Angelfish Genetics - Types of angelfish:
Thanks in large part to Dr. Joanne Norton much is known about the genetics of angelfish. Dr Norton’s work, published between May 1982 and March 1994 in Freshwater and Marine Aquarium magazine, still stands as the cornerstone of what we know today. Similar to the genetics of all vertebrate organisms angelfish carry two copies of each gene, one which is inherited maternally, one which is inherited paternally. Mutations in various genes lead to interesting and unique color and pattering which, through selective breeding, have generated a number of beautiful angelfish phenotypes. Although a number of angelfish phenotypes have been isolated (described below), the details of total chromosome number, and the precise location on these chromosomes has not yet been determined. While a precise genetic location has not been identified, the trem ‘locus’ is used to describe an area where these mutations reside, and independently segregate during reproduction.
In angelfish of the species Pterophyllum scalare, eight different loci have been identified to have non-wild alleles that alter the appearance of the fish, or phenotype. Many different phenotypes can be formed from combinations of alleles for these mutations. This library contains photographs and information about a large array of these phenotypes, starting with the wild and wild type phenotype, then with phenotypes that occur as a result of mutations at each individual locus, and finally with phenotypes that occur from interactions between alleles at two or more locus.
1- Wild Type ( Silver type ) :
Wild-type angelfish (+/+) are typically described in two ways, "wild" and "silver". The term "wild" indicates that the fish was either caught wild or is the offspring of a wild caught angelfish. This term is usually used until the progeny become less than 25% wild at which point their designation becomes "silver". The term "silver" describes an anglefish which contains all wild type genes (no mutations) however was not caught in the wild and is considered domestic.
Both "wild" and "silver" angelfish have the same overall appearance with 3 distinct vertical body stripes, one covering the eye, one midbody and one in the rear which extends into the dorsal and anal fins. It is interesting to note that these stripes can sometimes fade (see pictures above) if the angelfish becomes excited or water conditions are not optimal. Wild caught angelfish often show unique body coloration of gold, green and/or blue.
2- Single Locus Phenotypes:
phenotypes that occur from the presence of or interaction between alleles at each individual locus :
- Dark Locus :
A- Black Phenotypes
- Double Dark Black
- Hybrid Black
1- Wild type
2- Single Locus Phenotypes:
phenotypes that occur from the presence of or interaction between alleles at each individual locus:
-Dark Locus
- Zebra Locus
-Smokey Locus
- Streaked Locus
- Veiled Locus
-Pearlscale Locus
-Half-Black Locus
- Albino Locus .
2- Multiple Locus Phenotypes:
phenotypes that occur from the interaction between alleles at two or more loci
-Albino Pearlscale
-Black Ghost
-Black Blushing
-Black Clown
-Black Lace Halfblack
-Black Lace Pearlscale
-Black Pearlscale
-Blue Koi
-Chocolate Black
-Chocolate Black Blushing
-Chocolate Black Ghost
-Chocolate Blushing
-Chocolate Ghost
-Chocolate Lace
-Chocolate Turquoise Blushing
-Gold Pearlscale
-Gold Marble Pearlscale Halfblack Blushing
-Halfblack Ghost
-Halfblack Pearlscale
-Koi
-Leopard
-Leopard Black
-Leopard Black Ghost
-Leopard Lace
-Marble Blushing
-Marble Ghost
-Marble Pearlscale
-Silver Ghost Gold Marble
-Silver Ghost Pearlscale
-Silver Marble Ghost
-Smokey Black
-Smokey Black Blushing
-Smokey Black Ghost
-Smokey Blue Koi
-Smokey Blushing
-Smokey Ghost
-Smokey Gold Marble
-Smokey Lace
-Smokey Leopard
-Smokey Leopard Black
-Smokey Leopard Lace
-Smokey Pearlscale
-Smokey Marble
-Smokey Turquoise Blushing
-Streaked Black
-Streaked Black Lace
-Sunset
-Turquoise Blushing
-Zebra Halfblack
-Zebra Lace
- Black Lace: The black lace is an attractive phenotype that is formed by combining one dark allele with one wild allele: D/+. The dark and wild alleles are co-dominant, resulting in a blending of the two traits. This results in coloration in which the body is somewhat darkened to a light charcoal color, but not a deep black. The wild type stripes show clearly. The tail and fins have a lacy pattern. The stripes will fade or darken with the mood of a black lace, as in a silver angelfish. The overall charcoal coloration of the body, however, will remain constant.
B- Marble Phenotypes:
The allele for marble is on the dark locus and is designated with the symbol M.
