Crocodiles Handling | tropical-hobbies

Crocodiles Handling :

Handling crocodiles :

Crocodiles do not like to be handled.

While crocodiles will get used to regular handling, you should always be on guard when handling a crocodile.

Always handle young crocodiles gently.

Try to give new crocodiles several weeks to settle into the enclosure before handling them.

The best way to hold a crocodile is with a firm grip around the neck, and your other hand under the body.

Larger crocodiles may need this second hand to support the base of the tail.

An elastic band can be placed around the snout of the crocodile to make sure it doesn't bite.

Approach the crocodile from behind and close the jaws at this angle before fitting the band.

Always remove the band when you return the animal to its enclosure.

Interview with a Crocodile Handler

courtesy to : www.divethereef.com/Guides/CrocHandler.asp

“Wanted: Crocodile handler, no experience necessary, will train. Must be comfortable working in enclosed places with large predaceous reptiles.” Could you imagine reading that in the employment available section of the want ads? Could you imagine applying for such a position?

In this part of Australia you can occasionally read such an ad. There are two different companies in the Cairns that have people on their payroll who work with crocodiles on a regular basis. I spoke with David Leyden, head curator at Hartley’s Creek Crocodile Farm about the operation that he oversees.

David told me that Hartleys’ Creek raises hundreds of crocodiles. They care for some 40 breeding pairs of estuarine crocodiles, each of whom is big enough to attack and kill a cow, (or something smaller, like a person.) These breeding pairs are the foundation for two of the company’s main sources of revenue.

The female of each breeding pair lays eggs every year during the wet season, in a large mound of soil and vegetation that will serve as an incubator for the eggs. In the wild the female monitors the incubation of the eggs, and protects them from predators. At Hartleys’ Creek the eggs are taken from the nest within 24 hours of their being laid, and placed in an incubator. This ensures a better hatching rate than possible in the actual nest. The incubation serves another purpose, as the temperature of egg incubation, both in nature and in the lab, determines the gender of the offspring. In the case of the farm, a temperature is selected to produce a higher proportion of male young, which grow to a marketable size more quickly than females. The young are farmed; raised as a legal and sustainable supply of meat and leather. Crocodile meat can be found on many restaurant menus in the area.

The least temperamental of the breeding crocodiles are also exhibited in the Farm’s wildlife park, where visitors can see them safely from a close distance and learn about the biology and ecology of these unique animals.

I know if I was a large crocodile seeing some nicely-sized prey item jump in my pen I would be encouraged!

I saw David do one of these presentations at the park. Armed with a microphone/headset, a bucket full of chicken pieces, and a very chewed looking rope, he confidently stepped into the pen. About two minutes prior to David’s entrance, the crocodile, named Yard, surfaced from the bottom of the pond. Crocodiles are ambush hunters, and in the wild recognize patterns of behavior of their prey, enabling them to station themselves in the right place for a successful ambush. This crocodile was no different, having learned that at 11:00am and 3:00pm someone shows up in his enclosure.

While explaining about the biology and behavior of crocodiles, the crocodile and David maneuvered about the pen. I would like to think that the croc was stalking the contents of the bucket, and had learned that it would be fed. Part of me wondered if the animal was stalking something else: David. David moved carefully kept his distance from the reptile, and did a very good job of stating the case for these interesting animals. The rope seemed to be used to distract the reptile, as when thrown near the animal he snapped it right up and gave it a tug (taste?)

Nearly hunted to extinction for their skins early this century, the populations of these animals have recovered to their previous levels in most parts of Australia. David explained that the animals are totally protected in the wild, and wildlife biologists monitor their populations closely.

However, the safe distance doesn’t apply to the trainers, who get right in the enclosure with these reptiles to encourage them to come out and be more visible to visitors.

Locally things are not going so well for crocodiles, populations have not recovered. David explained: “It is difficult to balance the recovery of crocodiles in areas near humans. This section of coastline is the largest area of overlap of human populations and prime crocodile habitat. In this area all but small crocodiles are removed from the wild, to protect humans.” While David agrees with the need to protect humans, he worries about the effect of the absence of crocodiles will have on local ecosystems.

“Crocodiles are an important part of local ecosystems, other organisms depend on their presence, and the ecosystems are not as balanced without them present.. David is also concerned about the false sense of security such a removal program may give the public. “Crocodiles are very mobile animals, and can migrate up and down the coast. Humans always need to be careful in this area, for a croc could have recently moved into an area.

