They seem generally average somewhere between 4 and 15 years!
Recently I ran across a page where people were posting data about how long their species of frogs had lived in captivity.
The longest lifespan entered was a European Common Toad (Bufo bufo ssp.) at 40 years!!!!!
Other species which live to ripe old ages include:
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Giant Toad (Bufo marinus): ranging between 7 and 24 years
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Green And Black Poison Dart Frog (Dendrobates auratus): ranging between 7 and 17 years
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Oriental Fire-bellied Toad (Bombina orientalis): ranging between 11 and 14 years
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Ornate Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) ranging from 5 to 12 years
If you want to know how long your favorite type of frog might live in captivity, try looking it up in this database of longevity that includes entries by all sorts of amphibian (and repile) breeders:
Frogs NOT Recommended for the Beginner
Poison Frogs are absolutely NOT a beginners frog. Even though these frogs lose their toxicity in captivity, their care is very complicated and these fragile beings have very specific requirements for healthy captivity. I don't even want to write up any care sheets because I myself am not expert enough to tackle the complicated procedures for proper care of such breeds.
Expensive frogs in general should not be a frog considered by the beginner because a frog that costs over 50 bucks is a high investment to make when you are still learning about frog care. Even if you've read all there is to read about frog care, you really ought to start with an easier breed before taking on the more expensive breeds like Red-Eyed TreeFrogs and such.
Frogs captured in the wild should be a frog that you KNOW, otherwise you take the risk of not knowing the proper temperatures, diet, etc. I often am asked about frogs that naturally appeared in an outdoor pond where weather patterns lead to pond ice-overs. I don't think it's a good idea to "save" frogs from an environment where they naturally occurred in the first place. I suspect that the types of frogs that appear in such climates probably hibernate in the colder months.
Frogs that get FAT, like Horned (Pacman) frogs, Budgettes Toads, and Bullfrogs can get to be pretty boring as pets for the beginner. The Budgettes toad can also pack a good wallop of a bite when it's full grown, so watch those fingers! This doesn't mean you absolutely should not get some of these for pets, (Pac Man Frogs, for example, while somewhat "boring" to some, are also very hearty and not as prone to the usual frailties of other types of frogs) but I'd really think carefully about how long you're going to retain interest in this type of frog before you've made any sort of commitment by going out and getting such a pet....
Frogs Species list :
courtesy to : www.animal-world.com
Species list which suitable for Paludariums :
1-Budgett's Frog
Hippo Frog, Freddie Kruger Frog
Family: Leptodactylidae
Lepidobatrachus laevis
The Budgett's Frogs, though very cute frogs, are quite aggressive and will bite!
The Budgett's Frog lepidobatrachus laevis is an adorable looking frog. It has a wide comical face and a body that seems entirely too large for its legs. These surprising characteristics have led to a common name for the Budgett's, which aptly describes these funny frogs, the "Hippo Frog".
As darling as it appears however, the Budgett's Frog is one of those cute frogs that will not hesitate to bite. It has its mind on one thing, food. It has a big mouth and can eat large prey. Then once it grabs ahold of something it doesn't like to let go. Their chomp and hold attitude has won them the nickname "Freddie Kruger Frogs", both in their native home of Argentina and in the pet trade.
The Budgett's Frog is recommended as a good pet for the intermediate to advanced frog keeper. Though sporadically bred since the 1990's, it is just now becoming more readily available at shows, expos, and some pet stores. It was first imported from Argentina and Paraguay, but also occurs in Bolivia. This is one of the Leptodactylid Frogs that is proving to be an interesting and unusual pet frog.
Scientific Name: Lepidobatrachus laevis
Habitat: Distribution/Background:
The Budgett's Frog Lepidobatrachus laevis was first described by Budgett in 1899. The Budgett's Frog occurs naturally in Argentina, Bolivia, and Paraguay. Other common names for the Budgett's Frog are the Hippo Frog and the Freddie Kruger Frog.
Status:
The Lepidobatrachus laevis is on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species as Least Concern (LC).
At its current levels, the Budgett's Frog is not considered to be threatened by the pet trade. It is common in the northern portion of its range but is rare and declining in Argentina. The exact reasons for its decline are unknown, but may be affected by fires and over-grazing by livestock. Habitat destruction for agriculture is also a threat in Argentina.
