PACMAN FROGS ( Horned Frogs ):
The Pac-Man frog is also known as the horned frog.
Pac-Man Frogs (Ceratophrys ornata)
Pac-Man frogs come in a variety of color forms and are known by many common names (Argentine horned frogs, ornate horned frogs, horned frogs). Wild-caught imports continue to come in, but captive-bred Pac-Man frogs are readily available through many online vendors as well as at most brick-and-mortar pet stores. Due to their forgiving nature, ease of care, and the availability of captive-bred specimens, Pac-Man frogs make great pets.
Pac-Man Frog Size :
Captive-bred baby Pac-Man frogs are sold at around the size of a quarter, and these frogs can reach adult size in one to one and a half years. Adult males are smaller (2½ inches to 4 inches in length depending on the species) than female Pac-Man frogs, which can reach lengths of 4 inches to 7 inches.
Pac-Man Frog Life Span
Under optimal conditions, Pac-Man frogs can live approximately 15 years in a captive environment.
Pac-Man Frog Caging
Pac-Man frogs are sit-and-wait predators. They spend the majority of their time burrowed into the substrate with their eyes (and horns in some species) above the substrate. Because of this, caging does not need be spacious. Babies can be kept in small, plastic reptile enclosures, whereas adults can be caged in enclosures of 10 to 20 gallons.
Pac-Man frogs love to burrow. Therefore they require a substrate that they can dig in to. Coir (ground coconut) makes a great substrate and is available at most pet stores. This substrate should remain damp, but not soaking wet. Many people recommend keeping a water bowl in with the Pac-Man frog. I have kept Pac-Mans with and without water bowls. As long as you keep the substrate moist, a water bowl isn’t a necessity.
It is widely circulated that Pac-Man frogs need temperatures in the 75 to 85 degree Fahrenheit range. While this is true of their natural environment, Pac-Man frogs spend the majority of their time buried in the cool ground. In captive environments the substrate doesn’t provide the same protection due to lack of depth and the ability for air to move under the tank. Therefore, normal room temperatures of 65 to 85 degrees are recommended. Pac-Man frogs will also use hiding spots, so they should be provided. Live plants, such as Pothos, not only provide hiding spots but also help to process feces and CO2.
Pac-Man Frog Food :
One quality that sets Pac-Man frogs apart from other frogs is their voracious appetite. A staple of crickets and/or roaches is best, but they can also eat fish, worms and even small mice. The amount of food you feed them is based on the size and temperature of the frog. If allowed to cool down and dry out a little bit, Pac-Man frogs can enter a brumation state where they will refuse food. The best gauge for how much to feed your Pac-Man frog is to study your Pac-Man frog’s appearance. You want your Pac-Man to be round. If your frog is looking unnaturally large, cut back on the feeding. In nature Pac-Man frogs gorge themselves when food is plentiful to compensate for when food is scarce.
Pac-Man frogs have teeth, and large Pac-Man frogs can and will draw blood if you stick your hand in front of them. As with all frogs, handling should occur only when absolutely necessary, as their skin is very sensitive.
Juvenile Horned Frogs should be fed daily, with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements added to the meal 2 to 3 times a week. Juveniles will eat small earthworms, pinkie mice, crickets and waxworms.
Adult horned frogs can handle larger prey items such as earthworms, locusts, crickets, cockroaches, mealworms, fuzzie to large mice, feeder fish, slugs and snails. Adults should be given supplements a least once a week.
Culturing your own food source is an interesting part of being an amphibian keeper. Earthworms, mealworms and crickets are all relatively easy to culture and simple to keep. Please see the 'Culturing Live Food' section on the forum for tips on how to set up your own live food source.
Things to consider before purchasing your first Amphibian
-Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
- Can you obtain its food easily from your local pet shop?
- Would you be comfortable feeding live insects as food?
- Are you comfortable having live food in the house to feed your pet?
- Is the rest of the family happy to live with an amphibian?
Temperament :
Horned Frogs are great first amphibians for beginners, because they are relatively easy to care for. They are also a very hardy species, so it is unlikely that your pet will become ill.
The only thing to worry about with Horned Frogs is their predatory tendencies. They will generally eat anything that moves, including other Horned Frogs, so should be kept singularly.
They can be aggressive, so be careful where you put your fingers. If they mistake your hand for food they have a very powerful jaw and grip, so it can be quite painful to experience.
If you are bitten by your Horned Frog it is unadvisable to pull your hand away from the bite as you can damage to your frog’s jaw that way. Holding the frog under running water should encourage your Horned Frog to let go and a simple antiseptic should be applied to the bitten area.
