8- Blue Pearl Shrimp :
Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. blue
This is a wonderful species to keep and is without a doubt a beautiful color. This is not a dark blue colored shrimp, but is a much lighter blue. Some have suggested that the Blue Pearl Shrimp should instead be called an "Ice Blue Shrimp" due to the interesting coloration of this species.
Background ;
The Blue Pearl Shrimp is directly related to the Snowball Shrimp. Both the Blue Pearl Shrimp and Snowball Shrimp were selectively bred by Ulf Gottschalk in Germany and derived from the Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis wild-type to achieve their respective coloration. The Blue Pearl Shrimp was bred over an extended period of time to slowly bring out the blue coloration. This process is very tedious and time consuming so a lot of appreciation should go into this species as well as the actual breeder.
Breeding :
Breeding occurs about once every 2 months, they carry the eggs for about 3 weeks. Generation time is about 3-5 months, depending on the temperature. There will be no breeding if the temperature is too low. Breeding the Blue Pearl Shrimp is very easy as long as the tank water is clean and there are no harmful conditions. If this species is happy and healthy than it will breed readily, almost as fast as the Red Cherry Shrimp. The Blue Pearl Shrimp requires virtually the exact same conditions as the Red Cherry Shrimp, Yellow Shrimp, and Snowball Shrimp. Please remember that the Blue Pearl Shrimp cannot be kept with any other Neocaridina Shrimp or else they will cross-breed and create an ugly hybrid shrimp.
Remember that all color morphs (selectively bred colorful shrimp) are bred to produce only their respective color, so having them cross-breed with the same genus of another species defeats the purpose of even keeping a selectively bred species. Please read the article Will These Shrimp Interbreed for more detailed information on cross breeding and hybrids. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
Appearance :
Some of the Blue Pearl Shrimp will exhibit tiny red spots along the body. This is perhaps because the blue coloration was not fully bred solid and some red coloration still remains from the wild type. Red spots do not mean that it is a hybrid. Please see the photo below for an example of the red spots. However do not be surprised at how wonderful the coloration looks in person regardless of any red spots. As with most shrimp, you have to see the Blue Pearl Shrimp in person to truly appreciate the Blue Pearl Shrimp.
Feeding :
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Sexing :
Sexing the Blue Pearl Shrimp is very easy, just like the other Neocaridina species like Red Cherry Shrimp, Snowball Shrimp, etc. The eggs of the Blue Pearl Shrimp are almost always brownish/green and the saddle is the same color, typical of Neocaridina shrimp. In the photos below you can see how the male is smaller, has less blue coloration and the "under belly" is a straight line with no curved shape. Females are much easier to identify as they are larger than the males, have a much darker blue coloration, and also have a curved underbelly.
Water Parameters :
The Blue Pearl Shrimp prefers slightly alkaline to medium-hard water but are like other Neocaridina species in that they are easily adaptable to various conditions. Temperature can range from 68F-86F. Make sure that there is enough dissolved oxygen in the water if the water is warm.
9-Blue Tiger Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis sp "blue"
The Blue Tiger Shrimp is an awesome looking shrimp. Unlike the normal Tiger Shrimp, the Blue Tiger Shrimp has blue throughout its body and has orange eyes as well. The contrast of the orange eyes to the blue body is superb. You have to seen this in person to really appreciate its beauty. This is a great species to keep but is on the more expensive side due to its rarity. Care is just like the regular Tiger Shrimp and maybe just a little more attention is needed due to the high price.
Origin and Background :
As far as the history of the Blue Tiger Shrimp, I have no idea. I am unsure how the blue coloration was developed and I also do not know how the orange eyes came about. I have heard that the blue coloration is found in the wild and perhaps the orange eyes are also a mutation found in the wild. I do know that some of my normal Tiger Shrimp have a natural blue hue to them, but I have never seen one as pronounced as the actual Blue Tiger Shrimp. I have yet to see anything close to orange eyes on a normal Tiger Shrimp.
Breeding :
The Blue Tiger Shrimp does not breed true, some offspring will have the blue coloration but some will not. All offspring will have orange eyes however. This species is not dyed in any way but t it does not produce 100% blue offspring. The non-blue offspring are simply called Orange Eyed Tiger Shrimp or sometimes called Blonde Tiger Shrimp. The exact ratio of blue:non-blue offspring is unknown. It is said that breeding both blue species will produce a higher ratio of blue offspring. Breeding this species can be difficult however. Since it is constantly inbred to achieve and keep the blue coloration, the Blue Tiger Shrimp can susceptible to desease and become vulnerable in poor water conditions. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the articleShrimp Reproduction.
Sexing :
Sexing the Blue Tiger Shrimp is very easy. Females are easy to identify as they are larger and also have a curved underbelly. As far as the differing of the intensity of the blue coloration I tend to believe that the females will be somewhat darker than the males. However I do not believe that the difference in coloration is enough to truly sex this species. Instead look for size difference and more importantly the underbelly. The saddle of a female Blue Tiger Shrimp may be virtually impossible to see due to the dark blue coloration.
Water Parameters :
The water parameters for the Blue Tiger Shrimp are typically the same as other Tiger Shrimp species. A pH around 6.5.7.5 is suitable and this species also prefers softwater. Clean water is also a must as with all other shrimp. Due to the Blue Tiger Shrimps lack of genetic diversity it can be more vulnerable to poor water conditions than other shrimp in the hobby. For some helpful information on keeping the Blue Tiger Shrimp please read the article Breeding Softwater Shrimp.
Feeding :
Feeding the Blue Tiger Shrimp is also easy but due to the delicate and expensive nature of this species some breeders feed specialized foods. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Coloration & Grading :
There are several grades of Blue Tiger Shrimp that differ as far as the intensity and/or darkness of the blue coloration. The different grades vary from Light Blue Tiger Shrimp to Dark Blue Tiger Shrimp. In my opinion it is a matter of preference to the intensity of the blue coloration you prefer. Dark Blue Tiger Shrimp are more expensive however some hobbyists prefer the lighter blue coloration over darker blue. Make sure that if you plan to purchase Blue Tiger Shrimp you have pictures sent and inspect them to determine the intensity of the blue.
