21- Orange Sakura Shrimp:
Neocaridina heteropoda var. Orange
This is a fairly new color morph of the most common shrimp in the hobby, the Red Cherry shrimp. Like the Red Cherry Shrimp this is a prolific breeder and very easy to keep in a variety of water conditions. Despite being selectively bred and relatively new to the hobby it is a very hardy shrimp that is suited to both the beginner shrimp keeper as well as the experienced keeper looking for a versatile but colorful contrast to tanks already inhabited by Neocaridina.
Origin and Background:
Originally a selectively bred in Germany this color morph of the Red Cherry Shrimp has become very sought after in the hobby, often replacing the far more common Red Cherry. Like many of the color morphs of Neocaridina heteropoda once the color morph began to breed true it quickly found its way into the hobby.
Breeding:
About as "plug and play" as shrimp breeding gets, they breed in most water conditions and do so frequently. Once Breeding age is reached a single sexed pair kept in stable water conditions without outside predation of the shrimp fry(babies) could realistically yield hundreds of shrimp within a years time given enough space and food. When purchasing these shrimp for breeding it is wise to purchase at least 8-10 at a time to guarantee at least a couple pairs, additionally 1 shrimp per gallon to start(but at least 8) is a good rule if frequent breeding is desired.
Sexing:
Sexing is easy once these shrimp reach breeding age. Once the female approaches breeding age she will develop a saddle(as in the picture) or she will be berried (once breeding age is reached they often are). Males are sometimes lighter in color (but not always) and are slightly smaller. The size difference in males and females is less apparent than in Red Cherry Shrimp, at least from personal experience.
Female: Pictured is a female who only developed her saddle two days ago.
Male: Pictured is a male foraging in some Indian Almond Leaf
Water Parameters :
Generally, almost any habitable tank will suit these shrimp, I personally keep them with OEBTs in a tank that is about 72 degrees with very soft water and a PH of 6.6, I have a friend who keeps them with Cardinal Shrimp at a ph of 8.2 and about 82 degrees and very hard water. They are a versatile and hardy species who can be kept with minimal care. In sub-tropical and tropical areas it is possible to keep them in well established, naturally filtered ponds, provided the water doesn't exceed 85 degrees for extended periods.
Feeding:
They are not picky eaters and will eat most shrimp and fish foods, blanched vegetables, algae pellets and other sinking food. They are also very efficient scavengers who will eat bio-film that accumulates on moss and other aquarium plants. If your tank is populated at a ratio of less than 2-3 shrimp per gallon and is moderately planted they often can go days or even weeks without additional food supplements, once they exceed 3 shrimp per gallon feeding should occur every other day (in very small amounts).
22-Orange Delight Shrimp:
Caridina sp. "Orange Delight"
The Orange Delight Shrimp is another species from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Its size and behavior is comparable to the Brown Camo Shrimp. It is not the most popular of the Sulawesi species but it does have its own style. Its pattern of colors is similar to some other species of Sulawesi Shrimp but the coloration is of its own. The Orange Delight Shrimp is not a beginner's species and only experienced hobbyists should attempt to keep it.
Background:
The Orange Delight Shrimp is from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Sulawesi is one of the islands encompassing the country of Indonesia. It is caught in one of several lakes in Sulawesi. I highly suggest that you read the articleSulawesi Expedition for detailed information on Sulawesi as well as more information on is habitat. There are underwater photos of the lake system and photos of the landscape as well.
Water Parameters:
As with all Sulawesi Shrimp it is highly recommended that you keep the Orange Delight Shrimp in a temperature of at least 78F. Anything lower can kill this species. It is also recommended that you keep this species in a tank with hard water and a ph of no less than 7.0. I keep the Orange Delight Shrimp in a tank with a pH of 7.0 and temperature of 84F. My tank parameters are the same for all of my Sulawesi Shrimp.
Due to its small size you can keep the Orange Delight Shrimp in a smaller tank. I recommend a tank of at least 10 gallons. I would keep no more than 25 Orange Delight Shrimp per 10 gallons of water. Even though it is a smaller species, overcrowding can stress this shrimp.
Breeding :
The Orange Delight Shrimp breeding is done in complete freshwater, no salt or brackish water is required. The adult females carry the eggs until they hatch, producing miniature shrimp. The females carry roughly 10-15 eggs. It takes approximately 20-30 days for the eggs to hatch. Upon hatching you may not see the babies for a few days while they hide. Eventually they will appear.
The babies of the Orange Delight Shrimp will not show much similarities in coloration to the parents. It will take at least a week before you can truly identify the baby as coming from this species. Due to the baby's small size it is not large enough to show the coloration or pattern as the adults do. For more information on the reproduction cycle of freshwater aquarium shrimp please read the article Shrimp Reproduction. Below is a photo of Orange Delight Shrimp eggs. Notice the tiny black "eyes" of the developing babies inside of the eggs.
Sexing:
Sexing of the Orange Delight Shrimp is difficult and so far no one has fully figured out how to do so with the naked eye. As far as using the principle of the other shrimps species, meaning females are larger and have a curved underbelly, it does not apply to the Orange Delight Shrimp unfortunately. Males and females seem to look exactly the same. Once more information is known about properly sexing this species this page will be updated.
Appearance :
The Orange Delight Shrimp earns its name from the bright or light orange coloration that it has. The orange coloration will really stand out like in the photo at the top of this page. The shrimp is also covered in white dots as well as 2-3 white dashes along the top of its body. The white dashes are the best way to identify this shrimp from other Sulawesi Shrimp species.
Sometimes the species will not show its true orange coloration but rather a brown coloration. I believe that when this species is stressed or unhealthy it will appear to be brown. Below is a photo of the brown coloration that an Orange Delight Shrimp will show when stressed.
Behavior :
The Orange Delight Shrimp is not a shy species at all except when stressed or unhealthy. If this species is stressed it will show the brown coloration and will frequently hide from sight, in dark places. It will also not come out during feeding time (if the lights are on) when it is stressed or unhealthy. This is a picky shrimp but when it is happy it will show excellent colors.
Feeding :
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
I feed all of the Sulawesi Shrimp, including the Orange Delight Shrimp, the same as I feed all of the other shrimp I keep. I feed mostly Shirakura food and the occasional algae water or other invert food. This species will eat at all times of the day and is not afraid of coming out into the open to feed when happy and healthy. Below is a close-up photo of an Orange Delight Shrimp face and mouth.
23-Panda Shrimp :
Caridina cantonensis var. "Panda"
This black and white shrimp (sometimes the white has shades of blue and blue green, known as a shadow panda) is another one of the Taiwan Bee shrimp that exhibit some of the best coloration in the freshwater shrimp hobby. This shrimp is often kept with other Taiwan bees and is believed to be used to breed blue bolt shrimp.
Origin and Background:
Another variant of Taiwan bee shrimp that is a bee shrimp mutation.
Breeding:
Pandas can be bred to Black King Kongs, Wine Reds, other Panda, Shadow Pandas, Blue Bolt, Mischling, CRS, CBS shrimp, they can also probably mix with other Caridina cantonensis but the results of such mixing (Tigers and Bees ect.) is not readily available. How you breed your Panda shrimp really should depend on your line and the breeder you are dealing with. The tendency of Panda shrimp to be more hardy than other variants of Taiwan bees also means that they can be bred to other Pandas with a much higher chance of success.