Pac-Man Frog Behavior:
Live Pac-Man frogs are sometimes mistaken for dead Pac-Man frogs. When their substrate dries out and/or food is scarce, the Pac-Man will encase itself in a tough outer skin to protect it from drying out. They won't move and they look like they are dead. Once rehydrated, however, they will shed this outer skin (and eat it!).
Horned frogs ( Pacman)habitat :
Horned Frogs are fairly inactive so do not need really large enclosures. They will grow quite big though so adequate space should be provided to meet your Horned Frogs needs.
A glass tank, plastic RUB (really useful box) or a terrarium make good homes for Horned Frogs. They prefer a woodland type set up within their housing.
Your terrarium should contain:
Substrate :
Coco husk, Eco-earth and fertilizer-free soil are good substrates to use, as Horned Frogs like to burrow and spend much of their time just beneath the surface of the substrate.
A simpler, but less attractive substrate is paper towels. These are cheap, fit for purpose and easy to clean if they become soiled.
Live moss, which is rooted into the substrate, can be used in your terrarium, but loose sphagnum moss should be avoided, so that there is no risk of ingestion during feeding.
Substrate should be checked regularly for defication as many Horned Frogs will dig down and deficate under the surface of the substrate.
Water :
All amphibians need fresh water daily. A large, shallow water bowl should be provided containing de-chlorinated or bottled spring water. Tap water may be used as long as it has been treated with a de-chlorinating solution such as repti-safe or aqua-safe. These will normally have added calcium which can be benificial to your frog.
Horned Frogs are not very able swimmers, so the depth of the water should be no higher than the height of your Horned Frogs mouth when at rest.
Horned Frogs like most amphibians will soak up water through their skin and since their water bowl is used as the main place to defecate it is important that it is cleaned daily.
Humidity:
All species of Horned Frog require some humidity, with Ornate Horned Frogs needing relatively higher humidity than Cranwell’s Horned Frogs that only need medium humidity.
Lightly misting the terrarium daily with de-chlorinated water in a spray bottle should suffice to keep humidity at the right level for your Horned Frog.
Ensure that between mistings the substrate remains damp, but not water logged.
A place for your Horned Frog to hide:
All amphibians require somewhere to hide and may become stressed if this is not provided. Horned Frogs prefer to hide under the substrate and will bury themselves to stay hidden. Make sure the substrate is deep enough for your Horned Frog to do this.
Live plants can be used in your aquarium, but Horned Frogs are known to burrow, so expect them to be easily uprooted.
Heat :
The ideal temperature for your Horned Frog is a temperature gradient of 24-28°C (75- 82°F).
Heat should be provided using a under tank heat mat with an appropriate thermostat. Heat mats should only cover between a third and a half of the wall or floor space to allow your Horned Frog to thermo-regulate.
Never use heat lamps or basking lamps for amphibians, as these can cause your Horned Frog to dehydrate.
It's useful to have a small thermometer on either end of the terrarium to check the temperature. One end should be around 24°C and the other around 28°C to ensure that your Horned Frog can thermo-regulate by moving around the tank.
Lighting :
Horned Frogs should be kept out of direct sunlight and a low UVB tube is generally a welcome addition to the terrarium. Not only will it allow you to view your Horned Frog better, but it will also help your Horned Frog to convert some of it’s food intake into vitamin D3. If no UVB can be provided then it is more important to ensure that your Horned Frog’s food is dusted with vitamin D3 regularly.
The exception to the UVB bulb are albino Horned Frogs. UVB should not be used in terrariums housing albino varieties. UV lighting will burn your albino Horned Frogs skin and will eventually cause blindness.
Cleaning :
Your terrarium should be completely cleaned out on a weekly basis. Your Horned Frog should be moved to a temporary tank whilst being cleaned. All substrate and décor should be removed and refreshed. Use an amphibian safe disinfectant to clean the terrarium to prevent the build up of bacteria, but always ensure that all chemicals are thoroughly rinsed away, so that there is no chance that they will harm your Horned Frog.
Handling :
Handling your Horned Frog should be avoided if at all possible.
Horned Frogs do not appreciate being handled and may become stressed or aggressive at the prospect.
All amphibians have delicate, absorbent skin and the oils and salts on our skin can cause them harm. If handling your Horned Frog is unavoidable, wearing latex gloves or washing your hands beforehand is advised.
Horned Frogs can give a nasty bite, so be extra careful when placing your hands and fingers near your frog’s mouth during handling.
Sloughing :
Horned Frogs shed their skin at regular intervals as they grow. The old skin is pushed off with the hind legs and the skin peels off from the back end. The skin should come off in one piece and is normally eaten by the frog. The skin is pushed forwards using its legs towards the mouth.