Description :
The Budgett's Frog resembles a squashed, bumpy pancake. Though not reaching more than 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) in length, this frog more than makes up for its short length in its width. This frog is a wonder to look at with an olive green background coloring, patterned with splotches of tans and darker greens, and has webbed hind feet.
In the juvenile stage the color is not as bright, but its long comical mouth will more than amuse you until it reaches that bright shade of olive green. Babies cannot be visually sexed, but as adults the male's throat is dark and on a female it is gray or whitish. The female is also the larger sex. They can live for more than 5 years.
Food and Feeding :
As with a lot of other frogs, the Budgett's Frog will eat crickets (and small mice as adults), but they are semi-aquatic and so have also branched into the world of fish. All items offered as food should be dusted with a calcium and mineral supplement, as these frogs are sensitive to metabolic bone disease, a deadly softening of the bones.
The larger your frog grows, the larger prey items you can begin to offer. If you do try and feed even a small mouse, kill the prey item before you offer it to your frog. A live mouse can do a lot of damage to your frog before getting eaten. Very small mice, fed only once a month or less, are recommended.
Housing :
A ten to twenty gallon aquarium is well-suited for the Budgett's Frog. Smooth river rocks are the best substrate to fill the bottom of the aquarium. Regular aquarium gravel, often sold for fish, can cause digestive problems for the frog if they are ingested accidentally with prey. The river stones are larger and smooth and don't run the risk of being ingested.
The rocks in the enclosure should have a sloping design, producing a large area for the frog to get out of the water, but providing an equally large area of water for the frog to occupy. A twenty gallon long is the ideal size to accomplish this design. The water placed in the tank and used to rinse the river rocks should be decholrinated with any of the many commercially available products.
The Budgett's Frog will do just fine at room temperature, between about 72{deg} - 84{deg} F is acceptable.
Cage Care :
For proper Budgett's Frog care, absolute cleanliness cannot be stressed enough when dealing with these frogs. Budgett's frogs absorb almost all of their moisture through their skin. If they are allowed contact with chemicals, bacteria-ridden water, or other dangerous substances, this is then absorbed into their skin, which could easily cause disease. The gravel should be thoroughly rinsed weekly. Water bowls should be changed at least every other day.
Behavior :
These frogs are carnivorous and, indeed, cannibalistic. If presented with any other frog smaller than themselves, or cramped for room, they wouldn't think twice about eating their 'companion'. If you choose to keep two frogs together, double the space you provide, make sure that both frogs are about the same size, and keep them well fed.
Handling :
These frogs are not the easiest to handle and their bite is quite painful. If you are new to frogs, it might be easiest to simply set the frog up and watch if you're worried about catching a bite. These frogs don't like to let go once they've grabbed you, though they eventually will.
Handling is not highly recommended, though any person with experience handling horned toads (Ceratophrysspecies) and their relatives, would not have as much trouble. Visit your local pet store for more information for handling the Budgett's Frog and to see an example of one of these amazing frogs for yourself.
Reproduction :
The Budgett's Frog is considered a more difficult frog to breed due to the difficulty in rearing the young in captivity. Though a female may be sexually mature by about one year, it is best to wait until she is two years of age before breeding.
A female Budgett's Frog can lay up to 1,500 eggs and they have quite an explosive development. The eggs will hatch within just two days of being laid. The tadpoles also grow quickly and will metamorphose into a frog in just two weeks. They are aggressive carnivores and will even eat their siblings whole. They may be induced to eat fish and worms but can be difficult to raise and need considerable calcium.
Diseases: Ailments/Treatments :
The Budgett's Frog is very hardy, but as with all frog species health and hygiene go hand in hand. Providing a proper environment and keeping it clean is the best way to keep a happy healthy frog. "Redleg", an infection withAeromonas, is caused by poor water quality or dirty substrate.
Along with many other frogs, Budgett's Frogs are highly prone to metabolic bone disease. Especially with their large size and lightening fast growth rate, it is essential that these frogs get all the calcium you can get into them. We suggest dusting their prey items lightly with a mix of 1/3 calcium (with D3) and 2/3 multivitamins once every other to every third feeding.
Availability:
The Budgett's Frog has been bred sporadically by frog breeders since the early 1990s but are not commonly available, even today. Luckily they are becoming more common at shows and expos, and at pet stores that carry a variety of amphibians.