Sexing :
The Panda Shrimp can be difficult to sex until some time after sexual maturity is reached. It is nearly impossible to identify a saddle. Once they are well into sexual maturity size and body shape can be used to identify the sexes as females will be a little larger and have a rounder undercarriage as is the case with most Caridina cantonensis species.
Water Parameters:
Where to begin, there are many claims to successful breeding in a variety of water parameters. Instead of listing the highs and lows I would rather outline several of the more frequent or reliable claims. Generally most people do not recommend keeping them in smaller tanks, at least 25 gallons is often recommended, the reason for this is the more volume of water the easier it is to maintain constant water parameters.Independent of the claims of what water parameters are best all sources recommend that whatever they are they remain constant, larger amounts of water are easier to maintain at a constant value and natural changes tend to occur less rapidly in larger bodies of water. Another common suggestion is going a little overboard on the filtration: sponge filters, aeration, HoB, Canister filters, ect. Usually more than one is used sometimes all are recommended, no matter how you achieve it, your water should be very clean, almost drinkable clean. (Order is not meant to imply correctness)
Claim 1 : Water parameters are less important than the water being sterile and free from contaminants of any type. Once a tank is successfully cycled in preparation for your Shrimp, it should be kept in a aquatic clean room. The tank should be covered temperature should be maintained at between 64-68. PH should be below 6.8 and should not vary more than .2 in a 48 hour period or more than .5 in 14 days. KH should be maintained around 0-1 with trace elements provided by mineral rocks, GH should be around under 4.
Claim 2 : Successful breeding of the young requires very low PH 5-5.5, with KH of 0-2 and GH of 4-6 with water between 68-70.
Claim 3 : "Easy to breed in a range of water conditions" Several German sites - pH 6 - 7.5, GH 2-10, KH 0-6, 68-75f (20-24 C)
My conclusion(read: Logical guess based on various accounts) using these sources and a bit of logic is that there are elements of truth to all of them. These shrimp may actually do better at warmer temperatures and closer to neutral pH if everything is perfect but those water conditions are also more friendly to the survival of pathogens (bacterial, Viral and fungal) which means if a pathogen is introduced then it can be devastating to a population. I would venture to guess the suggestions of lower temperature and pH actually help the shrimp survive by making it less appealing to the unseen things that can cause shrimp do die rather than the "preference" of the shrimp.
Feeding:
They tend to be picky eaters, but generally it is accepted that blanched spinach and high grade vegetarian shrimp feed is sufficient. A varied diet is a healthy diet. There are also some reports of the benefits of feeding freeze dried copepods as a dietary supplement because the high amounts of calcium and protein and the ease of digestion, this is particularly recommended for the very young. Feeding as with all shrimp should be done in moderation.
24-Purple Zebra Shrimp:
Potamalpheops sp.
The Purple Zebra Shrimp is a very cool looking shrimp but unfortunately it is really not a viable shrimp to keep in captivity. They do not breed in freshwater, are relatively small, and hide most of the time. It is a nice shrimp to keep as far as its appearance but do not expect much else unfortunately.
Background :
The Purple Zebra Shrimp was first introduced to the hobby in 2006 and originates from Asia. Virtually all specimens are captured in the wild and exporters of this species are locals who catch them in the thousands. Captive breeding has not been reported to date.
Water Parameters:
I have housed the Purple Zebra Shrimp in many different parameters. This species can live and successfully hatch eggs (not reproduce though) in a ph ranging from 6.6 to 7.4. Temperature can also very from 72F all the way to 82F. This species is not as delicate as some may think, it is rather hardy. A healthly specimen can live in multiple conditions. The main reason why this species is considered delicate is due to poor capture and export. Since the Purple Zebra Shrimp comes from the wild poor shipping procedures and handling can easily damage this shrimp, making it certain for death.
Breeding :
The Purple Zebra Shrimp require saltwater in order to successfully hatch as larvae and develop into minature adults. The Purple Zebra Shrimp start as tiny larvae floating in the water. The female carries many bright green eggs for approximately 3 weeks and then hatch into tiny larvae floating freely in the water. The larvae are almost completely transparent. They are extremely small and look like little pieces of glass floating in the water. It is actually a really cool sight. The photo below is of a free floating larvae.
Unfortunately after about a week the larvae are no where to be found. I have checked the moss and substrate many times to no avail. I have had many larvae at different times with the same result each time: no offspring. It is unknown whether they die of starvation or a lack of saltwater, could be both. Another photo below showing a free floating larvae.
Sexing :
Sexing the Purple Zebra Shrimp is not an easy task as the usual sexing rules of larger females with curved underbellies does not apply. The Purple Zebra Shrimp is a very small shrimp. Adults are a maximum of just over 1/4" and therefore sex can only be distinguished by either a green saddle or green eggs on the female. It seems that this shrimp reproduces like clockwork though. Females either have a saddle or eggs at all times. I do not believe that there is any other way to sex this species without either eggs or saddle. Males and females seem to be the same size. Blow is a photo of a Purple Zebra Shrimp female with a tell tale green saddle.
Feeding :
The Purple Zebra Shrimp is definitely not a picky eater and will eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
24-Red Cherry Shrimp:
Neocaridina Heteropoda var. Red
The Red Cherry Shrimp is undoubtedly the most popular shrimp in the hobby due to the relatively easy ability to breed as well as their ability to live in many different water parameters. Most shrimp hobbyists start out with this species because of it easy requirements and to also learn about dwarf shrimp in general. Once acquiring experience in the hobby through keeping the Red Cherry Shrimp most hobbyists move on to the more difficult species like Tiger Shrimp and Crystal Red Shrimp. Other names for this species is Cherry Shrimp, Cherry Red Shrimp and the acronym R.C.S. means simply Red Cherry Shrimp (RCS).
The Beginner Shrimp :
I highly recommend that any newcomer to the freshwater aquarium shrimp hobby start off with the Red Cherry Shrimp. This shrimp will teach you a lot, and mistakes causing shrimp deaths can be overcome due to their ability to readily breed. You also don�t want to make a mistake with another more expensive species. Red Cherry Shrimp are the least expensive shrimp in the hobby.
Background :
The Red Cherry Shrimp is a selectively bred species, meaning that the red coloration was slowly bred out from the wild variety. A breeder, who is unknown, slowly bred the red trait out of the wild Neocaridina Heteropoda to achieve the all red coloration. Many thanks to whomever it is that completed the tedious task of selectively breeding this species. For more information on the wild type please visit the species information page for theNeocaridina Heteropoda. In the photo below notice the tiny amount of red coloration in the wild type. You can barely see the red speckles. Also notice the green saddle.
Wild Neocaridina Heteropoda Female
Water Parameters :
The Red Cherry Shrimp can be housed in many different water parameters. I have kept them in a pH range from 6.0 to 8.0, soft and hard water, temperatures from 72F to 84F and in many different soils like ADA Aquasoil and normal gravel. It is common knowledge that the Red Cherry Shrimp can live in almost any freshwater aquarium given that the tank is habitable and does not contain predators of course. Some have even reported putting them in ponds and in filterless tanks which I dont recommend however. In other words, the Red Cherry Shrimp is the hardiest shrimp in the freshwater aquarium shrimp hobby.