David began his career at Hartley’s Creek working with crocodiles, after working for 8 1/2 years at the Melbourne Zoo. As head curator, he is responsible for the care of all animals in the park, as well as the training and supervision of his staff. David explained how his newly hired staff is trained. “Training someone takes at least 18 months, and they start working with the smallest animals, crocodiles are just a foot long at hatching. As they get more familiar and comfortable they move up to larger and larger animals.” “Ultimately the person has to be comfortable in the pen with the large crocs, and I have to be comfortable with them being in there.”

David tells me that the temperament of the large crocs varies. “Charlie is one of our stars, pointing at a 13-foot reptile basking the edge of a pond. He is easy to work with, has been here for years, and puts on a good show. Charles, on the other hand, is totally the opposite; all he wants to do is attack you, even if you are on the other side of the fence. Charles is still valuable as a breeder, but we will never put someone in the enclosure with him.”

Anticipating my question about the origin of any openings they have, David went on to explain that the few opening they have for wildlife keepers are the result of people moving or retiring, and that they have a perfect safety record during his tenure there as curator. “While it may seem like it is not a very attractive position, the last time we advertised locally for an opening we had, we had 81 applicants, so don’t even think about applying.”

Those of you interested in visiting Hartley’s Creek Crocodile Farm can find it 40 km north of Cairns on the Cook Highway. Crocodile show times are 11:00am and 3:00pm. Admission is AUD$18 for adults, AUD$9 for children. The company also runs a transport system, and will transfer you to and from your Port Douglas, Cairns, or Northern Beaches Lodging. You can find you more about the farm at : www.crocodileadventures.com.

FAQs regarding the Handling of crocodiles :

courtesy to : crocodilian.com/crocfaq/faq-6.html

Opinions on whether to handle a caiman or other crocodilian vary quite a bit, but there is no right answer to this question. If the animal is primarily for display, then regular handling will not be on the list of priorities. In addition, some people feel that every time you handle your animal, you will cause it stress - which can cause it to stop feeding. The opposite view is that regular handling can be beneficial for both caiman and owner, for the very reason that it will reduce stress in the long-term. Most owners would prefer to handle their animal regularly in order to calm it down and discourage it from biting out of fear.

If you subscribe to the latter view, it is important to start handling your caiman when it's still very young or you'll find it increasingly difficult to make any impression as the animal grows larger. A young crocodilian will initially regard you as a threat - a predator about to eat it. When you pick it up, the caiman will often produce a "distress call" - a loud, characteristic call which basically means "help!" and sounds like "eeow!" The more often you pick the caiman up and handle it, the more it will begin to habituate to your presence - learning that being picked up is not the prelude to a dinner, with the caiman as the main course. Over time, if you spend enough time with the animal, it will start to become calmer around you, and be less inclined to bite. It may even be possible to end up with a relatively tame caiman after a year or two. However, individual temperaments vary, and one caiman is not the same as another. Remember also that, while a caiman may get used to you and be less inclined to bite, it might still be capable of confusing your hand for a piece of food. Be careful, and read the advice in the feeding section of this FAQ regarding safe feeding methods (see 5.3.1).

Another advantage of handling your caiman regularly is that you'll find tasks such as cleaning the enclosure far easier if the caiman isn't panicking all the time. It will also mean that the caiman is under less stress whenever you go near it or interact with it in some way. However, do not be lulled into a false sense of security with your animal - remember what it is capable of, especially when it grows larger. Many people feel that the feeding reflex of a crocodilian is very hard to inhibit under all circumstances.

7.2 When should I start handling my caiman?

If you want to handle your caiman, you must start as soon as possible. You'll find the task much easier when the animal is still small - the caiman requires less effort to handle, and its bites are far less painful if you make a mistake. Hopefully, when the caiman starts to grow larger, it will eventually become considerably calmer towards you. An aggressive adult caiman is virtually impossible to calm down, and interaction becomes much more dangerous.

7.3 How often should I handle my caiman?

Your caiman can be handled very frequently, at least once a day for several minutes. However, don't forget to consider the caiman's requirements - if it's much colder outside its enclosure, then don't deprive it of its comfortable heat and warmth for too long. If you're over-handling your animal, it may start to become stressed and eat less - monitor its food intake and leave it alone for a few days if you suspect this is the case. Don't handle your animal for a few hours after it's been fed - a stressed caiman may regurgitate its dinner, and there is a possibility of the animal choking on regurgitated food.

Figure 1. Picking up a small crocodilian, one hand behind neck, one hand on base of tail.