References
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Animal-World Resources: Reptiles, Amphibians, and Land Invertebrates
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R.D. Bartlett and Patricia P. Bartlett, Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs, Barron's Educational Series, Inc. 1996
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David Alderton, Petkeepers Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians. Tetra Press, 1986
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Johann Krottlinger, Keeping Reptiles & Amphibians,.T.F.H. Publications, Inc. 1993.
2-Red Eyed Tree Frog
Red-eyed Treefrog, Red Eyed Leap Frog
Family: Hylidae
Agalychnis callidryas
The beautiful Red Eyed Tree Frog is on of the most sought after of the hybrid frogs!
The Red Eyed Tree Frog Agalychnis callidryas is one of the most popular pet frogs. It has a light green body with blue banding on the sides, interspersed with white, though it can change its color to blend in with the substrate. However, its most notable characteristic are the bright red eyes that its common name is derived from. Another common name, though less frequently used, is the Red Eyed Leap Frog.
These cute frogs are not hard to keep as long as their needs are met. They become active at night and are thus awake when the family is home from school and work. They are funny frogs, always fascinating to watch, but it is especially exciting to witness their color changes. They turn from shades of light green to dark brown, matching their surrounding environment, when they are hunting.
The Red Eyed Tree Frog is an excellent pet frog for beginners and experienced frog owners alike. They were first imported prior to the middle or late 1980s, generally from Honduras. There are suspected to be more than one species, possibly up to three, though the genetic research is pending.
Scientific Name : Agalychnis callidryas
Habitat: Distribution/Background :
The Red Eyed Tree Frog Agalychnis callidryas was first described by Cope in 1862. The Red Eyed Tree Frogs are found naturally from Central America to Mexico, most notably in Honduras. They are native to Belize, Colombia, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, and Panama. They live in tropical forests and move from tree to tree, staying somewhat low to the ground, where they return every night to hunt. They will almost always be found near a water source. Other common names they are known by include Red-eyed Treefrog, Red Eyed Leap Frog, and Red-eyed Leapfrog.
Status :
The Agalychnis callidryas is on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species as Least Concern (LC). The Red Eyed Tree Frog is generally considered to be an abundant species.
Description :
The most striking characteristic of the Red Eyed Tree Frog is obviously their red eyes. The body is a light green in color with blue banding on the sides, interspersed with white. The feet are generally yellowish. They may sometimes have white dorsal spotting. The females are the larger of the species, reaching up to 3" (7.6 cm) while the largest size for a male is 2 ¼ inches (5.7 cm).
Food and Feeding :
Crickets and house flies are two of the best foods for the Red Eyed Tree Frog. Crickets should be fed a ‘gut load' diet, readily available at most pet stores. This gives the cricket, and in turn your frog, a better diet with more vitamins, minerals, and calcium. Red Eyed Tree Frogs are sensitive to calcium and Vitamin D3 deficiencies, so these should be provided in powder form by dusting the crickets with a powdered mixture of 1/3 calcium and 2/3 vitamin powder every third or fourth time they are fed.
Housing :
The smallest suggested enclosure size for a single frog or a pair of Red Eyed Tree Frogs is a twenty gallon ‘tall' aquarium. These frogs are arboreal, or tree-dwelling, and need the height rather than the length in an enclosure. Orchid bark or a coconut-fiber based substrate work best.
Ventilation is also important for the frogs and balancing ventilation and humidity can be complicated. You can cover part of the screen top with plastic wrap, or cover part of the top with a thin towel. Some handy keepers have even mounted a small computer fan on top of their tree frog enclosures to introduce a steady airflow into the cage.
These frogs enjoy many plants, vines, and limbs to climb on, as their natural environment is a forest. Some common plants that would readily be accepted by your frog are Philodendron, peace lilies, Pothos, prayer-plants, Sanseveriaspecies, and bromeliads. These should be kept in their own pots buried in the substrate. Climbing branches at suitable widths (the width of your frog's body or larger) should be available at your local pet store.
If you wish to provide lighting for your frog, a fluorescent light will be best. Fluorescent lighting will help to set a day/night schedule as well as to help with calcium absorption and UV exposure, though it is currently under debate as to whether these frogs need the exposure or not.
Temperature and Humidity requirements:
The substrate should be kept damp and the cage should be misted three times a week. The humidity in the cage should be kept between 30 to 50% during the non-breeding season. If trying to create breeding conditions, you can raise the humidity to 80%, but constant exposure to this high humidity can result in health complications for your frog.