Feeding :
Feeding the Red Cherry Shrimp is also easy as they accept virtually any kind of shrimp/fish food. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Red Cherry Shrimp are not picky eaters whatsoever. Feeding time is a good indicator of health and also if your Red Cherry Shrimp are breeding well. If a Red Cherry Shrimp colony is healthy then it will rush towards the food and jump all over each other in an attempt to grab a bite to eat, almost like ants. If they swarm the food that is a great sign, and of course if you see babies that is a sign that things are doing very well. Unenthusiastic feeding and constant hiding of the Red Cherry Shrimp is a good indicator that things are not good.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Breeding :
The Red Cherry Shrimp is extremely prolific, meaning that they breed readily and virtually around the clock. A healthy colony will quickly multiply and females will be constantly pregnant. It is typically 30-45 days from pregnancy to hatching. The best way to tell if a female is close to hatching her eggs is by the appearance of a set of eyes inside each egg. This is easy to spot and will let you know that hatching is literally days away. Another way to tell is by the emergence of a new saddle when the female still has eggs. The emergence of the saddle is the indication that the female is prepared to have a new set of eggs and that the current eggs are close to hatching. Please look at the photo below to see Red Cherry Shrimp Eggs with eyes.
Eggs with eyes
Red Cherry Shrimp Baby
Sexing :
Sexing the Red Cherry Shrimp is very easy. Females are easy to identify as they are larger than the males, have a much darker red coloration, and also have a curved underbelly. In the photo below you can see how the male is smaller, has very little red coloration and the "under belly" is a straight line with no curved shape. After keeping the Red Cherry Shrimp for a little amount of time you will be able to sex this species without a problem.
Females will also have a "saddle" which is the common name for eggs which are still in the ovaries, located behind the head on the top of the bottom. It is called a Saddle due to the close appearance to the saddle you would find on a horse. Most "saddles" are yellow in color, however they can also be green. "Saddles" are a sign of sexual maturity as well as soon to come eggs. The theory on why the saddle is green is based on the fact that the wild Neocardina Heteropoda has a green saddle. It is thought that the green saddle re-emerges due to the wild type genetics.
The eggs of the Red Cherry Shrimp are mostly yellow but can be green as well. If the saddle is green then the eggs will be green and vice versa. There is no difference between having yellow eggs or green eggs. One is not better than the other and it is also not a health indicator. Please see the photos below for the different colorations of saddles and eggs on the Red Cherry Shrimp.
25-Red Goldflake Shrimp
Caridina sp. "Red Goldflake"
The Red Goldflake Shrimp is another one of the magnificent species from Sulawesi, Indonesia. It is one of the largest species from Sulawesi and is also considered one of the most beautiful. It is not a beginner's species and only experienced hobbyists should attempt to keep this species.
Background :
The Red Goldflake Shrimp is from Sulawesi, Indonesia. Sulawesi is one of the islands encompassing the country of Indonesia. The Red Goldflake Shrimp is caught in one of several lakes in Sulawesi. I highly suggest that you read the article Sulawesi Expedition for detailed information on Sulawesi as well as more information on is habitat. There are also underwater photos of the lake system.
Water Parameters :
As with all Sulawesi Shrimp it is highly recommended that you keep the Red Goldflake Shrimp in a temperature of at least 78F. Anything lower can kill this species. It is also recommended that you keep this species in a tank with hard water and a ph of no less than 7.0.
I believe that due to the fact that the Red Goldflake Shrimp is one of the larger species from Sulawesi that it required a larger tank. I do not believe that it enjoys a crowded tank or a small tank either. I recommend a tank of at least 15 gallons for this species. No more than 15 shrimp per 15 gallons either.
A lot of hobbyists attempt to replicate the environment of the Red Goldflake Shrimp by using rocks for aesthetics and algae surfaces.There are also those who use coral chips or similar to raise the water hardness. Sand is also a common choice to use in the aquarium.
Breeding:
The Red Goldflake Shrimp has been successfully bred in captivity according to other breeders worldwide. Breeding is done in complete freshwater, not salt or brackish water is required whatsoever. The adult females carry the eggs until they hatch, producing miniature shrimp. The females carry roughly 20-25 eggs which is more than the typical sulawesi shrimp. It takes approximately 20-30 days for the eggs to hatch. The babies will show similar coloration to the adults after hatching.
I was lucky to receive some pregnant Red Goldflake Shrimp from overseas as well as some babies that hatched during overseas shipments. The babies did not fair well after being in the tank and any of the babies that hatched in the tank also did not seem to make it. As stated before, I believe that this species requires a large tank and does not like to be crowded. There may be other requirements for this species to successfully breed and grow which is unknown at this time. Below is a photo of a baby Red Goldflake Shrimp next to an adult.
Sexing :
Sexing of the Red Goldflake Shrimp is difficult and so far no one has fully figured out how to do so with the naked eye. The females have a saddle showing eggs underneath the carapace but the only way to actually see the saddle is with an infrared light. The outside shell of the Red Goldflake Shrimp is so dark that you cannot possibly see the saddle without special equipment. As far as using the principle of the other shrimps species, meaning females are larger and have a curved underbelly, does not apply to the Red Goldflake Shrimp unfortunately. Males and females seem to look exactly the same.
Appearance :
The Red Goldflake Shrimp earns its name from the dark maroon coloartion and the gold speckles, or flakes, around the body. It is a very nice species to look at in person. The red and gold coloration really contrast each other well. Males and females do not seem to have any difference in coloration or intensity. Below is a video of a Red Goldflake Shrimp in action. Notice the difference in its size compared to the other species in the video.
Behavior :
The Red Goldflake Shrimp can be a shy species if it is not healthy or happy with the aquarium it is in. It will crowd together with other Red Goldflake Shrimp in a dark place and not move when unhappy. I highly recommend a tank larger than 15 gallons to house this species. It seems to do a lot better when not crowded. I have observed that once this species becomes well adjusted to its new environment it will come out in the front of the tank and pick for food.
Feeding :
I feed all of the Sulawesi Shrimp, including the Red Goldflake Shrimp, the same as I feed all of the other shrimp I keep. I feed mostly Shirakura food and The occasional algae water or other invert food. This species will eat at all times of the day but I believe that they prefer to eat at night when they feel safe. I have noticed that when the lights are off they will come out and eat better than when the lights are on.
Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time. Below is a photo of a Red Goldflake Shrimp picking at a rock for food.
26-Red Tiger Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis sp. "Red Tiger"
The Red Tiger Shrimp is the red-striped sibling of the common Tiger Shrimp. Instead of black stripes it has red stripes which make it a very cool looking shrimp. Its coloration is not selectively bred nor a mutation of the common Tiger Shrimp. It is red-striped in the wild.