In the photo below you can see the difference in coloration between the Blue Tiger Shrimp. Some are dark and some are a light blue color. All have golden eyes.
10-Brown Camo Shrimp :
Caridina sp. "Brown Camo"
The Brown Camo Shrimp is another one of the magnificent species from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Its size is comparable to that of the Cardinal Shrimp, not the largest but also not the smallest of the Sulawesi species. Its coloration is very unique. The Brown Camo Shrimp is not a beginner's species and only experienced hobbyists should attempt to keep it.
Background :
The Brown Camo Shrimp is from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Sulawesi is one of the islands encompassing the country of Indonesia. The Brown Camo Shrimp is caught in one of several lakes in Sulawesi. I highly suggest that you read the article Sulawesi Expedition for detailed information on Sulawesi as well as more information on is habitat. There are also underwater photos of the lake system and photos of the landscape.
Water Parameters :
As with all Sulawesi Shrimp it is highly recommended that you keep the Brown Camo Shrimp in a temperature of at least 78F. Anything lower can kill this species. It is also recommended that you keep this species in a tank with hard water and a ph of no less than 7.0. I keep the Brown Camo Shrimp in a tank with a pH of 7.0 and temperature of 84F.
Due to its small size you can keep the Brown Camo Shrimp in a smaller tank. I recommend a tank of at least 10 gallons. I would keep no more than 25 Brown Camo Shrimp per 10 gallons of water. Even though it is a smaller species, overcrowding can stress this shrimp.
A lot of hobbyists attempt to replicate the environment of the Brown Camo Shrimp by using rocks for aesthetics and algae surfaces.There are also those who use coral chips or similar to raise the water hardness. Sand is also a common choice to use in the aquarium.
Breeding :
The Brown Camo Shrimp has been successfully bred in captivity according to other breeders worldwide. Breeding is done in complete freshwater, no salt or brackish water is required whatsoever. The adult females carry the eggs until they hatch, producing miniature shrimp. The females carry roughly 10-15 eggs. It takes approximately 20-30 days for the eggs to hatch. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
The babies of the Brown Camo Shrimp will not show much similarities in coloration to the parents. It will take at least a week before you can truly identify the baby as coming from this species. Due to the baby's small size it is not large enough to show the coloration or pattern as the adults do. Below is a photo of a baby Brown Camo Shrimp. Notice the small red dots starting to appear.
Sexing:
Sexing of the Brown Camo Shrimp is difficult and so far no one has fully figured out how to do so with the naked eye. As far as using the principle of the other shrimps species, meaning females are larger and have a curved underbelly, does not apply to the Brown Camo Shrimp unfortunately. Males and females seem to look exactly the same. Once more information is known about properly sexing this species this page will be updated.
Appearance:
The Brown Camo Shrimp earns its name from the camouflage like appearance that its coloration has. The coloration seems to have developed to conceal it while it hides in rocks or perhaps out in the open. Males and females do not seem to have any difference in coloration or intensity. Below is a video of a Brown Camo Shrimp in action. Notice how fast the legs move as it picks the rocks for food.
Behavior :
The Brown Camo Shrimp is not a shy species at all. It seems to enjoy being out in the open frequently and is not afraid if you approach the tank. It is also a solitary shrimp, it does not gather in groups and it is uncommon to see even two together. This adds to my theory that the coloration is a protection from being seen. It seems to like being in the open because it does not fear being seen, seemingly aware that its "camouflage" works.
Feeding :
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
I feed all of the Sulawesi Shrimp, including the Brown Camo Shrimp, the same as I feed all of the other shrimp I keep. I feed mostly Shirakura food and The occasional algae water or other invert food. This species will eat at all times of the day and is not afraid of coming out into the open to feed. Below is a close-up photo of a Brown Camo Shrimp. Notice the tiny claws that it uses for feeding.
11- Cardinal Shrimp :
Caridina sp. "Cardinal"
New to the shrimp hobby, the Cardinal Shrimp is fast becoming one of the most sought after shrimp. It is magnificent in person with either a dark rose red coloration or a lighter red coloration with white dots running along the side of the shrimp. Photos do not do justice, you must see this species in person. It is not a beginner's species and only experienced hobbyists should attempt to keep this species.
Background :
The Cardinal Shrimp is from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Sulawesi is one of the islands encompassing the country of Indonesia. The Cardinal Shrimp is caught in one of several lakes in Sulawesi. I highly suggest that you read the article Sulawesi Expedition for detailed information on Sulawesi as well as more information on is habitat. There are also underwater photos of the lake system.
Water Parameters :
As with all Sulawesi Shrimp it is highly recommended that you keep the Cardinal Shrimp in a temperature of at least 78F. Anything lower can kill this species. It is also recommended that you keep this species in a tank with hard water and a ph of no less than 7.0.
I am currently keeping the Cardinal Shrimp in the same tank with a few other species from Sulawesi. The tank consists of ADA Amazonia substrate, a temperature of 84F and a pH of 7.0. Some have stated that the low ph of 7.0 due to the ADA Amazonia is not good for this species. Right now I disagree. All of the Sulawesi Shrimp that I currently house are doing very well in this setup and so far even the babies are doing very well. The babies are constantly picking away for food which is of course a good sign.
A lot of hobbyists attempt to replicate the environment of the Cardinal Shrimp by using rocks for aesthetics and algae surfaces. If you read the article Sulawesi Expedition you will notice that the Cardinal Shrimp lives in the rocks and picks at them for food. There are also those who use coral chips or similar to raise the water hardness. Sand is also a common choice to use in the aquarium.
Breeding :
Breeding is done in complete freshwater, not salt or brackish water is required whatsoever. There is no larval stage. The adult females carry the eggs until they hatch, producing miniature shrimp. There have been hobbyists that have had pregnant Cardinal Shrimp in captivity and some have had the eggs hatch successfully as well. Several breeders have had good success breeding the Cardinal Shrimp and it is apparently not as difficult as some may think.