Figure 2. Holding a juvenile in one arm, hand securely behind neck, tail pinned against body.

Figure 4. Holding a juvenile with two hands, one securely behind the neck, the other securely around the pelvis and back legs.

Figure 5. Holding a juvenile with two hands, one securely behind the neck, the other near the base of the tail.

Figure 6. Animals which are not struggling should still be supported properly and a cautionary hand held around the neck to prevent sudden movements.

Figure 3. Holding a juvenile in one arm, hand securely underneath chest. Croc's body is supported from below, tail is pinned against body.

Relatively small crocodilians (2 to 3 feet long) can often be held safely in one arm, supporting the body with your arm and pinning the tail between your arm and your body to prevent struggling (Fig. 7.2, 7.3). Alternatively, and especially with animals too large to be held safely in one arm, the caiman should be held firmly with one hand around the neck and shoulders (supporting it from below), and the other hand firmly holding the base of the tail (Fig. 7.4, 7.5). The tail can then be secured underneath the arm and pinned against your body to prevent it from thrashing or rolling. Some people prefer to grasp the back leg firmly from below with the palm of the hand, but in this case it is still important to support the weight of the pelvis on your lower arm. If you're holding the caiman comfortably, it will normally settle down and allow itself to be held without biting (Fig. 7.6), but if it tries to bite then firmer pressure around the neck will be enough to prevent it from twisting its head around. Crocodilians are adept at lightning-fast sideswipes of the head, so be careful where you put your fingers.

Never pick up a crocodilian by the tail only, or the next thing you'll see might be numerous teeth sinking into your hand - many crocodilian species have very flexible bodies and can twist around if held by the tail to bite you.

-What's the best way to pick up a caiman?

The answer to this question depends upon the size of the animal. For smaller animals, especially hatchlings, it's better to try and lift the animal carefully from underneath, and restrain it gently within the palm of one hand. Placing a thumb over a rear leg or the base of the tail will help to restrain it without restricting all movements. If the animal is trying to bite, placing a gentle grip over the shoulders and neck with the forefinger and thumb is enough to prevent the head from turning and biting you. When picking up a hatchling, there is often little need to "pounce" on it like a cat, which will only serve to stress it out and increase its desire to bite you. Some owners prefer to pick up their animals by approaching from the side, rather than from above (like a predator might do). This way the caiman can see you coming and perhaps recognise your hand as no threat. Be warned, however, that this method is only acceptable for small hatchlings. Larger animals need to be picked up with safety in mind (Fig. 7.1), and when you approach from the side you have a much greater chance of being bitten by a sideswipe of the head. A 30cm (12 inch) hatchling won't make much of an impression if it bites, but even a 60cm (2 ft) juvenile can rip your finger open. Using a special catching noose (not illustrated) is definitely the safest way of catching and restraining a sub-adult crocodilian.

sharp teeth which project above and below the jaw-line even with the mouth shut.

The band needs to be moderately tight, or the jaws will open a fraction - enough to slip a finger inside. Adhesive tape can be used on larger animals, such as gaffer / duct tape in which the adhesive is not too strong. Be careful when removing the tape - some keepers feel that it can damage the skin, although most professional croc workers use this tape and never have any problems with scalation damage. Melissa Kaplan describes another method: "We used a velcro strap configuration - two loops joined by a straight piece. One, smaller loop is secured around the front of the snout behind the nostrils. A second, larger loop is securely fastened near the back of the jaws. For larger crocs, a third loop can be situated so that it wraps around the top of the neck - left to its own devices too long, a canny croc can contrive to undo the lower loop by scratching with its front feet. Having the third loop reduces the amount of sliding and prevents the croc from slipping it off." Use whatever method you are happy with, but I personally think tape is the simplest and safest method.

Be cautious when you cover the jaws - do not cover the fleshy nostril "button" at the tip of the snout. When the jaws are closed, this is the only way the crocodilian can breath. Covering it will lead to suffocation after a couple of hours or less. Elastic bands have been known to slip over this button as the animal struggles, and the animal has died. Consider your own safety, but never neglect the animal's welfare.

For added safety, it may be a good idea to secure the jaws. While crocodilians have perhaps the most powerful bite of any animal when adult, the musculature that opens the jaws is far weaker. The jaws can easily be held shut with a hand, but it is safer to use an elastic band, masking / duct tape or some other kind of fabric loop- otherwise a struggling animal can slice through your flesh with its

Should I use gloves?