Background:
The Red Tiger Shrimp is found in wild streams in China. It was introduced to the hobby several years ago and was hard to find until early 2008 when some breeders were able to import the species. It is now not as uncommon as it once was but is still a highly sought after species. Since it is not a color mutation of the common red tiger shrimp it would be interesting to know the true location of this species and compare it to the location of the wild Tiger Shrimp. Comparing the different locations may offer a clue as to why this species has red stripes and the other does not. Perhaps the streams that the Red Tiger Shrimp live in are primarily covered in red colored rocks or pebbles which help the shrimp survive due to its camouflage.
Water Parameters :
The water parameters for the Red Tiger Shrimp are typically the same as other Tiger Shrimp species. A pH around 6.5.7.5 is suitable and this species also prefers softwater. Clean water is also a must as with all other shrimp. Temperature in the low range, 72-78F may be the best for this species. If you have had success keeping other varieties of Tiger Shrimp then replicating the other water parameters may be a good idead.
Breeding:
Like all other species, the Red Tiger Shrimp will breed extremely well and reproduce around the clock as long as it is healthy and happy. Each female Red Tiger Shrimp produces roughly 20-25 hatchlings and will do so constantly if the shrimp is healthy. Once hatching a batch of eggs it should take no more than a week for the same female RedTiger Shrimp to once again have eggs. This species is identical to the normal Tiger Shrimp, except for the obvious red stripes, so breeding this species is the same.
Attempts to breed the Red Tiger Shrimp with the normal Tiger Shrimp will produce a hybrid shrimp. Offspring will show certain charateristics of both species and will not be nice looking. Below is a photo of a baby Red Tiger Shrimp. Notice how there are not any black stripes whatsoever. Looks similar to a baby Red Cherry Shrimp.
A photo hybrid offspring of both a Red Tiger Shrimp and normal Tiger Shrimp below. Notice the black stripes as well as red coloration.
Sexing :
Sexing the Red Tiger Shrimp is very easy. Females are easy to identify as they are larger and also have a curved underbelly. As far as the differing of the intensity of the red coloration I tend to believe that the males and females will have the same intensity of red stripes. Looking at size and body proportion is the best way to sex this species.
Feeding :
Feeding the Red Tiger Shrimp is also easy as they accept virtually any kind of shrimp/fish food. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Appearance :
The Red Tiger Shrimp is a very nicely colored species. It has red stripes with an almost orange glow to it sometimes. The eyes are always black and the tail is mostly yellow or orange.
27-Red Tupfel Shrimp:
Caridina serrata sp. "Red Tupfel"
The Red Tupfel Shrimp is another color morph selectively bred in Germany. A breeder once found a reddish shrimp among many normal Tupfel Shrimp. Tupfel Shrimp are somewhat related to Bee and Tiger Shrimp, their pattern does consist of small black dots. Red Tupfel Shrimp do have that red color inside their body and usually have less black dots on the body than the wild type. There is a black band around the head usually, however it is not closed.
Caring and breeding just like normal bee/ Tiger Shrimp. The color does breed true. Safe to mix with all kinds of Neocaridina species as well as Caridina cf. babaulti and all others, except bee shrimp and related species.
28-Rili Shrimp :
Neocaridina heteropoda var. Rili
The Rili Shrimp came from Taiwanese breeders sometime in 2010, and was highly sought after for its novel coloration, and combination of intense colors and clear parts. The first Rilis were selectively bred from red neocaridinas with white patches, bands, stripes, and splotches until the line was stabilized and made available to the public. Upon arriving into the North American market, Rili shrimp fetched a very high price; since then, prices have dropped dramatically dropped. Since the stabilization of the Rili line, blue, green, and yellow/orange coloration morphs have been recorded.
Breeding :
As with most Neocaridina variants, Rili shrimp are very easy to breed. Since they are virtually the same shrimp as Red Cherry shrimp, Blue Pearl shrimp, or any other Neocaridina strain, they are very similar in breeding requirements and easily bred in the basic shrimp tank. Essentially, given a mix of sexes, clean water, and acceptable temperatures, these shrimp will readily reproduce.
Sexing :
As with other Neocaridina strains, sexing is relatively easy to any shrimp keeper. A curved underbelly and saddle is especially clear (no pun intended) in females. The saddle in Rili shrimp tends to be of a blue-ish coloration. Males have a concave underbelly with longer antennae and tend to be a little clearer.
Water Parameters:
Being a Neocaridina species, the Rili shrimp requires similar conditions necessary to keep such shrimp as Red Cherry shrimp, Blue Pearl shrimp, Pumpkin shrimp, Chocolate shrimp, and Snowball shrimp. Temperatures are best kept in the range of 68-78 degrees Fahrenheit, although 64-80 degrees Fahrenheit is possible; do not, however, expect any breeding in these extremes. Clean water, of course, is absolutely necessary to keep these shrimp, as will all shrimp in this hobby.
Feeding :
Feeding Rili shrimp should be no different than any other shrimp. One thing to keep in mind is to feed according to population size; as your shrimp reproduce, you will have to feed more to support a larger number of shrimp. Powdered baby food is a good idea to feed to young shrimp, as the first few days in a shrimp's life are the most vital. Feeding is done best once daily in amounts that shrimp are able to consume in 1-2 hours.
29-(Shadow)Panda Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis var. "(Shadow)Panda"
This black and white shrimp (sometimes the white has shades of blue and blue green) is another one of the Taiwan Bee shrimp that exhibit some of the best coloration in the freshwater shrimp hobby. This shrimp is often kept with other Taiwan bees and is believed to be used to breed blue bolt shrimp.
Origin and Background:
Another variant of Taiwan bee shrimp that is a bee shrimp mutation.
Breeding :
Pandas can be bred to Black King Kongs, Wine Reds, other Panda, Shadow Pandas, Blue Bolt, Mischling, CRS, CBS shrimp, they can also probably mix with other Caridina cantonensis but the results of such mixing (Tigers and Bees ect.) is not readily available. How you breed your Panda shrimp really should depend on your line and the breeder you are dealing with. The tendency of Panda shrimp to be more hardy than other variants of Taiwan bees also means that they can be bred to other Pandas with a much higher chance of success.
Sexing :
The Panda Shrimp can be difficult to sex until some time after sexual maturity is reached. It is nearly impossible to identify a saddle. Once they are well into sexual maturity size and body shape can be used to identify the sexes as females will be a little larger and have a rounder undercarriage as is the case with most Caridina cantonensis species.
Water Parameters:
Where to begin, there are many claims to successful breeding in a variety of water parameters. Instead of listing the highs and lows I would rather outline several of the more frequent or reliable claims. Generally most people do not recommend keeping them in smaller tanks, at least 25 gallons is often recommended, the reason for this is the more volume of water the easier it is to maintain constant water parameters.Independent of the claims of what water parameters are best all sources recommend that whatever they are they remain constant, larger amounts of water are easier to maintain at a constant value and natural changes tend to occur less rapidly in larger bodies of water. Another common suggestion is going a little overboard on the filtration: sponge filters, aeration, HoB, Canister filters, ect. Usually more than one is used sometimes all are recommended, no matter how you achieve it, your water should be very clean, almost drinkable clean. (Order is not meant to imply correctness)
Claim 1 : Water parameters are less important than the water being sterile and free from contaminants of any type. Once a tank is successfully cycled in preparation for your Shrimp, it should be kept in a aquatic clean room. The tank should be covered temperature should be maintained at between 64-68. PH should be below 6.8 and should not vary more than .2 in a 48 hour period or more than .5 in 14 days. KH should be maintained around 0-1 with trace elements provided by mineral rocks, GH should be around under 4.