The females carry roughly 10-15 eggs. It takes approximately 20-30 days for the eggs to hatch. The babies immediately show the same color as the adults. The growth rate of the babies is fast as well. If the tank is in good shape then the babies will grow almost as fast as some of the Neocaridina Shrimp. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
I was lucky to receive some pregnant Cardinal Shrimp from overseas. The pregnant ones from the wild hatched their eggs and now I have baby Cardinals all over the place. They are doing very well and I hope to have them grow to adulthood and reproduce in pure captivity. I will update as time progresses.
Appearance :
The Cardinal Shrimp can have different shades of red, from dark to light red. The darkness of the red coloration is variable and is not an indicator of health, sex, or anything else. The red coloration is also contrasted by white dots throughout the body. Some of the white dots appear to have a blue outline to them. One of the coolest features of the Cardinal Shrimp is its front white legs. The white legs move rapidly when the shrimp is feeding and also sets this species apart from the other Sulawesi Shrimp. The photo below show a more zoomed in look at their white legs. The video below also shows the white legs in motion.
Behavior :
The Cardinal Shrimp is not a shy species at all. It will constantly forage on the bottom and seems to prefer scraping rocks. The majority of the Cardinal Shrimp I have observed seem spend almost all of their time on the algae covered rocks or sides of the glass picking away. It is not an agressive species whatsoever and seem to enjoy other species in the same tank. Some breeders have also reported that the Cardinal Shrimp seem to be more active when Sulawesi Snails are introduced to the tank. Perhaps this makes them feel more at home with the snails found in their wild environment. They will also pick at the snails' shell.
Feeding :
I feed all of the Sulawesi Shrimp, including the Cardinal Shrimp, the same as I feed all of the other shrimp I keep. I feed mostly Shirakura food and The occasional algae water or other invert food. This species will eat at all times of the day but I believe that they prefer to eat at night when they feel safe. I have noticed that when the lights are off they will come out and eat better than when the lights are on.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Sexing:
Sexing of the Cardinal Shrimp is difficult and so far no one has fully figured out how to do so with the naked eye. The females have a saddle showing eggs underneath the carapace but the only way to actually see the saddle is with an infrared light. The outside shell of the Cardinal Shrimp is so dark that you cannot possibly see the saddle without special equipment. As far as using the principle of the other shrimps species, meaning females are larger and have a curved underbelly, does not apply to the Cardinal Shrimp unfortunately. Males and females seem to look exactly the same.
12-Crystal Red Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis sp. "Red"
One of the most popular shrimp in the hobby is the Crystal Red Shrimp, sometimes called the Red Bee Shrimp. Its coloration and difficulty is what makes this a sought after shrimp for serious breeders and novices alike. Pictures do not do the Crystal Red Shrimp justice. Once you see this species in person you will realize why so many shrimp hobbyists are in love with the Crystal Red Shrimp. Its coloration is unlike any other shrimp in the hobby. I highly recommend that all shrimp hobbyists at some point acquire this species. Please read the parameters and conditions that the Crystal Red Shrimp prefers before you decide to acquire this shrimp. Over time a grading system has developed and some grades of the Crystal Red Shrimp have become very expensive. Click the link below for more detailed information on the grading of this species.
Background :
The Crystal Red Shrimp is in fact a red mutation of the wild Bee Shrimp. In 1996, Mr. Hisayasu Suzuki of Japan discovered one of his Bee Shrimp had red stripes instead of black. He bred this species with other Bee Shrimp to produce more of the red variety. Slowly other breeders selectively bred the Crystal Red Shrimp to produce different grades and intensify the coloration. However, the Crystal Red Shrimp is not a beginner's shrimp. You must have prior experience with other hobby shrimp in order to step into the realm of the Crystal Red Shrimp. The care and nature of this species requires much more attention to detail, not to mention the expensive price that this shrimp carries. You do not want to make a mistake due to inexperience with the Crystal Red Shrimp and have it cost you a lot of money.
Water Parameters :
The Crystal Red Shrimp prefers soft acidic water. Clean water is also a must as with all shrimp in the hobby. However, the Crystal Red Shrimp may be the most vulnerable shrimp when housed in dirty water. Water changes are a must for this species. Temperature should be lower than 80F and the pH should range from 6.2 to 6.8, gH should be between 4-6 and kH should be between 1-2. It is very important that the Crystal Red Shrimp be housed in specific conditions. Extremes in either water parameters mentioned should be avoided. It cannot be stressed enough how delicate this shrimp is. As you approach higher grades of this species, water parameters become even more important.
Breeding :
The Crystal Red Shrimp is not as difficult of a species to breed like some believe. Like all hobby shrimp, the Crystal Red Shrimp can breed just as readily as most other Caridina species. It will also produce just as many offspring given that the water is clean and the parameters are suited for this species. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
The babies of the Crystal Red Shrimp are colored just like their parents just after hatching. However, the grading of the offspring cannot be performed until they grow more. You will see the red/white coloration in the Crystal Red Shrimp Offspring but not any detailed features/patterns which can differentiate between grades.
Unfortunately the Crystal Red Shrimp is a severely inbred species. Obtaining higher grades means that breeders will produce offspring from the same genetic strain. Due to the overbreeding the Crystal Red Shrimp can be more delicate and succeptable to diseases as well as slight changes in water conditions as mentioned in the water parameters section. This is why it is recommended that you gain experience in shrimp keeping first. Photo of a baby Crystal Red Shrimp below.
Feeding:
The Crystal Red Shrimp is not too different from other algae eating shrimps. It is a scavenger and an algae eater. Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Hobbyists like to keep this species' sufficient in iodine and nutrition, but at the same time do not to spoil the water since Crystal Red Shrimp are sensitive to nitrate. The foods commonly used are pre-made Crystal Red Shrimp food, spinach, bloodworm, seaweed, and algae wafer. There are several different brands of Crystal Red Shrimp food as well as different sizes of the food and even powder food for young. Shirakura, Mosura, and Biomax are some of the more popular brands. There are also breeders that mix their own food using many different ingredients.