These frogs do well in temperatures between 65° to 85° F, though specimens kept at either extreme for suspended lengths of time can suffer health problems. It is best to keep the temperature at a happy medium of 70° to 75° F.
If your house is particularly cool, a low wattage (20 to 40-watt) daytime bulb can be useful, though a thermometer should be used to monitor the average temperature of the cage to make sure it does not get too hot. Some incandescent bulbs can heat up a glass enclosure very quickly and dangerously. Heat also lessens humidity as the water evaporates, so you may need to mist more often with a heat bulb in use.
Cage Care :
Any and all water provided for your frog should have chlorine and chloramines removed. Both of these chemicals are often used in local water treatments. You can use a dechlorinator or purchase purified or distilled water. Some dedicated frog keepers have even set up home RO systems (reverse osmosis) to provide purified water for their frogs. Water should be provided in a bowl for your frog.
The water bowl needs to be cleaned daily, as that is where the bulk of the urination and defecation will occur. Any other feces should be scooped out or scraped from the glass daily. The cage should be misted two to three times a week, depending on the relative humidity of the cage. This is easily determined by keeping a humidity reader in the cage.
Behavior :
These frogs do well alone, in pairs, or in colonies. They get along well with each other and provided the cage is large enough, there will be no aggression problems. For more than two frogs, a 55-gallon tank is recommended. You can go with a different size tank (such as a hexagon), as it will provide more height, which is an essential factor for these tree frogs.
Red Eyed Tree Frogs become active mainly at night. They will climb down to the bottom of the cage to get time by the water bowl and also to hunt. Sometimes, the frog will change its color to blend in with the substrate to aide in hunting, turning a dark brown.
Handling :
These tree frogs do not normally jump, preferring a hand over hand motion of moving. However, their leaps can be quite large if they are startled. It is always better to handle your new frog over its cage until you know how it will react to your presence. As these animals absorb substances through their skin, it is vitally important that you wash your hands before and after handling the frog, for its own safety and for yours.
Reproduction :
If you wish to initiate breeding, you should first have a pair, male and female. Only the males vocalize, so that along with the size difference of the sexes, is an easy way separate the sexes.
Raise the average humidity and make sure that there are plenty of leaves available DIRECTLY OVER a water source, rather large in area. The leaves should be no more than two to four inches above the water source. The female, once approached by the male, will deposit her eggs in a gelatinous substance on the underside of a leaf over the water source. The male will then fertilize the eggs.
Once the eggs mature, the tadpoles will wriggle out of the egg sac and fall directly into the water. The clutches can contain between 20 to 75 eggs, depending on the size and age of the female. A female can deposit up to three or four clutches of eggs in a single night. Temperatures should be kept between 78° to 85° F for ideal hatching, which occurs between five and eleven days.
The tadpole stage lasts between 40 to 60 days. It is critical that the water is kept clean, aerated, and that the tadpoles are offered food in the form of flake fish food, soaked leaves, and live aquarium algae and moss. Once the tadpoles metamorphose to the froglet stage, they will have an insatiable appetite. You should feed them wingless fruit flies and pinhead crickets on a high calcium gut load and dusted with calcium powder every other feeding, as they are prone to MBD (metabolic bone disease) at this stage.
More information about breeding : click here
Diseases: Ailments/Treatments :
Along with many other frogs, Red Eyed Tree Frogs are highly prone to metabolic bone disease. It is particularly important that you gut-load their feeders with a mixed, high-quality diet and that the feeder insects are lightly dusted with a calcium and vitamin powder every other feeding.
Availability :
These frogs are readily available at many pet stores. Depending on the size and age, they can range in price between $20 and $50.
References
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Animal-World Resources: Reptiles, Amphibians, and Land Invertebrates
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R.D. Bartlett and Patricia P. Bartlett, Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs, Barron's Educational Series, Inc. 1996
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David Alderton, Petkeepers Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians. Tetra Press, 1986
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Philipe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready, Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs, Advanced Vivarium Systems, INC., 1997.
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Johann Krottlinger, Keeping Reptiles & Amphibians,.T.F.H. Publications, Inc. 1993.