Claim 2 : Successful breeding of the young requires very low PH 5-5.5, with KH of 0-2 and GH of 4-6 with water between 68-70.
Claim 3 : "Easy to breed in a range of water conditions" Several German sites - pH 6 - 7.5, GH 2-10, KH 0-6, 68-75f (20-24 C)
My conclusion(read: Logical guess based on various accounts) using these sources and a bit of logic is that there are elements of truth to all of them. These shrimp may actually do better at warmer temperatures and closer to neutral pH if everything is perfect but those water conditions are also more friendly to the survival of pathogens (bacterial, Viral and fungal) which means if a pathogen is introduced then it can be devastating to a
population. I would venture to guess the suggestions of lower temperature and pH actually help the shrimp survive by making it less appealing to the unseen things that can cause shrimp do die rather than the "preference" of the shrimp.
Feeding :
They tend to be picky eaters, but generally it is accepted that blanched spinach and high grade vegetarian shrimp feed is sufficient. A varied diet is a healthy diet. There are also some reports of the benefits of feeding freeze dried copepods as a dietary supplement because the high amounts of calcium and protein and the ease of digestion, this is particularly recommended for the very young. Feeding as with all shrimp should be done in moderation.
30-Snowball Shrimp:
Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. white
The Snowball Shrimp is one of the most beautiful species of shrimp in the hobby. Its pure white coloration, including the eggs, are what really set this species apart from the rest. The Snowball Shrimp was named after the color of its eggs, which look like snowballs.
Background:
The Snowball Shrimp is directly related to the Blue Pearl Shrimp. Both were selectively bred by Ulf Gottschalk in Germany and derived from theNeocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis wild-type to achieve their respective coloration. The wild-type of this species was slowly bred to achieve all all white offspring, which eventually became known as the Snowball Shrimp. I must say that Ulf Gottschalk managed to achieve such a masterpiece and should be commended. Exactly the process of selectively breeding an all white species from the wild variety is unknown but I will hope to find this out soon.
Water Parameters:
The Snowball Shrimp can be housed in many different water parameters. I have kept them in a pH range from 6.0 to 8.0, soft and hard water, temperatures from 72F to 84F and in many different soils like ADA Aquasoil and normal gravel. Too low of a temperature is not recommended as breeding will slow. Clean water is of course very important. If the water is not clean then this species will not flourish.
Breeding:
The Snowball Shrimp is extremely prolific, meaning that they breed readily and virtually around the clock. A healthy colony will quickly multiply and females will be constantly pregnant. It is typically 30-45 days from pregnancy to hatching. The best way to tell if a female is close to hatching her eggs is by the appearance of a set of eyes inside each egg. This is easy to spot and will let you know that hatching is literally days away. Another way to tell is by the emergence of a new saddle when the female still has eggs. The emergence of the saddle is the indication that the female is prepared to have a new set of eggs and that the current eggs are close to hatching. Please look at the photo below to see Snowball Shrimp Eggs with eyes.
Remember that all color morphs (selectively bred colorful shrimp) are bred to produce only their respective color. Having them cross-breed with the same genus of another species defeats the purpose of even keeping a selectively bred species. Please read the article Will These Shrimp Interbreed for more detailed information on cross breeding and hybrids.
Feeding :
Feeding the Snowball Shrimp is also easy as they accept virtually any kind of shrimp/fish food. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
Sexing :
Sexing the Snowball Shrimp is very easy. Females are easy to identify as they are larger than the males, have a saddle, and also have a curved underbelly. The male is smaller, has very little white coloration and the "under belly" is a straight line with no curved shape. Below is a photo of a Snowball Shrimp saddle. Notice the tiny undeveloped eggs still in the ovaries.
31- Shrimp from Sulawesi Indonesia : ( Courtesy to : Practical ish keeping.co.uk )
Freshwater shrimp expert Chris Lukhaup explains how to keep the stunning new freshwater shrimps being exported from the Indonesian island of Sulawesi.
In the central highlands of the Indonesian island Sulawesi, formerly Celebes, the ancient systems of Lake Poso and the Malili lakes harbour two independent and endemic species flocks of the freshwater shrimp Caridina.
These are part of a well known genus in aquatics, but less well known, until now, were the flamboyant colour patterns in some species that resemble marine rather than typical freshwater shrimps.
However, these colourful shrimps are exclusive freshwater dwellers and occur only in those lake systems. They all have rather large eggs and their larvae only develop in freshwater " in contrast to other Caridina species with some salinity tolerance at the larval stage.
The fauna of Lake Poso and the so called Malili lakes, or Malili lake system, was first studied by Swiss naturalists and cousins Fritz and Paul Sarasin in 1895 (Lake Poso) and 1896 (Malili lakes). Apart from shrimps, the lakes are also home to several other endemic and partly colourful species; for example fish, snails, crabs or snakes.
An international team of researchers is describing the species diversity and trying to understand how it could evolve.
Lake Poso shrimps :
Lake Poso is a solitary lake with adjacent rivers and a maximum depth of 450m/1,476 . It has very low nutrient and organic content, or, in other words, it is oligotrophic.
Four shrimp species are currently described from the lake and its river system and are Caridina acutirostris, C. ensifera (the original 'red' form is pictured above), C. longidigita and C. sarasinorum " mainly by E Schenkel in 1902 based on the Sarasins collection and revised by Cai and Wowor in 2006.
Two more are currently described by Kristina von Rintelen, Germany, and collaborators. One of the new species is still known as Caridina ensifera, but recent anatomical and genetic analyses revealed the existence of two species with two distinct colour patterns of red and blue (compare von Rintelen, K von Rintelen, T and M Glaubrecht, (2007).
Red is the original C. ensifera described by Schenkel, 1902, and blue will be described as a new species. Both are difficult to distinguish if present as the alcohol-bleached material commonly found in scientific collections, although living specimens (adults and juveniles) can always be told apart.
Besides conspicuous blueish body appendages with an otherwise transparent body in blue versus not blueish in red, the main difference is prominent in the tail fan.
Blue has an elongated blue patch on the distal part of each endopod as an upside down V-shape, whereas red has a smaller red spot on the distal part of each exopod.
Both species are abundant in the lake itself but absent from the rivers, whereas, for example, C. acutirostris, not featured here, is a typical riverine species absent from the lake.
They not only differ in colour, but also in ecological preferences and behaviour.
Blue is rather stationary and mainly found on hard substrate (wood and rocks), whereas red is often found in pelagic swarms or sporadic on various kinds of soft and hard substrate: for example, sand, macrophytes and rocks.
The latter also has the highest density of all shrimps in the lake and is often caught by local fishermen.
Shrimps from Malili:
The Malili system comprises five lakes sharing a common drainage. The three major ones are Towuti, Matano and Mahalona with two small satellite lakes, Masapi and Lontoa or Wawontoa.