Sexing:
Sexing the Crystal Red Shrimp can be difficult at juvenile stage. Once females reach adulthood you can then tell the difference between sexes, or at least which are females. Females are easy to identify as they are larger and also have a curved underbelly. I do not believe that the difference in coloration is enough to truly sex this species. Instead look for size difference and more importantly the underbelly. The saddle of a female Crystal Red Shrimp may be virtually impossible to see due to the red coloration. You may however be able to see the saddle since it is a browning color. Photo of a pregnant Crystal Red Shrimp female below. Notice the curved under belly.
Grading:
The Crystal Red Shrimp comes in many different grades and grading termanologies as well. Prices increase as the grade is "higher". Sometimes the price of a high grade Crystal Red Shrimp is shocking. Reports of $2500 for a single shrimp have been reported. Please visit the Crystal Red Shrimp Grading Guide for more information on specific grading of the Crystal Red Shrimp.
13-Fire Red Shrimp :
Neocaridina heteropoda var. Fire Red
There are generally 3-4 grades of Fire Red, starting with Sakura, then Fire Red, Taiwan Fire Red, and finally Painted Fire Red. All are a selectivly bred color morphs of Neocaridina heteropoda. They live and act very similar to Red Cherry shrimp.
Origin and Background :
The origin of these shrimp variations is under some debate and due to the popularity of the Red Cherry shrimp it is unlikely that we will ever really know. There are claims of origins in Germany, Taiwan, and Other places. While the name Taiwan Fire Red, would give some weight to the claim of Taiwan even that is debated. In truth with the ease of breeding Cherry Shrimp it probably was developed many places simultaneously, both at big farms and by local hobbyist alike.
Color Grading:
- Sakura Red Shrimp:
The body of the female is almost entirely red, there may be some translucent patches near the underbelly and a saddle may still be visible. Cracking in the carapace may also be visible. The males may look similar to male cherry shrimp and be near colorless.
-Fire Red Shrimp:
The body and legs are red without cracking to the carapace. There maybe some slight spotting on the legs but they should be mostly red in color. There may be some translucence to the carapace such that the saddle may still be visible but still difficult to see under poor lighting.
-Taiwan Fire Red Shrimp :
Very similar to the Fire Reds with two notable exceptions, first there is a distinct uniformity in the coloration, with the red covering all visible parts of the shrimp and second they apparently breed a higher percentage of similar offspring than normal fire red with 80-90% being of similar grade.
-Painted Fire Red Shrimp :
There is a deeper darker color here, in both the males and the females. The saddle is rarely visible even under direct light and the males look between high grade sakura reds and can have coloration similar to the females.
Breeding :
About as "plug and play" as shrimp breeding gets, they breed in most water conditions and do so frequently. Once Breeding age is reached a single sexed pair kept in stable water conditions without outside predation of the shrimp fry(babies) could realistically yield hundreds of shrimp within a years time given enough space and food. When purchasing these shrimp for breeding it is wise to purchase at least 8-10 at a time to guarantee at least a couple pairs, additionally 1 shrimp per gallon to start(but at least 8) is a good rule if frequent breeding is desired. The rate of breeding is only slightly lower than lower grade Cherry red shrimp, but the number of viable offspring (that don't need to be culled) also affects the reproduction rate.
Sexing :
Sexing becomes increasingly difficult the higher the grade of the Fire Red, in lower grades the females show obvious saddles and the males are much lighter in color, when you move up to painted fire reds it can be near impossible to tell apart the males and females unless the female is berried or both are fully grown and then the male is a bit smaller.
Water Parameters :
Generally, almost any habitable tank will suit these shrimp, I personally keep them with OEBTs in a tank that is about 72 degrees with very soft water and a PH of 6.6, I have a friend who keeps them with Cardinal Shrimp at a ph of 8.2 and about 82 degrees and very hard water. They are a versatile and hardy species who can be kept with minimal care. In sub-tropical and tropical areas it is possible to keep them in well established, naturally filtered ponds, provided the water doesn't exceed 85 degrees for extended periods.
Feeding :
They are not picky eaters and will eat most shrimp and fish foods, blanched vegetables, algae pellets and other sinking food. They are also very efficient scavengers who will eat bio-film that accumulates on moss and other aquarium plants. If your tank is populated at a ratio of less than 2-3 shrimp per gallon and is moderately planted they often can go days or even weeks without additional food supplements, once they exceed 3 shrimp per gallon feeding should occur every other day (in very small amounts).
14-Dark Green Shrimp :
Caridina sp. "Dark Green"
There has been a lot of confusion generated by the names "Green Shrimp," "Dark Green Shrimp," and "Green Neon Shrimp." There are several different scientific names that this shrimp has been given, and other breeders have stated that this is in fact an unnamed species of its own.
Background:
The Dark Green Shrimp originates in Asia, however the exact location is unknown. Its first introduction to the hobby was mid 2007 and is popular due to its dark green coloration and rapid growth of offspring. Due to the fact that there is another species, Caridina Babaulti sp "green", which is also a green coloration. The Babaulti species is not as dark green as the Dark Green Shrimp and the offspring do not grow as fast either.
Water Parameters :
The Dark Green Shrimp prefers mildly acidic water near the 7.0 pH range. Higher pH is also acceptable. Clean water is also a must as with all shrimp Temperature should be lower than 82F but higher than 68F. Extremes in either water parameters mentioned should be avoided. Good clean water will enable this species to flourish and produce rapidly.
Breeding :
The only green species that I have is the Dark Green Shrimp so I can only offer my experience with this species. I will acquire the Babaulti species soon so that I can do a thorough comparison of each. The babies are extremely small are start off with a dark red coloration which is a characteristic unique to the Dark Green Shrimp. Another characteristic of the Dark Green Shrimp is its rapid growth from hatchling to adulthood. This species grows rapidly and virtually doubles in size in a little over a week after hatching. The Babaulti species is the opposite, it can take a while before it will grow until adulthood. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
he photo below shows a baby Dark Green Shrimp. Notice the red coloration and its small size compared to the moss it rests on.