The non-wild alleles at this locus at this locus that appear in marble phenotypes are:
Marble (M), Gold Marble (Gm), Gold (g)
- Marable :
A homozygous marble is mostly black with a small amount of white marbling. Some marbles will also exhibit orange on the crown. The tail, dorsal and anal fins will typically exhibit some combination of black and white bands or stripes running the length of the tail or fin. Occasionally an entire fin or tail may be completely white or completely black. Both of the ventral fins may be black, both white, or one may be black and the other white.
A heterozygous marble has a similar appearance to M/M, except that a larger area of the body will be white. Generally, the amount of white increases some in M/Gm, and increases further in M/g. However, there is not a distinct demarcation between the amount of white for each genotype.
As a result of selective breeding, some strains of marble will tend to have more white than others. It is impossible to accurately identify the genotype without either knowing the genetics of the parents or doing a test cross. A test cross with a gold angelfish can be used to verify the genotype of a marble. The phenotypes of the offspring will identify whether one marble allele is paired with another marble allele, a gold marble allele, or a gold allele.
Silver Marble:
A silver marble is a heterozygous marble in which one marble allele is paired with one wild type allele. The genotype is shown as M/+. The marble and wild type alleles are co-dominant; the silver marble shows a blending of the two traits. The angelfish will have a marbled appearance. However, the coloration will be more muted, with grayish silver instead of white. This phenotype is sometimes also referred to as a barred marble because the stripes of the wild type can sometimes be seen.
Marble Ghost :
Marble Blushing :
C-Gold Marble Phenotypes:
The allele for gold marble is on the dark locus and is designated with the symbol Gm.
The non-wild alleles at this locus that appear in gold marble phenotypes are:
Gold Marble (Gm), Gold (g)
A gold marble is predominantly pale gold colored with random black markings. The tail, dorsal and anal fins will typically exhibit some combination of black and white bands or stripes running the length of the tail or fin. Occasionally an entire fin or tail may be completely white or completely black. The ventral fins may both be black, both white, or one may be black and the other white. The crown is typically darker than the body, with a dark yellow to orange coloration.
A heterozygous gold marble (Gm/g) will generally exhibit less area with black markings than a homozygous gold marble (Gm/Gm). Sometimes the black markings may only consist of one or two small black spots. However, the amount of black can very from one fish to another, and from one strain to another, making it generally difficult to determine the genotype accurately in most gold marbles.
Silver Gold Marble :
A silver gold marble is a heterozygous marble in which one marble allele is paired with one wild type allele. The genotype is shown as Gm/+. The gold marble and wild type alleles are co-dominant, and the silver gold marble shows a blending of the two traits. The coloration will be more muted, grayish silver instead of gold, with black random black patches. The stripes of the wild silver type will typically be present, thus it is also often called a barred gold marble.
D-Gold Phenotypes :
The allele for gold is on the dark locus and is designated with the symbol g.
The only allele at this locus that appears in gold phenotypes is:
Gold (g)
- Zebra/Stripeless Locus :
A- Ghost :
B- Blushing :
C- Zebra :
D- Clown :
- Smokey Locus :
Non-wild alleles at this locus at this locus: Smokey (Sm)
Possible phenotypes:
Smokey (Sm/+), Chocolate (Sm/Sm)
A- Smokey :
B-Chocolate :
- Streaked Locus :
Non-wild alleles at this locus:
Streaked (St)
Possible phenotypes:
Streaked (St/+, St/St)
- Veiled Locus :
Non-wild alleles at this locus:
Veiled (V)
Possible phenotypes:
Veiled (V/+), Superveil (V/V)
B- Superveiled:
A- Veiled :
C- Combtail :
D- Ribbontails :
- Pearlscale (Pearly) Locus :
Non-wild alleles at this locus at this locus:
Pearly/Pearlscale (p)
Possible phenotypes:
pearly/pearlscale (p/p)
- Halfblack Locus :
Non-wild alleles at this locus:
Halfblack (h)
Possible phenotypes:
Halfblack (h/h)
- Albino Locus :
Non-wild alleles at this locus: albino (a)
Possible phenotypes:
albino (a/a)
3- Multiple Locus Phenotypes :
- Albino Pearlscale:
- Black Ghost and Hybrid Black Ghost :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form these phenotypes:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S)
A- BLACK GHOST:
B- BLACK CLOWN :
B- BLACK GHOST:
- Black Blushing (Black Velvet) :
- Clown Black and Black Clown :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form these phenotypes:
Dark (D), Zebra and Stripeless (Z/S)
A- CLOWN BLACK :
- Black Lace Half-black:
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Half-black (h)
-- No Photo --
-Black Lace Pearlscale :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Pearlscale (p)
-- No Photo --
- Black Pearlscale :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Pearlscale (p)
- Silver Gold Marble Blushing (Blue Koi) :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold Marble (Gm), Stripeless (S)
- Chocolate Black :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Chocolate Black Blushing (Velvet):
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
-Chocolate Black Ghost :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Chocolate Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Stripeless (S)
- Chocolate Ghost :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Stripeless (S)
- Chocolate Lace :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Smokey (Sm)
- Gold Marble Pearlscale :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold Marble (Gm), Pearlscale (p)
-Chocolate Turquoise Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Gold Pearlscale :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold (g), Pearlscale (p)
- Halfblack Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Halfblack (h), Stripeless (S)
- Halfblack Ghost :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Halfblack (h), Stripeless (S)
- Half-black Pearlscale :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Half-black (h), Pearlscale (p)
- Koi (Gold Marble Blushing) :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold Marble (Gm), Stripeless (S)
The gold marble blushing phenotype is probably best knows as a “koi.” The koi angelfish is a gold marble angelfish with two doses of the stripeless allele. A koi angelfish has one of the following genotypes:
Gm/Gm – S/S
Gm/g – S/S
The koi angelfish gets its name from the combination of black, white and orange coloration because these same colors are often found in the koi carp, a popular pond fish.