Red Eyed Green Tree Frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) Mating in Costa Rica (2002)
3-White's Tree Frog
Dumpy Tree Frog, Smiling Frog, Australian Green Tree Frog
Family: Hylidae
Litoria caerulea
The White's Tree Frog is a cute frog with bulging eyes, and has the most laid back personality!
The White's Tree Frog Litoria caerulea is one of the most laid back animals there is. It is said that it would take purposeful effort on your part to startle one of these adorably cute frogs. One of the most intriguing acts of the White's Tree Frog is when are eating. These funny frogs seem to become all legs and elbows as they stuff their food into their mouths with their front feet.
The White's Tree Frog is a close relative of the White-Lipped Tree Frog. At first glance these two tree frogs seem very much alike appearance but there are a few differences between these "cousins" that are obvious. The White-Lipped Tree Frog is a slightly larger frog and its supratympanalridges are not as well-developed as they are on the White's Tree Frog. Also in temperament, the White-Lipped a little moodier than the White's Tree Frog. It is a little jumpier, more nervous, and just not as laid back.
This frog is very easy to take care of, and it makes it an excellent pet. Unlike many of their relatives, including its close 'cousin' the White-Lipped Tree Frog, the White's Tree Frog is not big on jumping, and will generally only do so when startled. They are an excellent first frog for beginning keepers; even for children, with help from their parents to oversee feeding and occasional misting.
Scientific Name : Litoria caerulea
White's Tree frog Litoria caerulea was first described by White in 1790. These frogs are found in Australia. They are arboreal (tree) frogs and are found almost exclusively in the trees except in the breeding season, when they descend to the water sources. They are known by a number of common names including White's Tree Frog, Dumpy Tree Frog, White's Dumpy Tree Frog, Blue Dumpy Tree Frog, Smiling Frog, Smiling Tree Frog, Australian Green Tree Frog, Australian White's Tree Frog, and simply Green Tree Frog (though not to be confused with the American Green Tree Frog Hyla cinerea).
Originally from Australia, some of the first White's Tree Frogs were exported to the United States in the 1950s. In the early 1970s, these hardy frogs were back in the United States, where herp enthusiasts seized the opportunity to breed them. White's were commonly bred by a few top herpetoculturists in the late 1980s but seemed to disappear from the hobby until just a few years ago when breeding programs were reestablished with animals raised from the early days and probably from animals arriving from Australia illegally and from breeders in Europe.
True White's Tree Frogs are still considered to be rare, but now they are appearing more frequently in pet stores.
Status:
The Litoria caerulea is on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species as Least Concern (LC). The White's Tree Frog has a wide distribution and is adapted to many different habitats.
Description :
The normal coloration of a White's Tree Frog is a jade green. The females are the larger of the species, reaching around 4.5 inches, out-sizing the males by around an inch. They have supratympanal ridges that will form over their eyes, giving them a comical expression. The juvenile frogs' supratympanal ridges are not as developed as those of the adult.
Although caerulea means dark blue, that is not the true color of the White's Tree Frog. A blue color can be achieved by keeping frogs in darkened terrariums or feeding them prey insects deficient of beta-carotene (although this diet may encourage anemia). Breeders are breeding for color and there are actual blue specimens and some are beginning to appear that have more white coloration.
White's Tree Frogs have a long life span of around twenty years, though it is probable that a 25 year old frog could exist. As with almost every frog, these frogs start out as tadpoles.
Food and Feeding :
The White's Tree Frogs are not picky eaters. They will eat many insects as well as crickets, soft (post molt) mealworms, pinky mice (occasionally only), and even other frogs. When feeding crickets it is important to ‘gut load' them. Many people buying crickets remark that they die shortly upon coming home. This is because the crickets also need food and water to survive.
The best diet for feeder crickets is one rich in variety and calcium. This can include Greenleaf lettuce, redleaf lettuce, romaine lettuce, carrot tops, shredded carrots, squash, apple, and more. Most cricket ‘water bites' also contain calcium. A commercial gut load is also available. The goal should be to fill the crickets to the brim with vitamins and minerals that your frog will receive upon digestion. This actually makes your frog healthier. "You are what you eat". If possible, dust the crickets with a mixture containing 1/3 calcium powder containing Vitamin D3 and 2/3 high-quality multi-vitamin powder. (The D3 is the ‘sunshine' vitamin and is necessary for the ability to use the calcium coming into the body.You could feed all of the calcium in the world but the frog can't use it without D3.