Identification vs. Caridina Babaulti sp "Green":
Besides the growth rate and hatchling coloration mentioned above there are other ways to identify this species versus the Babaulti species. The color of the Dark Green Shrimp is intense, and stays the same color throughout is lifespan. The Dark Green Shrimp does not change color whatsoever, unlike the "babaulti" species which is known to change color. If you wonder whether or not you have the Dark Green Shrimp then you most likely do not have this particular species. It is such an intense dark green that it is unmistakeable. Before purchasing the Dark Green Shrimp make sure that you are indeed purchasing the corrent one. Make sure the breeder has experience and even ask for photos if necessary. Anyone can mistake the Dark Green Shrimp with the Babaulti species if not knowledgeable.
Sexing
It is very easy to sex this species. The Dark Green Shrimp Females are much larger, and "fatter" than the males. The females are a also much darker green than the males. The eggs are a real nice bright lime green color which offsets the dark green color of the females. It is very easy to tell when the Dark Green Shrimp are pregnant as seen in the photo at the top of this page. Below is a zoomed in photo of the eggs.
Dark Green Shrimp Eggs
Feeding :
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
15-Ghost - Glass -Grass Shrimp :
Palaemonetes paludosus :
The official common name for this species is the Grass Shrimp and its scientific name is Palaemonetes paludosus. It does have many other names including Ghost Shrimp, Glass Shrimp, Freshwater River Shrimp and others. I recommend trying out the Grass Shrimp as your very first shrimp. It will give you an incite on dwarf shrimp and you will know whether or not you will want to continue the shrimp hobby and move on to other hobby shrimp. Remember that this is a natural food source in the wild so any predatory fish will definitely devour them fast.
Background:
Their origin is in the USA, primarily freshwater rivers and lakes of the southern states. I have seen these in the wild in Everglades National Park which is very close to where I live. They are a very important food source for many creatures in the wild. The freshwater Grass Shrimp is sometimes the very first shrimp that hobbyists keep. This was my first shrimp actually. I purchased this shrimp because they sold it in my local fish store 12 for $1, very cheap. I bought 12 of them and took them home. They are sold as feeder shrimp for either fresh or saltwater fish and are not sold as hobby shrimp. However, they are pretty cool shrimp for hobbyists. They are very active and are larger than most other shrimp in the hobby.
Sexing :
Sexing the Grass Shrimp is easy. The females almost always have a green saddle or eggs underneath the belly. Another way to sex this species is by the high ridge, or arc, along the top of the tail. The females have a very pronounced ridge whereas the males do not. Females are also larger than males as with most dwarf shrimp.
Breeding :
There is a common misconception that the Grass Shrimp requires brackish water in order to breed successfully. This is untrue as freshwater is just fine for breeding. I believe that some people think that this species requires brackish water because it has a larval stage in the breeding process. Larval stage meaning that the shrimplets hatch from the egg before being fully developed. Other shrimp such as the Red Cherry Shrimp fully develop inside of the egg and when hatched they are small versions of the adults.
It seems to be difficult to breed the Grass Shrimp in captivity though even if it is capable in freshwater only. I have done some research and the larvae of the Grass Shrimp requires special feeding that cannot be found in the freshwater aquarium unless introduced with specialized food. The larvae will apparently starve and die if not properly fed. I have not attempted to breed the Grass Shrimp as I have only kept them in the very beginning of my shrimp keeping hobby for a couple of months. They died rather soon even though the reported lifespan is just over a year.
The eggs of the Grass Shrimp are green. Below is a photo of a female Grass Shrimp with a green saddle on her back indicating
High Death Rate :
A lot of hobbyists who start out with the Grass Shrimp report deaths after recently obtaining them. There could be many reasons why a shrimp could die in an aquarium especially if it is your first time keeping shrimp. The Grass Shrimp is very hardy and can be hard to kill.
The main reason for rapid deaths are due to mishandling and poor care when these shrimp are captured and shipped to local fish stores. Since the Grass Shrimp are mainly sold as feeder shrimp they are not cared for as they are considered soon to die anyhow. If you acquire this species be prepared for a possible quick die-off of several of them if not all. Inspect the shrimp you are getting from your local fish store before you take them home. Any "milky" coloration is a bad thing. Also observe their behaviour. Grass Shrimp are extremely active when healthy.
Coloration :
This species has the natural defense of camouflage protection. It is almost completely transparent allowing it to blend in with its surroundings. Do not be surprised if you cannot find these shrimp in your aquarium even though they could be right in front of your eyes. Sometimes you just can't see them. That is why they are most commonly referred to as Ghost or Glass Shrimp.
16-Golden Bee Shrimp :
Caridina cantonensis sp. "Golden Bee"
The Golden Bee Shrimp is quite an interesting shrimp. Some may call it a "Golden Crystal Red Shrimp," "Snow White Crystal Red Shrimp" or "All-White Crystal Red Shrimp", but I like to call it a Golden Bee Shrimp. It is a very nice shrimp to keep and very cool in person.
Background :
As far as the actual history of this species, I haven't a clue. I wish I knew where they came from and who selectively bred them. I have a theory that this species was a selective bred hybrid between a nearly all white Crystal Red Shrimp and an Orange Bee Shrimp. I could be wrong, but that it is just my best guess. It is very interesting to me the orange color which is in the flesh and not in the shell. This is not a characteristic I have seen in any of my normal Crystal Red Shrimp. I have asked several well known breeders and they do not know its true origin either. It most likely came out of Japan.
Water Parameters :
The Golden Bee Shrimp, just like the Crystal Red Shrimp, prefers soft acidic water. Clean water is also a must as with all shrimp in the hobby. Temperature should be lower than 80F and the pH should range from 6.2 to 6.8, gH should be between 4-6 and kH should be between 1-2. It is very important that the Golden Bee Shrimp be housed in specific conditions. Extremes in either water parameters mentioned should be avoided. Bad water parameters will easily show by the fading and/or disappearance of the white coloration.