Estivation :
Estivation is the term given to the period of hibernation that wild Horned Frogs usually go into during the cooler months. They create a cocoon from old skin that helps to seal in moisture whilst the frog buries itself in the ground to wait for the summer to come.
Your Horned Frog is unlikely to go into estivation if temperatures are controlled successfully, but if you experience a drop in temperatures or humidity within your terrarium, your Horned Frog may start to estivate.
You should not feed or disturb your Horned Frog during estavation, but fresh de-chlorinated water should always be available.
Bring your Horned Frog out of Estivation by slowly raising the temperatures or creating higher humidity over a few days. This should awaken your Horned Frog and bring them back to normal activity.
Sexing :
The easiest way to determine the sex of your Horned Frog is by listening. Males will call during the mating season. They will also develop nuptial pads and tend to have darker coloured throats.
Females are usually larger than males and usually have a more rounded body shape.
Breeding :
To stimulate your Horned Frogs to breed they will require a cooling period of two months beforehand. Reduce the temperatures and humidity and this should encourage your Horned Frogs to go into estivation. They should not be fed during this time.
Once out of estivation you will need to simulate a rainy season, by placing your Horned Frogs in a rain chamber or simply misting the terrarium a lot more frequently. Rain should be ceased once the frogs have bred and plants should be added so your female has something to attach the eggs to.
Horned Frogs can spawn between 1,000 and 2,000 eggs, which should be separated from the adults to avoid your frogs eating them. Eggs should hatch within 2 to 4 days.
Tadpoles are cannibalistic, so it is advisable to separate them if possible. If not, give the tadpoles plenty of room and hiding places to lower the rate of cannibalism. Feed them on black worms, tubifex or finely chopped earthworms daily.
Metamorphosis occurs within 3 to 5 weeks and froglets can begin eating a diet suitable for Juvenile Horned Frogs as soon as the tail is absorbed.
Recommended reading :
Horned Frog Care - Quick and Easy Guide by Allen R. Both
Quick and Easy instructions on Horned Frog Care. Covering housing, feeding, breeding and related species.
Click to find it on Amazon.co.uk
Other questions about the Horned Frog : click here to enter the Forum
Video : How to breed pacman frogs
2- STRAWBERRY
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
3-ALBINO ARGENTINE HORNED FROG
(C. cranwelli)
Generally a bright banana yellow color with ruby red eyes, these morphs are a staple of the pet trade and are commonly known as the Albino “Pac Man” frog because of their resemblance to the popular video game character of the same name.
4-SPOT PATTERNLESS
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
5-LIPSTICK
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
6- ALBINO PATTERNLESS
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
7-MINT GREEN
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
8- 3-STRIPED
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
9-TWO-FACED
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
10- 4-EYED ALBINO
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
11-APRICOT
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
12- HIGH-RED ORNATE
(Ceratophrys ornata)
13- STRAWBERRY PINEAPPLE
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
14- LEOPARD
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
15- MOSAIC
(Ceratophrys cranwelli)
16-GREEN FANTASY
(Ceratophrys cranwelli x C.cornuta)
17-BROWN FANTASY
(Ceratophrys cranwelli x C.cornuta)
18-TRI-COLOR FANTASY
(Ceratophrys cranwelli x C.cornuta)
Tomato Frog
(Dyscophus antongili, D. guineti, D. insularis)
Description:
Adults are pretty big: bigger than a person's fist. Males tend to grow to about 2 and a half inches in length, while Females can get up to 3 - 4 inches! (thats NOT nose to toes---that's body length!) Their colors may vary but most females range from reddish-orange bright dark red. The bellies are usually more yellowish, and sometimes there are black spots on the throat. Males also tend not to be as brightly colored being a duller orange or brownish-orange. Juveniles are also dull in color and develop brighter coloration as they mature.
Habitat: :
These guys need a soft substrate to burrow into. If they start to turn an icky brown color, it's generally a sign of having a pretty unhappy frog. Try getting some potting soil with no chemicals in it....They live well in temperatures from 64 up to 80F.. A regular terrestrial or half and half tank terrarium seems ideal housing, as long as there is something for them to burrow into. Ideally they should have about 6cm of a damp but not too wet base substrate mixture to dig into. This substrate can consist of pre-sterilized chopped oak and maple leaves, sphagnum moss and river sand, or you can go for some regular potting soil as long as it doesnt contain any chemicals..You can put a few large pieces of cork bark or bogwood on top and add a shallow water pan towards one corner.
Lighting should be subdued for these frogs. You should mist the vivaria once or twice daily with de-chlorinated or stale water to retain some moisture in the substrate.