Housing :
For a relatively laid back adult, a 20-gallon ‘high' tank will suffice, but a single specimen or pair would be better off in a 29 to 30-gallon tank. The species is arboreal (tree-dwelling) and loves to have the height. Any branches (and there should be many) should be about the same width as the frog, as they are not agile and the bigger the branch is, the easier it is to hold on to. A favorite is giant bamboo. The cage needs to be well-ventilated, but escape-proof, so it will require a screen lid. Suitable substrates include cypress mulch, commercial forest bedding, plain potting soil (without perlite or vermiculite), or a peat moss type litter.
They need a SHALLOW water bowl; these frogs have been known to drown in deep water bowls. Keep in mind that they spend time in trees rather than in the water. You can mist the cage three times a week or so as well, as many will lick the water off of the tank walls and it also helps with cleanliness.
White's do best at a temperature from 76-85{deg} F. You can achieve this with a low wattage day time bulb, no higher than fifty watts (depending on the size of your enclosure), with perches at varying heights so that the frog can move toward the light or away from the light to a place where it is comfortable.
See the terrarium set-ups described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information on housing.
Cage Care :
Through copious defecation and the habit of smearing their mucous coat, a White’s Tree Frog can dirty up its cage rather quickly. To keep the cage clean, misting daily can help, but once every week or two, mist the cage with purified or distilled water and wipe it down with a clean rag to get the mucous coat off of the side of the aquarium.
Behavior :
White's Tree Frogs do well alone, in pairs, or even in large groups, provided that there is enough space for them all. They are easily handled and do not jump unless startled, which is pretty hard to do. They do well with children and adults alike and can be handled with ease. Because of the secretion of mucous, it is recommended that you wash your hands before and after handling.
Handling :
They are easily handled and do not jump unless startled, which is pretty hard to do. The White's Tree Frog will do well with children and adults alike and can be handled with ease. Because of the secretion of mucous, it is recommended that you wash your hands before and after handling.
Reproduction :
Breeding White's Tree Frogs involves hibernating them for about 6 weeks followed by a 2 - 4 week period of feeding them and maintaining them at their optimal temperature just prior to breeding. You must also prepare a large aquarium for the breeding and tadpole raising to take place. While the aquarium is cycling you can prepare your frogs for breeding.
- Preparing the Aquarium:
You need to have a well-cycled aquarium of at least 100 gallons. Preparing the aquarium is relatively easy to do. Be sure to use dechlorinated water. It is easy to do this by setting up a large tank, maybe three quarters of the way full, and putting in feeder goldfish. The aquarium will be 'cycled' and ready for the frogs when there are no longer any harmful substances, such as ammonia and nitrites in the water. This usually takes about six weeks. There are test kits that you can purchase to test your pH, ammonia, and nitrite. As far as the range goes, pH should be from 6.8 to 7.2, while ammonia and nitrite should be at zero. For information on cycling the aquarium see: Cycling Your Aquarium.
Once the water is established, add a submersible heater to keep the water in the 80{deg} to 85{deg} F. This will be ideal for the tadpoles as they grow.
Provide plenty of aquatic plants, such as anacharis, Amazon swords, micro swords, crypts, wisteria, or others, as well as a floating dock of sorts for the frogs.
You also need to set up a rain chamber. This can be as simple as a large plastic box with many holes poked in the bottom, connected to PVC pipe with water running through.
- Preparing the frogs:
While you are preparing your tank, you can cool the adult frogs for a few weeks to prepare them for breeding. To hibernate your frogs, take two specimens of different genders that are healthy, at a good weight, and are in their second year or older (which is when they reach sexual maturity). Make sure that they have defecated from their last meal before you begin the cooling process. Cooling with feces in their digestive system can prove fatal.
You will want to keep them at temperatures of around 65{deg} F with half of their screen top covered. You can keep them at these temperatures for as many as 16 hours a day. Keep the aquarium dark and offer no food at this time. You need to keep your frogs on this schedule for six weeks prior to breeding them. If at any time you see any signs of illness (eyes are not clear and bright, drastic weight loss, etc.), remove the frogs from artificial hibernation and slowly warm them up to room temperature.
- Breeding and the tadpoles:
To induce breeding, place the prepared frogs into the aquarium. You will want to keep the rain chamber running six to ten hours at night once the frogs are introduced. Breeding will occur in the ‘dry' periods when the rain chamber is not running.