Breeding:
Breeding the Golden Bee Shrimp is just like breeding the Crystal Red Shrimp. The Golden Bee Shrimp can breed just as readily as most other Caridina species. This species will have brown colored eggs when pregnant. It will produce just as many offspring given that the water is clean and the parameters are suited for this species. It is reported that the Golden Bee Shrimp will interbreed with the Crystal Red Shrimp. Some breeders put both species together in the hopes of making the Crystal Red Shrimp breed a higher grade. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
The babies of the Golden Bee Shrimp are colored just like their parents immediate after hatching. You will immediately see the all-white coloration appear and as the baby grows the white will become more intense. Below is a photo of a baby Golden Bee Shrimp. Notice how the white coloration is not yet as intense as the adults.
Sexing::
Sexing the Golden Bee Shrimp can be difficult at juvenile stage. Once females reach adulthood you can then tell the difference between sexes, or at least which are females. Females are easy to identify as they are larger and also have a curved underbelly. Look for size difference and more importantly the underbelly. The saddle of a female Golden Bee Shrimp may be virtually impossible to see due to the red coloration. You may however be able to see the saddle since it is a browning color and constrasts well with the all-white shrimp. In the above "Breeding" section is a photo of a pregnant Golden Bee Shrimp female. Notice the curved under belly. In the photo below notice how the underbelly is not curved. This is a sign that the shrimp could potentially be a male.
Male Golden Bee Shrimp
Baby Golden Bee Shrimp
Pregnant Golden Bee Shrimp
Feeding:
The Golden Bee Shrimp is not too different from other algae eating shrimps. It is a scavenger and an algae eater. Like its cousin, the Crystal Red Shrimp, the foods commonly used are pre-made Crystal Red Shrimp food, spinach, bloodworm, seaweed, and algae wafer. There are several different brands of Crystal Red Shrimp food as well as different sizes of the food and even powder food for young. Shirakura, Mosura, and Biomax are some of the more popular brands.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Coloration:
Its coloration is very unique. It has a golden color in the flesh of the shrimp and the outside shell is white. The intensity of the white is like the Crystal Red Shrimp. Since there is no red coloration with the Golden Bee Shrimp the Crystal Red Shrimp Grading Guide does not apply obviously. If the shrimp is healthy and well established in its aquarium then the nice all-white coloration will be more intense. I took these photos one day after introducing them to my tank, therefore the white coloration is not near as solid as it is now. However, I did like the "popcorn" appearance they had at first. Once this species was well established and healthy, the white coloration really started to come back.
Grading :
Some say that this species is actually "graded" based on the intensity of the white coloration. Some Golden Bee Shrimp do not have an all white intense coloration. The all pure white colored shrimp is considered the best grade/quality.
17-Harlequin Shrimp :
Caridina cf. spongicola
The Harlequin Shrimp is from Sulawesi, Indonesia and has very unique coloration and marking. It is the smallest of all of the recently discovered Sulawesi Shrimp. The Harlequin Shrimp is also extremely shy until it is comfortable with its new environment. Once it is acclimated to the aquarium it will come out more and its colors will really show.
Origin and Background:
The Harlequin Shrimp is from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Sulawesi is one of the islands encompassing the country of Indonesia. The Harlequin Shrimp is caught in one of several lakes in Sulawesi. I highly suggest that you read the article Sulawesi Expedition for detailed information on Sulawesi as well as more information on is habitat. There are also underwater photos of the lake system itself.
The Harlequin Shrimp is a unique species as far as its environment. It actually lives and eats off of the freshwater sponges that exist in the lake. That is why it was given the name Caridina spongicola. It was originally thought that the Harlequin Shrimp would need these sponges in order to survive, but that is not true. It used the sponges to feed off of the algae or particle found in the sponge, basically cleaning it. Captive feeding of this species without the sponge is fine and the shrimp will survive.
Water Parameters:
As with all Sulawesi Shrimp it is highly recommended that you keep the Harlequin Shrimp in a temperature of at least 78F. Anything lower can kill this species. It is also recommended that you keep this species in a tank with hard water and a ph of no less than 7.0. Most hobbyists set their Sulawesi tanks with a ph oh 8.0.
I am currently keeping the Harlequin Shrimp in the same tank with a few other species from Sulawesi. The tank consists of ADA Amazonia substrate, a temperature of 84F and a pH of 7.0. Some have stated that the low ph of 7.0 due to the ADA Amazonia is not good for this species. Right now I disagree. All of the Sulawesi Shrimp that I currently house are doing very well in this setup and so far even the babies are doing very well.
Sexing :
Sexing of the Harlequin Shrimp is unknown. I do not know how you can tell the difference between the males and females. I have tried to read online about how to sex any of the Sulawesi Shrimp and apparently it is not yet known. Perhaps as more time progresses it will be easier to sex these shrimp but right now it seems that all males and females have the exact same coloration. My guess is that the females may be a bit bigger than the males. If size is the only indicator than it may be difficult to sex them anyhow since the Harlequin Shrimp is small at adulthood.
Breeding :
I have had the Harlequin Shrimp produce babies and the babies seem to do ok. I was lucky to receive some pregnant Harlequin Shrimp from overseas. The pregnant ones from the wild hatched their eggs and now I have some baby Harlequins. I hope to have them grow to adulthood and reproduce in pure captivity.
Breeding is done in complete freshwater, not salt or brackish water is required whatsoever. There is also no larval stage. The adult females carry the eggs until they hatch, producing miniature shrimp. The females carry roughly 10-15 eggs. It takes approximately 20-30 days for the eggs to hatch. The babies immediately show the same color as the adults, just not as intense. I will update as time progresses. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the articleShrimp Reproduction.
Appearance :
The Harlequin Shrimp has a very distinct coloration. It has a mixture of three colors: black, red and white. These three colors offset each other very well and offer a very unique contrast. Harlequin is an art style usually depicted in jesters or jokers from the middle ages. The name Harlequin Shrimp may very well have derived from the D.C. Comic Book character "Harley Quinn" who has very similar coloration. Please visit this Wikipedia Page for more information on the Harley Quinn character. Compare the photos of the character to the actual Harlequin Shrimp shown below.