A gold marble blushing angelfish will have a white body with black marble-patterned markings. In addition, it will commonly have orange on the crown. The amount of orange coverage can range from being completely absent to covering almost the entire body.
The orange coloration has variable expression and is sensitive to environmental conditions and stress. It usually can be seen in very young fry if it is going to express, and will deepen as the angelfish matures. No one has yet definitively identified which environmental factors play the most significant role in achieving good expression of orange.
Adult koi on occasion may completely lose their orange. This is generally attributed to stress, but it may be difficult to pinpoint what causes the stress, or to explain why some kois will lose their orange and others will not under stress. Once lost, no one has reported seeing the orange color return.
Some people do not refer to a gold marble blushing angelfish as a koi unless it at minimum has an orange crown. Some people will call it a koi regardless of the presence or absence of orange coloration, basing the name on the genotype more rather than the on the presence of orange coloration. (For the sake of simplicity, the terminology “gold marble blushing” and “koi” are used interchangeably on this page.)
When the phenotype first became popular, breeders considered a good koi to be one with a full orange crown. Through selective breeding, top breeders have developed lines that exhibit ever increasing percentages of orange coverage on the body, with some koi angelfish having almost 100 percent coverage.
The koi angelfish differs in appearance from a non-blushing gold marble in that the non-marbled areas of the body are very white instead of the off-white to pale gold of a non-blushing gold marble. As a fry and juvenile, the gill covers of a koi are translucent, resulting a circular pink color in the gill area, as lack of pigment allows the color of freshly-oxygenated blood in the gill area to show through. As the fish matures the gill covers typically become opaque, and the blushing will no longer be seen. The dorsal and anal fins will have no horizontal striations, and the tail will be smooth with no lacy patterning. In addition, the adult koi often develops silvery-gold iridescent random patches on the body, which result from deposition of guanine. These iridescent patches will not be seen in non-blushing angelfish.
- Leopard :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Zebra (Z)
- Leopard Black andLeopard Black Ghost:
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Zebra (Z), Stripeless (S) (in ghosts), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
-Leopard Lace :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Zebra (Z), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
-Marble Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Marble (M), Stripeless (S)
- Marble Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Marble (M), Stripeless (S)
-Silver Ghost Gold Marble :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold Marble (Gm), Stripeless (S)
-Silver Ghost Pearlscale :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Stripeless (S), Pearlscale (p)
-- No Photo --
- Silver Marble Ghost :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Marble (M), Stripeless (S)
-- No Photo --
- Smokey Black :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Smokey (Sm)
- Smokey Black Blushing (Velvet) :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
--No Photo --
- Smokey Black Ghost :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
- Smokey Blue Koi :
(Smokey Gold Marble Blushing)
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold Marble (Gm), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
- Smokey Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Stripeless (S)
Smokey Ghost :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Stripeless (S)
- Smokey Gold Marble :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold Marble (Gm), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Smokey Lace :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Smokey (Sm)
- Smokey Leopard :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Zebra (Z)
- Smokey Leopard Black:
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Zebra (Z), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Smokey Leopard Black Ghost:
Smokey leopard black ghost is a smokey leopard black with the addition of one stripeless allele, and has one of the following genotypes.