Diet:
All sorts of bugs and invertebrates. Crickets, waxworms, even mice!
Habits:
Burrows into the ground and eats passing insects. They tend not to chase the food around but rather wait for a nearby movement. These guys are mostly nocturnal, so don't expect a lot of action during the daylight hours.
When spooked, these guys can inflate their body like a baloon!
Miscellaneous Facts:
The bright colors most likely serve as a warning mechanism. While not toxic, these guys can give off a yucky, sticky white mucus which is irritating to mucous membranes and may serve to ward off predators.
Tomato frogs use an "ambush" strategy to hunt for food, sitting in a particular spot and eating whatever insect walks past.
The tomato frog is found only in Madagascar and is limited to the northwest part of the island. They are primarily terrestrial, inhabiting forests areas. Their habitat is being deforested, but they apparently adapt well to living in cultivated areas and are found in gardens and eucalyptus plantations.
Tomato frogs breed during rainy season in stagnant or very slow-moving water.
Dyscophus antongilli is endangered in its native country as a result of deforestation and over-collecting for the pet trade. These types of Tomato frogs are protected under CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) Appendix I and are ILLEGAL in trade! There are two other species of tomato frogs in Madagascar, D. guineti and D. insularis, neither of which are presently endangered.
Origin : Madagascar but most are captive born
Temperature : Tropical. 75 nights, 85 days.
SizeMales : 3 inches. Females 5 inches and brighter red.
Longevity : Estimated 10 years
Substrate : Moist but clean. They show best over black.
Security : Likes to hide at first
ProtectionGenerates a gooey slime when threatened (red warning)
Foods : Insects, fish, worms, smaller frogs, smaller mice
Breeding : Eggs, tadpoles, etc.
Threats : Loss of habitat in Madagascar
Origins: On Madagascar, that strange island to the right of Africa, you’ll find a black-eyed red critter we call the tomato frog. Apparently tomato frogs are losing their habitat because of deforestation. However, these cool fist-size frogs live fairly well in proximity to humans.
Color Comments: We should call them “grocery store tomato frogs” because they’re not quite as red as home-grown tomatoes.
Predator Protection: When bitten, tomato frogs exude a nasty, gooey slime that repels would-be eaters from continuing the eating process. Their aposomatic red color supposedly telegraphs this message to potential predators.
Appeal: It’s hard not to like a red frog – especially an easy-to-keep critter with such a pleasant personality. Tomatoes are not as colorful as poison dart frogs but they are so much easier to keep alive.
Size and Sexing: Males grow to three inches. Females grow to five. If you want to sex them, the females are also redder. There’s lots of color variation in the young ones. But if you’ve had yours a year or so, they should be easily sexable.
Housing: For one tomato frog, you need a ten-gallon tank. They need clean water and a land area. Most frogs inhabit the shore line surrounding their home pond. They are on the lookout for insects or other small prey that might wander within “tongue range.” They’re also ready to leap into deeper water to escape birds and small boys.
Water: Good old Des Moines water (220 ppm) meets their needs as long as you keep it clean. An airstone filter will also add the extra humidity your tomato frog probably needs. His humidity needs depend upon how you heat his tank. If you heat with a light bulb, you definitely will have to increase his humidity level.
Eight different kinds of frogs in here. The tomato stands (or sits) out.
These three tomato frogs will eat about 50 crickets at one setting (or one hopping).
Foods: Tomato frogs slurp up crickets like a Hoover. They remind you a bit of a toad in their eating habits. They give a short hop, extend their gooey tongue, fall back on their butt, and swallow that tasty cricket. They appear to be candidates for a restricted diet plan. Be very careful mixing big frogs with little frogs.
Temperature: We keep our tomato frogs at 75 degrees 24/7. For best results (faster growth and breeding), bump them to 85 during the day. You can do this most easily with a basking (humidity reducing) light bulb. Put it on a timer.
Decor: You can keep your tomato frog over dirt, if you like messy tanks. They show well over any colors except red, orange, and brown. Unlike dirt, colored gravel will not get smeared all over the walls. Then add some jungly-looking plants.
Breeding: We haven’t bred our tomato frogs yet. They’re too darn expensive to accumulate a herd. You should see the standard frog amplexus, 1,000 to 1,500 floating eggs (definitely non-standard), resulting in filter-feeding tadpoles (also non-standard) for 30 to 45 days. Do not leave the adults in there or they will eat the froglets.
Froglet Care: We’ve had the froglets before. They eat small crickets. They would probably love wingless fruit flies.
Last Word: I do not understand why tomato frogs cost so much. They spew as many eggs as a toad. So we’ll plan to breed them this summer. Maybe few tadpoles survive? They look great over black gravel.