The name Harlequin Shrimp may very well have derived from the D.C. Comic Book character "Harley Quinn" who has very similar coloration.
Behavior :
As mentioned before, the Harlequin Shrimp can be a very shy species. It can hide in the shadows and sometimes not appear often. I attribute this behavior to the fact that the Harlequin Shrimp not being comfortable in its new environment, the aquarium. Once this species becomes acclimated and does not fear predators it will come out in plain site. If you notice that your Harlequin Shrimp are frequently hiding then it is a sign that they need more time to get comfortable or that your tank parameters are not to its liking. It is very important that you have clean water and stick to the water parameters mentioned previously on this page.
Feeding:
I feed the Sulawesi Shrimp, including the Harlequin Shrimp, the same as I feed all of the other shrimp I keep. The occasional algae water and other invert food. It seems to prefer to eat at night as it mostly hangs out on the plants or substrate during the day. It prefers to be in the shade under cover of plants. I highly recommend feeding the Harlequin Shrimp when the lights are out. It will feel more comfortable and feed versus when the lights are on.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
18- Malaya Shrimp:
Caridina sp. "Malaya"
The Malaya Shrimp is another relatively new shrimp to the hobby. It was introduced to North American hobbyists in late 2007 and is slowly being spread to other hobbyists. It is an unusual shrimp in its breeding cycle as well as in its appearance.
Background :
The Malaya Shrimp is from Malaysia. The Malaya name derives from the former Federation of Malaya which was then unioned with other countries in 1963 to form modern day Malaysia. It was a difficult species to acquire until more hobbyists began to breed and sell it. German hobbyists were the first to see this species several years prior to its North American introduction. It has begun making its way to hobbyists around the world and will soon be a well known and wide spread species. Wild capture and exportation is difficult so captive breeding assists it spread throughout the hobby.
Water Parameters :
The Malaya Shrimp is from a warm tropical region and therefore the water parameters should be simulated as such. Temperature should be temperature range of 74-84F. The pH should be in the high alkaline range of 7.8-8.0. This information has been provided by other breeders who have kept this shrimp and have knowledge of its requirements. Good clean water is very important, as with all other shrimp in the hobby. Dirty water will certainly cause problems.
Breeding :
The most interesting thing about the Malaya Shrimp is its breeding cycle. Unlike the majority of the shrimp in the hobby, the Malaya Shrimp produces tiny larvae and not miniature shrimp. The larvae slowly develop into miniature shrimp after a few days. An even more interesting fact about this species is that it does not require brackish water to successfully grow during its larval stage. Several other species of shrimp that produce larvae instead of miniature adults do require brackish water including the Amano Shrimp and Bamboo Shrimp.
While pregnant, the female Malaya Shrimp hold roughly 50 eggs which is definitely above average for most hobby shrimp. After approximately 15 days the eggs hatch into larvae. Please see the photo below of a one day old Malaya Shrimp larvae.
After a few days the larvae will develop into a miniature adult. Most other species of shrimp like the Red Cherry Shrimp, Crystal Red Shrimp and many others hatch directly from the egg as miniature adults. Please look at the photo below of a Malaya Shrimp after larval stage (looks like a shrimp now).
Sexing :
Like many of the other species in the hobby the Malaya Shrimp can be sexed rather easily. Females are easy to identify as they are larger than the males, have a much darker coloration, and also have a curved underbelly. In the photo below you can see how the male is smaller, has very little coloration and the "under belly" is non-existent.
The female Malaya Shrimp has a much darker and full coloration. It is much larger than the males and is very easy to distinguish especially when pregnant. The females also tend to have white lines running down their back and across as well. The female Malaya Shrimp also has a much wider and plump body. Please see the photo below of a pregnant Malaya Shrimp.
Appearance:
The Malaya Shrimp can have several different colors ranging from gold, brown, blue, red and green. This shrimp is sometimes misidentified as Caridina Babaulti due to the fact that it can have different colors. Please read the article Caridina Babaulti: Mislabeled for more information on how some species of shrimp are commonly mislabeled including the Malaya Shrimp.
Feeding:
Feeding the Malaya Shrimp is easy as they accept virtually any kind of shrimp/fish food. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Special food is not required for the Malaya Shrimp. It is also not required that you feed the larvae anythign special either. It does not take long for the Malaya Shrimp larvae to grow so special feeding is not necessary.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
19-Neocaridina heteropoda "wild"
Neocaridina Heteropoda
The Neocaridina Heteropoda species is the wild-type invertebrate of the common Red Cherry Shrimp and Yellow Shrimp. Both of the species were selectively bred from this wild-type in order to obtain their solid red and solid yellow coloration. This is the original Red Cherry Shrimp and Yellow Shrimp quite simply.
Background:
The Neocaridina Heteropoda is found in Asia, its exact location is unknown. This wild species has been used by hobbyists to selectively breed color morphs, such as the Red Cherry Shrimp and Yellow Shrimp. If you look closely at each of the photos you can see some coloration of either yellow or red. Selective breeding is done by taking the characteristics, in this case coloration, and breed the wild shrimp that exhibit that color over many times. Eventually a solid color is developed after several generations. This must be a very difficult task. The exact amount of generations that it took for the Red Cherry Shrimp and Yellow Shrimp to become fully colored is unknown.
Water Parameters:
The Neocaridina Heteropoda Shrimp can be housed in many different water parameters. Just like the Red Cherry Shrimp, this species can be kept in a pH range from 6.0 to 8.0, soft and hard water, temperatures from 72F to 84F and in many different soils like ADA Aquasoil and normal gravel. When following water parameters for this species it may be best just to refer back to the parameters of the Red Cherry Shrimp species if you have successfully kept it.
Breeding :
The Neocaridina Heteropoda Shrimp is extremely prolific, just like its red colored cousing, and will breed readily and virtually around the clock. Clean water and proper water parameters will ensure that this species breeds constantly. Females will have green colored eggs when pregnant. The saddle will also be green and the appearance of a saddle while there are eggs is a good sign that hatching is days away.