-- No Photo --
- Smokey Leopard Lace:
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Zebra (Z), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Smokey Pearlscale :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Smokey (Sm), Pearlscale (p)
- Smokey Marble :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Marble (M), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
-Smokey Turquoise Blushing :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Stripeless (S), Smokey (Sm)
-- No Photo --
- Streaked Black :
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Streaked (St)
- Sunset (Gold Blushing) :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Gold (g), Stripeless (S)
- Zebra Halfblack :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Zebra (Z), Halfblack (h)
- Zebra Lace and Zebra Black :
Multiple Locus Phenotype
Non-wild alleles that interact to form this phenotype:
Dark (D), Zebra (Z)
A- Zebra Lace :
B- ZEBRA BLACK :
Keeping and Breeding Fresh Water Angelfish! :
With Courtesy to : http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=4123
Beautiful young angelfish don’t stay that petite size for long. John Rundle warns of the problems faced by many fishkeepers when these popular tropical fish reach adulthood.
I wish I had a pound for every time I’ve seen two large angelfish in a dealer’s tank and been told they’ve been brought in by a despairing customer!
Either these fish have become too large for a community tank set-up, or they are a pair, keep laying eggs and are attacking other smaller inmates.
These are common problems involving what must be one of the most majestic freshwater tropical fish in the hobby, and I often hear from readers with angels in community tanks who are having these problems when hoping to breed them in this scenario.
I don’t intend to look at genetics and methods on how to establish pure bred lines — and I use the word ‘pure’ with reservation. The odds will be that the pair in the community tank is a mixed pair: one could be a normal silver and the other pure black, or one gold and the other marbled.
These mixed crossings don’t prevent the production of healthy fish. Normally, any resulting youngsters will be of mixed colours. So here are some solutions to the problems associated with pairs of angels in a community tank.
The angelfish is a member of the cichlid family and the genus Pterophyllum. In this the most popular species is P. scalare. From the original coloured fish, with its silver body and dark transverse bands, numerous colour and fin shape varieties have been developed. The other species, such as Pterophyllum altum and P. leopoldi, when seen in shops, are usually wild fish and quite expensive compared to P. scalare.
Size of tank?
With its large disc-like body and extensive dorsal and anal fins, the angelfish can be more than 15cm/6” tall. So a fish bought when 5cm/2”, which is the size they are generally found in shops, soon grows and becomes that elegant adult.
These fish that started at 5cm in that 30cm/12” deep fish tank are then suddenly cramped for space. They are at their best in tanks at least 38cm/15” deep.
Some time ago my living room tank, measuring 127cm/50” x 46cm/18” x 30cm/12”, contained just eight adults and a few Corydoras catfish. It was one of the best set-ups I had kept in this tank and I regretted changing it.
The tank had tall plants to the rear, such as sword plants (Echinodorus spp. and Aponogeton bolvinianus) and Java fern (Microsorium pteropus). In front were species of lower growing Cryptocoryne. The angels would love to glide through the tall, background plants into a clear space at the front.
The temperature was set to 27ºC/80ºF and an internal power filter supplied the filtration. The water flow of the filter was set to low, because angels do not like to swim in fast conditions.
This generous size of tank and type of set-up would help alleviate the problem of having to move the angelfish on later.
Angelfish also prefer water that’s slightly acidic, 6.6 to 6.8 pH, and quite soft, although the many colour types we see will breed in surprisingly varying conditions. Water that’s hard and alkaline must be avoided though.
Feeding :
The parents will benefit from a varied diet when in breeding form. Try a selection of quality dry foods, along with frozen bloodworm, and add a source of live food. I used live whiteworm fed once a week to keep them in the best possible condition.
The fry will take brineshrimp nauplii as a first food and will need it for up to three weeks. After this they will readiy accept any finely crushed flake foods provided as a healthy supplement.
Problems arising from angelfish breeding in general planted tanks can be tackled in two ways. Which ever one you choose, at least one extra tank will be required — because once a pair of angelfish has laid eggs in a tank with other fish, the problems can really start!
They include the possibility of the pair attacking the other inmates. If these are smaller fish they can be killed. Other tank residents could also eat the eggs and catfish may eat them at night.
Even if the parents can protect the eggs until they hatch, other inmates can pick off the tiny free-swimming fry. The parents then get continually frustrated trying to protect their eggs or fry and eat them.
In this community scenario the fishkeeper has two choices. If the pair decide to deposit their eggs on something that can be moved, such as a plant leaf or on a vertical side of a slate or stone, then my ‘method one’ has to be used.
If the pair decide at each spawning to deposit eggs on an area or immovable object, such as the sides of tank or even the heater/thermostat cable, then the keeper should use ‘method two’.
To help the pair decide where to spawn, offer them a choice of portable breeding sites, such as a piece of slate or flat stone set near vertical. Also offer plastic sword plants that have large leaves, or the leaves of real plants.