It may take two to five days for breeding. Once breeding has occurred, remove the parents.There could be one thousand or more eggs that will hatch into tadpoles in 24 to 36 hours. The tadpoles will hover at the bottom of the tank but will become active within another 24 to 36 hours. Provide natural light if possible. If natural light is not a possibility, provide full-spectrum fluorescent lighting in a shoplight mounted 12-18" overhead.
After the third or fourth day, you can start feeding a high quality fish food. You want there to be no more than 15 tadpoles to one gallon of water. Keep a very close eye on your water quality, preferably checking it at least once a day. The first metamorphed frogs will appear at around four weeks but some will morph much later.
The biggest challenge in breeding White's Tree Frogs is the maintenance for hundreds or thousands of frogs, their food and caging requirements, and keeping crowding under control.
Diseases: Ailments/Treatments:
The White's Tree Frog is very hardy, but as with all frog species health and hygiene go hand in hand. Frogs absorb most of their moisture through their skin. Pathogens from contaminated water or feces will also readily be absorbed. Providing a proper environment and keeping it clean is the best way to keep a happy healthy frog.
Some of most common problems encountered by frogs include a bacterial disease called 'Redleg', intestinal impaction from ingesting sand or gravel when eating, blindness, fungal infections, Metalic Bone Disease (MBD) from insufficient calcium and vitamin D3, endoparacites, and stress. These can be avoided with proper care and nutrition, and a good clean environment.
Availability:
White's Tree Frogs are becoming more readily available and can be purchased for anywhere between $20 and $50, depending on size.
References:
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Animal-World Resources: Reptiles, Amphibians, and Land Invertebrates
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R.D. Bartlett and Patricia P. Bartlett, Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs, Barron's Educational Series, Inc. 1996
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David Alderton, Petkeepers Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians. Tetra Press, 1986
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Philipe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready, Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs, Advanced Vivarium Systems, INC., 1997.
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Johann Krottlinger, Keeping Reptiles & Amphibians,.T.F.H. Publications, Inc. 1993.
4-White-Lipped Tree Frog
Giant Tree Frog
Litoria infrafrenata
The adorable White-Lipped Tree Frog, true to its name, has a bright white lower lip!
The White-Lipped Tree Frog Litoria infrafrenata not only has a white lip, but it is the largest tree frog in the world. thus it is also called the Giant Tree Frog. This tree frog's body is a usually a bright leaf green, which makes for a striking contrast to its white lip, and the skin on its sides have a rather granular appearance. A healthy tree frog can also change its color, turning an olive brown shade which helps to camoflauge it when hunting.
The White-Lipped Tree Frog is a close relative of the White's Tree Frog. These two tree frogs are very similar in appearance but there are a few modifications. The similarities between these "cousins" are obvious. The White-Lipped Tree Frog is a slightly larger frog and its supratympanalridges are not as well-developed as they are on the White's Tree Frog.
This is a very nice frog for the advanced beginner to intermediate frog keeper. Although this Giant Tree Frog is a relative of the White's Tree Frog, it has a personality all its own. It is a little moodier than the White's Tree Frog. It is a little jumpier and more nervous than the White's too, but it is a joy to keep.
Scientific Name : Litoria infrafrenata
Habitat: Distribution/Background :
The White-Lipped Tree Frog Litoria infrafrenata was first described by Gunther in 1867. It is found in Queensland, northern Australia, Indonesia, and Papua New Guinea and many of the nearby islands. Other common names they are known for are Giant Tree Frog. It has a very wide distribution and in a broad range of habitats from tropical rainforests, wet forests, to woodlands during the monsoons, and also in modified environments. These frogs can be found in gardens and parks, fields, along roadsides, and various forests.
Status :
The Litoria infrafrenata is on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species as Least Concern (LC). The White-Lipped Tree Frog has a wide distribution and is adapted to many different habitats.
Description :
The White-Lipped Tree Frogs are generally 3.5 to 5" (9 - 13 cm) with the females being the largest. There is no definite way to sex this species, which is why they are not one of the most successfully bred species in captivity. They have quite a long life span, living over 10 years in the wild.
As the name would suggest, this frog has a white lower lip. The rest of the body is generally a bright green, though low temperature, stress, and other adverse conditions could change this color. Healthy frogs themselves can change from olive-brown to bright leaf green. The skin appears almost granular, with this effect being seen most often on the sides of the frog.