At approximately. 590m/1,935 Lake Matano is the eighth deepest lake worldwide. Canadian scientists measured its temperature at 27-29C/81-84F at the surface and around 27C/81F at 560m/1837 , a pH of 7.4 and a conductivity of 224 S that also did not change with depth.
Two of the Malili lakes, Matano and Towuti, and Lake Poso are known to be oligotrophic, although the three smaller lakes of Mahalona, Masapi and Lontoa are more shallow and probably have a higher nutrient content, and provide very similar ecological properties for its inhabitants.
The majority of the Malili shrimps were first collected in 1932 by R Woltereck and later described in 1937 by his daughter E Woltereck with eight species (Caridina lingkonae, C. lanceolata, pictured above, C. loehae, C. masapi, C. opaensis, C. tenuirostris, C. towutensis and C. spinata), followed by the description of C. spongicola, (Zitzler and Cai, 2006).
Currently Woltereck s species are revised and several new species are added by Kristina von Rintelen and Yixiong Cai from Singapore. Neither Schenkel nor Woltereck knew about the spectacular colours of their shrimps so unusual for the genus Caridina, although some colourful species have been sporadically described, for example C. trifasciata from Hong Kong.
All Malili species exclusively occur in the lake system, including its drainage, but some are widely distributed within the whole system. Others only occur in one or two of the lakes, or only in rivers. The lakes provide a number of micro-habitats with different substrates (soft like sand or plants, hard like rocks or wood), and the majority of shrimp species are specialised to one substrate.
Their detailed food compounds remain unknown, but in the gut of some specimens several diatoms were found, although they might also consume detritus and algae.
Distributed generalists :
Not all species are specialised. Some are generalists that often occur on different types of substrate and usually widely distributed within the Malili lake system.
Their choice of habitat is rather unspecific and they can occur on soft substrate (water plants, leaf litter) or hard substrate (wood, rocks).
These are for example Caridina lanceolata, C. masapi and C. sp., a still undescribed riverine species (pictured above).
While the latter only occurs in rivers surrounding the lakes, C. lanceolata and C. masapi mainly be seen in the lakes themselves.
C. masapi has the widest distribution of all shrimps, being the only one living in the small satellite lakes of Masapi and Lontoa, but also occurring in the other three lakes and in rivers.
C. lanceolata can mainly be found in the three major lakes Towuti, Matano and Mahalona and their connecting rivers such as the Tominanga or Petea.
All generalists have a less spectacular coloration than the other more specialised species; from a reddish-translucent pattern in C. lanceolata to brownish with lighter stripes in the other species.
The specialists :
More conspicuous are the colourful species usually not widely distributed within the Malili lake system, but rather occurring locally restricted and highly specialised.
One extreme example is C. spongicola which is associated with a yet undescribed freshwater sponge and whose occurrence is limited to those areas where the sponge grows.
Some other examples are described here. Colour patterns are species specific, their intensity however can change depending on food supply (substrate) and water conditions " for example, some red species were observed to turn blue under stress.
Typical rock dwellers :
There are a number of rock-dwelling species from Lake Towuti, the largest and southernmost of the Malili lakes, for example the beautiful C. spinata (pictured above), C. loehae and three other yet undescribed Caridina sp. C. lohae is mainly red with some white stripes or dots, C. spinata is rather dark red, sometimes almost purple with yellow or orange stripes.
The first C. sp. shows characteristic red and white longitudinal stripes with conspicuous white front legs (cheliped), the second a rather brown and white pattern of horizontal stripes. The colour pattern of the third closely resembles that of the sponge dweller C. spongicola, although it is a different species with specific substrate preferences.
These three undescribed species often occur together with C. loehae on gravel or smaller rocks in shallow water or with C. spinata between boulders in deeper water below 5m/.16 .
Another beautiful rock dwelling shrimp from Lake Matano is an also undescribed species that has a dark red body with white dots and white body appendages.
Life under leaves :
One lake species lives mainly under dead leaves, although it can ocasionally be found on other kinds of substrate.
It is mostly dark brown, sometimes almost black body coloration with lighter stripes optimally adjusted to the mainly dark brown colour of leaf litter in the lakes.
This species behaviour seems to be able to adjust for, when disturbed, it usually lets itself fall downwards instead of moving in other directions.
Swarming typeIn the Malili system, depending on time of day, two species were observed in larger swarms, similar to the red C. ensifera from Lake Poso.
One is C. lanceolata, the other C. lingkonae, whose inconspicuous reddish coloration resembles that of C. lanceolata, but which can also be characterised as a specialised pelagic species.
It often occurs in huge swarms mainly in Lake Towuti, but one specimen was also found in the smaller Lake Mahalona. More details about the life history of C. lingkonae are unknown.
The colour pattern of this as yet undescribed Caridina shrimp closely resembles that of the sponge-dwelling C. spongicola.
Sulawesi lake fauna :
The shrimps colour diversity is only one aspect of the fascinating fauna of Sulawesi's ancient lakes.
These are also home to many rare and unusual species, for example the shrimp sponge association that make it similarly worthy of protection as the Galpagos Islands.
Some of the highly specialised and locally restricted species with very small populations, especially the colourful ones, are already threatened with extinction by illegal logging around the lakes and other human impacts.
So, sampling living specimens should be sensibly limited to preserve the species and colour diversity for future generations.
32-Super Tiger
Caridina cantonensis sp. "Super Tiger"e
The Tiger Shrimp is a wonderful species to have in your shrimp collection. Its yellow head and yellow tail really offset the black stripes along the body. The Tiger Shrimp is in fact a species from the wild that is able to be bred in freshwater. As the Tiger Shrimp becomes more widespread throughout the hobby it has become a popular species for the "novice" shrimp hobbyist. The Tiger Shrimp is a great "second step" due to the fact that it is slightly more difficult to breed than the Red Cherry Shrimp, can be housed with the Red Cherry Shrimp and is cheaper than most other shrimp in the hobby.
Origin and Background:
The Super Tiger Shrimp is a wild species located in China as well as possibly other Asian countries. I was one of the first to bring these shrimp into the country (Alpha Pro Breeders) and was the first to get them to successfuly breed. Once a very high priced shrimp because of their rarity, the price has dropped substantially because of they are fairly easy to breed.
Breeding :
Like all other species, the Tiger Shrimp will breed extremely well and reproduce around the clock as long as it is healthy and happy. The tank water must be very clean and free of contaminants to make sure that the Tiger Shrimp is indeed happy. Each female Tiger Shrimp produces roughly 20-25 hatchlings and will do so constantly if the shrimp is healthy. Once hatching a batch of eggs it should take no more than a week for the same female Tiger Shrimp to once again possess eggs. Breeding the this species is not difficult whatsoever and I believe it is not more difficult than breeding Red Cherry Shrimp. The photo show the deep black stripes of the Super Tiger shrimp.
Sexing :
The female Super Tiger Shrimp are almost identical to the male Super Tiger Shrimp except for the round "undercarriage" below the females' body. The overall width of the body is also distinctly larger in the female Super Tiger Shrimp. The coloration stays the same for both male and female.