- Method one:
Once angelfish start a breeding cycle they can spawn regularly, creating the time needed to prepare the set-up.
Method one is based on removing the eggs and the portable breeding site, be it the leaf (real or plastic), slate or stone, to a separate tank.
The tank, which should be no less than 60 x 30 x 30cm/24 x 12 x 12”, is based on the bare tank set-up with no gravel substrate and contains only a heater/thermostat set to 27-28ºC/80-82ºF. A sponge-type filter should be fitted.
A clear glass container large enough to hold the eggs and portable egg site is now needed.
I use medium-sized sweet jars or small home-made tanks.
Now we’re ready for the angelfish to spawn again!
Once this has happened and spawning is complete, take some tank water and pour it into the jar or small tank. Now carefully take the eggs attached to whatever the portable breeding site was and, with the jar/tank held just under the water level, place the leaf, slate or stone into it.
Try to prevent the eggs leaving the water during this operation. If they are on a real plant leaf just remove that single leaf.
At this stage some breeders place methylene blue into the container to help prevent egg fungus. I have never found this necessary as if the eggs are fertile they will hatch without problems.
The container with eggs is now placed in the bare tank set-up — and make sure no tank water enters the container at this stage. Into the container place an open-ended air line that allows water movement to pass over the eggs. It must be set just right, for if too fierce it will blow any hatching larvae off the leaf or slate too soon. This movement replaces the parents’ fanning action.
Small water changes must be made regularly in the container and if any of the eggs are showing signs of fungus they can be carefully removed.
At the temperature suggested the eggs will hatch within 48 hours and for about six to seven days will be a wriggling mass of tiny heads and tails sticking to the leaf or slate. Some will drop off and fall to the bottom, but this will not normally stop their development.
During this time they are feeding off their yolk sac, so no other form of feeding is necessary.
On about the seventh day they should become free swimming, probably in the middle and upper areas of the container.
Now the moment of truth. Carefully take the container and slowly tilt it to allow all the fry to swim into the larger growing-on tank. Allow them to settle and feed them newly hatched brineshrimp, which they will eat in copious amounts. Broods could be quite large – up to 400 – but this will differ according to the size and age of the parents.
-Method two :
Angelfish will always tend to be independent and sometimes lay their eggs in places that won’t allow removal. These could be the glass sides of the tank, filter body or even heater/thermostat cable.
If this continually happens in our community tank scenario, use method two.
This bare tank set-up has the same basic heating and filtration units, with the addition of a choice of breeding sites for the pair to deposit their eggs. These could be avoided and they will still choose to use the sides of the tank.
The pair are removed and placed in their new home — and note the need for adequate depth of tank. Don’t use a 30cm/12” one for an adult pair, but one that’s 38cm/15” deep is ideal.
When the pair spawn for the first time in this set -up try to give them peace and quiet. Avoid sudden movements that will alarm and make them eat their eggs.
Given this type of set-up you may be lucky in that the parents tend the eggs and, when the brood is free swimming, will look after them until large enough to fend for themselves. A pair of angelfish looking after a large brood is one of the hobby’s most stunning sights.
You may have a pair that keeps eating the eggs or fry. If so, then if the eggs are laid on a leaf or slate remove it and revert to the container used in method one.
The eggs can then be hatched as in that method.
-Go for quality :
Growing on will depend on how many fish you have tank space to spare. Do not try and raise a large brood of fish in a 30cm/24” tank.
A few good fish – say 50 – are far better than 200 runts.
Want to breed your angelfish? More help's at hand
This is by no means a detailed article, more an offering of ideas on how to save some young from that lone pair of angelfish in the community tank. It also hopefully makes you aware of problems that can arise when buying two fish the size of 50p pieces but that will soon attain spans of 15cm/6”.
If you want to breed angels as a serious project and want to know more about them, write to me via the letters pages at PFK.
Angelfish - how times have changed: Check out John Rundle's article in which he travels over 80 years back in time to look at how early angels fared.
Why not take out a subscription to Practical Fishkeeping magazine?
Published: John Rundle Sunday 10 July 2011, 11:39 pm
Hybrid Black Ghost Angelfish Pair
Platinum Blue Marble Angelfish
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 1 of 7 (Intro)
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 2 of 7 (Setting up your system)
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 3 of 7 (Selecting the right fish to breed)
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 4 of 7 (The moment of truth)
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 5 of 7 (Raising the fry)
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 6 of 7 (Getting rid of the fry)
HOW TO BREED FRESHWATER ANGELFISH PART 7 of 7 (THE WRAP UP)