Food and Feeding :
These frogs, true to their similarity to the White's tree frog, are great feeders. The Giant Tree Frog will eat gut-loaded or mineral-dusted crickets, soft (post molt) giant meal worms, and even house flies. Be careful about catching your feed insects from the wild as there is too great a chance that they've dredged themselves through insecticides, pesticides, or fertilizers, all of which could kill your new frog. Wild caught insects could also house internal parasites that are harmful to your pet frog. Feeder insects are inexpensive and readily available from your local pet store.
A shallow water bowl should be kept in the cage at all times and should be changed daily with dechlorinated water. The cage should be misted every night as well, as this will provide another water source and will help to keep the humidity level raised.
Housing :
For an adult frog, a twenty gallon ‘high' aquarium will do nicely. The Giant Tree Frogs are arboreal (tree-dwelling) frogs and need to have vines and branches to climb about on. The branches should be about the same width as the frog so it is easier for the frog to hold on. The cage needs to be well-ventilated so a screen top rather than a solid top is needed. Suitable substrates include cypress mulch, peat moss, and plain potting soil (without perlite or vermiculite).
A 50-watt daytime bulb is highly recommended as this will provide the extra heat that the White-Lipped Tree Frogs need in deference to the White's Tree Frog. Place perches at varying heights so that the frog can stay where it is comfortable.
Cage Care :
The White-Lipped Tree Frogs can mess up their cage rather quickly, though they seem to be cleaner than the White's Tree Frogs in similar enclosures. Still, misting will help to reduce the amount of cage cleaning and, when you do need to clean the cage, you can use any approved cleaner that can be found at your local pet store.
Behavior :
As sexing the White-Lipped Tree Frogs is difficult, there really are no particular boundaries for how many frogs you can have together. Just be sure that you provide enough space, perches, water, and general room for the frogs to breathe and grow. They will get along well enough with humans. They are, however, a little jumpier and more nervous than the White's tree frog. This is a very nice frog for the advanced beginner to intermediate frog keeper.
Handling :
As with most amphibians, too much handling can stress these frogs out. It is important to always wash your hands before and after handling these frogs. Also, try to only take your croaking friend out at a maximum of once a day, preferably only every other day, for sessions lasting only five to ten minutes.
Reproduction :
In the wild, the White-Lipped Tree Frogs reproduce in the spring and summertime in deep, slow moving streams and in forest pools, as well as in human modified areas like ditches and pools.
In captivity, temperatures in the lower 70s, combined with a reduced photo period for six to eight weeks, cycles these frogs and prepares them for the mating season. After this cooling period, a warm-up to standard terrarium temperatures and increased humidity with extra misting can lead to courtship and breeding in these frogs.
As with many tropical frogs, eggs are laid in the water by the female and fertilized externally by the male. The tadpoles develop in water, feeding on detritus and bits of leaves, aquatic plants, and algae. Depending on the temperature, the small frogs metamorphose and make their way onto land and into the treetops they call home.
Diseases: Ailments/Treatments
The White-Lipped Tree Frog is very hardy, but as with all frog species health and hygiene go hand in hand. Providing a proper environment and keeping it clean is the best way to keep a happy healthy frog.
The only thing that captive tree frogs seem to commonly suffer from is metabolic bone disease, which can easily be prevented by a diet that adds an appropriate amount of calcium. Using a high-calcium dust to coat crickets once every third or fourth feeding will help prevent MBD. Using a food source that is rich in calcium (Greenleaf lettuce, carrot tops, romaine lettuce, shredded vegetables, and commercial cricket diets) to gut load your crickets before feeding can help to prevent and in some cases even correct this problem.
Availability
The White-Lipped Tree Frog is becoming more readily available for anywhere between $20 and $70.
References
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Animal-World Resources: Reptiles, Amphibians, and Land Invertebrates
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R.D. Bartlett and Patricia P. Bartlett, Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs, Barron's Educational Series, Inc. 1996
-
David Alderton, Petkeepers Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians. Tetra Press, 1986
-
Philipe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready, Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs, Advanced Vivarium Systems, INC., 1997.
-
Johann Krottlinger, Keeping Reptiles & Amphibians,.T.F.H. Publications, Inc. 1993.