Water Parameters :
The water parameters for the Super Tiger Shrimp are typically the same as other Tiger Shrimp species. A pH around 6.5.7.5 is suitable and this species also prefers softwater. Clean water is also a must as with all other shrimp and a temperature around 74-78F seems to suit the Tiger Shrimp best from my experience. This species will breed very well as long as its water parameters are proper and the water is clean.
Feeding :
Feeding the Super Tiger Shrimp is easy. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, and the many shrimp food made espicially for them. shrimp Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
33-Tangerine Tiger Shrimp
Caridina serrata var. "Tangerine Tiger"
A durable shrimp and prolific breeder. It is more aggressive in behavior and breeding than most of the Caridina cantonensis shrimp on the market. It is rather strong and easy to breed for such a vibrant and active shrimp. While still somewhat pricey, it is a great beginner-intermediate shrimp.
Origin and Background :
Wild shrimp in China and became commercially available around 2011.
Breeding :
Tangerine tigers are aggressive breeders, in that the males will attempt to mate frequently and don't tend to have a preference to breed with other tangerine tigers as is often the case with many Caridina shrimp. For this reason Tangerine tigers should only be kept with Neocaridina shrimp as there is a high chance for hybrids otherwise. Tangerine tigers can produce 20-30 eggs every 30 days.
Sexing :
Females are larger and have a rounded undercarriage for holding eggs. can be difficult to sex unless full grown or if the saddle/eggs are visible.
Water Parameters :
This shrimp is adaptable to a range of water parameters. Like all shrimp it must be acclimated slowly depending on the difference of the shipped water and your tank water but once acclimated they tend to thrive easily. Temperatures can range from 62-78, ph from 6 to 8, gH 4-8, kH 3-6
Feeding :
They will eat most commercially available food, blanched vegetables, flakes, pellets, and just about all food that other shrimp eat. The can be issues with feeding pellets in larger colonies as that larger more aggressive shrimp can "hog" the food, but that is easily remedied by breaking the pellets into many smaller pieces.
34-Tiger Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis sp. "Tiger"
The Tiger Shrimp is a wonderful species to have in your shrimp collection. Its yellow head and yellow tail really offset the black stripes along the body. The Tiger Shrimp is in fact a species from the wild that is able to be bred in freshwater. As the Tiger Shrimp becomes more widespread throughout the hobby it has become a popular species for the "novice" shrimp hobbyist. The Tiger Shrimp is a great "second step" due to the fact that it is slightly more difficult to breed than the Red Cherry Shrimp, can be housed with the Red Cherry Shrimp and is cheaper than most other shrimp in the hobby.
Background :
The Tiger Shrimp is a wild species located in China as well as possibly other Asian countries. The Tiger Shrimp comes in many different wild colorations such as the Red Tiger Shrimp and more are also being discovered. Below is a photo of another wild variation of the Tiger Shrimp.
Water Parameters :
The water parameters for the Tiger Shrimp are typically the same as other Tiger Shrimp species. A pH around 6.5.7.5 is suitable and this species also prefers softwater. Clean water is also a must as with all other shrimp and a temperature around 76-78F seems to suit the Tiger Shrimp best from my experience. This species will breed very well as long as its water parameters are proper and the water is clean.
Breeding :
Like all other species, the Tiger Shrimp will breed extremely well and reproduce around the clock as long as it is healthy and happy. The tank water must be very clean and free of contaminants to make sure that the Tiger Shrimp is indeed happy. Each female Tiger Shrimp produces roughly 20-25 hatchlings and will do so constantly if the shrimp is healthy. Once hatching a batch of eggs it should take no more than a week for the same female Tiger Shrimp to once again possess eggs. Breeding the this species is not difficult whatsoever and I believe it is not more difficult than breeding Red Cherry Shrimp.
Sexing :
The female Tiger Shrimp are almost identical to the male Tiger Shrimp except for the round "undercarriage" below the females' body. The overall width of the body is also distinctly larger in the female Tiger Shrimp. The coloration stays the same for both male and female. You can see the difference if you observe the photo at the top of the page of a pregnant Tiger Shrimp and compare it to the picture below of a male Tiger Shrimp. Notice how the male Tiger Shrimp has no undercarriage and it is instead a straight line.
Feeding :
Feeding the Tiger Shrimp is easy. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time. Below is a photo of two Tiger Shrimp sharing a shrimp pellet.
35-White Bee Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis sp. "White Bee"
The White Bee Shrimp is also a rather old color morph of the wild Bee Shrimp. It is a white mutation of some otherwise more or less wild-looking bee shrimp strain. All colors except the white markings on the body are gone and both the eggs and ovaria are blue. The mutation here is much like that of Snowball Shrimp.
Background :
The exact origin and breeder who selectively bred this species is unknown. It is thought the it was discovered in Germany but the exact date is unknown. This species is not widespread and is very difficult to obtain. I am sure it will eventually become more widespread and potentially new strains can be developed from it. Little selective breeding has been done on them yet. Breeders had a hard time to keeping this strain alive in the beginning but those specimens available today are quite easy to keep and breed.
Water Parameters:
This species will breed very well as long as its water parameters are proper and the water is clean. The water parameters for the White Bee Shrimp are typically the same as other Bee Shrimp and Caridina species. A pH around 6.5-7.5 and a temperature around 76-78F is suitable. Clean water is also a must as with all other shrimp and this species also prefers softwater.
Breeding :
Like most Caridina species, the White Bee Shrimp will breed extremely well and reproduce around the clock as long as it is healthy and happy. Each female produces roughly 20-25 hatchlings. Once hatching a batch of eggs it should take no more than a week for the same female to once again possess eggs. The photo below shows several White Bee Shrimp including a pregnant one. Notice the light blue colored eggs and saddle.
Sexing :
The female White Bee Shrimp are almost identical to the male White Bee Shrimp except for the round "undercarriage" below the females' body. The overall width of the body is also distinctly larger in the female White Bee Shrimp. The coloration stays the same for both male and female. A great was to identify a female is by the appearance of a saddle. In the photo below you can see the light blue saddle of a female White Bee Shrimp.
Feeding :
Feeding the White Bee Shrimp is easy. They will eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time.
36-Wine Red Shrimp
Caridina cantonensis var. "Wine Red"
This is a vibrant red Taiwan Bee shrimp, and one of the most sought after shrimp in the hobby. This article will sum up many view points I have found over the internet from various breeders. These shrimp are expensive and breeders tend to be less than willing to give out information. While initially a very fragile variant these are getting increasingly stronger because they are being back bred to regular bee shrimp and well as hybrid (normal bee/Taiwan bee) shrimp, effectively making them more common in the hobby and easier to keep. Breeding and selling these shrimp can absolutely be lucrative but it is not easy and it is not a way to get rich quick. That said, the market for these rare and beautiful shrimp is growing and the demand is not likely to lower the prices on these shrimp much more than they already have. The information in this article is *at your own risk*, and is a collection of various sources; additionally, some of the information had to be translated and my German is not great.
Origin and Background:
There is some debate to the origin of this shrimp with some claiming it is a spontaneous mutation of the Snow White Bees while others claim that it is a cross between a (CRS)red bee/(CBS)black bee hybrid with Blue Bee. It is more generally accepted that it was a mutation rather than a complex cross breeding but there is still some debate.