It is typically 30-45 days from pregnancy to hatching. Another way to tell is by the emergence of a new saddle when the female still has eggs. The emergence of the saddle is the indication that the female is prepared to have a new set of eggs and that the current eggs are close to hatching. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction.
Male attempting to mate with a female
Feeding :
The Neocaridina Heteropoda will eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Sexing:
Sexing the Neocaridina Heteropoda is not difficult at all. Females are easy to identify as they are larger than the males, have a much darker coloration, and also have a curved underbelly. Females will also have a saddle or even have eggs. In the photo below you can see how the female Neocaridina Heteropoda has a green saddle and also has the tell tale curved underbelly.
In the photo below you can see how the male is smaller, has very little coloration and the "under belly" is a straight line with no curved shape.
Coloration :
This wild-type variety has a camoflauged coloration to it to obviously help it hide in the wild. If you look at the first photo below you will see how well the two females are able to blend in with the rock. Such a scattered coloration must make it extremely difficult to selectively breed out and fill a new variety with solid coloration. However, some breeders of this species have noted that some of the offspring will show a somewhat red coloration and perhaps this is where the Red Cherry Shrimp idea began. Please see a photo below of two females on a rock.
20-Ninja Shrimp
Caridina serratirostris
The Ninja Shrimp has earned its name from its ability to rapidly change colors and vanish, like a Ninja. There are many different names for this same species including Christmas Shrimp, Honey Shrimp and more. The only downside to this species is that it requires saltwater to reproduce.
Origin and Background :
The Ninja Shrimp is a wild caught species due to the fact that captive breeding is difficult and requires saltwater. It is found in Asia and is imported virtually 100% of the time unless it is acquired from a breeder that has managed to captive breed this species. As with most wild caught species, it can be difficult to keep the Ninja Shrimp if the capturing procedures and shipment have stressed the shrimp before acquiring it.
Breeding :
As stated above, the Ninja Shrimp requires saltwater in order to breed. Breeding species which require saltwater, like the Amano Shrimp, is very difficult. Salinity levels are very important during certain larval stages as well as feeding the larvae. Larvae must adjust slowly to pure freshwater over a period of time and their feeding must be closely monitored. The Ninja Shrimp can be bred in captivity but it may be a very difficult task to complete. Read more about breeding this type of shrimp in the Amano Shrimp Species Page in the "breeding" section.
Coloration :
The Ninja Shrimp earned its common name from the rapid change in color that can occur. This species is known to possess colors of red, yellow, brown, blue, greay, black, and more. Its rapid color changing abilities, as a means of camouflage, are thought to mimic that of a Ninja. Hence the name Ninja Shrimp. Many other species change colors when sick or unhappy with their captive environment, the Ninja Shrimp however seems to perform the color change when it feel necessary. What exactly determines the coloration is unknown but most species adapt to their surroundings so it may mimic the coloration of the substrate or hardscape in the aquarium.
Feeding :
Feeding the Ninja Shrimp is very easy as long as they are happy and healthy. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Additional Info :
Due to minimal spread of the Ninja Shrimp throughout the Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Hobby little is known about it. As more information is known on the Ninja Shrimp this page will be updated accordingly.
21- Orange Bee Shrimp :
Orange Bee Shrimp
The Orange Bee Shrimp is one of the oldest shrimp species in the hobby. It has been in the hobby for almost a decade. However, over time it has become quite rare and difficult to acquire. This species is making a comeback however and should start spreading through the hobby as more breeders sell their stock.
Background :
They Orange Bee Shrimp is believed to be a color morph or at least closely related to the "normal" Bee Shrimp, which Crystal Red Shrimp are bred from. Since the Orange Bee Shrimp has been around for almost a decade is it extremely difficult to assess exactly its origin or which breeder perhaps discovered the orange color morph.
Water Parameters :
The water parameters for the Orange Bee Shrimp should be very similar to the requirements of similar species, specifically the Crystal Red Shrimp and Bee Shrimp. The Orange Bee Shrimp prefers soft acidic water. Clean water is also a must as with all shrimp in the hobby. The Orange Bee Shrimp may not be as vulnerable when housed in dirty water compared to its cousin the Crystal Red Shrimp but water quality is still very important. Water changes are a must for this species. Temperature should be lower than 80F and the pH should range from 6.2 to 6.8, gH should be between 4-6 and kH should be between 1-2. It is very important that the Orange Bee Shrimp be housed in specific conditions. Extremes in either water parameters mentioned should be avoided.
Breeding :
No selective breeding has been done on them, so they look basically like the wild Bee Shrimp they derive from. Due to a lack of selective breeding there are few slim white stripes and some black stripes on them as well. The most amazing feature however is the intense orange coloration. The Orange Bee Shrimp's coloration comes from the inside of the body and not the shell. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction. The pregnant females will carry amber colored eggs as shown in the photo below.
Orange Bee Shrimp Eggs
The Orange Bee Shrimp hatch as miniature adults. There is no larval stage associated with its breeding process. Coloration will be apparent but the more intense coloration will appear once the baby grows into adulthood. The photo below is of a baby from a female Orange Bee Shrimp bred with a C Grade Bee Shrimp during a cross breeding experiment. Notice how the offspring shows more of a bee like appearance.
Sexing :
Sexing the Orange Bee Shrimp is very easy. Females are easy to identify as they are larger than the males, have a much more pronounced orange coloration, and also have a curved underbelly. In the photo below you can see how the male (the C Grade Bee Shrimp used in crossbreeding) is smaller, has very little orange coloration and the "under belly" is a straight line with no curved shape.
Cross-Bred Baby
Male Bee Shrimp
You can distinctly tell the difference from the male and female when viewing both that same time. In the photo below you can see how the female has more orange coloration, is bigger, and also has the curved underbelly.
Female Orange Bee Shrimp
Feeding :
The Orange Bee Shrimp will eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Some may feed specialized shrimp food due to its relation to the Crystal Red Shrimp. Specific food is not required though. If they swarm the food that is a great sign, and of course if you see babies that is a sign that things are doing very well. Unenthusiastic feeding and constant hiding is a good indicator that things are not good.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.