Some keepers prefer to use gloves when they handle crocodilians, so that the effect of any bite is reduced. However, others feel that using gloves can hinder your grasp on the animal, and make it hard to judge pressure. Also, gloves will not stop the bite of a more powerful animal, so their value is questionable. Personally, I prefer not to use gloves. If you are careful when you handle any crocodilian, and don't rush things, you should not get bitten. In the end, it is personal choice. Gloves can be very useful, for example, if you want to clean the enclosure without handling the animal - just in case your hand gets too close to its jaws.

7.6 How do I release my caiman again?

I've seen quite a few people (myself included!) get bitten by a crocodilian after they have let it go - the animal can turn the head around rapidly once it's released and deliver a powerful bite. Always release the animal pointing away from you, preferably into the water where it will swim away. If you propel the animal away from you into water, it won't have time to turn and bite before it slips out of range. Release your hands from around the neck and tail at the same time, and never hold onto the tail after you've released the neck - the crocodilian body is very flexible, and can easily twist around 180 degrees to try and bite you. Of course, don't forget to remove the elastic band or other restraint around the animal's jaws before you let it go or it won't be able to eat.

7.7 What about handling a larger caiman?

The word "handle" in this context does not really include picking up a large crocodilian - large meaning anything over 1.2 to 1.5 metres (4 to 5 feet). Large, aggressive animals are best kept at a distance in most circumstances, and they're also extremely heavy! With the rare exception of very tame crocodilians, they can be very hazardous to handle and normally require the assistance of at least a second person in order to be safe. It is dangerous to capture larger crocodilians using just your bare hands, because it is difficult to prevent the powerful head from whipping around and delivering a very nasty bite. There is also no way you can hold down a very large and aggressive animal by yourself, no matter what you've seen on TV. A catchpole may be necessary to hold the neck while a second or third person concentrates on restraining the body and securing the animal's jaws. If your once timid caiman is so difficult to handle, however, it is far better not to do so unless absolutely necessary. Cleaning of the enclosure can often be performed without handling the caiman, using a broom or other long wooden pole to gently nudge the animal out of the way if necessary. A gentle tap on the top of the head or the base of the tail is nearly always enough to encourage the animal to move away from you. Hitting an animal hard enough to injure it is the domain of idiots.

Tim Wiegmann has an alternative method: "In smaller enclosures, you can use a wooden shield much like an additional wall. The shield is just a square of wood with a handle on one side. It is very easy to push small to medium sized animals out of the way if you need to move through the enclosure."

If you use such a shield, make sure there is a handle on the back and don't hold it by the edges. A wooden pole is preferable in larger enclosures with bigger animals - this way the crocodilian can be kept at a suitable distance. Keep the pole away from the side of the jaws, or it might be bitten hard and your animal will likely lose a few teeth and you'll also need a new pole.

Capture and restraint methods for very large and aggressive animals are outside the scope of this FAQ, and there is no way you can learn how to do this by reading an essay - you must have first-hand experience. Look for an experienced and responsible instructor such as a vet or trained handler at a reputable crocodile farm or zoo.

What do I do if my caiman bites me?

Crocodilian bites usually come in two flavours - quick, warning bites where the teeth barely puncture the skin, and long, holding bites where the crocodilian applies a considerable amount of pressure and does not let go. The latter are obviously more painful - and dangerous in large animals particularly if the animal thrashes its head or rolls its body.

The key to dealing with a holding bite is not to panic. If you try and pull your finger / hand / whatever free, you'll cause more damage as the teeth tear through your skin (see photo to left). Gently tapping the upper jaw can often elicit the animal to open its mouth slightly. Try and prevent the crocodilian from twisting its body and rolling, which will do a considerable amount of damage. As a last resort, a pair of screwdrivers can be placed laterally across the mouth near the back of the throat and used to pry the jaws apart.

In this case, someone should hold the animal's neck and head firmly in position from behind to prevent a second bite once released - another reason why it's important to always have at least one other person with you when working with any crocodilian over 1.2 to 1.5 metres (4 to 5 feet) in length.

The resulting wound should be disinfected using chlorohexadine (Nolvasan or Hibiclens) or povidone-iodine (Betadine) as soon as possible. The teeth of a crocodilian often harbour an interesting diversity of nasty organisms, and I've seen a number of unpleasant infections resulting from even quite minor wounds.

Other websites about Handling :

- www.ehp.qld.gov.au/wildlife/livingwith/pdf/cp-wl-croc-handling-transport.pdf

- myfwc.com/conservation/you-conserve/wildlife/gators/

- www.fao.org/docrep/006/t0226e/t0226e14.htm

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