Breeding :
Wine Reds can be bred to Black King Kongs, other Wine Reds, Panda, Shadow Pandas, Blue Bolt, Mischling, CRS, CBS shrimp, they can also probably mix with other Caridina cantonensis but the results of such mixing (Tigers and Bees) is not readily available. How you breed your Wine Reds really should depend on your line and the breeder you are dealing with. Your breeder should be able to give you some indication of the survival rates of the particular shrimp you are buying. BKKxBKK suruvival rates can be lower than 10% but could be as high as 100% (although unlikely), and you should understand the quality of the specimen you are receiving. It may be better to have multiple tanks on shared water/filtration to make it easier and safer to separate berried females into birthing tanks. Unless you know your lines are strong enough that Wine Red x Wine Red has a high survival rate it may be beneficial to pick up some hybrids as they will have a higher survival rate.
Sexing :
The Wine Red Shrimp can be difficult to sex until some time after sexual maturity is reached. It is nearly impossible to identify a saddle except when back lit on some individuals on the females and even if a female is berried it can be difficult to spot the eggs at first glance. Once they are well into sexual maturity size and body shape can be used to identify the sexes as females will be a little larger and have a rounder undercarriage as is the case with most Caridina cantonensis species.
Water Parameters :
Where to begin, there are many claims to successful breeding in a variety of water parameters. Instead of listing the highs and lows I would rather outline several of the more frequent or reliable claims. Generally most people do not recommend keeping them in smaller tanks, at least 25 gallons is often recommended, the reason for this is the more volume of water the easier it is to maintain constant water parameters. Independent of the claims of what water parameters are best all sources recommend that whatever they are they remain constant, larger amounts of water are easier to maintain at a constant value and natural changes tend to occur less rapidly in larger bodies of water. Another common suggestion is going a little overboard on the filtration: sponge filters, aeration, HoB, Canister filters, ect. Usually more than one is used sometimes all are recommended, no matter how you achieve it, your water should be very clean, almost drinkable clean. (Order is not meant to imply correctness)
Claim 1 : Water parameters are less important than the water being sterile and free from contaminants of any type. Once a tank is successfully cycled in preparation for your Shrimp, it should be kept in a aquatic clean room. The tank should be covered temperature should be maintained at between 64-68. PH should be below 6.8 and should not vary more than .2 in a 48 hour period or more than .5 in 14 days. KH should be maintained around 0-1 with trace elements provided by mineral rocks, GH should be around under 4.
Claim 2 : Successful breeding of the young requires very low PH 5-5.5, with KH of 0-2 and GH of 4-6 with water between 68-70.
Claim 3 : "Easy to breed in a range of water conditions" Several German sites - pH 6 - 7.5, GH 2-10, KH 0-6, 68-75f (20-24 C)
My conclusion(read: Logical guess based on various accounts) using these sources and a bit of logic is that there are elements of truth to all of them. These shrimp may actually do better at warmer temperatures and closer to neutral pH if everything is perfect but those water conditions are also more friendly to the survival of pathogens (bacterial, Viral and fungal) which means if a pathogen is introduced then it can be devastating to a population. I would venture to guess the suggestions of lower temperature and pH actually help the shrimp survive by making it less appealing to the unseen things that can cause shrimp do die rather than the "preference" of the shrimp.
Feeding:
They tend to be picky eaters, but generally it is accepted that blanched spinach and high grade vegetarian shrimp feed is sufficient. A varied diet is a healthy diet. There are also some reports of the benefits of feeding freeze dried copepods as a dietary supplement because the high amounts of calcium and protein and the ease of digestion, this is particularly recommended for the very young. Feeding as with all shrimp should be done in moderation.
37-Yellow Shrimp :
Neocaridina heteropoda var "yellow"
The Yellow Shrimp is one of the only yellowed colored shrimp in the hobby. It is a selectively bred from the same wild type as the Red Cherry Shrimp to obtain its yellow coloration. It is favored by many hobbyists due to its unique color, hardiness and breeding rate.
Background:
The origin of the Yellow Shrimp lies in Japan and is a color morph of the wild Neocaridina Heteropoda species. The date of their creation seems to be around 2006 or a few years earlier. To my knowledge the Yellow Shrimp were first introduced to other countries in 2006. The exact breeder who created this color morph is unknown. The Yellow Shrimp is now widespread throughout the hobby as it is extremely prolific.
Water Parameters:
The Yellow Shrimp can be housed in many different water parameters. I have kept them in a pH range from 6.0 to 8.0, soft and hard water, temperatures from 72F to 84F and in many different soils like ADA Aquasoil and normal gravel. It is common knowledge that, like its cousin the Red Cherry Shrimp, the Yellow Shrimp can live in almost any freshwater aquarium given that the tank is habitable and does not contain predators of course. The Yellow Shrimp is an extremely versitile and reproduction shrimp given that the water is clean and maintained properly.
Breeding:
The Yellow Shrimp is extremely prolific, meaning that they breed readily and virtually around the clock. A healthy colony will quickly multiply and females will be constantly pregnant. It is typically 30-45 days from pregnancy to hatching. The female carries over 25 eggs at adulthood. It is said that sometimes it seems that the Yellow Shrimp carries so many eggs it appears as if some will fall out. The best way to tell if a female is close to hatching her eggs is by the appearance of a set of eyes inside each egg. This is easy to spot and will let you know that hatching is literally days away. In the photo below you can see the Yellow Shrimp eggs with eye appearing.
Another great way to tell is by the emergence of a new saddle when the female still has eggs. The emergence of the saddle is the indication that the female is prepared to have a new set of eggs and that the current eggs are close to hatching. Please look at the photo below to see a pregnant Yellow Shrimp female with eggs as well as with a saddle.
Sexing :
Sexing the Yellow Shrimp is very easy. Females are easy to identify as they are larger than the males, have a much darker yellow coloration, and also have a curved underbelly. In the photo below you can see how the male is smaller, has less yellow coloration and the "under belly" is a straight line with no curved shape.
You can also distinguish a female from a male because a female Yellow Shrimp will frequently have a saddle, if not eggs as well. Females may also have a stripe along their back which males will not have. Below is a photo of a Yellow Shrimp saddle. Notice the tiny undeveloped yellow eggs in the ovaries.
Feeding :
Feeding the Yellow Shrimp is also easy as they accept virtually any kind of shrimp/fish food. They eat anything from blanched spinach, zucchini, algae wafers, shrimp pellets, fish flakes, bloodworms, and more. Feeding is best done once a day. Only feed an amount of food that the shrimp can finish within 2-3 hours maximum. It is not good to feed in excess and have food sitting for too long. Overfeeding is a known cause of death and can also cause water quality issues. Remember that shrimp are scavengers in the wild. They will eat whatever they find and are not used to a constant food source 24/7. Not feeding for one or two days is fine and will not harm this species at all. Sometimes I will not feed for a couple of days in order to let the shrimp cleanse their systems and keep the water clean at the same time. In the photo below you can see a Yellow Shrimp claw which it uses for feeding.
